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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 397

post #11881 of 21377
This is my first post. I have been reading the forum for over a year. Thank you for all your help. We ordered the HLS6187 through Amazon and received it about a week ago. Thank you for alerting me on the price drop. I just emailed them. I agree with others that have ordered from Amazon. Eagle delivery was great. I have no complaints.

My greatest worry was getting a lemon. This TV has none of the problems mentioned on this forum. I used Eliab's settings and really wonder if the picture could actually be better.

Right now I have rabbit ears hooked up and the high definition channels just blow my mind away. The PBS station is the best. My husband and I now travel Europe and feel like we are there. Last Sunday we watched football on CBS over the air. I can't find the words to explain how great the picture was.

We do switch over to Comcast analog TV. I found that if I use the standard mode with Eliab's settings the picture really looks good at night. (We have skylights and sliding glass doors in the great room.) What I am happy about is that there is no reflection on the TV during the day, but analog looks best at night). Better than I expected. I wonder if I order the digital box would it look better. I would appreciate an answer if anyone out there has noticed a big difference from Comcast analog to Comcast digital.

I am also interested in buying an upconverting dvd player. So I will keep glued to this forum. I notice others interested in this subject also.

Another alternative would be to build a computer for dvd's, the internet, and recording TV. But I would like to wait on building a computer until Window's Vista. Right now I have hooked up a desktop computer and a laptop through VGA. There is no overscan. The desktop (home built) is newer and plays dvd's a lot better than my laptop or old dvd player. But the hubby wants his desktop in his computer room. He won't use my laptop. I can't believe this house needs 3 computer. Thank you again for all the help this forum has to offer.
post #11882 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipper IV View Post

Just got my 5687 delivered a few minutes ago. I was expecting a delivery between 10 and 4, and I get it earlier than that. I definitely cannot complain, especially since it was a Sunday delivery. You don't see too many companies doing that these days.

Anyway, I made the recommended changes to the picture settings, and it already looks just as good, if not better, than my calibrated Westinghouse LCD did. There is some bowing, but I don't watch much 4:3 stuff. Even still, it's at the bottom, and it isn't terribly distracting. Can't wait to plug King Kong into the HD DVD player and give this display a full test drive. My next tough decision is whether to go ahead with the day off I have scheduled for tomorrow, or move it to Friday, instead. I originally took off because I thought the TV would be delivered tomorrow, but that's no longer the case. Decisions, decisions...

Oh, by the way, I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but I haven't the slightest idea what to search for to get my answer. Anyway, after turning the TV off, how long should you wait before turning it on again? Is there a good rule of thumb for that, to avoid killing the lamp life?

Congrats!

You should wait until your fan stops. If you get real close to it, you can hear it. Mine runs between 1 and 2 minutes after turning the TV off.
post #11883 of 21377
Both BB and CC are now advertising it at $2099, down from $2599 yesterday.

Wonder if Samsung is giving out dealer incentives or something.
post #11884 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by WWK888 View Post

You just took an extra two hours off the life of your lamp...

Pray tell, where did the "two hour" estimate originate from?
post #11885 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by schererbuzz View Post

Congrats!

You should wait until your fan stops. If you get real close to it, you can hear it. Mine runs between 1 and 2 minutes after turning the TV off.

Actually, my 5687w will wait for the lamp fan to finish running before it will allow the TV to power back up. During that time one of the front panel LEDs will blink. This behavior is described in the owners manual.
post #11886 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muad Dib View Post

Actually, my 5687w will wait for the lamp fan to finish running before it will allow the TV to power back up. During that time one of the front panel LEDs will blink. This behavior is described in the owners manual.


Mine will power up right after you turn it off. No questions asked....

