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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 427

post #12781 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by areyou4real View Post

you are describing "black crush". my 5087 was like this, too. a lot of it has to due with the oem gamma settings. if you are comfortable with entering the service menu, try changing the gamma to 0 for both gamma modes. it really helps with the "black crush" and improves shadow detail.

proceed as follows at your own risk:

write down current picture values (contrast, brightness, etc) as you will lose them upon entering the service menu.
with tv off, to enter service menu press, Mute-1-8-2-Power on remote.
find and navigate to gamma section with arrow and enter buttons.
write down oem gamma values in case you want to change back at a later time.
change both gamma modes to 0 with arrow and enter buttons.
power tv off.
wait for lamp fan to power off.
power tv on.
change your picture values back to what you had previously.

that's it, you should notice a big difference in shadow detail now.

FYI: i'm using the settings below and i'm very satisfied with the PQ.

Gamma: 0
Digital NR - On
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 48
Sharpness - 0
Color - 40
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

I was actually looking for it as soon as I saw this.

Is the "Gamma" the SP Actuator settings? Under that menu, there is "Actu Gain (patt 1) - 67" and "Actu Gain (Patt 2) - 67". I think I saw that somewhere, but I don't want to change it until I verify it. I should just bring both of these down to 0?

Also, just thought I'd ask.. when I went into the service mode, the TV kind of emitted a strange "buzzing" noise. Is this normal? I think it was because of the fan or color wheel spinning down... and then turning the TV back on, so it had to spin back up again. But again, is that normal? =)

Thanks!
post #12782 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshrac55 View Post

I was actually looking for it as soon as I saw this.

Is the "Gamma" the SP Actuator settings? Under that menu, there is "Actu Gain (patt 1) - 67" and "Actu Gain (Patt 2) - 67". I think I saw that somewhere, but I don't want to change it until I verify it. I should just bring both of these down to 0?

Also, just thought I'd ask.. when I went into the service mode, the TV kind of emitted a strange "buzzing" noise. Is this normal? I think it was because of the fan or color wheel spinning down... and then turning the TV back on, so it had to spin back up again. But again, is that normal? =)

Thanks!

Never mind, I found the Gamma and changed it. I'll report back what I think a little later.

As for the buzzing noise... that question still stands. Is it normal?
post #12783 of 21315
Think mine has buzzed a few times, not every time though.
post #12784 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshrac55 View Post

Never mind, I found the Gamma and changed it. I'll report back what I think a little later.

As for the buzzing noise... that question still stands. Is it normal?

There are two gamma settings that can be changed: Gamma and Cinema Gamma

Gamma affects the gamma used for every mode except Movie mode (i.e. Standard, Custom, Dynamic).

Cinema Gamma only affects the gamma used for Movide mode.

Both should be set to 0, if you want 0 gamma for all modes. My set used 4 and 5, respectively, by default.

What you described previously (ActuGain) affects the SmoothPicture (SP) settings. SP is Samsung's term for wobbulation. Adjusting the SP settings will adjust the degree of wobbulation. These typically do not need any type of adjustment.

I'm not sure about the buzzing noise? As long as you allow the set to completely power up (~30s, full lamp brightness) and completely power down (fan off state), you are not hurting it in any way.
post #12785 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by areyou4real View Post

There are two gamma settings that can be changed: Gamma and Cinema Gamma

Gamma affects the gamma used for every mode except Movie mode (i.e. Standard, Custom, Dynamic).

Cinema Gamma only affects the gamma used for Movide mode.

Both should be set to 0, if you want 0 gamma for all modes. My set used 4 and 5, respectively, by default.

What you described previously (ActuGain) affects the SmoothPicture (SP) settings. SP is Samsung's term for wobbulation. Adjusting the SP settings will adjust the degree of wobbulation. These typically do not need any type of adjustment.

I'm not sure about the buzzing noise? As long as you allow the set to completely power up (~30s, full lamp brightness) and completely power down (fan off state), you are not hurting it any way.

