Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 705

I've no idea. I've never messed with that setting. I suppose it couldn't hurt to try.

EDIT: After reading this, I don't think lamp boost will make a difference: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...18#post9897118

I recently replaced my lamp only, using the original ballast, about a month ago and everything was fine after i replaced it. Now the unit will not turn on and it has this fast beep that Black | Dragon had in his video below.

I did not see an update from Black | Dragon as to what this beeping was or how to fix it. Does anyone know what this might be?

Hi theho, I have tried:

1. Change ballast
   
2. Change Power Supply
   
3. Change Digital Video Board

none of them solve the problem =(.

I change my lamp every year (less than 1000 hours of use) and I have to wait 2 hours for power on the tv after every power off =(.

Please if you find the solution let me know.


Saludos

you should be using the VGA to connect a PC to this tv. once you do that, use the "P. Size" button on the controller to make the image fit the screen. it is not recommended that you use HDMI for PC connection just for this reason.

I have a HLS5087WX that I have replaced the Lamp and Ballast on with orginal Samsung parts. After turning on the TV there is no display but still sound. After about 30 seconds it shuts off with the 3 light blinking indicator.

When turning on the TV there is a click sound like the Ballast is fireing up, and I can take the back panel off, hold down the switch and turn it on and see the lamp is lit up.

What else would cause this. I doubt the color wheel would be at fault (figured i'd see a imgage just poor color etc). Would the DMD PCB be at fault? Past the lamp and color wheel i'm a little 'fuzzy' on how it all works

I have a HL-S5687W that I'm having HDMI problems with. I have two sources, an XBox 360 Elite and a Panasonic DMP-BD60 blu-ray player. Both sources are connected via HDMI through an Onkyo TX-SR605 receiver. When I power on the devices, I have problems getting them to handshake. With the XBox, it usually takes over a minute before the picture comes up. With the blu-ray, it sometimes just gives me a UT3 error. With that I have to unplug power to all three devices and the it will handshake. Is this common with these sets?

You will want to connect the BR and Xbox directly bypassing the AVR to make sure that it's not the AVR causing the issue. If you find no issues with direct connect you may have to troubleshoot with your AVR.

Hey guys, I'm moving and have a HLS5087W which I want to sale locally instead of lugging it across country. Excellent condition, 6 month old bulb, bought at the end of 2006. What is a good asking price? Thanks!

I'm thinking $400.

Honestly? I wouldn't expect to get more than 5-600 if that. DLP TVs are not in demand right now. I'd take a look on eBay/craigslist just to see what they are selling for. I could be wrong though.

Lamp time again? *sigh*

My 2nd and 3rd bulbs died in the same way. Turn on TV but no whirr of fans spinning up. TV plays fine for 3minutes then shuts down with 3 lights blinking. Insert spare, TV seems fine again, shop for new bulb.

I did notice that a while after installing the 3rd bulb there wasn't enough green. I boosted it a bit in My Color Control and it was better but not quite right. After 9 months on that bulb, I started noticing a subtle flickering. It would flicker for a minute or two every other day. A month later and it shuts itself down with 3 lights on. Restart and it plays for the 3 minutes, then shuts down. When I installed the spare I noticed too much green. I hit the reset in My Color Control and the TV displayed like it did after it was calibrated.

That 3rd bulb was a "genuine Philips" but I bought the bulb only, no housing. It came in a plastic bag with no stickers and no serial number and only lasted 10 months, my shortest-lived bulb yet by quite a bit.

I'm wondering two things. Did I get a genuine Philips and does the flickering indicate it's ballast time too?

Thanks,
Unk

That's a good assumption.

Just preemptively replaced my bulb. I dont play in the SM so I cant tell you the hours, but I got the set in 2007 (one of the last manufactured...from the Fry's debacle), and it has seen what I would consider average use. The one rule is that I never "short cycled" the TV. If it went on...it stayed on for a while...and when it went off...it stayed that way. No rapid power cycles.


Replaced with a OEM Phillips and it looks great.

