Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 704

I recently "inherited" an HL-S6187W and while trying to set up the video calibration I noticed that a few of the video options are grayed out and unavailable. These would be the "Film Mode" and "Tint". I've tried using every different picture mode but still no luck. The TV is connected via HDMI to my STB.

When I switch sources the options seem to be there. For exmple, when I go to TV I can adjust tint levels and toggle film mode. When I go back to HDMI 1 these settings are unavailable for changing..Any suggestions?

I have an HLS5087WX and am on my third bulb which is fairly new. I am gettng an intermittent buzzing sound from inside the TV. If I bump or move the TV a little it stops. I am thinking fan noise but not sure it couldnt be a ballast humming. The fact that it stops when you bump the set or comes and goes leads me more to fan noise.

Anyone else with similar experience or advice? How difficult is it to replace the fan?

I had a similar experience a few years ago. And while I would not rule out the fan, in my case it was the ballast.

I finally got the 3 blinking lights shutdown.

Ordered a bulb from Amazon, tried to install it but it did not fit the housing.

So I re-installed the old bulb and it still works.

I see in the service manual it has 16899 hours on it and is Philips brand.

I've ordered from another vendor, but am wondering if I might damage the set by extending the life of this original bulb by a week or so?

No, that won't hurt the set.

Thanks.

So, I entered the service menu to check my bulb life & reset it as I installed a new Philips lamp...

By entering the service menu, have I (unintentionally) reset all of the custom picture settings that I paid the calibration tech to fine tune when I first got the set???

Entering the service menu causes all the user mode settings to reset... so you will have to reset contrast and brightness. All the detailed calibrations done in the service menu will be preserved.

Nothing's lost. As scsiraid said, your pro-calibration is preserved. Entering the service menu puts all inputs to the "Dynamic" preset, too.

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think pro calibrators modify the defaults of one of the presets such that when it is "reset", it is exactly where it should be. In other words, I think one of your presets (custom, movie, standard, etc.) will be "correct" at its default settings. So, before you worry much with adjusting the contrast and brightness, try cycling through the presets and see if you find your old trusty calibrated image.

You could always ask the calibrator. I'm sure he/she would be willing to impart that little bit of information without charging.

Yup... Eliab set mine so all 4 'modes' and all the color tones were exactly the same. All I have to do is reset brightness, contrast. ;>)

Thanks, guys ... I thought that picture was a little "hot".

Dynamic is 100% contrast, so I'm sure that's not it...

Custom & Standard are same at 80 contrast & 50 for the rest

Movie looks too warm at Warm2 and still at 70% contrast

The guy who calibrated it was an AVS member from Houston ... he traveled all over to do calibrations. I don't recall his name or username, though.

The act of entering and exiting the SM will reset user level settings in all modes to their defaults. Test by changing just one item, enter the SM and then exit and check the same setting. Happens for me every time. For clarification, I'm not talking about a factory reset, just going into the SM and exiting properly (e.g. 'Aging' appears in red on-screen for a short time).

Because of this, some calibrators will attempt to calibrate your set so that minimal to no changes will need to be made should you enter the SM.

Without changing the settings on the TV, the picture has gotten a lot less bright. Is this a sign that the bulb is on its last legs?

I got the TV in Jan 2007 and haven't replaced the bulb yet.

Yes. Without question.


It's time. When you take the 8 minutes or less to replace the lamp, you'll wonder why you'd waited so long. Initially the picture will be too bright. Give it about 50 hours to settle down. It'll be like a brand new set.

If you've browsed this thread at all, I assume you know you are better off getting the OEM lamp. I recommend purchasing the entire lamp enclosure as opposed to wiring in a new lamp into the old shroud.

While there are lots of places to go, I've always had good experiences with samsungparts.com.

Yup! As 120inna55 said its time to replace. You will be happy with the results. Just don't wait too long (as in get a replacement NOW!). I waited and was without TV until the new one arrived.

Guys, im getting the random shutdowns. It started ALOT more frequently after I replaced my bulb. Its random and I get no flashing lites. I re-seated the bulb housing/door and did a complete dusting and it still does it. Ive noticed that sometimes I get this buzzing noise before or after it shuts down (forget when it happens) Am I looking at more drastic measures for fixing this thing of should I solder the lamp door switch wires together? Thanks!

There is a safety switch that starts giving trouble after the bulb is switched out. It is held in place by the door when screwed down. Rubber band the switch down and the ramdom shutoff should stop. It's there to make sure you dont turn it om with the door off.

awesome! ill do that now, thanks TODDAVS!

