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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 393

post #11761 of 21377
Could someone please PM me the instructions on how to close the iris and set gamma to 0? I have the HL-S5687W. Thanks
post #11762 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post

Could someone please PM me the instructions on how to close the iris and set gamma to 0? I have the HL-S5687W. Thanks

Or just post it for the rest of us who missed it.
post #11763 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

I have no answer for you, but I do have a question.

As you're the second person to recently use WoW in reference to a cable box...What does that stand for? The only WoW I'm familiar with is World of Warcraft and I'm pretty sure Blizzard doesn't make cable boxes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashenor View Post

Hey ya i am used to WoW as World of Warcraft also, played that game way to long!

Its Wide Open West, i have that and Comcast in my area.

Dang, I figured War of the Worlds. I had a hat that said WOW for that movie, and while I was out, someone thought I was a World of Warcraft player. Heh.
post #11764 of 21377
What stores on the East Coast carry the 88 model. That's the one with TVGuide, right?
post #11765 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post

Could someone please PM me the instructions on how to close the iris and set gamma to 0? I have the HL-S5687W. Thanks


I'd like this information as well.

And I'd like to know the cause of the excessive noise in some areas at times. Almost like some areas have a diffuse glow filter on or something.
post #11766 of 21377
Actually, I forgot to ask a few more things from current owners:

How good is the QAM tuner in these sets? I'm going to be relying on that as I don't have any kind of set top box.

Also, does it output through the digital out for analog SD programming also or just for digital?

How is the black level compared to the Mitsu 732 or the Sony SXRD (I've tried these so far) ?

Thanks!
post #11767 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

No, you connect the HD-DVD drive to the 360 through a USB cable and use either component or VGA for everything. If you want 1080p for HD-DVD you'll have to use VGA though.

Are you sure about this? Everything I have read up to this point indicated that the HD-DVD player did 1080p over component, and you just needed the VGA if you wanted to upconvert normal DVDs, or if your TV didn't do 1080p with component. This is the specific reason I decided to go with the Samsung set, because it accepts 1080p over component.
post #11768 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

As I just mentioned above, this is incorrect. You will be able to get 1080p over VGA.

And over component, right? Though you may have to wire straight from 360 to TV.
EDIT: I later saw that DVDs don't do 1080p over component off the XBox 360. And apparently even the HD-DVD player only does 1080p over VGA. When I get a 360, I guess VGA will be the way to go...I wonder if I'm going to need a switch box to also use my laptop.
post #11769 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutyafal View Post

What stores on the East Coast carry the 88 model. That's the one with TVGuide, right?

Tweeter......yes it has the TV Guide but it won't work with DirecTV or cable I don't think unless youhave the cable card..........
post #11770 of 21377
Eliab just finished calibrating my HLS6188 and I am more than impressed. I thought the picture before calibration was great now it is Awesome!! The picture coming from my HD-A1 Dvd and my PS3 Bluray are absolutely stunning. The blacks, skin tones and detail is spot on.

Eliab was very receptive to all my questions even the "dumb" ones and was very willing to share some of his vast expertise with me. Eliab is great at what he does but he is also a great guy and we talked less about electronics and more about life in general.

So if anyone is still on the fence about getting your set professionally calibrated, my opinion is to jump in, it is well worth it.

Eliab, thanks again for great results and conversation. Have a great time in Vegas in January and remember " What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas".

Mark.
post #11771 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChldsPlay View Post

Are you sure about this? Everything I have read up to this point indicated that the HD-DVD player did 1080p over component, and you just needed the VGA if you wanted to upconvert normal DVDs, or if your TV didn't do 1080p with component. This is the specific reason I decided to go with the Samsung set, because it accepts 1080p over component.

HD-DVD player does 1080p ONLY through VGA. You can set your 360 to 1080p and play games with component, but for HDDVD you need VGA for 1080p. Try your local Gamestop/EB, I picked up the official Microsoft VGA cable (preowned) for $9.99 a few days ago.
post #11772 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feralhog View Post

Tweeter......yes it has the TV Guide but it won't work with DirecTV or cable I don't think unless youhave the cable card..........

I think it all depends on your Cable carrier, TVGOS is tranmitted off of your local PBS station. I have Cox and it downloads to my DVR and TV directly from my current service. But unless this is device specific I dont think you'll "need" the cable card for TVGOS, it is just a substitute for your cable operators own Guide when you are not using their STB

Tweeter does carry the 88 and the price they quote online is competitive with other retailers.....
post #11773 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2061 View Post

Eliab just finished calibrating my HLS6188 and I am more than impressed. I thought the picture before calibration was great now it is Awesome!! The picture coming from my HD-A1 Dvd and my PS3 Bluray are absolutely stunning. The blacks, skin tones and detail is spot on.

Eliab was very receptive to all my questions even the "dumb" ones and was very willing to share some of his vast expertise with me. Eliab is great at what he does but he is also a great guy and we talked less about electronics and more about life in general.

So if anyone is still on the fence about getting your set professionally calibrated, my opinion is to jump in, it is well worth it.

