Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 601

^^ That is more an opinated statement than anything, I personally think 1080i looks better on the XB360 than 720p on the HLS series, but others will say 720p. As far as movies go, 1080i on a BD or HD-DVD is noticably better looking and more detailed than 720p.

There are 3 simple ways, in order of complexity and preferably in this order. Each step incrementally decreases overall brightness:

1) Use Eliab's starter settings (which uses Movie mode setting)
2) Change Gamma settings to 0 (Film mode) via the service menu
3) Manually adjust Iris setting via service menu

Personally I stopped after setting the Gammas to 0. PQ was much better and a white screen didn't blind me at night.

Messing with the Iris settings is more subjective because you have to play around with SB Gain. And it was a little tooo dark at this point IMO.

There is more picture data coming from a 1080i signal than 720p, even though the data isn't being displayed all at once. An insightful article somewhere at hometheatermag.com discusses the controversial 1080i vs 1080p topic. Believe it or not, both signals contain the same amount of picture data. It ultimately depends on your tv unit how all the data is displayed.

Either way, based on the above info, 720p does not look bettter. But again, it's all about individual perception and opinion.

I agree with the follow on quotes to this. 1080i looks better than 720p to me. I tried messing around and seeing how different inputs from my SA 8300 box looked. When I put it on 720p it increased overscan. I have a 6188 with overscan OFF and the ESPN HD logo was flush with the bezel. Picture quality was also clearly inferior. Therefore, 1080i for me.

Rimshaker. I agree. It's based on personal preference. The TV is definitely bright right out of the box, because the settings are that way. I've messed around with the different gamma settings (including 0). I haven't messed with the iris. For me leaving the gammas at their defaults and simply turning the brightness down in Custom mode gives me the most pleasing picture. Turning Gammas to 0 made my picture a little too bland and soft (not quite focused). Same with Movie mode. It all depends on whether color "accuracy" is the most important factor or personal preference. Try them out and decide what's best for you.

Hi, I noticed a while back some smudge marks on my screen. The marks first appeared about 4 inches from the bottom (only a couple of marks) The marks are not external. I tried to wipe the area where the marks were and they did not come off.
I first noticed the marks when viewing the computer with the white background.
Once I noticed them on the PC input, I then noticed them on regular TV viewing when light backgrounds were present.
These smudge marks are getting worse.
Today I called Samsung for a warranty call.
At first the lady wanted me to reset the tv by turning it off and unplugging it for 30 sec.
I pretty much knew this was not going to fix this issue.
She then transferred me to a local tv repair place. (Affordable Electronics in Austin Texas)
From what I described the guy said that he thought that my screen would need to be replaced.
Anyone have this problem.

Is it possible to connect a PC to the TV via HDMI/DVI, the owners manual specifically says this is not possible but I wondered if anyone had tried it with any success?

If not wat resolution will I get via VGA, will it be good enough for a HDTV signal ?

Thank you for clarifying. You are correct, I was in the wrong to get defensive. I do hope this particular set holds out for me, although CCity just got the HL-T5076s and all I have to say is "wow". The bowing is completely gone as the screen seems much more firm, and the multuitous increase in user-level settings might make having to go into the service menu a thing of the past. Not to mention the sets are only 10.6 inches deep and look like plasmas from behind.

Yes.


Ignore the User's Guide on this topic.


Many, many, many!

How do you manually adjust iris setting via service menu? my whites are too bright! i need some help with this. Thanks in advance.

Check the Eliab link at the bottom of my post. That will give you a starting point to use the tutorial for the DVE calibration disk.

This just started a few days ago. When I turn on the tv all is well until the screen reaches max brightness. As soon as that happens I can hear a buzzing sound from the lamp area. The lamp has around 1700 hours on it.
BP96-01540A
BP96-01472A

Could the lamp be going already?

Thanks

Damn...now I hope my 6188 completely breaks sometime over the next year to get a T model...haha. I'm sure they're expensive right now, but I could be wrong.

Guys, is Warm 2 the prefered mode with this set out of the box? Using Movie mode.

Also, can someone give the me general recommended settings (an ISF guy posted them previously I believe)?

Nevermind.....I found it.

