InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 3

Hmmmm. Didn't even bother to take a look around when I had my unit open. That's interesting!!!

Kind of proves my theory that these units are still being produced by the Chinese company regardless of what vizio says. Still cannot get why they would not fix the cap - guess it costs more for them and they hope the same people who fail to send in back rebates will also not bother with an RMA.

Maybe you got a Mark II, whatever the hell that is.

Then again, the 02 could be the year and the 05/06 are the month and day. International standard ISO 8601 mandates a year-month-day format where the first two digits of the year are frequently omitted.

Hey DeerHunter I have a 57" Hitachi too. (57swx20b)
That's my living room TV. It use to get the full work out for movies, ect. but now just for normal TV watching. Haven't watched a DVD on that one since I got the theater room built and put the 4805 up. I have the Denon 3800 DVD player hooked to the Hitachi and I must say I like the 4805-D1 combo better.
Just got done watching the Battle of the Bulge. They did a nice job doing that DVD. It even had an intermission. I forgot they use to have intermissions when I went to the theater years ago.
Ah how time flies

Now that's funny!!!

I know what you mean buddy! 95% of viewing on my Hitachi is SDTV in the family room. Once in a blue moon a dvd on it, when I just don't feel like firing up the 4805. Not to mention I don't have heat in the basement theater...yet. It's on the honey-dew list. But I would like another D1 just for the Hitachi!!!

A was so curious about the picture that was just posted, I went and cracked my D1 open, same thing. The chassis is stamped in red with 30 JULY 2003, but the board under the FUSS loader says Ver:1.4 02/05/06.

That tells me that these things are still being produced in China "what isn't these days" by the OEM manufacturer, but they are using a combination of old or should I say remaining & new parts.

Whether it be used or new "I LOVE MY D1." And like C. HESTON said..."From my cold dead hands!"

Friday night's "KING KONG" on the D1 & 4805. Can't wait!

See my modified post above, I think that date is in ISO 8601 format and the year is actually 2002.

Well, that would make sense. No matter. It works, and I'm keeping it!

DeerHunter;
I got this little baby at Walmart for 50 bucks.
http://www.laskoproducts.com/heaters/model_5395.html
It will blow you out of the room within 10min. It's very quiet has auto temp control and low speed. You can't even hear this thing running on low, and it oscillates to boot

Will this capacitor work for the D1 mod? -->
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...rolytic%201000

Never mind! I don't think it would.

Yes it will.

It is an "axial" capacitor, meaning the leads exit from either end of the unit whereas the capacitor in the D1 is a "radial" design, meaning both leads exit from the same end of the capacitor.

It is simply different physical packaging. The cap you mentioned is electrically identical.

It could be used (in a pinch) by bending the second lead along the body of the capacitor so that both leads are available at one end. Just make sure that you protect the longer, bentover lead with a bit of spaghetti insulation, or even some heat-shrink tubing.

As ever, watch out for the polarity!!

Thanks cavu, So, since this a 50V one, this would be better than the 35V one? My ratshack has them both.

If the 35v is a radial package, take it. If they're both axial, spin a bottle or just go with the 35v and save $0.10.

I first suggested the 1000uf 50v only because it was the right package and it was easily available through RS (actually now called 'The Source' in Canada but everyone still calls them RS). It seems the RS in the USA only have the axial version, but have the 1000uf 35v radial.

I use 35v sub-miniature Nichicon but they're more expensive units and aren't available at RS.

Got a pair of oil filled radiator type down there already! Some day I'll run some baseboard heat in from the extra zone I have available at the furnace. I hate cuttin and sweating pipe though!

I have a oil filled multi ribbed unit, a ceramic oscillating blower device and 1600 W coiled passive radiating model.



The oil filled is my wifes fav but my girlfriend really likes the oscillating blower best.



Opps, got off topic again...maybe we should start another thread?

Cavu (or anyone else),

Finished up the cap swap and now I have no video/audio. The cap had leaked pretty badly to the board and onto the adjoining 25V cap (whatever that does). I put the whole thing back together and hooked it up via composite just for a quickie test. It loads fine, reads the DVD, and appears to play it fine since the numbers on the front display correllate to button presses. I even swapped out the loader and still same thing. What I'm getting after about 5 seconds after powering on is a 1/2 second video "flash" that is a blue screen and has the DVD logo in the lower right hand part of the screen with some other writing, and then nothing. Audio wasn't coming through the outs either. This was a used unit, so is it possible that I'm missing something in the settings or that it's configured for DVI out only, or...ideas, anyone? Many, many thanks in advance!

