Bud an interesting thing I noticed with the 'V' curve is that as the color gets darker the green deficiency decreases(starts moving back toward neutral). The red and blue values pretty much fluctuate the same, but never exceeding a 5 point push or deficiency. It appears they are tweaking the screen to be warmer or cooler temperature but basically keeping it close to a neutral midpoint. Pushes/deficiencies with red and blue beyond a temperature setting for the screen to me is for:
1 To aid with some minor incandescent lighting and
2 A slight blue push beyond temperature control could be to aid in brighter perceived whites.
Green is the big variable and like I said it goes from a 9 point deficiency to a 5 point deficiency as colors get darker and depending on the manufacturer. This kinda supports what I was thinking/saying that the color variance of the screen isn't as critical with lighter colors, but going darker needs to be more balanced, or at least closer to that neutral midpoint level.
Here is what Gary said when I was originally questioning the 'V' curve and the desire for neutral colors--
I think the commercial screen green deficiency is due to several factors:
1. Too much green makes skin tones look bad; too little is not very noticable.
2. Titanium dioxide/lampblack/raw umber are inexpensive, nontoxic pigments.
3. Effective green pigments are expensive and toxic (cadmium, etc.)
4. A truly neutral screen is ugly when the lights are on.
5. True neutral is only a small advantage - meaningful to us, but probably not to them.
6. A true neutral color would require extremely close manufacturing tolerances.
7. We are the only ones who are crazy enough to care.
Mere speculation on my part, but I believe these factors are enough to prevent the big guys from producing a neutral screen. It is most certainly possible to create one - it's just not that advantageous for the big companies.
So neutrals aren't a bad thing, just harder to achieve and getting to that 98-99% performance which is typically only 1-2% beyond most really good commercial and DIY applications. If I understand Gary right it's more to do with cheap and easy to get the best performance/profit ratio.
Now based on that, neutrals will work, and we know the 'V' curve will work very well too... so in my opinion I would use the Munsell levels as the neutral midpoints and work the V from there... slightly larger green deficiency with an N9 shade and decrease the green deficiency as the shades go darker.
I do have some ideas and created some color swatches based on some 'V' curves I worked out, but I want to do further testing and research on that before getting into them on any threads in here.
It sounds like Tiddler has already found some excellent information for this thread to sink its teeth into.