Eliab, thanks again for great results and conversation. Have a great time in Vegas in January and remember " What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas".

Mark.

How much do calibrations generally run?
post #11774 of 21377
Sat down to watch a movie tonight on my 6187W when I see two knats flying around the screen. To my horror, they were inside the TV! I opened-up the right 'port hole' and sucked them out with a vacuum hose. I assume they got in to the TV through the fan.

I noticed there were fingerprints on the mirror near the edge (great Samsung QA ). What is the best way to clean these off? Also the light engine lens looks dirty. How does one clean it? TIA for help from those who have done this.
post #11775 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2061 View Post

Eliab just finished calibrating my HLS6188 ...

Thanks for your report. I've added it to the "owner's who've had calibration done" list that is linked at the bottom of my post.

Enjoy.
post #11776 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGBlues View Post

Sat down to watch a movie tonight on my 6187W when I see two knats flying around the screen. To my horror, they were inside the TV! I opened-up the right 'port hole' and sucked them out with a vacuum hose. I assume they got in to the TV through the fan.

I noticed there were fingerprints on the mirror near the edge (great Samsung QA ). What is the best way to clean these off? Also the light engine lens looks dirty. How does one clean it? TIA for help from those who have done this.

Hey, I had the same fingerprint in the same location, must be a common grab/push location at the factory. I just took the dry microfiber cloth Samsung included in my package, and softly wiped, it came right off. Not sure about the light engine lens, I didn't really notice that.

Sure smells new in there, like a warm kind of new car smell. Very interesting looking inside seeing what's going on inside.
post #11777 of 21377
Thanks for the word on the stuck pixel..

Yeah its definitely noticeable because its right smack dab in the middle of the screen and it looks like a bug on peoples foreheads lol... anyhow since its wobulated its definitely 2 mirrors stuck which is equivalent to 4 stuck pixels... I will post back with the answer I get from the Circuit City service department and hopefully they can send me a new light engine.

Also on another note I would like to take a second to thank all of you long time posters on this forumn because I have been lurking on this site for easily 2 years and this site was fundamental in me upgrading my tv to the 5087

Thanks for all of your help.

Carlos
post #11778 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChldsPlay View Post

Are you sure about this? Everything I have read up to this point indicated that the HD-DVD player did 1080p over component, and you just needed the VGA if you wanted to upconvert normal DVDs, or if your TV didn't do 1080p with component. This is the specific reason I decided to go with the Samsung set, because it accepts 1080p over component.

As has already been answered, yes, I'm sure. The TV does accept 1080p over component but the 360 won't output 1080p over component from the HD-DVD drive. It's a lot of legal mumbo jumbo, but basically it comes down to a loophole in the copyright restrictions as they relate to VGA.
post #11779 of 21377
Thank you htwaits and rnick1976 for catching my post and providing answers. I am not that impressed with my 5687 playing SD TV and regular DVD. The color on my digital pictures are good. However, there are too much contrast on these pictures. Don't know how to change contrast for displaying USB pictures. When the picture has close to 1920x1080 pixels, the left/right/upper boundaries look worse than the two concaved lines when using 4:3.

I am planning to get the Toshiba HD-A2. My local Best Buy has a couple of them. Also, Time Warner will install hd cable. I am currently on Dish Network. Hopefully, all this new "contents" will help me forget those distorted borders.
post #11780 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

This has been a documented problem. Eliab has said that after he calibrates he informs people that this may happen and to adjust the brightness as you had to. I don't think it's specific to the VGA cable though. Maybe when Eliab gets back around here he can clear it up again.

EDIT:
Apparently the problem I was thinking of is related to DNiE, but it sounds very similar.

Yea that is exactly what is happening. Man that sucks . I hate that . My set isn't officially calibrated, I went in there and did most of it myself but so I though I messed something up but I couldn't find out what it was. I documented everything I did and saw that I did nothing wrong. I'm glad that the problem wasn't my fault. Thanx.
post #11781 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by DHS View Post

The weird thing is they were black before and now they are gray. Also, that 1" black strip in between the grey bar and the picture is quite distracting. Some channels, the black strip is thinner while others thicker. Does anyone have a similar problem or have any suggestions?

A black strip between the gray bar and the picture!? Hmm, you've got something configured wrong, probably on the cable box. You probably want a full frame output setting from the STB and to toggle the aspect ratio manually on the TV. I run with the HD CableCard TiVo so I don't have to much experience with the STBs. How are your DVDs? Are the bars sensible there?

- Collin
post #11782 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tichondrius View Post

this forum is pretty useless. it's amazing how infrequently a question gets answered. only certain specific (and usually not generally interesting) questions get answered by folks who take their tv too seriously. But genrally useful information, like comparisons and basic advice is almost never discussed or answered. what a shame, what a waste (of time)

It never cease to amaze me that people will complain about anything, particularly about something they get for free, and particularly about the efforts of the many people who actually do provide information here, rather than merely take information (me, for example).

