Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 342

FWIW, a second tier tech at Samsung told me that the fact one "sticks" and the other doesn't is just a difference in the programming between the sets and wasn't intentionally made that way. He then said the SM wasn't meant to be entered by the consumer and asked for my name/phone number so I hung up. I have no idea if this is true or the "xx88" was made so the home enthusist would spend a few extra dollars. I do know that not being able to make overscan "stick" makes seeing text using a computer difficult. While I haven't seen it disscussed, if you were considering a seperate video processer then not be able to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping would remove alot of the benefit of having a seperate processor.

The HLP (2004) model year has the same two choices in the User Picture Size menu. When you are connected to either digital DVI or HDMI your choices include "Wide TV" and "Expand".

"Wide TV" is the same as the OTB HLS sets in that there has been additional electronic overscan added (~3%) to the default physical overscan (~2%) by slightly up-scaling the image. "Expand" on the other hand is true 1:1 pixel mapping with no electronic overscan added.

There is also a Picture Size option (Wide PC) that down scales the image to provide an image that doesn't completely fill the screen.

Both Wide PC and Wide TV are less sharp than Expand mode. That is very clear when using a Windows XP desktop. It's probably not nearly so important when watching most movies or TV.

Why Samsung moved some of the control to the SM is something I don't know or understand.

At one time we had sources inside Samsung that provided engineering answers to questions like this one, but some of our more "pleasant" members drove them away a couple of years ago.

Maybe "someone" who is a member here, and friends with Joe Kane could ask him why Samsung doesn't seem to value 1:1 pixel mapping even though some of us cheaters can get it in the HL_Sxx88 and HL_S5679 service menus.

It probably has something to do with mass marketing and conflicts with the engineering department at Samsung.

If home theater, TV and computer applications become more converged maybe users will have more control of under-scan and overscan along with pixel mapping.

I've been searching and found people saying they've resolved this issue but I've got black bars on the edge of my screen that I can't get rid of. I've got the xbox set to 1920 x 1080. The only option I get under Picture ->Size is Wide and 4:3. I can push the P. Size button all day and nothing happens. I never see the gadget that allows me to expand the sides. The manual says something about "Wide": Scales the picture to 92% of the TV screen. That doesn't sound too good. Can anyone help please?

Is this something one would recommend or is it mostly for the hard core fanatic? I would also assume this voids all warrantees.

If you have not already done so, within the TV user setup menu make sure the VGA port is set to the same resolution as the Xbox.

Absolutely.


Actually, I wouldn't say "ISF standards" The ISF offers a 2-day class on video 101 that anyone can take. There's next to no hands on training and what's taught is how to adjust brightness, contrast, color, tint, and sharpness. The importance of grayscale is also lightly examined as are other related topics. Their standards, if you can call it that, are pretty rudimentary actually. What Dave and I do on a Samsung display is far more involved and precise. What we aim for are SMPTE system standards which I don't believe the ISF seminar even mentions (although I can be wrong about that).

Eliab

"Fanatic" has a negative conotation. Let's say videophile instead. There's no doubt that lining the internal cabinet in a 5679 will make a noticeable improvement. However, it isn't really something that I would want to offer as it is rather time consuming and I'm just way too busy nowadays. Last year's HL-R displays also had gray cabinets that weakened the "blacks." My solution for those displays was to create custom Velux/foam-core board panels that I "snapped" inside. This made a huge difference to the overall picture quality. Here's a pic of what they looked like inside my old HL-R5088W.




A manufacturer cannot legally void a warranty unless they can prove that the adjustments/modifications performed had a direct connection to the malfunctioning of the unit. This, however, may not prevent them from bullying us into thinking that we've voided our warranties.

Eliab

You got an HL-N swapped out for an HL-S because it couldn't be repaired? Sweeeeet!

That's a great deal my friend.

Eliab

Can someone answer this question for me:

When turn my Sammy on the picture is a little bit brighter than it is suppose to be and when I go to the user menu and change the brightness 1 nouch it reverts back to the brightness that it should be set to. This does not happen all the time. When it first happened I popped in DVE to make sure that it was set correctly and low and behold that black bar tests pattern was so bright and when I tried to lower the brightness the screen got instantly darker (to the brightness it was suppose to be at). Whats the deal with this? Is this some sort of dynamic black or something?

Thanx in advance.

Two questions;
1. With a Harmony or a OneForAll remote, anyone know if there is a code to directly enter the picture mode adjust screen without pushing 5 buttons first?
2. Other than those Pronto remote codes, anyone have something for direct input access for OneForAll remotes or even Harmmony?

Management; which picture mode are you in?

DNIe (floating black, excessive edge enhancement, horizontal banding) will occasional toggle itself back on - even if the user menu says it's off! We have found this to be the case when powering the set on, switching inputs, and/or scan rates. The easiest way to tell would be if the picture lacks any type of shadow detail. For a more precise analysis, one can toggle between the Low APL and High APL PLUGE patterns on DVE (T.12, CH.2-3). If the vertical strips cannot be seen - chances are that DNIe has turned itself back on.

We suggest the following procedure to ensure that it remains off for critical viewing. This should be done after you settle down to whatever it is you will be viewing (after switching inputs, channels, etc.).

1. Go to the user-menu of your display and toggle DNIe back off whether or not it is in the on or off position.
2. Then, enter the picture menu and bring brightness up one click from where you had it and then back down to its original position.

