Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 494

Anything like this is fixable. It is just a matter of cost and the skill of those involved. Your set will probably require a main board replacement at this point if you cannot flash the firmware again.

Which pretty much wipes out the ISF calibration I had done by Eliab, right?

I was thinking of HD-DVDs being seen in all their HD glory. But I have read that the player also does an excellent job of upconverting regular DVDs.

Probably.

I have some of the equipment you do, and I'm using a Logitech Harmony 720. It can take a little while to program, but once you get it programmed, it functions as you describe. I would definitely buy the remote if I had it to do over again.

The Harmony 720 is activities-based. Example: Watch TV, Watch Dish, Listen to Satellite Music, Listen to a CD, Playstation, etc.

That was the price I ordered mine for back in December. I agree with htwaits on why it would be cheaper. I thought it was a good deal so I jumped on it. By the way I think I had a good experience with ******* and would buy from them again.

Later,
Topp

Maybe if they replace the board, you'll get the very latest one with the latest firmware. If that's the scenario, I wonder how many others will follow your example just for that reason. ;-)

You are assuming that they will replace the board for no charge. If they find out that he fried the board himself, they may not be willing to do this. I got my set around June 1 via the PowerBuy, I think it is an April 06 build date. I have no desire to screw around with the firmware, unless I get an official release from Samsung with instructions that indicates it is approved for customer use. Otherwise, I think you take a big chance.

Before this set I had a Sony XBR300. They issued a service alert on it about a year after it was out, but I didn't find out about it for five years. Once I learned of it, I called Sony and they had an authorized technician come out and replace the board for free, even though it was out of warranty. If there are significant issues, I think Samsung will will fix them. But just having the ability to turn off overscan in the service menu is not what I would call signficant, since it was never an advertised feature anyway, on any of the models.

^ Well, between Samsung's warranty and the extended warranty I purchased at Best Buy, I'm hoping that I'll be well taken care of. Maybe withholding some key facts might help...

Exactly.

The difference in PQ between this being off or on is miniscule for most people. A 1080p display will alias for any 1080p source frequencies other than the individual pixel burst anyway because these displays do not have enough resolution to avoid under sampling problems. Video will consist of all frequencies and not just those associated with individual pixel locations. How a display handles the information between 1 and 2 pixels is where all of the action is at and a little shift in overscan is not going to be a huge factor in this.

HARMONY 880 Awesome remote man even controlls my lights

I have a couple of dumb questions. I have a 6187W and had it for 6 days.

My screen through HDMI - 2 is not centered. It's way to the right and up a little. I have my D*TV HR20 (HD DVR) plugged in on this port and I noticed this using HDNet's test pattern. I have no other gear right now with an HDMI connection.

1.) Does the Overscan need to be turned off to center the screen?

2.) If ovescan needs to be turned off and I center my screen and my overscan doesn't stay off (sorry, i totally forgot to check my build date), will my centering problem return?

Thanks for your help.

No.

You can tell which version you have as soon as you enter the SM. Just check out the picture of the first page posted by Viper GTS.

New "87" model firmware/SM dated 12/11/2006.

the other night I tried (and the key word is "tried") tweaking my 618W using Avical's DVE guide. I was somewhat defeated in the end after becoming confused with what i was doing. I'm hoping you all can help me a little.

The part that confused me most was the CCA being off and on. I noticed that my levels for brightness and contrast were different with the CCA being turned off and on. With the CCA on, I noticed these levels being lower and with it off, i notice (speficially the brightness) being higher. I kepted the settings while the CCA was on due to Avical's only mentioning of the CCA to be turned off for "color adjustment. is this correct?

I also noticed between the CCA being off for brightness using "DVE Pluge w/white" that the 4% below black was not present at any level while it was present when the CCA was on. No big deal since i pretty much knew the reason was beyond my understanding at that point.

The other tweaking that I was confused was the contrast. "title 12, Chapter 14, "Reverse Gray Ramps & Steps."" I was having difficulty in spotting the point of "clipping." It seemed liked everybar was was always distiguishable at both the max and min levels. I also tried looking at the color of the white but saw little to no change. Is this common or should I have noticed the blending of the bars at some point and/or color change?

I'm using a Panny DMR-ES10 w/component cables and made sure my "black level ouput" for component was set for "normal." My options are "ligher", "normal", and "darker."

No, nothing to do with overscan.

Go to the service menu. With TV off, Press Mute, 1,8,2, Power.

Once in the service menu, arrow down to DDP3021 and press Enter/Select. On the DDP3021 menu change the V-Position and H-Position settings. Remember, arrow up and down to move through the menus, left and right arrows to change a field. Menu key after making adjustments to values. Menu Key to move out to main menu. Power Off. You will then need to re-do all of your user settings for every input source you have.

Augmont,

Are your other input sources off-center?

