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Toshiba 50HM66, 56HM66 Discussion - Page 42

post #1231 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Another sign of a failing ballast is flickering.

no flickering at all. In fact once I finally get the bulb to come on I will leave the tv on all day with no issues whatsoever.
post #1232 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchjn View Post

this is the lamp i purchased

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Tos...-lamp-bulb.htm


I got just the bulb and used the old housing. I never saw a toshiba on the bulb but not sure if that means anything.


Also is the ballast easy to get at to look at or test?

Did the lamp come with the connector already attached? The description says it is a Tosh lite so it likely is. You did get the Y67 which is a modified version, that's the good news.

The ballast is attached to the light engine. Top right corner, next to the lamp tunnel. PM me your email addy and I will forward you the service manual.
post #1233 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Did the lamp come with the connector already attached? The description says it is a Tosh lite so it likely is. You did get the Y67 which is a modified version, that's the good news.

The ballast is attached to the light engine. Top right corner, next to the lamp tunnel. PM me your email addy and I will forward you the service manual.

ya the connector was already attached. The wires on the new bulb were a noticeably smaller gauge though. I was contimplating unscrew the wires and connector from the old bulb and putting it on the new one. The only thing is on the new one, one of the wires is soldered on.

Thanks Splicer for the manual in advance
post #1234 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

You can check the ballast. Look at the ballast. If there are any bulging capacitors, your ballast is probably failing. Test the output of your ballast. You'll need a voltage meter and the spec of your ballast (I don't know how many volts the ballast is supposed to output since I don't own this set, but someone should be able to answer that for you.)

Another sign of a failing ballast is flickering.

Im going open up the tv and look at the ballast when I have time in the next day or two. Im wondering if the capacitors are bulging would those be the culprit. And if so would it be possible to just buy some new capacitors and resolder them on to fix it?

I had a friend with an LCD tv that wasnt turning on. He read up on it and found that it was 3 identical capacitors that were commonly going bad in the tv and it was cheaper to buy the capacitors and replace them for under $10. Now Im not entirely sure what part of the tv it was that had gone bad but Im wondering if this is something I could try here.
post #1235 of 1295
Yes you can. Just use the SM I sent you.
post #1236 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post
Sounds like a bad ballast to me. Of course, the lamp itself could be bad. I had a brand new lamp go bad (blow?) in 3 weeks after it was installed. Took about 3 months from start to finish to get it replaced, which they did do as they admitted it was indeed a bad lamp.

The TV will try about 8 times to light the lamp. This is normal IF the lamp doesn't light the first time. You really should download the service manual and follow the flow chart(s) to help better diagnose the issue.

Does the lamp you have , have the yellow 'made by Toshiba' sticker on it? If not then it is not a Toshiba lamp. I went to discount merchant site and am not sure which you bought. The $140 one is a Toshiba lamp (I THINK), the Y66. That lamp was a serious issue for Toshiba and it was redesigned to the Y67 which is the lamp you want.
Having same issue. New lamp installed and tv struggles to get picture. My question is assuming it is the ballast, is the ballast part of the Light Engine? My TV actually is part of the recall for that defective part.

Separate Q: My picture does not have the shadow indicating a defective light engine, so how would you recommend me approaching Toashiba for a replacement? Thanks!
post #1237 of 1295
The ballast is seperate from the light engine, but is mounted ON the light engine.

The 'shadow' indicates a bad LIGHT TUNNEL ONLY. In order to have Toshiba replace/rebuild it, you will have to call them, they send out a tech to verify a shadow (which you don't have) and then they do their thing. If you don't have a shadow, I wouldn't sweat it myself.

Stuggling to light and not lighting are 2 different things. While the ballast could certainly be bad, it could be as simple as a lamp itself going bad. In my opinion a DLP owner should ALWAYS have a NEW, spare lamp, just in case. If you have one, you should try a swap and see if that doesn't fix things first. If it doesn't, turn your attention to the ballast. Even if you need to buy another lamp AND locate a replacement ballast, it is still a helluva lot cheaper than getting another TV. And in my opinion, these sets are just fabulous and worth keeping going. SHould you need your ballast replaced/repaired, I suggest you go here:
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/75002433-P6058.aspx

Spare lamps I have tried a few places but like Laptops for Less as the best quality/price ratio.
post #1238 of 1295
Thanks! Appreciate the quick and thoughtful response.
post #1239 of 1295
Quote:
You can check the ballast. Look at the ballast. If there are any bulging capacitors, your ballast is probably failing. Test the output of your ballast. You'll need a voltage meter and the spec of your ballast (I don't know how many volts the ballast is supposed to output since I don't own this set, but someone should be able to answer that for you.)