If you don't like what you find or do not find here, demand a refund.
post #11783 of 21377
Well I've searched, but with no hits, I get to ask Has anyone tried to use DVE via the xbox360 on VGA? This is on a new HLS6187. Mine will not let me change the sharpness and tint settings nor will it let me turn off DNR (I'm guessing that's a function of the VGA input).

I've gone into the service menu and set the gamma to 0 (after writing down all the settings, and taking digital pics/movies of each screen ) - I noted there DNie demo is set to on (didn't change) and there is also a Dnie on/off which is set to ON (also didn't change) - I presume both of these can be set to off, but wanted to check first.

I guess I can check to see if my settings stuck by going back in, but figured I'd ask instead of using a lmap cycle - I presume the the service menu settings are saved just by exiting. I merely turned off power to exit and waited for the fan to turn off. later I read that you have to hit mute twice then power, but don't know if this is correct.

In the tech wiki, I saw that eliab recommends turning CCA to off prior to using DVE, however, there is another post saying to use his "base" settings and then use DVE. I left CCA on. And went with the second option - is this correct?

I've also read about how some people are "closing" down the iris, but didn't know if there was a consensus about this (not to mention I can't find the setting - I think it's Lamp control, but i ain't messing with it).

I've found that the cabinet is really wobbly, but I need to run back up to CC and check their floor model to see if mine is more than expected.

I watched Superman returns on HD DVD on the 360 via VGA, and there seems to be a fair bit of noise in the dark areas. Using DVE I have brightness set to 38, and contrast had to be bumped up (although I'm not sure if I'm setting this quite right). I had it set to 70, but I backed it back a bit. I'm going to run it over component and see if there's a difference (will report back)

Last question - how long should you break the TV in for before having it professionally calibrated? I'm planning on having umr do it as I'm in the Dallas area.
post #11784 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel72 View Post

If you are speaking about the HLS series the answer is yes, 100% sure. If you are speaking about TV's in general, I don't know of any that I have run across that pass a DD 5.1 signal along. You might be confusing a DD signal with a DD 5.1 signal. DD can be in different formats, including 2.0. Your receiver might be getting a DD 2.0 signal and converting it to surround sound with something like Prologic or Logic7.

OK, well then, that officially sucks. Now I have to go back to connecting the optical inputs and switching the receiver all the time. Rats, I thought the connections solved that for me.

Of course, this does give me an excuse to buy a new receiver that does the switching but I suppose I have to make sure they strip the 5.1 signal for internal use and not just pass it through, correct?
post #11785 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChldsPlay View Post

I'd like this information as well.

And I'd like to know the cause of the excessive noise in some areas at times. Almost like some areas have a diffuse glow filter on or something.


Check out the tech links in my signature line for threads on getting into the SM and setting Gamma to Preset "0" (which is actually a 2.5 gamma setting.. make sense? no?)

Also, make sure DNIe is "off"... this is a large source of noise and overall "neon/noisy" pictures...

Cheers,
Doc
post #11786 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post

Could someone please PM me the instructions on how to close the iris and set gamma to 0? I have the HL-S5687W. Thanks

I don't know how to close the iris, but i believe gamma is under options in the service menu (this is on a 6187). Look in the tech wiki near the bottom there is one labelled "how to get to the screens".
post #11787 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipper IV View Post

While I have had a few of my questions answered, this thread *is* rather light on the info for the 390+ pages it spans.

Samsung Tech Links, Tips, and more info here

Merry Christmas!
post #11788 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarbare View Post

I don't know how to close the iris, but i believe gamma is under options in the service menu (this is on a 6187). Look in the tech wiki near the bottom there is one labelled "how to get to the screens".

Closing the iris is in my wiki/tech links, and I think it's under a thread called "What's Inside...", just scroll down a bit in that thread... it also has pictures of all the service menu screens, there, too.

here's a direct link to a post in that thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8714305

I run my iris closed down to "160" (higher numbers are more closed), which is about right for my dark theater room and the contrast at the default movie setting of 70.

Remember, hit "CTRL-F" and do a search for the term you want to find quickly on that page (e.g. "inside" or "iris", etc.)

Smarter, not harder,
Doc
post #11789 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by docrings View Post

Also, make sure DNIe is "off"... this is a large source of noise and overall "neon/noisy" pictures...

Cheers,
Doc

Quick thing doc - are you referring to DNie off just in user settings, or in all the places you can see it in the service menu?
post #11790 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarbare View Post

Quick thing doc - are you referring to DNie off just in user settings, or in all the places you can see it in the service menu?

I've turned it off in the SM wherever it occurs...but it doesn't seem to "stick" on the TV's menus. It defaults back to "on" whenever I enter the SM to turn off overscan. But my remote's macro turns everything back to defaults with one push of a button, so no big deal for me.

(In hindsight, I know I saved $400 getting the 87 vs. the 88 (where the overscan sticks), but it is a small pain to have to go through the macro everytime I turn on the television (overscan off, DNIe off...but hopefully, someone will be able to "reverse engineer" some code we can upload through the USB port to modify the firmware on the 87's.)

Doc
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