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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 394

post #11791 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by docrings View Post

Closing the iris is in my wiki/tech links, and I think it's under a thread called "What's Inside...", just scroll down a bit in that thread... it also has pictures of all the service menu screens, there, too.

here's a direct link to a post in that thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8714305

I run my iris closed down to "160" (higher numbers are more closed), which is about right for my dark theater room and the contrast at the default movie setting of 70.

Remember, hit "CTRL-F" and do a search for the term you want to find quickly on that page (e.g. "inside" or "iris", etc.)

Smarter, not harder,
Doc


Hmm... I didn't realize you could vary the amount the iris is opened or closed. When you just close the iris, what is the defualt value that it "closes" to. I didn't adjust this, so I guess I was doing that wrong.

Also, what does Actuator On/Off do?
post #11792 of 21377
I read in a few places that with a professional calibration, that they can make the calibrated settings the default settings. Is this true? If it is, all we'd need to know is the function they do to commit those changes.
post #11793 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post

Could someone please PM me the instructions on how to close the iris and set gamma to 0? I have the HL-S5687W. Thanks

Bump.....
post #11794 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve0813 View Post

Hmm... I didn't realize you could vary the amount the iris is opened or closed. When you just close the iris, what is the defualt value that it "closes" to. I didn't adjust this, so I guess I was doing that wrong.

Also, what does Actuator On/Off do?

YOU cant vary the opening... but the Dynamic Black function can. With Dynamic Black off... Aperature on/off determines if the actuator is open or 'closed'.
post #11795 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkay View Post

I read in a few places that with a professional calibration, that they can make the calibrated settings the default settings. Is this true? If it is, all we'd need to know is the function they do to commit those changes.

yes... if the calibrator choses to do so. After my set was calibrated, the defaults are now the 'correct' settings per the instruments. Tweaks for equipment variations are dialed in with user mode settings.
post #11796 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

YOU cant vary the opening... but the Dynamic Black function can. With Dynamic Black off... Actuator on/off determines if the actuator is open or 'closed'.


I think I might be confused between what the iris does and what the actuator does.

Doesn't the gain adjustment manually open or close the iris in small increments?
post #11797 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve0813 View Post

I think I might be confused between what the iris does and what the actuator does.

Doesn't the gain adjustment manually open or close the iris?

They are one and the same..... The actuator controls the iris opening.

I would imagine that the gain is for how aggressive Dynamic black 'pumps' the iris/actuator opening. I havent messed with it. Is it gray with DB OFF?
post #11798 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

They are one and the same..... The actuator controls the iris opening.

I would imagine that the gain is for how aggressive Dynamic black 'pumps' the iris/actuator opening. I havent messed with it. Is it gray with DB OFF?

But once you disble DB and set the iris to closed....then the iris should not move automatically anymore....so at that point doesnt the gain simply open or close the iris incrementally?
post #11799 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

yes... if the calibrator choses to do so. After my set was calibrated, the defaults are now the 'correct' settings per the instruments. Tweaks for equipment variations are dialed in with user mode settings.

Do you know if this includes the overscan "off" setting? Or does that revert regardless of overwriting the factory defaults?
post #11800 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJustLikeTivo View Post

OK, well then, that officially sucks. Now I have to go back to connecting the optical inputs and switching the receiver all the time. Rats, I thought the connections solved that for me.

Of course, this does give me an excuse to buy a new receiver that does the switching but I suppose I have to make sure they strip the 5.1 signal for internal use and not just pass it through, correct?

In most instances, you will gain little or nothing from routing the video through the receiver, unless you are upconverting a video source from Composite or S Video to Component or HDMI. Assuming you are sending out a component or HDMI signal to start with, I would just send it directly to the TV. In some cases, routing the HDMI signal through the AVR will create handshake issues, depending upon the hardware. And if you are going to have to use a second cable for audio, then you will save nothing in the way of cables.

The only possible benefit is that you do not have to change the TV input as well as the receiver input when changing source material. One way to get around this is to use a remote that has macro programming for activities and not just pieces of equipment, like one of the Harmony remotes. Then you simply press an activity button once and all of the equipment will be turned on and set to the proper inputs. You push one button, the remote "pushes" however many buttons it needs to in order to get the system set up correctly for the activity.

