This thread from day one was about a one can paint solution that anyone in the world could go into any paint store or hardware that has a measured mixing machine and ask for a gallon of paint be made the brand of paint was not as important as the outcome of the mix. We all know you can go to any paint store and find a paint color and ask the mix person I like this color but can you make it out of this different paint company base and they say sure no problem. So what they really need is a code to put into the machine and a base to start with in the correct luster.
I posted the below to another thread and it was somewhat off topic so what I would like to do is bring that discussion over to this thread where it's more appropriate. If anything of substance becomes of it I will then update the opening post to clearly explain what we come up with.
So below is a cut and paste from another thread and the direction I would like to take the efforts of this thread.
---------------------- --------------------------- ------------------- --------------------
I have advocated for a long time forget the silly commercial paint names and forget looking for a magic color chip at your favorite paint store to be a neutral gray. All these paints are formulated to please the eye and in order to do that some subtle color is required. No one paints a room flat black normally and no one wants to paint one a devoid of color neutral gray. I advocated lamp black in white base as did Bombadilhttp://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...threadid=344875http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...threadid=418361
His first thread was LB and white and he devised a simple numbering system I always liked to identify the level of gray. He then identified that LB and white was not a true neutral and somehow felt raw umber was the magic bullet. I never quite bought into the raw umber but had no way to disprove its claims also.
Now we are learning yellow oxide may be a better pick. That's been a long time in coming and as Tiddler said it's a fall out of the experimentation over in the RGB thread. I don't have access to color testing equipment, but I would hope and ask of the members that do to see if a closer neutral gray can be made of paint store pigments white base, LB, and yellow oxide. The white base being a constant, then some constant proportion of the other two equated to a RGB outcome.
The additional item of improvement I chose to include in my simple solution thread was the addition of poly alone to the paint as a sheen adjuster. That's what I was really adding or trying to add beyond the Bombadil threads. That and a detail of the methodology one could follow to achieve a simple screen paint in one can that is easy to apply and would be adjustable to many projectors and screen sizes with different ambient levels of room light.
Like all things there are limitations to this and it's really for the guy that's able to be around the unity gain maybe a little more or a fair amount less.
One question I have had in the back of my mind and it deals with how pure a RGB number has to be to be considered good. I'm pretty sure a RGB of 180 180 181 would be good but really how bad is a 180 180 185 say?
Does anyone have the ability to look at the average projectors ability to correct for tiny changes in a neutral gray RGB and say we are grasping at straws when we worry about a change of X amount. I noticed the commercial screens tested all are far form neutral based on the exacting standards we seem to be placing on ourselves.
When raw umber was the corrective agent of choice I couldn't detect any difference with it in the mix or replaced with LB. Now that it may become yellow oxide I guess I'll have to try it and see.