This only happens when I go to the Service Menu. My understanding was that it was supposed to be done you turn off the TV into "Standby" mode, which I, in retrospect, mistakenly thought was the time it takes to fully power down after hitting the power button. I'll know for future reference. =)
post #12786 of 21315
just got 360 HD-DVD add-on and would like to say "Holy Crap".

Amazing picture with no discernable difference from movie to movie (for the most part)(Chronicles of Riddick, King Kong, Italian Job, MI III).

Regular DVD's look amazing as well. I tested Pirates of the Caribbean 2 from console drive with component and then HD-DVD player with VGA, and there was a noticeable difference for sure.

I have seen posts similar to mine, but I had to say something.

Kevin
_____________________
HL-S5687
Sony 5.1 Recvr
Polk Surround
Xbox 360 - w/ HD-DVD
Xbox - XBMC Dashboard
PureAV Power Conditioning
post #12787 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshrac55 View Post

Never mind, I found the Gamma and changed it. I'll report back what I think a little later.

As for the buzzing noise... that question still stands. Is it normal?

Where did you find the gamma settings at? Thank you!
post #12788 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugzy

Im no expect, but hopefully I can help alittle bit.

SSE - Silk Screen Effect. This is something that can be seen on DLP TV's. Lets say you see a picture of the sky on your TV. On the white clouds, instead of them being solid white, it will look "Grainy" or "sparkly". Im not sure the technical reason for this, I think its something about the pixels moving. Google silk screen effect to find out more.

SDE - Screen Door Effect. This is something that can be seen on LCD TV's, so I dont think you need to worry about it. I could be wrong though. Hope I was of some help.

SSE - Silk Screen Effect is caused by the texture of the screen (used to concentrate light in the horizontal plane), and has nothing to do with DLP directly. It's present in all non-glare screens being used with DLP, LCoS(SXRD) and LCD RPTV sets in the market today.

SDE - Screen Door Effect is caused by the gaps between pixels or mirrors in the case of DLP. If the set is a wobulated DLP you will not be able to see SDE. If the set is non-wobulated 720p DLP then you can see SDE. SDE is easy to see on 720p plasma and LCD flat panels, but much harder to see if they are 1080p. The 1080p sets make it harder to see the black lines between pixels that make up SDE because the pixels are much smaller and the gaps between them are also smaller.
post #12789 of 21315
A few weeks ago, I posted here about a high pitch sound that was coming from the back of my TV. It happens about 1/2 the time I turn it on, and lasts anywhere from 30 mins to an hour or so, or until I turn off the TV. I have verified that I can hear the noise just when the TV is on, so it's not coming from anything else.

Just to describe the problem one more time, when I turn the TV on - after about a minute or two I start to hear a high pitched whining sound. It's not very loud, but it's loud enough to be annoying. It's almost like a ringing sound in the ears. If I turn the TV off, the sound stops. - Unfortunately it doesn't happen all the time, just about 1/2 the time.

So - I called Samsung last week, and the tech which was extremely nice and willing to help said that it sounds like one of the more common issues which people experience; a faulty power supply. That is the exact same thing that you guys told me on this forum a few weeks ago. He went ahead and forwarded all my information to my local repair center which called me last week.

The guy came out today just to take a look at the problem. Unfortunately, I couldn't be home, but someone else was there for me. - They turned the TV on, and didn't hear anything. He tried for about 5-10 more minutes before calling me to tell me that the TV didn't find an issue. - So he gave me two choices

1: He could take the TV to the office and open it up and run it there. He would have it for a week or so
2: Do nothing and wait until something fails.

I was unhappy with both of those choices. I asked if I could schedule another appointment for a time which I would be available in person, and he said that it probably wouldn't be possible. I understand that they don't want to keep coming out, but I know that there is some kind of a problem - and that chances are he'd hear it if the spent just a little more time trying.

So what should I do? Does this problem still sound like a power supply issue? He said that a high pitch sound could be the power supply or the color wheel - Any ideas?

I am thinking of just calling Samsung back and seeing if there is anything they can do...

