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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 660

post #19771 of 21315
Thanks for checking that for me. I think that's pretty close to what I have, I'll check though.
post #19772 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I've just included your post in the owner's list for the HL-Sxx87W. I hope that's the right model.

The list in linked as "All Other Displays" at the bottom of my post.

I'm not currently reading RPTV owner's threads so it's a big help when anyone PM's me with a link to any new calibration reports.


htwaits,

Glad to see you still checking in here from time to time....
post #19773 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by gccjr View Post

Last night while doing rock band on a PS2 (through composite cables), my sound on the my HLS 5087 started breaking up and within a few minutes went dead. I got it back for a minute when I changed sources, but now none of my sources work (HDMI or composite) with the internal speakers. I've checked internal mute, but that is ok. Since I normally listen to normal television viewing through my reciever, the tv is still usable - I just can't use the game systems on it.

Any suggestions or do I need to call the warranty company again (already did shadow fix). Thanks for any suggestions.

I had something similar happen several months ago, where the audio was sounding distorted.

I ended up doing the "hard" reset and that cured the problem.
I can't remember the exact procedure now, maybe someone else can recall the exact method.
post #19774 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasst View Post

htwaits,

Glad to see you still checking in here from time to time....

I have to keep track of the new stuff. Of course, Samsung isn't providing much information this year.
post #19775 of 21315
I'm having a slight flickering issue like some others mentioned in this thread, but it's only with the PS3 via HDMI. I tried switching to the other HDMI input, but it didn't help. Anybody have an idea what may be the problem?
post #19776 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeBaGeL View Post

Bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeBaGeL View Post

Ok, update time. I've gotten around the "not supported mode" thing. After about half a day it just started working all on its own. This is the third time that has happened....very weird.

Anyhow, the problem now is getting everything to fit to screen. I suppose I should hit the thread about it and powerstrip, but I wanted to check and see if that's the direction I needed to head first.

I have a PC hooked up via HDMI and when I put it at 1920x1080 it doesn't fit right, the taskbar and whatnot all goes off the screen. If I change it to the second highest resolution (1768x992) which is a really weird resolution, it's closer to fitting with about a quarter of the taskbar cut off.

I was under the impression that with DVI/HDMI everything would just work, and it would be less to deal with. I previously had this hooked up via VGA and when I set it to 1920x1080 everything just fit just about perfectly, no headaches. I was under the impression that doing it digitally instead would make things EASIER, not harder.

So, am I going to need to break out powerstrip and all that other stuff that wasn't necessary via VGA? Is it just that these TVs don't work at 1920x1080 through HDMI (I believe I read that they don't *officially* support it, but since it does 1080p through HDMI I figured it was a pretty natural fit)?

Bump x2
post #19777 of 21315
Hi everyone,

I love the beautiful picture on my HLS5687W. I've had it for a little over a year now and there's only been one thing that's bothered me about the picture on this tv. From multiple sources (Wii via component, DVD Player via S-Video) there seems to be a poorly calibrated "color position" setting. I'm not sure if this adjustment actually exists somewhere within the service menu or elsewhere. The adjustment I'm referring to is like the setting on the older big-screen projection tv's where you'd have to align all three colors (red, green, blue) so that the picture matches up on the screen. Mine just seems to be off so that certain colors, I think, are not matching up properly with the rest of the picture. It's most noticeable in the menus on the Wii and with animated shows (Family Guy, mainly) on the DVD player. Other sources also do it, but it's not quite AS noticeable. If anyone could give me some sort of direction in this matter, it would be greatly appreciated.


Matt
post #19778 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by rage_311 View Post

Hi everyone,

I love the beautiful picture on my HLS5687W. I've had it for a little over a year now and there's only been one thing that's bothered me about the picture on this tv. From multiple sources (Wii via component, DVD Player via S-Video) there seems to be a poorly calibrated "color position" setting. I'm not sure if this adjustment actually exists somewhere within the service menu or elsewhere. The adjustment I'm referring to is like the setting on the older big-screen projection tv's where you'd have to align all three colors (red, green, blue) so that the picture matches up on the screen. Mine just seems to be off so that certain colors, I think, are not matching up properly with the rest of the picture. It's most noticeable in the menus on the Wii and with animated shows (Family Guy, mainly) on the DVD player. Other sources also do it, but it's not quite AS noticeable. If anyone could give me some sort of direction in this matter, it would be greatly appreciated.
Matt

Consumer DLP type TVs do not have this adjustment.
SEE:http://www.dlp.com/includes/demo_flash.aspx

A question begs for an answer, why are you using S-Video with your DVD player?