That's the same unit as the famed Zenith 381, running 1080i over component. I have one of those, it is very nice, I would say my OPPO is better with th 4805 over DVI, and my D1 is better than my OPPO pixel mapped to the 4805.

Gary Keohi is a very well known and respected guy in the industry, he's one of the authors of Avia Guide to Home Theater DVD, knows what he's talking about. Like you said, he wasn't using the D1 pixel mapped to a fixed pixel display, I don't think. That review is pretty old, but also shows you that the D1 over 720p or 1080i was also considered *really* good in its day.

Wes

I think you region may be off, to fix it, take all disk out of the loader, on your remote press right,down, left, up ,enter, and 1, then Zero or 1 and enter(I think this is right but I'm not positive, after you push the first enter you may just put in 1 or 0 and hit enter then cycle), then cycle through your TV mode button on the remote < you might try that first. I somehow got my region off and couldn't get it to display anything, I did the above and cycled through and the NTSC image came up.

Yes there is something psychologically disturbing about mailing off a working D1. I won't be doing such a flawed action. I know how much a GREAT DVD player can effect the image, on my X1 I went from a Sony which wasn't bad to a RP30 and it was night and day. The SP4805 blows the X1 out of the water and the Bravo D1 does the same to the panny. I can't wait to get it set up and see the vibrancy of the image. Thursday can't get here soon enough. I got my A Simple Plan DVD ready to go along with Stir of Ehcos(

Be sure to use the D1's native 852x480 60hz setting for video based material!

Stir of Echos...isn't that the one with Kevin Bacon-Boy? I haven't seen it yet. Thanks for reminding me. Will have to add it to my Blockbuster list.

Thanks for reminding me as I'm about to get and OTA HDTV Set Top Box. I hope I don't have to re-enter the custom info every time I switch back and forth. BTW the makers of the D1 also make a OTA Set Top Box that seems to get great reviews everywhere, if it has the same chip as the D1 or just the fact of V,INC has shown they know what it takes to make a great image make the Humax HFA100 HDTV Tuner a no brainer for me. On ebay they are reasonable. While there are other OTA HDTV Tuners no one has had anything but Very High Praise for the Humax HF100, Makes since to me as they probably did another KILLER JOB on the DISPLAY CHIP inside of it even if the build quality is average.

http://www.vinc.com/site/products/product_hfa100.html

Stir of Echo's is AWESOME and way under rated, it also is full of beautiful hues and colors and one of the best looking DVD's I've seen.

Holy crap, it worked, just as you said! rrhomes, you're now my newest hero! By the way, I was the bastard that got that $25 D1 on eBay, hoping the cap switch would fix it, and now I have a fully functional, great condition, cap fixed D1 for $27 total cost. (Don't hate me 'cause I'm cheap, since I'm not beautiful ) Thank you so very much for your help and another shout out to Cavu for all he's done for all of us!

hahaha about the D1, glad you got it working. what a steal, nice job. Just think there are D1's out there that have failed and are either geting ready to be tossed in the trash or are just siting there with some poor owner hopeing someday it will fire up agian. It's got to be less than .001% that knows about the fix.

wow, thats a goddam good deal! Glad you got it fixed. Go watch a DVD and let us know what you think

dude, you rock!

I paid $74 for mine, and thought I got a good deal!

Congrats, let us know how you like the image.

Wes

The image shift to the left over component was why I stopped using the 318 and bought an OPPO. The 4805 (with the firmware at the time) wouldn't remember the offset setting if I changed sources and then went back to dvd, so I'd have to set it up each time, it was a pain. The OPPO was solid every time, so it was the winner. I'm going to do the cap swap in my D1 and see if it's as dependable as my OPPO. It sure looks good, though. . .

Thankfully the custom timings are remembered, to toggle from one of the "house" resolutions back to your previously determined custom simply go to setup -> video settings -> DVI out -> right toggle once -> key in 9713 -> (You'll see the previous custom settings haven't changed) press enter and exit setup.