The only other drawback with this is if you are using a HD-DVD or BluRay player and want to send a Dolby True HD signal, you will still need to use HDMI or 5.1 analog to get it to the receiver (someone correct me if I am wrong on this. I don't think you can send it via component). If you use HDMI, and you also want to send the video to the display via HDMI, then it will have to be routed via the receiver. None of the current HD DVD players, as far as I know, have multiple HDMI outputs.
post #11801 of 21377
Hey gang, wondering if any of you could help me with a color settings question.

I have just purchased a Sammy HL-S5087W from BB, gotta love no interest until 2010...

Finally hooked up my Silver Sensor to watch a little HD last night, man -o- man what a picture! During commercial breaks, however, I found myself messing with the color settings to correct the yellow/green issues I was seeing. I messed around with the settings so much, frankly, I don't remember what they are set to now.

Does anyone have a listing of what color settings they have their Sammy HL-Sxx87's set to? A link would be great also, even though I can't seem to find one doing a search. I currently have my picture mode settings very close to Eliab's starter settings with a slight increase in brightness due to a really dark signal coming from my TW cable.

Thanks in advance for any help possible!
post #11802 of 21377
Another disadvantage of all devices going through 1 input on the tv is that you won't have individual color settings and other user preferences for each individual device. Calibration for one device might throw another device's picture totally out of whack.
post #11803 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve0813 View Post

But once you disble DB and set the iris to closed....then the iris should not move automatically anymore....so at that point doesnt the gain simply open or close the iris incrementally?

Dont know... but I doubt it. There really isnt any reason to move the iris more open than the 'closed' point. The display is plenty bright with the iris 'closed'.
post #11804 of 21377
Ok, not sure if anyone else is experiencing this:

During really bright picture, on my HL-S5687W, mostly with white background I can see almost like 'floating' spots on the screen. It is really hard to explain, only visible when you keep your eyes on one spot. Almost like the colors are 'floating'. I don't think it's rainbows, because I can only see it on static images. Am I the only one seeing that? I haven't experienced anything like that with any other TV. I sit about 8 feet away.
post #11805 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

Dont know... but I doubt it. There really isnt any reason to move the iris more open than the 'closed' point. The display is plenty bright with the iris 'closed'.

This was the post I was getting my information from...it's in the Tech Links

Quote:
Originally Posted by docrings View Post

I reduced my iris to a setting of "160" and I like it.

When I go to the Service Menu and everything gets reset to Dynamic and full contrast... I'm not blinded anymore in my dark home theater, and the default Movie contrast of 70 is about right when I reset the video settings.

Resetting Gamma(s) to Default Zero's also was nice, allowing better blacks... very noticeable improvements after re-calibrating using "Get Gray" DVD, and then tweaking with some dark DVD's (Gladiator is one of my favorite calibration DVDs with good fleshtones and perfect cinematography exposures of shadows. It's also a good transfer of the film, too.)

Current setup:
HTPC running Zoomplayer, FFDShow, HDMI-1
Neutral color control in ATI, FFDShow, Zoomplayer
"QuickGamma" program at 2.42, boots with Windows

Gamma 0 in SM
CCA on in SM
Iris - off, level set to 160 in SM
DNIe OFF via SM

Video mode "Movie"
Contrast 70 (remember my iris is reduced manually in the SM !)
Bright 45
Sharp 0
Color 41
Tint Red56
Temp Warm1

The tips in this thread with the iris and gamma controls has been real helpful... now if I could just tweak the R, G, B sub-settings to eliminate my red clipping!
post #11806 of 21377
Is it individual colors, like red, blue, green? If so, I'd say it's some sort of the RBE. I only notice it on moving white images on a black background myself.
post #11807 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkay View Post

Is it individual colors, like red, blue, green? If so, I'd say it's some sort of the RBE. I only notice it on moving white images on a black background myself.

If you are addressing this to me, I don't think I can see actual colors. It's almost how the image is projected on the actual TV screen. Like the screen itself isn't perfectly smooth, creating micro little spots everywhere. The closer you sit to the TV, the easier it is to see them. Strange thing about it, I have far from perfect vision, and I don't wear glasses either.

