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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 567

post #16981 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

There aren't any physical differences between the January and March builds. It's possible that the January build is just a lemon. However, to verify that you need to connect the same DVR box with the same cables to both TV's if you haven't already. That would eliminate all external factors. If you still have a significant difference it's time to call in for service.

As for overscan and tilt- The tilt is a fairly common issue and is a fairly easy fix for a semi-knowledgable tech. It's a matter of slightly repositioning the light engine. The overscan is also fairly normal. These TV's apply both a "digital" overscan and a "physical" overscan. It's entirely possible that the January TV is applying more digital overscan than the March one. Unfortunately, since it's an 87 series you don't have a practical way to disable the overscan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDCELL View Post

There may be a difference. My Feb build has a totally different Lamp Code than others have. May indicate a change in the light engine. I wanted to pick up a spare lamp and cant find it anywhere. And you CAN disable overscan on 87s if they have the newer firmware. Mine does, and I did.

My code is BP96-01698A

Thanks for the information. I'll pass this along to him. It's interesting to know if the light engine was changed. Hopefully a fix for him won't be too difficult.
post #16982 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kegger5150 View Post

Heres a nice update in my happy little world:

It has now been 4 months that my 6188 is not working. (repeatedly turns itself off over and over again). The Tweeter technician ordered a new light engine 3 months ago after looking at it. Since that time I have been on countless phone calls with Samsung and Tweeter......let me tell you, both of their customer service and communication to their customers sucks big time!!!!!!!

As of Monday, I am now being told that they cannot get me a new light engine! I called Samsung again and they said that they are willing to give me a replacement tv....the HL-T6176S. What a slap in the face! That is a total downgrade to my 6188. I don't think the 6176 has 10 bit processing, doesn't have Cable Card, and doesn't have PIP.....which is extremely important to me. For the last three days, I have been arguing with their executive customer relations group. I told them that when I bought my 6188 in October '06, I spent the extra money for that model because it was the top of the line, and for the features listed above. And everyone I speak with at Samsung says that all I'm entitled to is the HL-T6176S. I told them that I want a comparable replacement tv with similar options, the 6188 was top of the line in October and I should receive a similar top of the line replacement......not just because its fair, but because I'm entitled to it under the warranty terms and conditions. I've told them repeatedly, I want the HL-T6189S because its the current top of the line model and it has the same features that my 6188 has. But Samsung isn't budging.

I am probably going to have my lawyer file a class-action lawsuit against Samsung for violation of their own warranty terms and conditions. From what it sounds like, I'm not the only one they are trying to screw over.

The worst part is though.....imagine having your brand new TV not working for the last 4 months! Not to mention all the countless hours I've spent on the phone, and driving to and from the Tweeter store I bought this curse from.


I feel for you and had a very similar experience except one generation of TVs ago. I had an HL-R5067 that got the dreaded shadow on the left side of the screen. Well, long story short Samsung finally approved a replacement which was an HL-S5087. I thought great, a new TV and a newer model. However, after some research I found out that it didn't have CableCard, PIP, and some other inputs I liked to use. This was completely unacceptable because I am pretty much married to my CableCard slot. I told Samsung that it would cost me several hundreds of dollars in out of pocket costs because I'd have to completely change cable plans, rent equipment, etc. I told them that I would except nothing else than the HL-S5088 which most closely matched my TV feature for feature despite it being a 1080p model. They gave me a hard time, I had to talk to several different people and wait for call backs, etc but finally they understood my side and issued me a brand new HL-S5088 with CableCard slot and all.

My advice to you, if you're right they will come around. If you're trying to get something for nothing it probably won't happen. But, from the sounds of your story you were in the same boat as me and you are totally in the right. I kept track of all my conversations, times, dates, and reference numbers in an excel spreadsheet. This was over the course of about 3 weeks. Every time I called I would reference who I talked to, the dates, and the time frame. Frankly, I think I embarassed them it had gone on this long. Keep your ducks in a row and be firm. Good luck.
-Andrew
post #16983 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdridge View Post

I have a question on the correct hookup for my new Samsung coming. For the best PQ, will it matter if I use Component or HDMI cables? My two sources will be my FiOS HD DVR and my XBox360 HD DVD Add-on (that will be RGB) I may move my HD DVD player from my other tv to this one which now connects with Component.