I've noticed that when I hook up my direc tv box or dvd player via component instead of hdmi the tv volume is much much lower. I have to put the tv volume at max just to be able to hear it. I currently have the apple tv and directv hooked up by hdmi so i had to hook up dvd by component. Any suggestions as to what may be wrong. Could the a/v jacks in the tv be going bad ?? Is that even possible ?? I even tried customizing the sound settings from the tv itself to no avail.

Ive had this set for about 6 years. Calibrated by eliab when new. First bulb lasted 5 years. Bulb was replaced under extended warranty with oem bulb. This one never seemed as bright and the last 6 months or so the contrast has to be all the way up just to see the picture in a darkish room. Are thers any settings in the service menu that will help this or do I need a new bulb? I'm a little apprehensive about buying another bulb for a 6 year old tv, tbo it has been flawless other than this issue. This is now the tv the kids use in the family room. If i replace it I will get the mitsubishi 60 for around $800 so no real upgrade.
Thanks in advance.

As you've already indicated, your gut told you something wasn't right from the get go.



A good indicator the bulb is nearing the end of its life.


Not without trashing your calibration. I strongly discourage it, but changing the gamma may get you closer to what you're looking for. Again, I wouldn't mess with it.


Depends on how important picture quality is to you. I always keep a spare lamp. Life's too short for poor picture quality.

Thanks for the reply. I guess what i'm asking is beford i buy another bjlb is there something else that could be at fault? I have no problem with buying another bulb to get a bit more quality life out this great tv.

Order the Philips lamp from Samsungparts.com.

As a new person to this forum I have an issue with HLS-5687. I have no sound from my right speaker. I was able to open the unit up and take out the speaker to test it to see if it was blown and it was not. Has anyone had similar problem and heard of the sound card being bad. The tv is 4 years old and still works fantastic. Any help would be great.

Ordered and installed new bulb. No change. Any thoughts? What does the "light engine" do and does this set have one?

Still dim after a new lamp? Odd. If you're certain no one's entered the service menu since eliab's calibration and mucked with the gamma, then I'm stymied.

I would think ballast or light engine issues would result in intermittent firing of the lamp or flickering, but haven't heard of either one causing consistent "dim" images.

I'd also be hesitant to spend any more money on this aging set without having a service shop doing it. A spare lamp isn't a waste because it's an expendable product that you'll eventually need for the set, but an unneeded spare ballast, etc., is a waste of money.

I was originally debating between a new bulb or picking up the mitsubishi 60". It periodically goes on sale for $600-700. I would rather do that than put more $ into this one. Mainly use for the kids these days. $150 for bulb would have gone towards that. Knew it was a gamble.
Is there any chance a mirror could have been knocked out of alignment with installation of one of the bulbs?

There's only one lamp. No, it's unlikely you knocked anything around just replacing the lamp.

Of course, the light tunnel could have collapsed, but I think you'd be experiencing more than just "dim". It's generally a dark shadow that does not fully encompass the whole screen.

It's essentially debating in a vacuum. If the lamp didn't resolve the issue, then there's really no sense in pouring more money into the set unless you take it to a shop.

I'm sorry if I mislead you into purchasing a new lamp. 99% of the time, a dim picture is a failing lamp and is an expected maintenance procedure for lamp-based DLPs (just like having to replace a bulb in a light fixture).

Well like i said, I knew it was a gamble. It bugs me cause other than brightness the picture is fine.
Its been a few years since i was proficient with the service menu and settings. Care to recap procedure for adjusting gamma?
Thanks again.

Note entering Service Menu is harmless. Changing the wrong thing can be catastrophic. Therefore, if you don't know what a setting does, do not adjust it.

Prior to entering the Service Menu, note your user settings (brightness, contrast, tint, etc.) for each input as they will placed at default settings by entering the Service Menu.

To enter Service Menu: With TV in the off state, enter the following string on the factory remote control:

MUTE → 1 → 8 → 2 → POWER (You have to enter this sequence rather quickly. Some people have had to try it a couple times to get it to take, but that's not a problem)


To navigate and change values:

↕ to scroll up and down through menus

↔ or SELECT to enter sub-menus

↔ change values within sub-menus

MENU to back out of sub-menus

SOURCE to switch between inputs

POWER to save and exit

wait at least 30 seconds before powering back up

you will need to restore user settings for each input


To adjust gamma:

SM → DDP3021→ GAMMA / CINEMA GAMMA

Here's the DDP3021 screen:

I noticed "lamp boost" listed. Could it be that easy?