As I said, it is extremely hard to explain, and I will have to ask a few other people if they see what I mean.
post #11808 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobra2k3 View Post

Ok, not sure if anyone else is experiencing this:

During really bright picture, on my HL-S5687W, mostly with white background I can see almost like 'floating' spots on the screen. It is really hard to explain, only visible when you keep your eyes on one spot. Almost like the colors are 'floating'. I don't think it's rainbows, because I can only see it on static images. Am I the only one seeing that? I haven't experienced anything like that with any other TV. I sit about 8 feet away.

SSE (Silk Screen Effect)?
post #11809 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jktrading View Post

SSE (Silk Screen Effect)?

Thanks, that must be it! Taken from wiki:

"Silk Screen Effect (SSE) is a visual phenomenon seen in rear-projection televisions. SSE is described by viewers as seeing the texture of the television screen in front of the image. SSE is found on all rear-projection televisions including DLP and Liquid Crystal on Silicon (LCoS).

The effect is most visible when viewing bright white or very light colored images. Viewers also report seeing "sparkles" when viewing very bright colored images."


I think I will have to mess with settings some more. It doesn't really bother me THAT much, but at least I know I'm not the only one seeing them.
post #11810 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobra2k3 View Post

Thanks, that must be it! Taken from wiki:

"Silk Screen Effect (SSE) is a visual phenomenon seen in rear-projection televisions. SSE is described by viewers as seeing the texture of the television screen in front of the image. SSE is found on all rear-projection televisions including DLP and Liquid Crystal on Silicon (LCoS).

The effect is most visible when viewing bright white or very light colored images. Viewers also report seeing "sparkles" when viewing very bright colored images."


I think I will have to mess with settings some more. It doesn't really bother me THAT much, but at least I know I'm not the only one seeing them.

On mine, I see SSE in the black areas, like shirts and dark backgrounds. With Eliab's settings, they're gone pretty much, but for some reason I like the "pop" of dynamic (wife too), so I deal with it. Actually, if you don't "look" at it, I don't notice it. I've had my set a couple days, and I'm already not seeing it more. Soon, I expect to only see it if I look for it. It's almost a non issue over here.
post #11811 of 21377
When I first used the 6187, I noticed it a lot because I was "looking" for imperfections. When I'm playing a game or watching a movie, I don't even notice it unless I think "oh wait let's look for SSE". It's really not as distracting as many people make it out to be, at least on my set.
post #11812 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by docrings View Post

I've turned it off in the SM wherever it occurs...but it doesn't seem to "stick" on the TV's menus. It defaults back to "on" whenever I enter the SM to turn off overscan. But my remote's macro turns everything back to defaults with one push of a button, so no big deal for me.

(In hindsight, I know I saved $400 getting the 87 vs. the 88 (where the overscan sticks), but it is a small pain to have to go through the macro everytime I turn on the television (overscan off, DNIe off...but hopefully, someone will be able to "reverse engineer" some code we can upload through the USB port to modify the firmware on the 87's.)

Doc

I agree.... OVERSCAN MUST GO!!!

I share your problem. I LOVE my xx87, but without overscan it looks much better.
What remote do you use? I need a similar macro on my Harmony 550. Do you have remote codes? I need a macro for my OVERSCAN MUST GO campaign.
post #11813 of 21377
I picked up my 5687 last night and I have a few questions that I wasn't able to find answers to with a search.

1) How should I setup my DirecTiVo? For now we're sticking with our old SD Tivo until we decide what we want to do for HD service. I told the Tivo we have a 16:9 display, but it's behavior is pretty erratic. I set the TV for 4:3 and 4:3 content displays as I'd expect (with black bars on the side). But then for no reason, it seems to switch to filling the screen (and yes, it's still 4:3 content). Any wide screen content is even stranger. Sometimes it fills the screen, sometimes it fills horizontally but has black bars above and below (I know this is 16:9 content). I checked out Leno which used to display letterbox on our old 4:3 set, and it looked like it was 4:3. I'm very confused.

2) I was playing with DVDs last night and discovered that I have to manually adjust the set to either 4:3 or 16:9 depending on the content. It's not so much a problem, but I guess I expected the TV to automatically detect that for me. Is this normal behavior?