EDIT: I have the Samsung HL-S5087W - It's about 5 weeks old, I first heard the sound a few days after getting it.
post #12790 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

I have been noticing however during the past few days that on 1 digital OTA channel a very bad "screen door effect". It's only (from what I can tell) present on this one channel.

By definition it can't be SDE which is visible regardless of the source as long as the scene is bright enough.

It also can't be SDE because you have a 1080p wobulated DLP which makes it extremely hard to see any trace of the gaps (black lines) between mirrors.

Quote:


I thought the SDE was only present on LCD's?

See above.

Quote:


Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? I have e-mailed the station's engineers to see if it was something on their end, but no response yet.

Based on what you described it has to be coming from the station. But, I'm still not sure why you thought you were seeing SDE - a rectangular grid of black lines separating all the pixels on the screen.
post #12791 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckf1 View Post

Where did you find the gamma settings at? Thank you!

In the service menu under the "DDPXX" menu (found it in the quote in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ma#post9191977).

Some general observations...

I haven't done any direct comparisons yet, but my "black crush" issue seems to be mostly resolved. I'm using "areyou4real's" settings at the moment (thanks!). I might tweak things a bit, but for now I'm pretty happy with them.
post #12792 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshrac55 View Post

In the service menu under the "DDPXX" menu (found it in the quote in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ma#post9191977).

Some general observations...

I haven't done any direct comparisons yet, but my "black crush" issue seems to be mostly resolved. I'm using "areyou4real's" settings at the moment (thanks!). I might tweak things a bit, but for now I'm pretty happy with them.

Thank you again, I really appreciate the heads-up.
post #12793 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoboBrazil View Post

I have the hls5087 and I've noticed(particularly on hd broadcasts and bluray movies) there is speckling in the background in some scenes. The actors come in fine, but for example a wall in the background might have speckling all over it. What is the cause of this? I have tried this on more than one new samsung and the same thing has happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkay View Post

Probably SSE (Silk Screen Effect).


I have tested the same sources on a Mitsubishi 1080p dlp and I do not notice it. It is only on the Samsung...
post #12794 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

By definition it can't be SDE which is visible regardless of the source as long as the scene is bright enough.

It also can't be SDE because you have a 1080p wobulated DLP which makes it extremely hard to see any trace of the gaps (black lines) between mirrors.

See above.

Based on what you described it has to be coming from the station. But, I'm still not sure why you thought you were seeing SDE - a rectangular grid of black lines separating all the pixels on the screen.

FYI: I spoke to the Engineer at the affected station & after he checked, it was their problem. And he also referred to it as a "SDE-type" problem (for descriptive purposes only). What it turned out to be was an analog to digital converter which they use only to put 4:3 analog material onto the digital channel. The A/D converter was dropping the most important bits, causing the "special effect" I saw. He has since rebooted the converter & all is back to normal.

Ken
post #12795 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

FYI: I spoke to the Engineer at the affected station & after he checked, it was their problem. And he also referred to it as a "SDE-type" problem (for descriptive purposes only). What it turned out to be was an analog to digital converter which they use only to put 4:3 analog material onto the digital channel. The A/D converter was dropping the most important bits, causing the "special effect" I saw. He has since rebooted the converter & all is back to normal.

It's great for a problem to have a nice clear cut cause, and to find someone who knows how to fix it.
post #12796 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Dawg View Post

just got 360 HD-DVD add-on and would like to say "Holy Crap".

Amazing picture with no discernable difference from movie to movie (for the most part)(Chronicles of Riddick, King Kong, Italian Job, MI III).

Regular DVD's look amazing as well. I tested Pirates of the Caribbean 2 from console drive with component and then HD-DVD player with VGA, and there was a noticeable difference for sure.

I have seen posts similar to mine, but I had to say something.