I guess the real question is related to my FiOS HD DVR hookup. Should I go with the Component or will HDMI give better PQ on the Samsung?
post #16984 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdridge View Post

I guess the real question is related to my FiOS HD DVR hookup. Should I go with the Component or will HDMI give better PQ on the Samsung?

In theory HDMI should be better, but in practice most people can't see a real difference. However, seeing as an HDMI cable from Monoprice is only about $6 you might as well get one and use that, if for nothing else to give you a cleaner look.
post #16985 of 21377
Man oh man, do I have bad luck .. I will be getting back a Sammy DLP this week and last night my XBOX 360 crapped out.

So now I need to decide if I should wait till the end of April for the MAYBE arriving ELITE 360 with HDMI or just get a Core and swap my HD over and use VGA that gives me 1920x1080 anyway.

All I know is I am VERY HAPPY to be getting my DLP back after trying a huge amount of other TV technologies but now have no 360 that the Sammy DLP's look so good on over VGA.

Oh well, at least I will have my DLP back !! But after convincing myself to spent the extra I was paying to go from the 56"to the 61" is even tuffer since now I need to dump for a new 360 (with warranty this time)

Sorry for the rant, but I needed someone to talk to !!
post #16986 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kegger5150 View Post

I told them that I want a comparable replacement tv with similar options, the 6188 was top of the line in October and I should receive a similar top of the line replacement......not just because its fair, but because I'm entitled to it under the warranty terms and conditions. I've told them repeatedly, I want the HL-T6189S because its the current top of the line model and it has the same features that my 6188 has.

Sorry you are having issues with your set.

But I can understand Samsung's point of view .... you are requesting that they replace your blub set with a LED set .. not exactly apples to apples

Also check out this link ... not sure if this is your problem exactly but it may be the solution you need .. it's worked for others. Good Luck.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10062907
post #16987 of 21377
HELP! What just happened to my set?

I turned on the tv for a night of movie watching, went to change the picture size and the
[ 4:3 ] menu stuck on the screen! No other UI or menus would appear. The [ 4:3 ] eventually left the screen and now no UI elements or menus will display on the screen!
post #16988 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

Unlike the others that have posted about this, I'm assuming that you aren't viewing TV content here as you state that it's functioning as a home theater. That being said, my recommendation would be to definitely upgrade the DVD player to an upconverting variety with HDMI out. I would stay out of the HD DVD format battle, but that's just my personal preference for various reasons. Anyway, in the upconverting DVD market you have tons of choices. I recently bought a Sony 5-disc upconverting player (DVP-NC85H) for around $180 (prices are lower now I think) and am quite happy with it. Others have recommended OPPO, which is a forum sponsor.

Having said all THAT, if you do decide to go HD DVD since you have the extra cash budgeted, you'll probably want to either get LG's new dual format player at $1200 or spend less but have two boxes and get one of each player. If you're at all interested in gaming you might consider getting an Xbox 360 at $400 and the HD-DVD add-on at $200 and a PS3 at $600. Obviously if you don't game and have no interest that would make no sense.

Also, and this is straying a bit from this thread, I don't think you need to upgrade your receiver. You don't say if you have a full 5.1 or 7.1 system, but it appears that your receiver is capable of that if you're not and you want to upgrade there. It has 4 digital audio inputs (3 TosLink, 1 Coax) and 2 component video inputs. You could probably do with a couple more video inputs, but it's probably not going to be a big deal.

So I think the only money you NEED to spend is in the DVD player department, and the amount really depends on how bad you want HD DVD. If you really want to go crazy you could easily distribute those funds differently on more speakers if you aren't 5.1 or a video processor and the list goes on and on...


