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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 695

post #20821 of 21315
5/10/10 at 9:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Well I finally changed out my Bulb, all I can say is WOW....I thought the brightness wasnt that low before, boy was I wrong. Looksed likea brand new TV ......Checked my hours on the old bulb 13153 and it was still going......

I replaced my Lamp January 2010 after my Light Tunnel was replaced with a new lamp in January 2007. My lamp had just over 20,458 hours so 13,153 is certainly not know record.

I learned a long time ago from some of the bright guys in this forum, that it is not as much the hours you have on the lamp that make them go bad, but the amount of times you turn your TV on and off that takes the life away from your lamp. I bought my Lamp off a guy on fleabay for the Lamp with housing for $96. The lamp was installed backwards so I e-mailed the seller the pictures of it, and he told me either he could send me another back out to me, or if I reinstalled it myself he would give me a Paypal credit discount of $10. I reinstalled it myself, so it cost me $86 for the Lamp with the Housing. By the way it was an Philips Lamp, the same one used by Samsung.
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post #20822 of 21315
5/11/10 at 8:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Satman858 View Post

I replaced my Lamp January 2010 after my Light Tunnel was replaced with a new lamp in January 2007. My lamp had just over 20,458 hours so 13,153 is certainly not know record.

I learned a long time ago from some of the bright guys in this forum, that it is not as much the hours you have on the lamp that make them go bad, but the amount of times you turn your TV on and off that takes the life away from your lamp. I bought my Lamp off a guy on fleabay for the Lamp with housing for $96. The lamp was installed backwards so I e-mailed the seller the pictures of it, and he told me either he could send me another back out to me, or if I reinstalled it myself he would give me a Paypal credit discount of $10. I reinstalled it myself, so it cost me $86 for the Lamp with the Housing. By the way it was an Philips Lamp, the same one used by Samsung.

I was just surprised that I had gotten to 13K without any issues......I know there arepeople out there with more hours then me .........I probably could have gone another 7-10K, but I had "Fight Night" at my house and wanted to have the best picture possible. If it was just us watching TV then we probably would have waited a little while at least. The funny thing is that the Fiancee said she couldnt notice that much of a difference, thats when I told her I had jacked up the Contrrast\\Brightness and right now were are running at levels half of what they are before. I kept the old lamp jsut in case this one blows up.

Much like MEJ, I dont turn the TV on\\off a lot. Once its on it stays on for extended peroids of time, then when its off it off.

I ahve to say that this has been a very reliable TV for me. I will probably wait for another year or two until I get a new one, I just dont want to give up the size of the screen, hopefully when I am ready theyll have a 3D standard in place that most companies are following. I may even stick with a DLP from Mitsubishi for the Size\\Price.
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post #20823 of 21315
5/12/10 at 8:04am
I didn't realize just how much brighter and clearer the picture was going to make my Sammy until I put the new bulb in. I did not have HD on my Sammy when I replace the Light Tunnel 3 years earlier, and the new lamp came with the Light Tunnel. I guess it was darkening more gradually each and every year as the hours were growing on the lamp.
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post #20824 of 21315
5/17/10 at 5:25pm
Hi guys! I love this forum so much info. I've searched high and low and still wondering after all of these years if it is still possible to turn off the Overscan on the 87s. I've done the service menu work, but I turn off the TV it goes back to on. I have the june 06 build. Is there firmware floating around out there that I can upgrade to? Or some other fix? Maybe a third party device. Can I call a pro and get my tv professionaly reduce the over scan? Thank guys! Yes I have read all of the solutions to try and fix it.
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post #20825 of 21315
5/17/10 at 11:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennero View Post

Hi guys! I love this forum so much info. I've searched high and low and still wondering after all of these years if it is still possible to turn off the Overscan on the 87s. I've done the service menu work, but I turn off the TV it goes back to on. I have the june 06 build. Is there firmware floating around out there that I can upgrade to? Or some other fix? Maybe a third party device. Can I call a pro and get my tv professionaly reduce the over scan? Thank guys! Yes I have read all of the solutions to try and fix it.

I love my 6187, but this is the one issue that drives me nuts. It drove me nuts on old tube TVs, and frankly the *degree* of overscan on set is way past unacceptable.

I haven't heard of a permanent fix, and I haven't done the service menu thing, since I'm a little reluctant to mess around in there. Maybe I'll have to learn.
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post #20826 of 21315
5/17/10 at 11:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennero View Post

Hi guys! I love this forum so much info. I've searched high and low and still wondering after all of these years if it is still possible to turn off the Overscan on the 87s. I've done the service menu work, but I turn off the TV it goes back to on. I have the june 06 build. Is there firmware floating around out there that I can upgrade to? Or some other fix? Maybe a third party device. Can I call a pro and get my tv professionaly reduce the over scan? Thank guys! Yes I have read all of the solutions to try and fix it.