Kevin
_____________________
HL-S5687
Sony 5.1 Recvr
Polk Surround
Xbox 360 - w/ HD-DVD
Xbox - XBMC Dashboard
PureAV Power Conditioning

Wow! I have almost the same setup... 5087, Sony 7.1 Rcvr, XBox 360 w/ HD-DVD and PureAV PC....
I too think that the 360 w/ HD-DVD is awesome... assuming you're also running it over VGA to get the 1080p upconvert. I've tried it with component just for grins. I can't get it to look as good versus VGA. However, I'm curious if you or anyone else has any comments on settings you've adjusted on your xx87 for the VGA input. I notice that most typical settings are not available... but in the main "Settings" area I see there's some PC settings... anyone ever adjusted these? I've found that enabling Game mode makes a bad picture.
post #12797 of 21315
Anyone have an answer to my question about regular DVD players and this TV at the top of the TV?

EDIT: I meant to say top of the page. Silly me.
post #12798 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoboBrazil View Post

I have tested the same sources on a Mitsubishi 1080p dlp and I do not notice it. It is only on the Samsung...

You may be seeing a calibration problem.
post #12799 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazkar View Post

I've been meaning to ask this, but I haven't done so yet...
As a temporary stopgap until I can get some money/the prices go down for HD-DVD/Bluray, I need a DVD player for this new TV (6188W)
From your personal experiences with these Samsung DLP's, should I get one of those upconverting DVD players like the Oppo 981, or just a simple not too expensive progressive scan DVD player since eventually (though maybe a year+ away) I will get an HD disc format player? And any specific recommendations that work well with this TV?

The first thing I connected to my 5087 was my old, non-progressive Toshiba player and I was blown away. The internal scaling/deinterlacing is quite impressive. I too was considering some sort of upconverting player to tide me over but have since decided that money will be much better served getting me an HD player that much sooner.
post #12800 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazkar View Post

Anyone have an answer to my question about regular DVD players and this TV at the top of the TV?




Many people on this thread seem to be happy with the Oppo. As I am an old time gamer, right now I'm just going with my 360; just my 360 and not the HD-DVD add-on. There is nothing wrong with the add-on, but considering that you have all the features on the 360 other than the ability to do HD-DVD, plus gaming and other options, I'm willing to wait and see how things flesh out in the HD world.

Good Luck.
post #12801 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClaytonD View Post

Wow! I have almost the same setup... 5087, Sony 7.1 Rcvr, XBox 360 w/ HD-DVD and PureAV PC....
I too think that the 360 w/ HD-DVD is awesome... assuming you're also running it over VGA to get the 1080p upconvert. I've tried it with component just for grins. I can't get it to look as good versus VGA. However, I'm curious if you or anyone else has any comments on settings you've adjusted on your xx87 for the VGA input. I notice that most typical settings are not available... but in the main "Settings" area I see there's some PC settings... anyone ever adjusted these? I've found that enabling Game mode makes a bad picture.

Does the 360 HD-DVD player do DVD-upconversion? I'm currently using an Oppo 971h, upconverting to 1080i (which then gets de-interlaced to 1080p on the screen), and was sort of considering upgrading to the 981HD, which will upconvert all the way up to 1080p. I was also considering the 360 HD-DVD player, but if it will upconvert up to 1080p, I may go for it (plus a VGA cable) rather than also buying a new DVD player. Of course, I have my doubts if it would look as good as the Oppo... I've been very pleased with it, even going up to 1080i.
post #12802 of 21315
By the way, it has been a long time since I've posted b/c I've had too much fun enjoying my Sammy 6187.

Just out of curiosity, I can't wait to see what Samsung is going to show at the CES this year.
post #12803 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by yonlorelle View Post

A few weeks ago, I posted here about a high pitch sound that was coming from the back of my TV. It happens about 1/2 the time I turn it on, and lasts anywhere from 30 mins to an hour or so, or until I turn off the TV. I have verified that I can hear the noise just when the TV is on, so it's not coming from anything else.

Just to describe the problem one more time, when I turn the TV on - after about a minute or two I start to hear a high pitched whining sound. It's not very loud, but it's loud enough to be annoying. It's almost like a ringing sound in the ears. If I turn the TV off, the sound stops. - Unfortunately it doesn't happen all the time, just about 1/2 the time.

So - I called Samsung last week, and the tech which was extremely nice and willing to help said that it sounds like one of the more common issues which people experience; a faulty power supply. That is the exact same thing that you guys told me on this forum a few weeks ago. He went ahead and forwarded all my information to my local repair center which called me last week.