Thanks to everyone so far for the feedback. As you can tell, it did not even occur to me to indicate what my HD source would be. I currently subscribe to comcast, so I would likely up my service with them, at least to start. I might explore a dish at some point.

I also am looking at an upconverting DVD - Oppo most likely, although there are some other good suggestions in here. Not ready to commit to HD-DVD. Have a baisc Xbox that I use for gaming on occasion and woul be tempted by the rumored HD-DVD Elite version of the 360. Guess it depends on which platform gets the next gen Star Wars game.

While I am a huge movie fan and have a large DVD collection, I also want to be able to blow my mind with the sporting events I love.

I am sure lots of questions will arise once I pull the trigger. Any other thoughts are most appreciated.
post #16989 of 21377
Called MS again tonight and even being a good 4 months over they will fix my 360 FREE and give me 2 more years coverage for $52 Cdn.

MS ROCKS !!

YEAH ..... my 360 will probably be back before my 61" Sammy arrives..

DLP and 360 (again) ... can't wait !!
post #16990 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggestmuff View Post

HELP! What just happened to my set?

I turned on the tv for a night of movie watching, went to change the picture size and the
[ 4:3 ] menu stuck on the screen! No other UI or menus would appear. The [ 4:3 ] eventually left the screen and now no UI elements or menus will display on the screen!

Turn it off and then unplug it from the wall for a couple of minutes. Think of it as rebooting a computer.

That may fix your problem. If it doesn't you will have to call Samsung for support. Someone who owns a HLS may be able to give you better advise. It wouldn't hurt to know exactly which set you own and what your connections are.
post #16991 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaBliss View Post

Sorry you are having issues with your set.

But I can understand Samsung's point of view .... you are requesting that they replace your blub set with a LED set .. not exactly apples to apples

Also check out this link ... not sure if this is your problem exactly but it may be the solution you need .. it's worked for others. Good Luck.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10062907

Thanks for the FYI, I wish it was that simple. But ever since the tech had the TV apart and then back together, its still turning on and off.
post #16992 of 21377
Has anyone noticed with our TV's images on the screen that are blue in color show noise more than other colors?

I can't tell if it's an inherent thing with the movies I'm watching or the TV or something. I watch HD-DVD's and Blu-Ray movies alot and it seems that not always, but alot of the time noise on the screen comes from blue colors. I've noticed with both HLS5087W TV's I've had. (got a bad one that I had to take back) Anything I can do to reduce this?
post #16993 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypocrisyB View Post

Has anyone noticed with our TV's images on the screen that are blue in color show noise more than other colors?

I can't tell if it's an inherent thing with the movies I'm watching or the TV or something. I watch HD-DVD's and Blu-Ray movies alot and it seems that not always, but alot of the time noise on the screen comes from blue colors. I've noticed with both HLS5087W TV's I've had. (got a bad one that I had to take back) Anything I can do to reduce this?

I have never seen this problem. One of my favorite DVD's is Into the Blue which is nothing but Bahamian blue ocean baby and it looks WONDERFUL. God bless you Samsung!
post #16994 of 21377
Sammy 5087 - Has anyone experienced a loss of sound when switching sources using the remote? I am hooked up to a Onkyo TS-500 using the optical ouput on the Sammy. The sound come back if I cycle through the sources again ending at the desired source. It only happens when I choose HDMI 1 which is my comcast dvr box. all other sources kick out first try. DVR sometimes require a re-select to get the sound. Anyone have that. . . . . bueller. . . . . .bueller

TIA
Noa
post #16995 of 21377
I purchased a 6187w a while about 4 months ago. Looking at the back of the unit, I've got a July 2006 unit. Everything seems to be fine so far; however, in dark scenes, i noticed a lot of grain in the picture. What could be causing this? Can I adjust anything to fix this? I've got both DNR and DNIE OFF.