Not recommended, though.
post #11887 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muad Dib View Post

Pray tell, where did the "two hour" estimate originate from?

i'm guessing it was a "tongue-in-cheek" repsonse
post #11888 of 21377
Love the 5087, just got it two weeks ago, but Im returning it today in exchange for the 5687. The 56" is on sale for the same price I paid for the 50" two weeks ago. Besides the 6" screen difference, everything is exactly the same right?
post #11889 of 21377
Just received my new s5087w on Friday 12/15 and am very happy. The last projection tv I had was a Hitachi, don't remember model, but I bought it new somewhere around 15 years ago. They have come a LOOOOONG way !
When I saw the Sammy in the store I fell in love with it. Reading this forum had a lot to do with my purchase. Thanks all.
post #11890 of 21377
Anybody have some suggestions on a good up converting DVD player for the 5087. I want something to hold me over until the HD DVD players come down in price. I only want to spend about $200 to $250. I have been looking at the Denon 1730 or 557. Thanks!
post #11891 of 21377
Hello All! I'm looking at either the 5687W or 6187w (61" preferred). My question was what is the distance from the bottom of the tv to the bottom of the screen? Is it the same on both models? I have a center channel speaker in front of my current DLP (going back to Costco because of an incredibly loud color wheel) and I would like it to fit under the screen of this tv as well. Might seem like a small issue but I have nowhere else to put the center speaker! Thanks for all your help! I couldn't find this dimension on any of the online retailer's spec sheets.
post #11892 of 21377
For the last few months of using the TV (HL-S76187W) as a computer monitor via DVI/HDMI, I've noticed the right third of the TV is a bit "out of focus", with it most pronouned in the lower right corner. The left side of of the TV are as crisp and sharp as they could be. I finally had a little free time yesterday to try and diagnose and correct the problem.

I took the back off and adjusted the tilt and the focus... but I was only able to make that lower right corner marginally less "soft"/"blurry". But I was able to make the left half of the screen even better focused than it came from the factory. I only had to move the focus knob about one full width of the silver mark to achieve this (it doesn't take much!)

I put up a grid pattern from the service menu, and the convergence is way off in the lower right, especially the red color. A blue dot and green dot pattern were just a little smeared, but red dots were doubled and smeared.

(for those SM gurus: I made sure no wierd "left side-right side" demos of denoise, etc. were active)

I realize there is no convergence calibration possible on this set, so unless one of the calibrators has some insight into this, the TV will have to get a new light engine or perhaps be replaced whole.

I bought the service manual back a few months, and it makes only reference to tilt and focus adjustments.

Sharp Upper Left


Blurry Lower Right


Convergence Lower Right (the bars should be thin, instead of fat)



Cheers,
Doc
post #11893 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billex View Post

Hello All! I'm looking at either the 5687W or 6187w (61" preferred). My question was what is the distance from the bottom of the tv to the bottom of the screen? Is it the same on both models? I have a center channel speaker in front of my current DLP (going back to Costco because of an incredibly loud color wheel) and I would like it to fit under the screen of this tv as well. Might seem like a small issue but I have nowhere else to put the center speaker! Thanks for all your help! I couldn't find this dimension on any of the online retailer's spec sheets.

My 5088 is 7 inches from the bottom of the stand to the beginning of the screen.
post #11894 of 21377
Man, the 6187 is still $1,999 at Amazon as reported earlier. And I paid $2,099 for my 5088 at Crutchfield. 11 inches more for $100 less, OMG. Too bad I have limited space in the room I have mine in. That's quite a deal I'm missing. That 61 inch must be HUGE.
post #11895 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonydude1966 View Post

My 5088 is 7 inches from the bottom of the stand to the beginning of the screen.

My center channel "just" fits under the screen height... the problem is a perfectly centered speaker under the screen blocks the infrared port... "remotey no workey!"

I just offset my center channel just enough to expose the IR port just to the right of the center power button. Why they didn't put the IR port off to one side or the other like my other televisions...????

Cheers,
Doc

post #11896 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by buccikong View Post

Any idea what docrings meant by this "Iris - off, level set to 160 in SM"?

Is he referring to the Actu Gain setting? I don't see any other value in that section of the service menu that has a numeric for controlling the iris level. My Actu Gain default settings were both 85.

Click on my "TECH LINKS" below, and find the thread "Inside the Samsung"... there is a discussion in there on how to manually adjust the iris settings. The higher the number, the smaller the iris.