Carl
post #19779 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by rage_311 View Post

...Mine just seems to be off so that certain colors, I think, are not matching up properly with the rest of the picture. It's most noticeable in the menus on the Wii and with animated shows (Family Guy, mainly) on the DVD player...

Welcome to the forum!

As calentz stated, there's no such setting with this technology.

Can you provide a picture of the problem? Is it noted on static images or moving only? Can anyone else see the problem?

Your description doesn't really sound like this but it's possible, I guess. You may be seeing rainbows (AKA "RBE") a phenomenon seen by an arguably small population where the user notices the color break-up produced by a colorwheel technology. It's less of a problem in these sets due to increased color wheel RPM's.

You may already know all this as it's a common issue with DLP's.
post #19780 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by james138 View Post

I've been digging through this thread for twenty minutes looking for some setting advice to use for PS3 and I can't really find it. When I fist set up my set I used the advice of a prof. calibartor (Eliab, I think?) that posted on here are there any posts by anyone like that who knows the best settings for using the PS3 as a blu ray player? I have a 5 month son so I don't have the luxary of researching for hours what the RGB setting and blah blah blah should be set to. So can some one point me in the right direction?

I use Eliab's setting and leave the PS3 to the defaults for BR. Since I don't have a HDMI AVR, I set the optical audio to bitstream. Some people select the Super White setting as well. You can find a lot more info on this in the BR player section in the PS3 thread. I also like to use the Game mode setting because it allows me to have a completely different set of display parameters that I can toggle to just by selecting game mode. I find that the standard Movie settings make games look a bit dark.
post #19781 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbopro View Post

I searched and searched but could not find this on the threads. If you do, please post. I am having a similar issue with many DLP owners concerning the unit random shut off. It will randomly shut off after about an hour or so. So I decided to re seat the bulb and after inspecting the bulb I ran across this.





So Does everyone else look like this? or am I the only one?

By the way, the TV is actually on as i type this, but will shut down again in about an hour, maybe less. Thanks
And sorry for the large pics.

I posted it rear projections but got no response. Thanks for any help.

Hi Turbopro,

Your lamp is normal with those 2 wires crossed over like that. I thought the same thing as you, when I was troubleshooting one of my client's tv's as it was shutting down every time after it was on like 2 min. or so (turned out to be a blown cap on the psu)

Your initial question about random shutdowns....

What led's are flashing in the front? If it's the left and right ones, then your issue might be as simple as the lamp cover safety shutoff switch in the 'up' position. It's a common problem on mostly all hlr, and hls's. If all 3 led indicators are on, then you might have a lil more deeper problem involving the cw, lamp, ballast, mainboard, and/or DMD board.

What you could initially do is to grab a flashlight shine it through the lamp cover and see if that lil blue switch is in the up position, and also check the led indicators up front.

You can pm me if you'd like as well.
post #19782 of 21315
Hello- I tried searching so sorry if this has already been answered a hundred times. I currently have the Samsung Hl-s5687w. What are some basic changes I can make in the service menu to give me a better picture? I've been in the service menu and know not to mess around with a lot of it, but I'm not even sure where to begin to improve my picture. I will be sure to keep a log of any changes I make. I am just looking for a general starting point. Any help will be appreciated!
post #19783 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by unsmart thing View Post

Hello- I tried searching so sorry if this has already been answered a hundred times. I currently have the Samsung Hl-s5687w. What are some basic changes I can make in the service menu to give me a better picture? I've been in the service menu and know not to mess around with a lot of it, but I'm not even sure where to begin to improve my picture. I will be sure to keep a log of any changes I make. I am just looking for a general starting point. Any help will be appreciated!

The single most effective change I made in my SM was changing gamma's to 0.

Since you already know how to access the SM, I won't belabor that, so here's what you need to change:

This is default: DDP3021→GAMMA [4]OEM ~ CINEMA GAMMA [5]OEM

Change it to this: GAMMA [0]FILM ~ CINEMA GAMMA [0]FILM

Here's a screen shot:

post #19784 of 21315
I've had the HLS5087W for 15 months, and now it shuts off by its self, and I get the standby/temp and timer lights blinking a few times and then it goes to standby. I believe this is an indication of a cooling fan problem. Has anyone had a cooling fan replaced and what does it cost? I have no warranty.
post #19785 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

The single most effective change I made in my SM was changing gamma's to 0.