3) As I said, we're not sure what to do for HD content yet, so I picked up a $10 antenna. According to AntennaWeb.org, we should be getting pretty much everything with the lowest end antenna. When I actually tried it last night, things were pretty spotty, but we also had a major storm in the area last night that knocked out satellite, power and knocked over part of our fence. So I'll try again this weekend after the storm passes. But what I had a question about is how to tune in to a station? I did the auto channel setup, but it didn't find all the stations in the area. I wasn't able to manually go to a digital station. I just want to type in 32-1 for example and go to that station so I can add the channel. But the TV wasn't letting me because it didn't find it on the auto detect. Is there a way to do this or does the TV have to find it first with the auto detect?

Beyond that, my first impressions of the set were iffy believe it or not. We just jumped up from a 32" SD set and it took some getting used to. But once I stopped examining the picture and just enjoyed the shows, my opinion did a 180. I watched some DVD material (season 2 of The Wire) and was blown away once I got into the show. There were details there I'd never seen before. And this from my low-end $60 JVC player. I can't wait to see something like the HD-A2 playing.

I wasted about 30-45 minutes trying to adjust the color on my DVDs. It was beyond awful and I thought I'd have to return the set. I finally discovered that the red cable from my component out had come unplugged during the move to the new TV stand. Then my Surround wasn't working right, but that also turned out to be another loose cable.

As I mentioned, the OTA HD material was spotty. When it worked, it was mind blowing. But I kept loosing the signal and couldn't even pick up some stations. Now that the storm has passed, I'll play with it some more this weekend and see if I can get it working more consistently. If not, I'll return the antenna for a better one. But I ought to be having good luck according to antennaweb.org.

Thanks to Eliab for the initial settings. I used his values for contrast, brightness, etc. I have DVE ordered from Amazon and will fine tune things even more when that arrives. And after the break-in period, I'll probably also go for the professional calibration.

I was worried about RBE because I see it here at work on our projectors we use for presentations. I see it really badly even though no one else does. I think I might have detected just a hint last night, but it's certainly something I can live with. I was surprised to see SSE without even looking for it. But when I watched the content instead of the screen, I was able to tune it out pretty well. I don't think it will detract from my viewing pleasure.

After today, I have a two week vacation, so this couldn't have come at a better time.
post #11814 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefer View Post

On mine, I see SSE in the black areas, like shirts and dark backgrounds. With Eliab's settings, they're gone pretty much, but for some reason I like the "pop" of dynamic (wife too), so I deal with it. Actually, if you don't "look" at it, I don't notice it. I've had my set a couple days, and I'm already not seeing it more. Soon, I expect to only see it if I look for it. It's almost a non issue over here.

Yes, I agree. However, once you notice it, you're bound to look for it. Mainly, because I didn't know what it was, and I was always trying to look for it. Now, however, I'll try my best to ignore it. Seems like it is mainly caused by high contrast...at least to me.
post #11815 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel72 View Post

In most instances, you will gain little or nothing from routing the video through the receiver, unless you are upconverting a video source from Composite or S Video to Component or HDMI. Assuming you are sending out a component or HDMI signal to start with, I would just send it directly to the TV. In some cases, routing the HDMI signal through the AVR will create handshake issues, depending upon the hardware. And if you are going to have to use a second cable for audio, then you will save nothing in the way of cables.

I think you misinterpreted my response. I don't plane to switch the video unless I buy a new receiver that upconverts the signals from non HDMI sources. I will switch the audio to use the optical switching for the audio from all three optical sources. When I thought the TV was doing it, I was just leaving the Receiver on the Optical input from the TV and using the source button on the TV remote to swap HDMI sources. Now, I still do that but route the optical from the DVD and Series 3 Tivo to the receiver and use the receiver for the audio from them as well as the older directivo which also has an optical output for 5.1 sound from the satellite.
post #11816 of 21377
Hello all - this is my first post here.

I'm about to buy a HL-S5088W or the S5087W Samsung 50" 1080p DLP. I've been reading this thread a bit and have found it enormously helpful and want to first thank everybody. Some great info here! However, it's sometimes hard to tell between the outdated information and the new, so I've got a few questions:

1) My biggest concern is that I've read several user comments that talk about lemons and terrible Samsung customer service. For how many people is this an issue?