I've had the player about 7 hours now and must say mapped at 48Hz is stunning on most DVD's I've tried so far. Without question when mapped at 48Hz provides a clearer with greater depth with a less strain on the eyes image than my S97. I've performed the 50 Volt cap swap but even so the drive unit is far more finicky and tempermental than the Panasonic.

Getting late, must get some sleep.

Ok - time to report.

My D1 was waiting for me when I got home. First off, newegg shipped it inside a bigger box with air bladders, but all the bladders were on the top - nothing underneath the D1 box. So it could have been better protected.

I opened the D1 box (which had been retaped) and it was pretty obvious that it had been opened before. The tape on the manual bag wasn't in its original spot, and ditto for the tape on the D1's bag. Oh well. The clear plastic film was still on the display but was peeling off from one end. The D1 itself looked in brand new shape and the remote was unopened.

I plugged it in as-is to make sure it fired up. It did. I connected it to my 36" tube via composite just to test picture and sound. The first disc I grabbed was Sahara. The picture skipped and stuttered and wouldn't even make it to the menu. Uh oh. Then I put in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and it worked perfectly. I should have tried Sahara one more time (maybe it just needed to warm up?) but I wanted to do the cap swap.

I took off the cover: Fuss loader and original cap, as expected. Boy there sure isn't much inside the unit, is there? PS board, logic board, and loader. Lots of empty space in there - they could have made this thing half the size if they wanted to.

I disconnected the 2 AC connectors and removed the 4 screws, flipping the PS board upside down onto the loader as Cavu recommended. Got the braid and soldering iron and went to work. It took longer for the braid to heat up and absorb the solder than I expected it to, but finally it was clean. I removed the original cap and inserted the replacement (checking polarity), and soldered the new cap in place (not the neatest soldering job, but hey I'm a rookie). Clipped the ends and reassembled.

First I put Sahara back in and had zero problems this time. Turned off Macrovision and checked out the DVI secret menu but didn't activate DVI because I'm waiting to order my cable (out of stock at Monoprice). BTW, does the fact that I can get to these menus mean I have the firmware I need? If not, how can I tell the firmware version?

So far so good - now I just need that cable.

How do I do this and do I need to?


Well a few more problems to report: I put in 3 different DVD's and 2 skipped here and there, one was DVE wich is a weird disk to begin with and Solaris which I recall skipping some on my pc, - until I learned that the D1 is not good at just swapping out disc, you need to restart the loader ie.. I never had a skip if I closed and opened the loader as opposed to just taking a playing disc out and putting a new one in. So if I clear the loader so to speak then it seems to do fine. I'll know more tomorrow when I play with if for a few hours. Hmmm.....


On the positive side, I can tell the image is incredible even though I only have it hooked up via S-Video, I have a keen eye for artifacts and compression blocks and it was extremely clean/clear I can only imagine DVI to DLP. I'll see how it does I have 2 weeks to swap it out, so I'm still feeling good. If a better loader will stop it's reading issues then I'm all for a mod. I'm sure I'll get a good D1 this one still may be it, I need to play with it more. But if it skips more than it should, I'll find another D1 as that is all I'm interested in. The skip's may have been my DVD's but they look clean or semi clean with a few scratchs. Audio seems very good.

A-HA!!!! You guys finally went too far. You were trying to push the inside joke envelope and you pushed it just a tad too much. It's now perfectly clear to me what's going on. This D1 thing is all an elaborate ruse coordinated via PM, probably with kickbacks from Bravo involved. I'm a little miffed you guys didn't see fit to include me however.

First the story about how a $2.00 capacitor swap turns a unit widely regarded as a reliability POS into a rock solid Krell. Brilliant. Next, the testimonials, each one better than the last. Good thinking there - the power of group persuasion, get 'em expecting it'll be better, and they'll think it's better. Must be a PhD psychiatrist amongst you conspirators. Clever.

How far were you going to take it? The D1 on the 4805 bests HD-DVD on my IN76? Composite on the D1 looks better than Blu-Ray on my Ruby? We'll never know, 'cause everyone is on to you guys now.



Actually I'm just pissed all this stuff didn't come out a year ago. If I wasn't planning on getting rid of my 4805 soon I'd get a D1 and see what all this hub-bub is about.