It could be your dynamic black shutter. I had my 8 month old HLS5687 making a similar grinding noise. I thought the color wheel bearings were shot. The part they replaced on my set is located on the main chassis near the lense and its about 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 2" with a connector and a thin quarter-moon shaped blade that moves back and forth. The part is held in by two screws. The tech changed out the part in less than 5 minutes. My lamp has about 1500 hours. I'm amazed DLP TVs have so many mechanical parts that could fail; cooling fans, color wheels, dynamic black shutters

Call Samsung and have them send a tech out to check it out.

Kelvin

I've been having "issues" with my 5687W and Oppo 970, as stated in some previous posts. On some DVDs, I see a lot of "combing" problems.. on others I even get flickering images from time to time.

I was watching some Futurama the other day on DVD and there was some really really bad "combing" issues on those discs. I was viewing in 720p.

I don't know what prompted me to try, but I bumped it down to 480p.

I'm now seeing considerably less "combing". That's a good thing--but what gives? Why does the higher res give me MORE problems? I thought these Oppos were supposed to be the best?

Is any of my stuff defective, or am I just living the dread that some DVDs are better than others?

So is that the iris? If so, could disabling the iris in the SM "work around" his problem? I may be confusing this with something else, but I seem to recall some users preferring the iris to be off.

Eh, not so fast. I saw a T-model at CC this past weekend and was quite underwhelmed. Didn't have the "pop" of the HL-S bulb-based sets and didn't make up for it in any other area, visually, that I could see. I also get the feeling reading the forums that the new sets aren't exactly setting the world on fire.

Different strokes for different folks, but don't give in to buyer's remorse just yet.

i hooked up my computer to my sammy using vga. i have a comcast dvr using hdmi. when i was done and shut down my computer, i went to watch tv the screen was green and looked like the matrix. i unplugged it called comcast and then it work. did the same thing the next day and bam! the green screen and then it looked like the signal was trying to come through but no dice. switched my box out and i am scared to use vga . is there something i am doing wrong?

What about the T-series bulb sets? I'll definitely have to take a look for myself, but as has been mentioned on here plenty of times, looking at the store doesn't do most TVs justice. Also, a lot of people on here who bought our S-series take the "pop" out anyways when they change the gamma settings to 0, put it to movie mode, or close the iris...haha. I personally like a little more vibrant picture. The big thing that got my attention on the earlier post was no pincushion and supposedly more user settings...such as perhaps overscan options and iris settings. Hopefully, Samsung will make replacement screens for our TVs out of the material being used for the Ts. If anyone gets their screen replaced and notices dramatically improved vertial lines, let us know.

I just bought a HDMI cable from Monoprice (24AWG cable) and have been impressed. Just curious...what brand or spec of coax do people use to connect from the wall to their STB?

Always use the thicker RG-6 cables instead of the thinner RG-59. You can easily bend the RG-59 core with your finger, whereas the RG-6 is pretty solid and stays centered.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable

Hi, my S5687 is about 11 months old, and I just checked the service menu to see how many lamp hours I have used. It shows 1027. As a rule of thumb, is this average usage for this TV for the time I have had it, and how many hours does a lamp usually last? Overall I am very pleased with the unit. Thanks, Bob

I haven't turn off my 5087 in like a month.. I use it as a PC monitor.

Could it be the Ballast ?

Thanks. I still would like to know what is the "average " life of a bulb. I have a warranty that allows 2 bulb replacements, and want to be sure to get one or both, before it runs out.

Bob

I'm hoping someone can answer a question for me. The XBOX 360 dashboard came out and now there are 3 settings for the VGA "reference levels". Standard, intermediate, and expanded.

I don't really know what that means, to be honest. I do know it is supposed to fix an issue with "washed out colors" when connecting the XBOX 360 to your TV using the VGA connector, but I'm not sure if I actually have that issue (like so many other issues, it might be something only a real videophile would pick up on).

So, can someone clue me in? I have the Samsung HLS-5687W.

Do a google search on: daily tech spring update 7216

It won't let me post the link til i've made 5 posts!

Has anyone successfully got a Xbox 360 working by VGA at 1920x1080 on the M86 / M87?