2) Differences between the 5087 and the 5088. I understand the 5088 has a CableCARD slot, a firewire port and a sexier front. Are there any other differences? How relevant will a CableCARD be?

3) In CNet's obnoxious review of the 5687 (56" version), they cite that the TV "cannot resolve every line of 1080p." Have any of you guys noticed this and, should it concern me?


Thank you all ahead of time, this forum is awesome!
post #11817 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by thericky View Post

I have two issues with my HL-S5687W:

1. I previously posted about the deinterlacing issues I've been having with my new set. Almost everything I watch results in deinterlacing jaggies. Does this set not know how to properly deinterlace a signal? It's driving me NUTS. Any sudden fast motion in SD or HD results in brief jaggies appearing.

2. I have a quiet high pitched whine coming from the back of the set even when it is turned off.

Any help?

I have same issue with mine but don't see any answer to this post ?

Anyone who would know ?
post #11818 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEder View Post

1) My biggest concern is that I've read several user comments that talk about lemons and terrible Samsung customer service. For how many people is this an issue?

Haven't you read any posts that were from owners who didn't have a lemon or that got outstanding service from Samsung? There are a lot of that type of post in this thread and other Samsung related threads.

I think you may be more nervous about a few bad reports compared with all the folks that are NOT reporting their good experiences.

Quote:


2) Differences between the 5087 and the 5088. I understand the 5088 has a CableCARD slot, a firewire port and a sexier front. Are there any other differences?

The main remaining difference is that you can turn "overscan OFF and it stays OFF if you have a HL-Sxx88 model. That's also true of the HL-S5679 and the HL-S7178 models. The other models including the HL-Sxx87 sets will revert to ON when you leave the SM.

Read About It Here

Quote:


How relevant will a CableCARD be?

If you use a cable company for your TV and you aren't interested in any "pay per view" services then cable card lets you receive your TV signal without a STB. That's provided your local cable company knows how to deal with CableCard. Not all of them do.

Quote:


3) In CNet's obnoxious review of the 5687 (56" version), they cite that the TV "cannot resolve every line of 1080p." Have any of you guys noticed this and, should it concern me?

Read the reports from owner's who have had their sets professionally calibrated. There is a link at the bottom of my post.

Eliab, David Abrams, and UMR own 1080p HLS sets and they think that after calibration that the HLS models are the most accurate sets on the market. I believe that the people at CNet don't know how to properly calibrate the HLS sets and that explains some of their comments.
post #11819 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by dineau View Post

I have same issue with mine but don't see any answer to this post ?

Anyone who would know ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by thericky I have two issues with my HL-S5687W: 1. I previously posted about the deinterlacing issues I've been having with my new set. Almost everything I watch results in deinterlacing jaggies. Does this set not know how to properly deinterlace a signal? It's driving me NUTS. Any sudden fast motion in SD or HD results in brief jaggies appearing.

To get help you must provide more information. What exactly are you watching? What devices are you using? How are they connected? And, how are they configured?

It would also help to know how your TV is configured.

Quote:


2. I have a quiet high pitched whine coming from the back of the set even when it is turned off.

That's a defective power supply. If your dealer will exchange your set that's what I would do. If not, it's not a difficult repair -- call Samsung.
post #11820 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJustLikeTivo View Post

OK, well then, that officially sucks. Now I have to go back to connecting the optical inputs and switching the receiver all the time. Rats, I thought the connections solved that for me.

Of course, this does give me an excuse to buy a new receiver that does the switching but I suppose I have to make sure they strip the 5.1 signal for internal use and not just pass it through, correct?

I'm not sure what you mean, but there are two basic ways I know of to manage 5.1 signals.

1. Switching receiver which passes the audio and video to the TV (and then just silence the TV by setting the volume down to 0).
2. Pass video to TV, and audio to receiver separately.

I use the former wherever possible, though with the XBox 360 it will be the latter. In any case, if you haven't done so already, I recommend supplementing your system with a remote like a Harmony or Pronto so that you can automatically set your receiver and TV to matching settings for a given input.
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