I dont beleive there was ever a premanent "fix" for the overscan and the 87s...The 88s are the only ones of my knowledge that can permanently turn off overscan.
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post #20827 of 21315
5/18/10 at 12:05am
I have been checking this forum for the code for the service menu for my HLS5687 and have not found it so far. Search wasn't that useful. Any of you guys able to help me out?
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post #20828 of 21315
5/18/10 at 3:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thies Windu View Post

I have been checking this forum for the code for the service menu for my HLS5687 and have not found it so far. Search wasn't that useful. Any of you guys able to help me out?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17841886

Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Here you go:

Note entering Service Menu is harmless. Changing the wrong thing can be catastrophic. Therefore, if you don't know what a setting does, do not adjust it.

Prior to entering the Service Menu, note your user settings (brightness, contrast, tint, etc.) for each input as they will placed at default settings by entering the Service Menu.

To enter Service Menu: With TV in the off state, enter the following string on the factory remote control:

MUTE → 1 → 8 → 2 → POWER (You have to enter this sequence rather quickly. Some people have had to try it a couple times to get it to take, but that's not a problem)


To navigate and change values:

↕ to scroll up and down through menus

↔ or SELECT to enter sub-menus

↔ change values within sub-menus

MENU to back out of sub-menus

SOURCE to switch between inputs

POWER to save and exit

wait at least 30 seconds before powering back up

you will need to restore user settings for each input
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post #20829 of 21315
5/18/10 at 6:16am
Thanks for all of the responses! I think I'm just going to call the tech and see if they can decrease my overscan about 2-3% which this tv is all it really needs. Then it would be fine.
It looks like that the TV picture can not be made smaller. Anyone know if a universal learning remote will work? Like go into service menu and then turn of overscan then turn the tv off then on?
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post #20830 of 21315
5/19/10 at 9:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennero View Post

Thanks for all of the responses! I think I'm just going to call the tech and see if they can decrease my overscan about 2-3% which this tv is all it really needs. Then it would be fine.
It looks like that the TV picture can not be made smaller. Anyone know if a universal learning remote will work? Like go into service menu and then turn of overscan then turn the tv off then on?

If you look earlier in the thread, there were a few members that have done this ...
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post #20831 of 21315
5/20/10 at 7:53am
Does anyone know of a way to disable the front panel power button? Either via the service menu or instructions on physically disconnecting the switch? We're having a difficult time keeping our 15 month old son away from the button.
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post #20832 of 21315
5/20/10 at 1:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

If you look earlier in the thread, there were a few members that have done this ...

Can you point me in the right direction?
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post #20833 of 21315
5/20/10 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennero View Post

Can you point me in the right direction?

This should help start at the earliest posts (page 5) and search forward...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/searc...0&pp=30&page=5
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post #20834 of 21315
5/27/10 at 4:26am
Great discussion guys. Found some really good help on here. Im struggling with software which will produce serial number labels. If anyone has any more input on this, it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks
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post #20835 of 21315
5/29/10 at 6:57am
Question for folks.... Does anyone know anywhere where someone could pick up a HLS5087W used?
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post #20836 of 21315
5/29/10 at 9:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bicker1 View Post

Question for folks.... Does anyone know anywhere where someone could pick up a HLS5087W used?

Any particular reason for wanting to do so? There are better DLP models on the market.
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post #20837 of 21315
5/29/10 at 9:07pm
I'll have my 6187 available at some point this year.
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post #20838 of 21315
5/30/10 at 2:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckZ View Post

Any particular reason for wanting to do so?

I'm trying to get a feel for whether and where I'd want to sell mine.
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post #20839 of 21315
6/2/10 at 9:26am
Check the power button on the front of the set.
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post #20840 of 21315
6/6/10 at 6:57pm
4 yr old HSL5687W - recently I have noticed I am losing part of the picture on the right hand edge of the display. Imagine a black triangle with the point at the bottom right hand-corner of the screen, and the base at the top right hand corner of the screen, with a width of about 2 inches - this triangle from bottom to top is opaque (I say "opague" as opposed to black as you can still see some picture detail in it, but it's very dark, and there might as well be no picture at all). Seems like something is out of whack with the projection geometry. Is this something that can be corrected via the x:y positioning in the service menu (and if so, what are the steps to get into the SM and do that)? or is it something physical that need servicing/replacing or whatever?

Tia,
-Keith
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post #20841 of 21315
6/6/10 at 8:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by keitheva View Post

4 yr old HSL5687W - recently I have noticed I am losing part of the picture on the right hand edge of the display. Imagine a black triangle with the point at the bottom right hand-corner of the screen, and the base at the top right hand corner of the screen, with a width of about 2 inches - this triangle from bottom to top is opaque (I say "opague" as opposed to black as you can still see some picture detail in it, but it's very dark, and there might as well be no picture at all). Seems like something is out of whack with the projection geometry. Is this something that can be corrected via the x:y positioning in the service menu (and if so, what are the steps to get into the SM and do that)? or is it something physical that need servicing/replacing or whatever?
Tia,
-Keith

Those symptoms are classic for the collapsing light tunnel issue.
You can google it, or check this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1069050
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post #20842 of 21315
6/7/10 at 10:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slogun View Post

Those symptoms are classic for the collapsing light tunnel issue.
You can google it, or check this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1069050

Thank you! That is the problem, and I have arranged with Samsung for the repair.
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post #20843 of 21315
6/8/10 at 1:12am
Thinking about selling my 6187, how much does it worth?
I bought a 5 years warranty and still have 2 left and i change the bulb few month ago.
Im thinking about $800, is that too much?
I search for used 6187 but no luck.
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post #20844 of 21315
6/8/10 at 1:57am
I searched for a while for a price-comp for my 5087; it was less than half what you are considering for your 6187. Our decision as a result was to find a good home for it, rather than try to sell it. You may wish to consider the same.
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post #20845 of 21315
6/8/10 at 6:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by keitheva View Post

Thank you! That is the problem, and I have arranged with Samsung for the repair.