I still love the picture on this TV...

I agree. There are newer (better?) technologies out there now, but my set still looks great to me.

I'm about 2000 hours into my second bulb (Phillips OEM), and I still love the picture quality this set provides after ISF calibration. I have friends with newer sets, mostly LCD. While they perhaps have more "pop", I enjoy the filmlike experience of my HL-S series.

Anyone know the average life of a ballast on these sets?

I have a four year old HL-S5087 that has had a great picture up to a few months ago when the TV started turning itself off and the red and green bulbs would flash in the front. It was still under a warranty that included one replacement bulb, so the warranty company sent a new one. This solved the turning off problem, but the picture was way too dark even using the same settings I had before.

I then had a tech come out and take a look. He said I could have been sent some after market type bulb by the warranty company. He sold me another bulb that he claims is a certified one, made some adjustments and the picture looked better, but no where near what it was before.

I also tried readjusting the settings that i was given by another board member here back in '06. The set at first would give me headaches because the picture was extremely bright right out of the box. His settings involved going into SM and closing down the iris. This originally worked great, but now the picture is still way too dark even with the new bulb(s). I lose a lot of detail in the darker areas of the picture.

Any ideas short of getting the set professionally calibrated? I'm worried that the set may have other issues than the bulb that may cause this. Maybe I messed up something in SM...but I don't think so...

I just replaced the bulb on HLS5687W and have problem with shutting off after 10 seconds. I get a picture but soon as i do, it goes off and the standby light blinks. Can the light engine cause this shutdown?

Its most likely the sensor switch in.the back. This happens when it is not depressed correctly and sometimes happens when you replace the bulb.

I had my HLS5687 for 5 years up until this past spring, then I gave it to my brother. This was a great tv, and other than the light tunnel issue ( which Samsung eventually paid for ), I never had a problem. I calibrated the set myself, but always had the contrast setting at modest levels. My first lamp was replaced last January with a philips lamp without balast. The original was still fine, but after such long life, I did a preventative replace ( kept old as a spare ). The new lamp is still going strong with my brother. I also had my tv plugged into a battery backup for 90% of the time I owned the set, so maybe that help with lamp life, as well I never would switch the tv on and off quickly.

Just posting to let you guys know. I bought my hls-5687 in nov 2007, and just changed the bulb at 18700 hours.. Yes your reading that right, although the bulb could have been replaced about 5000 hours ago it never burned out just could bairly see the tv anymore.. Love my HLS

Havent gone in the service menu to see log hours but I am still on my original lamp, and my HLS5088 is still bright as the sun.

Yeah, you might want to tape it down to secure the switch in place. I remember going to a lot of calls that had this problem

I will say I loved my Samsung set for the 5yrs I've owned it, had the bulb replaced once 7 months ago, just unfortunately ran out of my extended warranty in Sep. The problem is when the inside gets dirty, meaning the lens and reflector mirror. In the last few months, I've been noticing a glare of white surrounding bright images which bleed into the black. Strange is I probably noticed some of it as soon as my new bulb was replaced, but as I write i question myself "Why didn't I complain about this to PC Richards before the end of my warranty?" Geez.. well I know I've been busy, but I think I thought for some reason I had more time. I believe this image problem is from the dust that has collection onto the lens and mirror in the last 5yrs, but the problem? NO easy access on cleaning it. Why is this? Why did't this become a thought before or during the late 5yrs of owning this otherwise great set? I've searched all over for some kind of step by step on preceding on cleaning this set, but nada. It really is bugging the hell out of me when I watching anything.. alot of times in 2:35 movies especially it almost looks as if the picture is lost in a haze. When credits roll on top of a black background you see a halo around the text. Does anyone know of any help? I want that great picture back.

Hi All, I having the following issue.