Hey thanks a lot. I'll give this a try.
post #19786 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

The single most effective change I made in my SM was changing gamma's to 0.

Since you already know how to access the SM, I won't belabor that, so here's what you need to change:

This is default: DDP3021→GAMMA [4]OEM ~ CINEMA GAMMA [5]OEM

Change it to this: GAMMA [0]FILM ~ CINEMA GAMMA [0]FILM

Here's a screen shot:

Do you or anyone else know what this physically does to the TV?
post #19787 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by unsmart thing View Post

Hey thanks a lot. I'll give this a try.

Note: You will have to then adjust your brightness & contrast levels in the USER menu afterwards.

I'd recommend actually re-calibrating with a calibration disc once you've set the gamma's to zero.

Of course none of this is necessary if you have your set professionally calibrated, but your question was end-user related, hence my response.
post #19788 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by impala454 View Post

Do you or anyone else know what this physically does to the TV?

I've no idea. My amateur eyes simply noted a less harsh/bright picture with better black detail.
post #19789 of 21315
K, if anyone knows please post. I just like to know exactly what these settings are doing before I change them. I know with old CRTs and computer monitors messing with gamma could do some weird stuff or even cause damage. Although I think that was usually when turning the gamma up, not down.
post #19790 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by impala454 View Post

K, if anyone knows please post. I just like to know exactly what these settings are doing before I change them. I know with old CRTs and computer monitors messing with gamma could do some weird stuff or even cause damage. Although I think that was usually when turning the gamma up, not down.

Gamma is the relationship between the input signal and the amount of light output for that input signal per pixel. With Gamma 0 you should see better details in the low light portions of the image (such as shadows).
post #19791 of 21315
Thanks for the replies, everyone. First of all, I'm using S-Video for my DVD player because I'm out of component inputs (Xbox and Wii) and haven't had a chance to research which component switcher I should get, active or passive, etc... And I guess the problem is only apparent on "still images". Because it's on animated shows when that line stays in the same place, and also in the menu of the Wii when the line is staying in the same place. My wife can see this problem too, so I'm skeptical about the "rainbow" problem. Any hope? It really isn't a huge issue, but of course, I want everything PERFECT. Thanks again...
post #19792 of 21315
ok.
i went into the service menu for the fist time...scarry stuff.

i reset the gamma to zero as above. did not see much difference, but it was cool to go in and try this out.
post #19793 of 21315
Well...the TV repair shop called. Fry's wants them to try the cheaper option first. (big surprise) so they're only going to replace the Light Tunnel. Weeeeeeee.

How long before it collapses again I wonder. They're stopping by this coming tuesday. I wonder if I should set my DV cam up on a tripod and record everything they do.

SV
post #19794 of 21315
Samsung has found a solution to the light tunnel repair. Higher temp glue. I've not redone any in the last year... Hope your Fry guy has been to a Samsung training on this. He could be there a while and really screw things up if he hasn't
post #19795 of 21315
Any body know of a solution to intermittant HLS shutdown????
post #19796 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by b43k View Post

Hi Turbopro,

Your lamp is normal with those 2 wires crossed over like that. I thought the same thing as you, when I was troubleshooting one of my client's tv's as it was shutting down every time after it was on like 2 min. or so (turned out to be a blown cap on the psu)

Your initial question about random shutdowns....

What led's are flashing in the front? If it's the left and right ones, then your issue might be as simple as the lamp cover safety shutoff switch in the 'up' position. It's a common problem on mostly all hlr, and hls's. If all 3 led indicators are on, then you might have a lil more deeper problem involving the cw, lamp, ballast, mainboard, and/or DMD board.

What you could initially do is to grab a flashlight shine it through the lamp cover and see if that lil blue switch is in the up position, and also check the led indicators up front.

You can pm me if you'd like as well.

To jameswei and tvcoach:

Check out the above post that I posted yesterday.
post #19797 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by unsmart thing View Post

Hey thanks a lot. I'll give this a try.