Glad to help.
Had the light tunnel replaced on my 6188 probably 2 or more years ago and have had no difficulties with the TV since. Enjoying it every day.
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post #20846 of 21315
6/9/10 at 8:01pm
I have a problem with my HLS-6187W and the image of the TV, I asked about the problem and some of you suggested I replace the lamp, that was 1 year ago, and the problem disappeared , until last week =S, the image starts flickering with a fluorescent light after I watch my T.V for 90 minutes like this:





that problem is solved with a lamp replace BUT, this last lamp only has 945 hours , the quality of the image when the TV is not flickering is stunnig, thats the first problem.

The second problem of my TV is that after the TV is power on for some time (30-180+ min.) I turn off the TV and I need to wait for a long time before I can turn the TV on again (like 90 min. ). If I try to turn on the TV before the 90 min. the TV starts to make a beeping noise like this:



and the lamp won't start up, I read all this tread =S, and I found this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskool75 View Post

What flickers? The screen? Something else? Is there a sound, or just visual?

When our set was a month old, it sporadically had power relay issues on power up... First, it only happened on cold startup, then even warm startup (sort of sounds like your issue?)...

It sounded like rapid-clicking of a relay (rapid like a machine gun), and wouldn't power up. Samsung had the power unit replaced under warranty, citing it was a rare, but known issue.

Not sure if you have the same problem or not though...

I found the piece that oldskool75 is mentioning:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/SAM...-p/1177777.htm

now the question is… does someone know if by replacing that part, my two problems will be solved?

Salu2

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post #20847 of 21315
6/10/10 at 3:53am
@ Black l Dragon: I'm not a professional, but I suspect the flickering is a result of a failing ballast which is thereby shortening the life of your lamp. A new lamp will seem to temporarily resolve the issue because a ballast with decreased output can more easily fire up a new lamp than one that has aged.

As to why your ballast is failing...sometimes components just fail. Just like the ballast on a fluorescent lamp eventually fails. A ballast can easily be replaced for about $80. Here's a guide: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/lampguides...33A_guide.html

I've never seen one of these sets behave the way yours is with regard to the beeping and refusal to start up. The power supply is a possible culprit.

It could be that the power supply started to fail and then damaged the ballast (or vice versa), then lamp life was shortened.

All of this is conjecture, however. Someone on here can tell you how to test the voltages for each of these components to confirm the problematic part(s).

If you go the "trial and error" route, replace the ballast (& lamp) first to see if that resolves your issue permanently.

Let us know how it turns out.
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post #20848 of 21315
6/10/10 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

@ Black l Dragon: I'm not a professional, but I suspect the flickering is a result of a failing ballast which is thereby shortening the life of your lamp. A new lamp will seem to temporarily resolve the issue because a ballast with decreased output can more easily fire up a new lamp than one that has aged.

As to why your ballast is failing...sometimes components just fail. Just like the ballast on a fluorescent lamp eventually fails. A ballast can easily be replaced for about $80. Here's a guide: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/lampguides...33A_guide.html

I've never seen one of these sets behave the way yours is with regard to the beeping and refusal to start up. The power supply is a possible culprit.

It could be that the power supply started to fail and then damaged the ballast (or vice versa), then lamp life was shortened.

All of this is conjecture, however. Someone on here can tell you how to test the voltages for each of these components to confirm the problematic part(s).

If you go the "trial and error" route, replace the ballast (& lamp) first to see if that resolves your issue permanently.

Let us know how it turns out.


Thanks for your answer 120inna55, I changed the ballast 5 days ago and the problems are still there , the power suply is my last hope, and its very strange that I'm the only one with the refusal start up, I will post here the result of my power suply replace, wish me luck .


Salu2
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post #20849 of 21315
6/10/10 at 12:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black l Dragon View Post

...its very strange that I'm the only one with the refusal start up...

Actually, refusing to start-up is not an unusual thing. It's certainly non-diagnostic as the set may fail to start up many reasons. The unusual part is that strange beeping.
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post #20850 of 21315
6/19/10 at 4:47am
I received via email a 12 page notice of settlement of a class action suit against Samsung about The Shadow Effect. Basically, if you have the shadow effect, Samsung will repair your TV, replacing the light tunnel. If you already paid to have this done, they will reimburse you.

More info is here: http://www.samsung.com/us/dlptvsettlement/

Frank
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