You can NOT test the output of the ballast!!!!!!! Do not try to connect a meter to the output of this or any ballast. From what I understand about them, they produce somewhere in the neighborhood of 10,000 volts.

You test the INPUT,,, usually around 250 to 350 vdc. This is the drive voltage coming directly from the main power supply. You will also have a "ballast on" pulse of about 5vdc. This turns the ballast on.

The rest of the above quote is spot on,, look for bulging caps.

Good luck and be careful,

Jim
post #1240 of 1295
Is there any way to get the hd channels on this tv without a cable box. My cable company has them in the 600 to 700 channel range. the tv will not find these stations by itself. I do not want to have to pay the monthly fee for another cable box. Thanks
post #1241 of 1295
Unless you get a cable card, no. The analog cable tuner is only like 125-130 channels...something like that. And as an FYI this goes for ALL TV's, not just the xxHM66 models.
post #1242 of 1295
Splicer, are you still satisfied with your lamp from laptopsforless.com?
I currently have a lamp from advance lamps which after a year is still working but getting very dark, no longer bright.
Let me know if your still around, and thanks in advance!
post #1243 of 1295
Jim, yes, I am still pleased with it. No worries (at least for me) with brightness, flicker, anything...
post #1244 of 1295
Thanks Splicer, I was reading their reviews and the lamp for around 88 dollars had no reviews, however the same lamp that they were selling for 135 dollard had terrible reviews. Wanted to see how yours was doing.
Thanks again.
post #1245 of 1295
Hey Guys, i am experiencing problems with my 50HM66 DLP. I`d like to know if someone has had similar problems or maybe an idea what could be broken.

The TV works fine, turns on without any problems and doesnt have any issues with the light tunnel. But after 3-4h of watching TV, the image starts flickering / stuttering for a few seconds and the TV will turn off with an orange light blinking. If i wait a couple of minutes, the TV works again.
In the summer, at higher temperatures, the flickering starts earlier and watching TV starts to get impossible. The Lamp has been replaced after 4 Years, but the problem was there before and after the replacement.

I would be really happy, if anyone could help.
Thanks
post #1246 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by razzoe View Post

Hey Guys, i am experiencing problems with my 50HM66 DLP. I`d like to know if someone has had similar problems or maybe an idea what could be broken.

The TV works fine, turns on without any problems and doesnt have any issues with the light tunnel. But after 3-4h of watching TV, the image starts flickering / stuttering for a few seconds and the TV will turn off with an orange light blinking. If i wait a couple of minutes, the TV works again.
In the summer, at higher temperatures, the flickering starts earlier and watching TV starts to get impossible. The Lamp has been replaced after 4 Years, but the problem was there before and after the replacement.

I would be really happy, if anyone could help.
Thanks

If you want a copy of the service manual, just PM ne your email addy.
post #1247 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by razzoe View Post

Hey Guys, i am experiencing problems with my 50HM66 DLP. I`d like to know if someone has had similar problems or maybe an idea what could be broken.

The TV works fine, turns on without any problems and doesnt have any issues with the light tunnel. But after 3-4h of watching TV, the image starts flickering / stuttering for a few seconds and the TV will turn off with an orange light blinking. If i wait a couple of minutes, the TV works again.
In the summer, at higher temperatures, the flickering starts earlier and watching TV starts to get impossible. The Lamp has been replaced after 4 Years, but the problem was there before and after the replacement.

I would be really happy, if anyone could help.
Thanks

Sounds like a failing ballast.
post #1248 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Sounds like a failing ballast.

Yup. That's what I said in the email I sent the service manual with.
post #1249 of 1295
I just wanted to give an update from my post on january 26th of this year. i had to buy my first replacement bulb and got it from lap tops for less for $99. it just died this weekend so bulb only lasted 9 months. of course it only comes with a 6 month warranty and only thing they would offer me is 10% off which is useless to me it if is only going to last another 9 months.

picture wwas getting dim and bright probably for about the last 2 months and then this weekend i turned it on and the picture was extremly dim. tv automatically restart and was extremly dim again. tv reset a few more times before there was no picture at all and then got the message that the bulb was not working. pulled it out and it did not blow, just gave out.

i guess its possible i was just unlucky but i feel like was the first person to post that i was ordering from lap tops for less since no one before had mentioned buying from them. i will probably look elsewhere now and may not just buy the cheapest one this time. does anyone have any good suggestions?
post #1250 of 1295
Well, I like laptops for less bulbs so far. Of course it is always a gamble when it comes to ANY light. Hell, I have GE 5 year warrantied CFL's that I have had to replace in less than a year...and a couple of times since as well! Of course postage costs more than just getting a new lamp so...