Here's the link directly (Merry Christmas!):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8714305

Cheers,
Doc
post #11897 of 21377
I set the iris aperture to "closed" and also set both gammas to 0 as people have been suggesting. It makes the black levels even better, but man the image is seemingly a lot dimmer even with the contrast cranked to 100. I'll have to see if I can adjust to this or not.
post #11898 of 21377
Quote:


I'll have to see if I can adjust to this or not.

It took me a while to get used to it ... andthere have been times that I say "Nah, I want it brighter!" and I go in and open it again, only to realize that I am a dark-scene convert now. It always goes back to closed.
post #11899 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnick1976 View Post

It took me a while to get used to it ... andthere have been times that I say "Nah, I want it brighter!" and I go in and open it again, only to realize that I am a dark-scene convert now. It always goes back to closed.

Yeah I already thought the blacks were great on the 1080p Samsungs....but man....reducing the the iris makes the screen almost completely dark. I'm just finding if I play a video game that is supposed to be bright and punchy, it just seems a little dim now. My eyes might adjust though.
post #11900 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeBaGeL View Post

There was also one person that reported the score of a World Cup game had less space above it on the Sammy than the TVs around it when they saw them all in store. These are the only 3 mentions of overscan actually causing a noticeable loss of information I can recall and I've read every word of this thread.

Everyone else that has been talking about trying to change the overscan setting has been to improve PQ and/or for 1:1 pixel mapping for their PC connection.

I have not touched the overscan setting on my 6187 and have had zero problems with tickers getting off nor with HUDs in xbox 360 games getting cut off. Hope that helps.

Try getting Dish Network, getting your vip622, and setting the guide to extended view. Bottom row gets chopped off. Wonderful....

Or flip over to the GamePlay channel (A Voom channel) and watch some in game gameplay. Edges of the game screen will all be chopped off.

I have no problem with having the ability to overscan, or even having the TV shipped with overscan on. But not having the ability to turn off overscan and have it stay off with TV on/off cycles is just plain silly.
post #11901 of 21377
I haven't had any problems with games, tickers, or menus getting chopped off either on my 5087W. I used my Avia DVD and threw up the overscan pattern. It only measured 3% overscan on all the sides and 3.5% on the top/bottom....which honestly isn't bad at all.
post #11902 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctishue View Post

I haven't had any problems with games, tickers, or menus getting chopped off either on my 5087W. I used my Avia DVD and threw up the overscan pattern. It only measured 3% overscan on all the sides and 3.5% on the top/bottom....which honestly isn't bad at all.

That's pretty much exactly what I get on my 5687W (I have an Avia DVD as well). My old CRT rear projection sony hs10 was 5% on all sides. So 3.5% isn't bad at all. It just happens to be about 3.5% too much on the GamePlay channel and in the extended guide of Dish Networks HD DVR.

I just wish you could turn off overscan and have it stay off. Sounds like a good idea to me. So good, Samsung made it so on the 88's. Does Samsung ever release firmware updates for their televisions?
post #11903 of 21377
There is a downside to no overscan also though. Some channels don't have enough built in overscan so you end up with noise on the sides of the picture. I have a feeling that's why it is turned on by default on both the 87's and the 88's.....to compensate for broadcaster error.

I actually wish this television had adjustments like my Panasonic plasma had where you could reposition the image any way you wanted. You could also stretch/shrink the image both horizontally and vertically. This would help a lot on game systems with underscan (gamecube and PS2) to fill the whole screen up.
post #11904 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by virgilw View Post

Try getting Dish Network, getting your vip622, and setting the guide to extended view. Bottom row gets chopped off. Wonderful....

Or flip over to the GamePlay channel (A Voom channel) and watch some in game gameplay. Edges of the game screen will all be chopped off.

I have no problem with having the ability to overscan, or even having the TV shipped with overscan on. But not having the ability to turn off overscan and have it stay off with TV on/off cycles is just plain silly.


my 622 chops off the guide on all my HD tv's
post #11905 of 21377
I've found something interesting about the iris setting on my 5087w I turned the aperture to "closed" after turning DB off. I then turned the television off....let the fan cycle finish....and then powered it back up. I went to each of my inputs to fix the settings. When I got to the PC input (my pc isn't currently powered on) I noticed the blank "no signal" screen looked brighter as it had before I turned the iris off. Sure enough I went back to my cable box and video game inputs and they were brighter again too. So I went back into the service menu. The iris was still set to closed. I turned the television off and back on and the image was dimmer once again. So I unplugged the PC from the inputs and cycled through them again. Sure enough the iris stays closed now.