Thanks,

James
post #16996 of 21377
I don't know if something related to this has been posted here before, but I've looked & can't find anything.
I've posted before about constant bulb burn-out in my HL-S6187W. After much complaining, Samsung has agreed to replace the unit (I received a call 2 days ago telling me so). I purchased my current set the latter part of this past December. When this unit is replaced, are there different builds within the same model that might provide me with a unit that has different (or improved) firmware? In other words, did Samsung produce the same model with improved features, etc?

Ken
post #16997 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Turn it off and then unplug it from the wall for a couple of minutes. Think of it as rebooting a computer.

That may fix your problem. If it doesn't you will have to call Samsung for support. Someone who owns a HLS may be able to give you better advise. It wouldn't hurt to know exactly which set you own and what your connections are.


Unplug the TV and Hold Down the Power button on the front of the TV for 10 secs.
post #16998 of 21377
I just wanted to post a positive message. I have had my 5687 for a little over two weeks now and it is absolutely wonderful. I used Eliab's starter settings and everyday I have to comment on how beautiful the picture is. The PQ is just as good, if not better, than my friends LCDs and I didn't have to settle for a 42" screen. Anyone considering getting this tv should not think twice.
post #16999 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

I purchased my current set the latter part of this past December. When this unit is replaced, are there different builds within the same model that might provide me with a unit that has different (or improved) firmware?

It the new set has a build date of 12/11/2006 or later you will probably have a new firmware version. All we know about it is that the new version makes it easy to turn overscan off.
post #17000 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamest26 View Post

I purchased a 6187w a while about 4 months ago. Looking at the back of the unit, I've got a July 2006 unit. Everything seems to be fine so far; however, in dark scenes, i noticed a lot of grain in the picture. What could be causing this? Can I adjust anything to fix this? I've got both DNR and DNIE OFF.

Thanks,

James

You can start with Eliab's beginning settings and DVE tutorial.

A professional calibration will work too.

There are links to both at the bottom of my post.
post #17001 of 21377
Well after having my hls6187 for about 4 months, I decided to return it and get another one with the newer firmware. I just wanted the best possible picture and knowing that the later builds of the exact same tv could permanently turn overscan off was too much to bear. So after a lot of phone calls to amazon, they agreed to take the tv back for a full refund. Then I saw that Frys had the tv for about $400 less then what I paid at amazon. So I jumped on it. Long story short, I got my new hls6187 yesterday and I confirmed it was a Feb 07 build and had the latest firmware and service menu.

The first thing I did was bring up the HD Net test patterns and then changed gammas to 0, and turned overscan off. I noticed that about an inch an a half on both sides were getting cut off with overscan on. The weird thing is, the top and bottom did not change at all. One of the reasons I wanted to change the overscan setting was so that I could see more of the picture on the top and bottom so turning it off actually doesnt help much.

Then I set my user menu settings to Big E's starter settings. I noticed much more detail in the darks. Changing the gammas to "0" let me see the texture of Detective Stabler's jacket (law and order svu) which before was all the same shade of black.

Anyway, I turned the tv off and put my daughter to bed. Came back up about an hour later and turned the tv back on and checked the HD Net test pattern and saw that overscan was back on! Then I went back into the service menu to turn it back off but saw that once I entered the service menu, the overscan setting was still off! Since I had the HD Net test pattern up while I entered the service menu, I could see the screen get smaller. Im not sure what is happening or if any of you have this same issue.

Basically, overscan stays off in the service menu even after turning the tv off overnight, but the screen is still overscanned. Even with it turned off in the SM.

Is there more than one place where I need to turn overscan off? Have any of the owners of the newer firmware models tested the overscan on their tvs?

Here are my pics that I took...

This one is with overscan on. Notice the top and bottom.


This is one with overscan off. Notice that the top and bottom stay the same and the sides move in about an inch and a half.


Crx
www.crxchai.com
post #17002 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by cricks View Post

Is there more than one place where I need to turn overscan off? Have any of the owners of the newer firmware models tested the overscan on their tvs?

No, but there is more than one kind of overscan.

First, all TVs have overscan for historical reasons. The Samsung DLP light engines are placed in the case and focused so that there is aproximatly 2% physical overscan and 1:1 pixel mapping.