I've seen some recent posts about Eliab's starter settings, gamma, SM adjustments in general, etc. I've done the SM thing and while doing so researched hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts. I bought some calibration discs, used them to their fullest extent, etc. etc. All told I spent ~100 hours specifically devoted to getting the best picture from my display. About three months later I decided to get my HL-S6187W calibrated by an ISF certified tech. Needless to say, the results of the calibration were far better than I could approach even with all my tweaks and time spent. In retrospect, what I should've done was get the ISF calibration and skip all the other nonsense. If all you're looking for is a few tweaks then the path you're pursuing is probably best. However, if you're serious about getting the best PQ from your Samsung DLP, there is really only one choice from where I'm sitting. Everyone has a different take on these things, but that's just my .02.
post #19798 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvcoach View Post

Any body know of a solution to intermittant HLS shutdown????

Original post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10062907

Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

…While random shutdowns could be a result of a number of nefarious catastrophic failures, many have apparently resolved the issue by doing the following: (I'm not aware of your user experience, so be advised that this is not scary stuff. It is absolutely an end-user task. You won't be doing anything more than what you'd do if you changed the lamp. Lamp changeouts are end-user tasks, and you might as well get used to this procedure as you'll likely need to replace the lamp at least once or twice in the life of the set.)
  1. Make sure TV is off.
  2. Remove the lamp cover (the small, grill panel on the back of the set).
  3. Inspect the spring-loaded safety switch to ensure it is making good contact when the panel is secured. If not, bend the switch slightly to make sure it does.
  4. While you're in here, you may want to reseat the lamp in case it's the culprit. You do this by removing the screws securing the lamp. Grasp the hinged handle on the lamp. Pull straight out. Then push it back into place firmly. Replace screws.
  5. Replace the lamp cover panel.

The switch that you manipulated is there for safety reasons. It would not be safe to remove the lamp while the TV is on. Therefore the switch is designed to kill power to the set in the event the lamp cover panel is removed. It has been hypothesized that the switch is either not installed precisely enough at the factory or become slightly dislocated during shipping.

In either case, you certainly can't do any harm by trying the aforementioned procedure. Please report back to us regarding your results.

***Follow-up: Not long after I originally posted that in March, I started having random shutdowns. I did the procedure, but while "manipulating" the safety switch, I broke the plastic tab that mounts it to the frame. Therefore I wound a rubber band around the switch to permanently keep it depressed. Then I just let the switch dangle. I've had no further problems with random shutdowns. I wish I could find a replacement part for the switch itself (it's just a one-piece into which a small cord is inserted.). That way, if I ever have to have warranty work done, the tech won't furrow his brow about my having mucked around the set. Otherwise, everything has been working fine. Just be more careful than I was about "manipulating" the switch.***
post #19799 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by haylo75 View Post

I've seen some recent posts about Eliab's starter settings, gamma, SM adjustments in general, etc. I've done the SM thing and while doing so researched hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts. I bought some calibration discs, used them to their fullest extent, etc. etc. All told I spent ~100 hours specifically devoted to getting the best picture from my display. About three months later I decided to get my HL-S6187W calibrated by an ISF certified tech. Needless to say, the results of the calibration were far better than I could approach even with all my tweaks and time spent. In retrospect, what I should've done was get the ISF calibration and skip all the other nonsense. If all you're looking for is a few tweaks then the path you're pursuing is probably best. However, if you're serious about getting the best PQ from your Samsung DLP, there is really only one choice from where I'm sitting. Everyone has a different take on these things, but that's just my .02.

I agree. ISF calibration would be ideal but money is my concern. I was hoping to get the best possible picture I could just by tweaking a few things in the service menu and using DVE. Maybe one of these days I will splurge and have it professionally calibrated.
post #19800 of 21315
Quote:
Originally Posted by haylo75 View Post

I've seen some recent posts about Eliab's starter settings, gamma, SM adjustments in general, etc. I've done the SM thing and while doing so researched hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts. I bought some calibration discs, used them to their fullest extent, etc. etc. All told I spent ~100 hours specifically devoted to getting the best picture from my display. About three months later I decided to get my HL-S6187W calibrated by an ISF certified tech. Needless to say, the results of the calibration were far better than I could approach even with all my tweaks and time spent. In retrospect, what I should've done was get the ISF calibration and skip all the other nonsense. If all you're looking for is a few tweaks then the path you're pursuing is probably best. However, if you're serious about getting the best PQ from your Samsung DLP, there is really only one choice from where I'm sitting. Everyone has a different take on these things, but that's just my .02.

I second this, 100%. As much as I love tweaking the settings on these sets, there came a point where I said to myself "I'd actually like to watch something without thinking about what could be better!!" That's when I got it calibrated, and I haven't thought about those imperfections since.
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