Eliab

Is this for both the 87 and 88 models? Sounds like another firmware quirk...

the answer to both of your questions is yes, but I have no idea what the discrete code is, as I downloaded mine from the Harmony website. there are some posts on this thread and in the remote control forum that might help out.

When you are in Movie mode, you cannot toggle DNIe at all - it's grayed-out. Is it safe to assume that DNIe is truly off when you're in Movie mode, or can it be on even though it's greyed-out? If that is the case, do I just need to increase/decrease the brigtness as described above since I can't toggle DNIe?

Thanks.

I have the original Video Essentials DVD from back in 1998 or 1999... will that do or do I have to buy the newer DVE disc?

That really is the frustrating part - if these things were just plain-ole-single-use tv sets the overscan stuff might be a lot easier to swallow but effectively forcing addtional image processing on a device that is not only used as but touted as a computer monitor is baffling.

Any HLSxx88W owners know a solution to this?

Here is the setup. I have 1 digital source from my STB to TV by HDMI. The other is unscrambled cable going straight into TV via coax. The unscrambled cable has some HDTV channels available.

I can have STB as main image and see the unscrambled cable in the small PIP, however, I can't browse the channels in the PIP window unless I scroll through them all.

The only way I know how to change channels in the coax PIP window is those tiny up/down buttons on the remote. And since that isn't passing through a cable box the HD channels are really spread out (i.e. 120-5 and the next one is 128-24, etc.).

If I could swap images I could temporarily bring up the alternate source, use the keybad to jump to a channel, then swap back. But it doesn't look like I can do that.

I see that I can set the channels I want as favorites, but I don't see a way to make it the jump to the favorites in the PIP window from what I can tell.

Am I missing something?

Eliab,

What GAMMA settings in the service menu would you recommend before starting a DVE calibration? Or does it not matter?

Thanks for all your helpful advice in this thread so far.

[quote=videobruce]Two questions;
1. With a Harmony or a OneForAll remote, anyone know if there is a code to directly enter the picture mode adjust screen without pushing 5 buttons first?
2. Other than those Pronto remote codes, anyone have something for direct input access for OneForAll remotes or even Harmmony? QUOTE]

Do a search at RemoteCentral(dot)com in the file section. The files for a 6187 are there but I believe they will work for any of them.
I'd post the link but I'm too new and this forum won't allow it.


Ha, now I can! here is the Link

I have. The VGA port is set to 1920 x 1080 @ 60 hz. I've tried auto optimize and I've been able to move the image around. I can't get the image to expand to the right and left edge of the screen. Is this due to the xxx87's lack of 1 to 1 pixel mapping? Is there a work around for this model? It only does this on the PC input and VGA is the only means for the 360 to output 1080p. Do I have to fiddle with SM settings to get this fixed? I've looked them up a little but I'm scared to enter that space with the little knowlege I have on the subject.

I'm surprised there isn't a large thread devoted to this problem. That gives me hope that I'm just missing something. At the bottom of page 106 in the manual there is an Alternate Method heading showing a control I cannot get to display on my set. It says use the P. Size button to get 3 move gadgets to appear. The third gadget looks like the control I would use on a computer monitor to strech an image to the edges. Does this sound familiar to anybody?

So does Samsung ever offer firmware updates for any of their products? Is it completely unreasonable that 1 to 1 pixel mapping might ever be turned on on the XX87s? (Has anyone ever tried loading the XX88 firmware on a XX87 to see if it would turn that function on?)

Eliab do you ever make it to the Cincinnati, OH area? After I get my noise issue straightened out, I think I am in the need of professional help. The DVE actually overwhelmed me a bit, and I feel like I ended up guessing at the end values. Plus if the display can look any better than it already does..wow. My noise issue is as follows. I am on my second light engine (the first was replaced due to fan/color wheel noise).....and I still hear what I consider a lot of noise. Does anyone else think these sets produce a lot of fan/color wheel noise? What is the acceptable amount of noise from the sets? I have asked similar noise questions before, just looking for as many responses I can get to make sure I am not going mad. I just bought a few room treatments to try to cut down on the noise, they seemed to help some, but still hear noise at low volume levels. I was considering have a tech come out again or trying to exchange the set, but if this noise is normal, I will just have to learn to live with it.

No, they don't offer updates. It won't ever be turned on for the 87's.

Thanks for the correction, and additional information.

My new set DLS6187W is dead silent.. Might be something else wrong.

Does anyone know why the Digital Television channels (from the cable input) cannot be named? Is there any way around this? I put them in my Favorite Channels list, but I would still like to distinguish between the channels.

I assume it is because most of the Digital channels send channel information along with the video signal. However, (I have Cox Cable) the Digital channels offered in my basic cable package never have any info associated with them. It makes differentiating the channels tough.

If I listen closely, I can hear the fan on my HL-S4266 when the room is absolutely silent and the volume is set very low. I can also hear the fan as it runs for a couple minutes after powering down the set. The owners manual says a small amount of fan noise is normal. I never hear anything other than the fan though.

Eliab,

Here is another "do you get in my area ?" question. That area being the central part of Michigan (Saginaw). I think I'm about ready to take the calibration plunge.

Bob

Hell i want the service as well but in South East Michigan.. Though my tv wont be ready for action till after the new year.

Unless you have the HD-DVD add-on this is not correct. The 360 will output 1080p over component for any non HD-DVD content played on it.