On top of that, their sets are upscaled to create a total overscan of about 5% which is pretty standard for TV. One side effect is that the image is no longer 1:1 pixel mapped and is slightly softer.

The overscan you turned off is the part created by upscaling the image. Here are more details relating to overscan as you find it in Samsung DLP sets.

The Long Overscan Story

The folks who like the "overscan" off feature the most are HTPC users.

I would not want to be without 1:1 pixel mapping because of my HTPC.

One problem that you will still have is that there is still "physical overscan" that will cut off some of the Task Bar in Windows. There are two ways around this problem. You can double the size of the Task Bar. That's the easy work around.

Turn off overscan and adjust vertical and horizontal image location with these instructions.

Provided by scsiraid

You can also use a program called PowerStrip to customize your desktop resolution. I haven't used PowerStrip myself but it's very popular with HTPC owners.

You can get PowerStrip 3.7 here.

If your set was built on or later than 12/11/2006 then the instructions for turning overscan off are different, but the setting will hold when the set is turned off.

New "87" model firmware/SM dated 12/11/2006

From the Main SM screen select SDP62(SCALER). The overscan switch is located at the bottom of the right side column on the "SCALER" screen.
post #17003 of 21377
Quote:


This is one with overscan on. Notice that the top and bottom stay the same and the sides move in about an inch and a half.

Hmmm - with overscan off your center circle seem to be a bit of an oval, with overscan on it looks like a circle.....

One direction overscan?

Don
post #17004 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don1959 View Post

Hmmm - with overscan off your center circle seem to be a bit of an oval, with overscan on it looks like a circle.....

One direction overscan?

Don


Thats what I was thinking. One direction overscan. Only the left and right side actually change when turning it on/off.

As far as the overscan setting sticking, it appears to stick in the SM but for some reason, it doesnt stay stuck on screen. When I go back into the SM to turn it back off, it is already set to off and I notice the screen snap back to the "6" on both sides. Only to go back to "10 " after half an hour of being turned off.

Can anyone else confirm this? Or did I get a bad set?

Also, regarding pincushion, I noticed that the replacement set had worse pincushion than my previous set. I was able to massage the side by pulling the edges with the geometry test pattern so that it straightened out.
post #17005 of 21377
Okay... I've been searching long enough without finding the answer...

HOW do you enter the service menu?

EDIT: It figures, once I post, and stop looking for it I found it...I think. Is this how (I don't own the TV so I can't try it):
When your TV is turned off...push Mute, 1, 8, 2, then power.
post #17006 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don1959 View Post

Hmmm - with overscan off your center circle seem to be a bit of an oval, with overscan on it looks like a circle.....

One direction overscan?

Don

My thoughts exactly. I suspect this is an aspect ratio issue related to your source (STB). I have the same pattern on my DVR and the circles are perfect circles. I suspect his TV is in fact sticking the overscan off, but the stretch/zoom mode of the source is confusing the matter.
post #17007 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

My thoughts exactly. I suspect this is an aspect ratio issue related to your source (STB). I have the same pattern on my DVR and the circles are perfect circles. I suspect his TV is in fact sticking the overscan off, but the stretch/zoom mode of the source is confusing the matter.

Well my source is a Directv HR20 HD DVR. I have it set at 1080i output and the output rez is 16:9. No zoom or stretch.
post #17008 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by cricks View Post

Well my source is a Directv HR20 HD DVR. I have it set at 1080i output and the output rez is 16:9. No zoom or stretch.

Are we just seeing an optical illusion as a result of the snapshot, then? Is the circle actually ovoid as it appears to be in the pic?
post #17009 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by cricks View Post

Well my source is a Directv HR20 HD DVR. I have it set at 1080i output and the output rez is 16:9. No zoom or stretch.

Are you able to try a test pattern from a DVD source?
post #17010 of 21377
I dont have any calibration dvds but I think I can use my bluray disc and use the secret calibration patterns. Ill try tonight and take some more pics.
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