Anyone have an idea as to why the PC input is resetting the iris? I'd have to cycle the power on my television after using my PC to return the iris to its closed state (if I wish to keep the PC plugged in).
post #11906 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by docrings View Post

Here's the link directly (Merry Christmas!):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8714305

Cheers,
Doc

Thanks doc!

I noticed in the screenshot that Actu Gain was set to 69, and my default setting was 85. I believe that the Actu Gain adjusts the wobulation, but I'm not sure what it does specifically. Can anybody else report what their default value is and/or explain what the setting does? I actually changed the Actu Gain setting to 160 (thinking that it might control the iris) before docrings let me know that it's actually SB Gain that was set to 160. I didn't really notice any difference in picture quality, but rainbows seemed to be reduced.
post #11907 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctishue View Post

I actually wish this television had adjustments like my Panasonic plasma had where you could reposition the image any way you wanted. You could also stretch/shrink the image both horizontally and vertically. This would help a lot on game systems with underscan (gamecube and PS2) to fill the whole screen up.

Yeah, you nailed it. Adjustment support would definitely be the ticket. A 0.5% overscan might be ideal.

But alas, I guess I should just shut-up and stop moaning. Short of a firmware update, it is what it is.
post #11908 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyd1 View Post

my 622 chops off the guide on all my HD tv's

I hear ya.... Technically, the 622 probably shouldn't be violating the 5% overscan area since they have to assume sets will not show that area. They stay within "legacy" bounds on all of their screens except the extended guide. On the standard guide they leave plenty of room and assume 5% overscan. Switch to extended guide and the last row of the guide clobbers the overscan area, though.

My dell 24" monitor (which has component inputs) will show everything just fine. And I know another guy with Dish that has some plasma display (not sure what) and it doesn't crop the menu. It's because these units either don't overscan, or it's turned off. Turn off the overscan on the 5687W and the guide shows beautifully (with a tiny bit to spare)...... Too bad the beauty expires at midnight each night (when I turn off the set).
post #11909 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybercowboy View Post

XBox 360 is the limiting factor here.

Here is a simple table.

Xbox 360 Component to HL-Sxx8xW:
Video games: 1080p (if supported by the game)
HD-DVD: 1080i max (not a big deal because of 3:2 pulldown...)

Xbox 360 VGA to HL-Sxx8xW:
Video games: 1080p
HD-DVD: 1080p

The Samsung HL-Sxx8xW TV's are one of the few DLP displays capable of 1080p over component. As a matter of fact, they take 1080p over every single possible input that in theory supports 1080p (VGA/Component/HDMI). The limiting factor is the video game console, and this goes for PS3 also.

Does anyone have the following problem after hooking up their VGA cable?

Now I have bought it, and hooked it up... and I have a black border around my whole tv screen... I have the samsung HL5687W... any ideas? I have changed all the Display settings on the Xbox to all the 8 resolution choices, and have the same problem. Called xbox and they are clueless. Please help, all I want is perfection. Now my HD Movies and my 360 games have a letterbox border on the top, bottom, left and right parts of my screen.
post #11910 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by buccikong View Post

Thanks doc!

I noticed in the screenshot that Actu Gain was set to 69, and my default setting was 85. I believe that the Actu Gain adjusts the wobulation, but I'm not sure what it does specifically. Can anybody else report what their default value is and/or explain what the setting does? I actually changed the Actu Gain setting to 160 (thinking that it might control the iris) before docrings let me know that it's actually SB Gain that was set to 160. I didn't really notice any difference in picture quality, but rainbows seemed to be reduced.


Ahh!! so it WAS SB that was changed from to 160. I thouht that made more sense.

My Actu Gain settings are at 75. I think this may be a case of some of the "fine tuning" done at the factory, so my guess is that our settings maty be a little different .

What are your SB GAIN and DB GAIN defaults?
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