About three months ago my lamp started dimming and finally tv shut down with three led lights blinking. I have the 5687W. After replacing the lamp, tv worked fine, I guess, until recently when the tv starting shutting down. So I got another lamp (lamp was under warranty). Even with new lamp, tv would not stay on any longer than five minutes, usually less. Next I replaced the ballast. TV worked fine for about five days but noticed some banding or solarization or best description is "false-contouring". Anyway, now I'm back to TV shutting down. Thinking isn't not the lamp or ballast now. I losing my mind with this TV. Don't want to junk it but professional tech coming to repair it is probably not cost-effective.

1st replaced lamp lasted three months
One lamp ballast replaced (worked for five days)


Has anyone had similar issues?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

My Samaung Dlp has begun to have the colors become distorted. It starts out fine but will after a couple of minutes change hues and just generally have the color all out of whack. If I leave it on longer it seems that eventually the color will come back and be normal. I'm guessing it's the color wheel but am hoping to possibly get confirmation that this is the issue before I spend the money to replace it. There are no other issues with the tv. It doesn't shut off or anything. Just keeps plugging along.

It's the Sam's club version of the HLS Dlp's. I love this tv and definitely want to keep it running. Have a backup lamp that I'm going to put in when I get back home this weekend. I don't believe this will solve the issue but we shall see

Thanks for any help.

Hi guys,

I've had my HL-S5687 for a few years, now, and never had any issues with it, until two days ago. I turned it on, same as always and everything looked fine. After a minute, or so, the picture went out (but I still had the sound). Didn't think much of it, as I occassionally bump the remote and accidentally switch the inputs. I looked at the remote, everything seemed fine. So, I turned the tv back on, everything came up, but again, after a minute or so, picture turned off, again. Then I noticed the 3 LEDs were blinking. Quick read through the manual says it's indicative of a lamp failure.

So, I pull the plug, open the rear, pull the lamp, re-seat it, close it back up, plug it back in, turn it back on, everything looks ok. Minute later, picture goes out, again. Turn it on, jump into the factory menu, check the lamps hours (10,400), picture goes out, again. Turn it back on, go into the factory menu, clear the lamp hour counter, picture goes again. I unplug it, let it sit a few minutes, turn it back on, everything is good - you guessed it, a minute later, the picture goes out.

So I guess my big question is, if the lamp still works for that one minute, and the lamp is past it's theoretical lifespan (5000 - 8000 operational hours), and far as the TV is concerned, it has a new bulb with zero hours (once I pulled the assembly and reset the counter, the tv shouldn't know whether or not the bulb is old or new), why does it still turn off and show a lamp issue?

Considering I don't hear any strange pops, fizzles, or crackles and I'm not seeing any rapid flickering, I'm assuming my ballast is still good. I don't have any color distortion or dark bands, so the color wheel and light tunnel are still good. The lamp still comes on and has a pretty damn good picture, so the bulb is still good. Since I'm well over the theoretical operational life of the bulb, it's not an automated "service reminder" lamp, like in some cars.

So, if all those pieces are doing fine, what is it that trips those lights and refuses to let the tv work normally, if it thinks I have a new bulb? Is there something in the lamp housing, itself, that can be bad? I've placed an order for a new OEM bulb and housing from apexlamps.com. It's not due to arrive until the middle of the week. Any information I can gather before hand will only cut back on any surprises.

I look forward to hearing any theories anyone might have, regarding this issue.

Thanks,
Fred

This maybe a vey cheap fix. Often the switch on the access portal no longer seats right. The TV is hotter with the new lamp and now the safety switch turns off the TV when it gets warm enough. TV cools down, switch disengages and TV is off again.

Tape the switch and see if the problem goes away.

Hi All,

Two days ago, my HL-S5087W started to hum really loudly. The humming starts immediately once the unit is turned on and stops about three seconds after the unit is powered off. The picture quality looks the same as before the loud hum began. My current bulb has 1630 hours on it. I will be attempting the repair myself so I was looking for help determining what is likely the problem before I order a part off samsungparts.com

Lamp?
Ballast?
Color Wheel?
Fan?
Something else?

Thank you in advance for any help trying to figure out which one is the culprit.

I'm guessing color wheel or fan.