I also like advanced lamps. They stood behind their lamp when I had one go out after 3 weeks of use. It took 4 MONTHS to get the new one, but I did get it.

Too bad you didn't mention here first BEFORE you talked to them. I would have told you what to say that may (or may not) have 'helped' them see things your way. But now you are 'in the system' so the point is moot. Still have the laptops for less lamp in my 56HM66 and it works fine. Setting is on low. Fine for the sets location.

For what it's worth, the first advanced lamps lamp lasted about 9-10 months. Never did die, just got dimmer than I wanted the pic to be. I kept it as a spare emergency lamp.
post #1251 of 1295
After 4 years the original lamp in my 50hm66 gave out, so i ordered a new one from discounttvlamps on ebay and it arrived in 4 days. I installed it today and checked the hours for the original lamp and i was surprised to see that it lasted me 7200 hrs because when i bought the tv all i read was bad reviews about the bulb life but i took the risk anyway and it paid off! Hopefully this new bulb lasts a few years as well. I will report back when it goes out.
post #1252 of 1295
Been a while since I posted here. But today, sat down to watch some NFL action and 'boom' there goes the dyna errr bulb.
Have owned this TV since 2006. Replaced bulb in 1/2008 (ordered through lamps-dlp.com and covered by MAC extended warranty). Again in 8/2009 it blew. No longer covered so had to shell out $170. 9/2011 - Again ($170).

Less than three months later it blew again! I am very reluctant to continue to pump money into this TV. I have read some places say the bulb is covered for 60 days while others say 6 months! I would contact the vendor or even Toshiba but Sunday isn't the best day for support.Anyone here familiar with the latest support by Toshiba and their bulbs!

Thanks

Mark
post #1253 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveandmm View Post

I have two OTA channels with no audio. Other channels have audio just fine. If I hook my antenna into my satellite receiver, these channels have audio just fine. I don't think there is a firmware update for this TV, at least I can't find one. I would prefer to have my antenna coax plugged directly into ANT 1 and not go through my satellite receiver so if anyone knows a solution to this issue that would be great.

Thanks!

I too am having audio issues with two OTA channels. I see the same issues when using a cablecard for those channels, so I believe that is something with how the broadcaster transmits and how the 50HM66 decodes the signal. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix?

I do not have problems with my other HDTV using the same signal.
post #1254 of 1295
What stations have no audio? What channel #'s?
post #1255 of 1295
WUSA, local CBS affiliate transmitting VHF, 9-1. They also broadcast on 9-2 and I receive audio on that channel.

WJLA, local ABC affiliate transmistting VHF, 7-1.

WFDC, local Univision affliate transmitting UHF, 14-1.

Through Verizon, I have a cable card and the stations are on 509, 507 and 514 and I do not receive any audio for them.

I receive audio on my local NBC (4-1, 504), PBS (26-1, 526), CW (50-1, 503) and FOX (5-1, 505) affiliates, all UHF affilates. Thanks for any help!
post #1256 of 1295
Interesting. I sold my 56HM66 and guy told me he gets no audio on CBS only. I wonder what the issue is?
post #1257 of 1295
Picked up a mint 50hm66 on Kijiji for 180 after our LCD died(can't stand current TVs).

I've had every other kind of HDTV sold before this DLP(our first). Pretty shocked at how good the PQ is. I only see rainbows if I twitch my eyes back and forth very quickly.

No input lag with games as well.
post #1258 of 1295
Yes, the pic is really gorgeous I thought. I would still have mine but I got a deal on a Mits 73" that I just could not pass on. Less than twice what you paid.
post #1259 of 1295
Quote:
Originally Posted by jempc View Post

I have a odd problem with my 50HM66, if you leave it on for 4-5 hours, sometime the picture freezes and everything goes black on the screen... after a couple of minutes and the front yellow light blinking, the set turns back on and everything is fine.... this can happen 10-15 times during a 4 hour period, or sometime you watch it and it never happens. I contact a service center and I dropped it off for them to check it out, and it hasn't happened once since they had it....(figures just my luck)... anyway, could it be the surge protector that I had the TV plugged into? That is the only thing that I can think of that I changed.
Ohh, I also bought a new lamp just to make sure it wasn't the lamp going, and it did the same thing with the new lamp...

Thanks
J

Has anyone found the cause of this and the correct repair??
I have a 50hm66 doing exact same thing any help is appreciated
and how do you find out the lamp hours?

Thanks
post #1260 of 1295
There is a feature where you can 'freeze' the pic using the remote. Has to be associated with that feature I would think.

Lamp hours are viewable only in the service menu. If you need the service manual, PM me your email addy and I will send you a copy so you don't have to be screwed by paying 20+ bucks like I did.
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