I switched inputs on my TV last night and I have something very strange happen. I was on the HDMI 1 input (Tivo series 3) I switched using the source button to Component 1 and when I went back to HDMI I had strange red vertical lines coming down on the screen and some patches of green and blue on the screen that moved around. I still could see a picture but it was slightly distorted and some text was showing trails after the last letter.

I started to check other connections S-video( Tivo series 2) had the same problem as well as the coax connection. I didn't have any problem when I used my component which is hooked to my X box 360.

My first though it was the cable company but I went into the other room to check that TV and it was fine. I figured I would check the cables tonight and see if it still was doing it after the TV remained off all day.

Has any experienced this or heard something about it?

I honestly don't know. It didn't dawn on me to check. I'll check tonight when i get home from work

If all of your sources are off-center, the Vert and Horz position settings should do the trick. If it's only one source, there might be a problem with the source, the cable, etc.

Good luck.

I have been into the sm on my samsung hl-s5687 to shut overscan off. I have been tempted to change the iris/gamma setting in the menu but, I can find a post that tell me 100% what to set these to. I have read most of the threads in the samsung dlp hl-s87/88 thread and find a few different settings.

Would one of you pros/semi-pros please give me (the dummy) a quick lesson on what the settings should be. Thanks in advance Mike

They wouldn't cover it if you took a sledgehammer to the set, or stuck a screwdriver into the main board and shorted it out.

Got some new furniture so unplugged everything to move it in. When I restarted the set, all of the user settings were back to factory (eg booted up to DYNAMIC and all the user settings were on torch mode).

Not a biggie as I just put back the Eliab starter settings I had been using, BUT was wondering, would this have reset the SM items too, ie if I had a calibration would that calibration have been lost?

Not a pro/semi pro by a long shot, but just want to say this question probably won't get answered -- not because we're unwilling, but because we're unable.

Some say the iris should be at ~150-160. Some say iris should be at zero (wide open). The only ones that know for sure are the calibrators, and maybe even among them there are differences of opinion. Also, they are doing other things in conjunction with the iris setting that we may not have the ability to do without their test equipment.

I will say this, out of the box, even in Movie mode and the starter settings Eliab provided, my set was really bright and tended to hurt my eyes in a dark room. Even putting the iris (SB Gain) at 0, which I understand is wide open, cuts the brightness level. If I toggle between on/off, I can see the light level drop. So, I have my iris at 0 and my contrast in the 40-50 range. That works fine for me.

Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I've never seen anyone have a definitive answer to this question.

I don't intend my comment to be definitive, but I played around with my iris set at 0 and 160. At 0, my contrast needed to be set about where you are indicating. At 160, I now have it at 90-95.


To my eyes, the picture looks more 3D and seems to have more dynamic range at 160 with contrast bumped. YMMV. 0 was still to bright to me.

I dont think people share the same views as me, but since I am not a videophile ::

I do not care if the colors are EXACTLY as they are in real life. IMO, real life colors are washed out. I want something vibrant. I want explosions to explode with more explode-ness than the real life explode-ness. I want a picture that is brighter, more vibrant, and more entertaining. So, settings that reduce brightness and kill some vibrance of the picture are no goes for me. I dont know if anyone shares my view on this, but my TV stands out and makes life look better than life, which I think setting iris to 0 and gamma to 5/6 and turning off DNIe eliminates.

I had my set on my svideo port when I did the upgrade. I used a 128MB flash drive. It said it was ready to update and chimed when it started the upgrade (through the remote command, not just inserting the drive), and it took just about 5 minutes of blank screen appearing to be doing nothing before it chimed again, then reset itself and popped back on TV input. Did your tv chime initially, and did you wait for it to fully upgrade and cycle back on? Interupting that would surely hose the TV.

Curlyjive, I agree with you. I have the iris at 140, and the contrast at about 85. Any higher than that, and it's too dark. At zero, I couldn't see a difference.

Be sure to check! I still have a situation where my 4:3 images will become off center (horizontally) when I switch between 16:9 HD and 4:3 SD. I had thought it was the TV but discovered that by powering my STB (Moto 6200) OFF/ON the 4:3 image will become centered again.

No biggie, just annoying.

P.S. I did check the TV V-Pos and H-pos settings in the SM - they were fine.

Well I am still seeking a balance between daytime/nighttime viewing and HD/SD channels.

I am not there yet...

It does seem to me (amateur alert! ) that if the manual iris setting forces one to set the UM Contrast at 90-100 to achieve a reasonably bright picture that too much of the dynamic range of the UM Contrast adjustment has been lost.

A manual iris setting which allows a UM Contrast adjustment with 50 as a midpoint would be preferred.

JMO

amazon raised the prices on al the samsung dlp tvs i was looking at...hopefully they will drop back down by early march