The guy came out today just to take a look at the problem. Unfortunately, I couldn't be home, but someone else was there for me. - They turned the TV on, and didn't hear anything. He tried for about 5-10 more minutes before calling me to tell me that the TV didn't find an issue. - So he gave me two choices

1: He could take the TV to the office and open it up and run it there. He would have it for a week or so
2: Do nothing and wait until something fails.

I was unhappy with both of those choices. I asked if I could schedule another appointment for a time which I would be available in person, and he said that it probably wouldn't be possible. I understand that they don't want to keep coming out, but I know that there is some kind of a problem - and that chances are he'd hear it if the spent just a little more time trying.

So what should I do? Does this problem still sound like a power supply issue? He said that a high pitch sound could be the power supply or the color wheel - Any ideas?

I am thinking of just calling Samsung back and seeing if there is anything they can do...

EDIT: I have the Samsung HL-S5087W - It's about 5 weeks old, I first heard the sound a few days after getting it.

My opinion would be that this probably is not a power supply issue. Normally that has been described as a high pitched noise noticable only when the power to the TV is off. I would guess something is screwy with the color wheel. Gently rubbing against something or maybe a bearing?
post #12804 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghudson666 View Post

This also makes me wonder if I should allow my Sony DVP-NS75H DVD player to upconvert my old 480i DVD movies to 1080i or should I let my Samsung HL-S5087W DLP tv do all the upconverting to 1080p? Which way will give me the best quality picture?

Thanks!

Consider me an improving novice on most of this stuff...
But I have a 75H and found it produced the best picture with a HDMI connection and setting the upconvert to "auto". It seemed to always send 1080i to my 5087 (per the info button on the 87). When I forced it to 720p or 480p, it was not as good. So to me the 75H was doing a better job of "upconverting". Granted the 87 will convert everything to 1080p internally. Just my 2 cents...
However I've now moved the 75H to the bedroom to work with my Olevia 332H that I got the wifey for Christmas.... I got the kids a XBOX 360 w/ HD-DVD add-on and it's now the DVD player for the 5087. (and does an even better job btw)
post #12805 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshrac55 View Post

Does the 360 HD-DVD player do DVD-upconversion? I'm currently using an Oppo 971h, upconverting to 1080i (which then gets de-interlaced to 1080p on the screen), and was sort of considering upgrading to the 981HD, which will upconvert all the way up to 1080p. I was also considering the 360 HD-DVD player, but if it will upconvert up to 1080p, I may go for it (plus a VGA cable) rather than also buying a new DVD player. Of course, I have my doubts if it would look as good as the Oppo... I've been very pleased with it, even going up to 1080i.




I believe the 360 does upconvert, but I think it can only upconvert to 1080p for games, due to it's lack of an HDMI output for movies -- UNLESS you have a Sammy xx87/88 and can use the VGA connection (someone please feel free to correct me if I am wrong).

Please note: admittedly, I have no basis for comparison b/w the 360 and upconverting DVD players.

If anyone would like to send me an upconverting DVD player so that I may run some tests and get some perspective, please feel free.
post #12806 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

My opinion would be that this probably is not a power supply issue. Normally that has been described as a high pitched noise noticable only when the power to the TV is off. I would guess something is screwy with the color wheel. Gently rubbing against something or maybe a bearing?


If it is something with the color wheel - is that something that can be diagnosed and fixed on-sight by a tech? The Samsung support tech thought it was the power supply, but as you said I don't ever hear it while the TV is off (or just powered off). I only hear the high pitched sound when I first turn the TV on for the first 30 mins to an hour or so.

I really don't want them to take it for a week to "test" it, especially since I know they are fragile and can be damaged during transport, especially without the original box which it was safely secured into.
post #12807 of 21315
Just wanted to say HI!! And that I am the proud new owner of a 6187.

I bought it last week and I have to say I am very very very happy with my purchase.

I do have two questions though.

When playing a movie or watch the HD Movie Channel and the black bars are there on the top and bottom I can see a bubble of light on the black bars on the bottom left. Sort of looks like a flashlight on fogged glass. Should I use the 3:2 pulldown to get rid of the bars? Is this even possible. Only on black I notice it.

The other thing I notice is (This is always noticable when it is off.) If you look at it from the side right in the middle of the screen is that same fogged look but much bigger almost like a huge light is being held up to the screen. I notice it when it is on too. But if I go and sit down I disappears till I turn the set off then I see it again.

Are these common things for this DLP??

Again love the tv
post #12808 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazkar View Post

I've been meaning to ask this, but I haven't done so yet...
As a temporary stopgap until I can get some money/the prices go down for HD-DVD/Bluray, I need a DVD player for this new TV (6188W)
From your personal experiences with these Samsung DLP's, should I get one of those upconverting DVD players like the Oppo 981, or just a simple not too expensive progressive scan DVD player since eventually (though maybe a year+ away) I will get an HD disc format player? And any specific recommendations that work well with this TV?

I'm going to assume that you don't want to repurchase your entire DVD library in HD-DVD or Blu-ray. That being said, I would recommend that you purchase a quality upconverting DVD player. The internal deinterlacing, scaling, and inverse telecine (2:3 pulldown) capabilities of an hl-s set with 480i source material are pretty good, but not as good as what you'll find in a quality upconverting DVD player.

It is generally regarded that Oppo makes the best upconverting DVD players for the money. Since your set is DLP, Oppo would recommend that you get the 970, as it does not have the macroblocking issue inherent to the Faroudja chipset used in the 981 - DLPs are susceptible to macroblocking more than other types of display technologies (LCD, plasma, etc). There is one exception to this, as long as the DLP set is properly calibrated, you can use the 981 with excellent results, as a properly calibrated set very much minimizes any macroblocking artifacts.

If you head on over to the DVD player forum, you can read messages from people who have used both the 981 and 970 with an hl-s set.
post #12809 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckFly View Post

I believe the 360 does upconvert, but I think it can only upconvert to 1080p for games, due to it's lack of an HDMI output for movies -- UNLESS you have a Sammy xx87/88 and can use the VGA connection (someone please feel free to correct me if I am wrong).

Please note: admittedly, I have no basis for comparison b/w the 360 and upconverting DVD players.

If anyone would like to send me an upconverting DVD player so that I may run some tests and get some perspective, please feel free.

As I said in my posts slightly above...
I have a xx87 and have used the Sony 75H upconverting over HDMI. It sends 1080i for a very good picture. I now have the XBOX 360 w/ HD-DVD and VGA cable. It's even better. For the other person that asked, if you use the VGA cable, it upconverts to 1080p (per the info button on the 87). If you use component cable, it DOES NOT upconvert and sends standard DVDs as 480p. They don't look nearly as good that way. As a matter of fact, I just did this test last night. Swapped VGA and component cables on the 360 to see the differences in HD-DVD, DVD and games. VGA is the way to go if you have a xx87/88 and XBOX 360 w/ HD-DVD. OK, that's my 3 cents worth.
post #12810 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by yonlorelle View Post

If it is something with the color wheel - is that something that can be diagnosed and fixed on-sight by a tech? The Samsung support tech thought it was the power supply, but as you said I don't ever hear it while the TV is off (or just powered off). I only hear the high pitched sound when I first turn the TV on for the first 30 mins to an hour or so.

I really don't want them to take it for a week to "test" it, especially since I know they are fragile and can be damaged during transport, especially without the original box which it was safely secured into.

I concur with bbexperience. This sounds more like a mechanical issue than a power supply issue to me. The reason it's most likely the color wheel is due to the nature of the sound - something that spins that fast (14,400 rpm) could easily make that type of high-frequency sound if it were out of alignment, rubbing, etc. AND the fact that it only does it while the set is on. There is a slight chance that it could still be the power supply since they are known to change pitch with varying loads, but most cases reported on this thread have to do with it making the sound when the set is off.

bottom line: the tech can replace the color wheel assembly on site. i would see if they would do that for you.
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