Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 707

When you said you were "too cheap to spend money on taking it to the shop", I took what you said literally. However, I get the sense you are more than willing to spend a bit of money and time on the TV, knowing full well you may spend more on unnecessary parts without the safety net of a certified repairman. Additionally, I gather it is more of a matter of principle or perhaps you want to take it on as a hobby or a sense of accomplishment. If that is what you really want to do, then you are not "cheap", because short of a couple straightforward general maintenance repairs, trying to repair this set through trial-and-error will not be "cheap".

The couple of maintenance issues to which I was referring are with regard to the lamp and ballast. A good ballast will have trouble firing an aging lamp. Once the lamp is lit, the picture may very well look good. By contrast a failing lamp will have trouble firing up even a new lamp. Additionally, a failing ballast will shorten the lifespan of a good lamp. If the lamp fails to fire altogether, the TV will attempt 3 times to restart. At this point, I'm not sure if you would still get sound without a picture as you are experiencing. Temporary sound, maybe, but I don't believe the TV will continue to run when I doesn't detect the lamp having fired---unless it is a video board failure. So, if you are getting sound with no video for an indefinite amount of time, I would be highly suspicious of a failing video board.

Otherwise, I would do the following:

1. Reset the TV: Unplug it--> Hold down power button for 30 sec. -->Plug it back in.
2. Replace the lamp with a new OEM lamp.
3. Ensure the blue safety switch on the lamp door is secure such that it is in the down position when the door is closed. I would just tape it down to make sure.
4. If still no joy, I would replace the ballast. (a simple procedure and the ballast can probably be had for less than $80).

After doing the aforementioned, I would spend no more money on this TV without taking it to a repair shop. At this point, you've essentially done some general maintenance on parts that are likely reaching their end of life anyway.

A failing ballast can shorten the life of an otherwise healthy lamp. While the most common symptom of a bad ballast is a loud repetitive clicking upon start-up, many times a bad ballast doesn't give you any signs. Did you ever notice any flickering? Replacing the ballast is simple, and given the age of these sets, it stands to reason the ballasts are nearing their end of life.

There's no question you need a new lamp, but you may get more life out of the next one if you replace the ballast first. Here's a guide: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/lampguides...33A_guide.html

Here's the part: http://www.samsungparts.com/Products...=HLS6187WX/XAA

I do remember it flashing on a couple occasions with the original bulb but not very often. Not once did it do it on the replacement bulb. I will definitely consider replacing the ballast this time. For now, the oem bulb is working fine. Very dim but not much of an issue in my darkish room. With the blinds wide open though it can be a problem.

Thanks for the pics Evil-Rage. Nice setup!

I will say wow that thing is shiny! I know you said it wasn't that bad in person. We shall see.
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Thank you for your response, 120inna55. Sorry I confused you here. Yes...I like to fix things--exactly as you described it--as a hobby. I have no problem taking it to a repair shop after I give up on it. Granted I like to fix things, electronics especially, I really do not know too much about it. I guess that is what makes it so interesting because I am learning something new as I go along.

You have given me some good advise on your response. Thank you. My DLP does not have a lamp. It has an LCD light source. I think there is a ballast though. I will take a look and keep everybody posted here on my progress...even when I decide to take it in the shop to get it repaired by a professional, I will let you know what they find. Thanks again, 120inna55.

You posted in the wrong forum, then.

You have hl-t5687sx/xaa.

This forum is for HLSxx87/HLSxx88W models.

I highly recommend you go to the HLT forums and re-post your question. Disregard everything I told you.

Sadly, my HLS5687 has started to show the dreaded "white dots." The first was 3 weeks ago and I'm up to 4 now. Looking around, this seems to be well described on other similar DLP's but only a few with this one. Does anyone know the part that needs to be replaced? Has anyone gotten Samsung to replace it recently? I mean I bought this in '06 and other than the light tunnel collapse it's been a solid set. Samsung of course wants me to pay for a service appointment but it seems pretty clear what to replace. Just want to make sure I get the right one. Any ideas?

Hi,

the picture displayed on my HL-S5087W is slighly cropped, missing the edges, like a small amount of zoom function is applied. This has been bothering me for some time and I am finally digging into the issue.

I notice it mostly on title bars or captions. This affects content sent over HDMI. It does not seem to affect the image from the built in tunner (OTA).

I have a PS3 and an Oppo DVD player (DV-981HD) connected to an Onkyo TX-SR606 receiver. I tried connecting the PS3 and DVD player directly to the TV, with the same result.

The Oppo DVD player has a zoom function (in/out). When zooming out, one can clearly see the whole image, and confirm that under 1/1 zoom ratio the outer portion of the image is croped out.
This similarly affects the PS3 display.

I could not find in the TV setup any option to address this. Is there any hidden menu or calibration option to correct the problem?

Thank you,
Remy

There has been a discussion about getting into the non-consumer service menu (basically the BIOS of the TV) to shut off overscan on the HDMI inputs for 1:1 pixel mapping (sans the natural over shoot of the projected image, of course, which cannot be fixed).

However, there's been a problem noted with the fact that the TV may not hold those settings once you've changed and saved them. It would have taken a firmware update.

You also must be very careful that you don't futz up anything else while you're in this menu. Just search this thread for the steps.

The 5087 will not hold the change to the overscan setting in the service menu; the 5088 does...

If the TV doesn't hold the change, this will be of little benefit.

Just out of curiosity, is this common (zooming in) to all 5087s? Is it common practice for other TV brand/models? Does it affect rear projection sets more than any others?

Thanks,
Remy

It's called overscan. An unnecessary, antiquated, process for flat panel, digital sets. Later models give you control over this. And as previously stated, the xx88 model's software allows the setting to stick, the xx87 models do not.

Hello--

I have a HL-S5687W that I purchased in 2007. It has performed very well with no problems. Two months ago, i decided to replace the lamp because i was reading so many reviews on Amazon stating that the new lamp almost transforms it into a "new" TV. I was happy with the TV a few months ago, but being almost 5 years in I decided to replace it.

After replacing the lamp (Philips BP96-01472A OEM, new), I did notice the picture is a bit brighter, so I was happy. The funny thing is I am noticing a faint strobing/flicker effect on non-HD content or upconverted SD content.

For example, I watch Jim Rome on ESPN 2 HD. That is an upconverted SD program and the picture seems to strobe when I watch it. This also happens on various SD channels.

I also tried to watch HBO GO ported from my HDMI output on my computer. This used to play out fine and look great, but now it has this pulsating strobing/flicker effect.

HD channels playing HD content look great--no strobing whatsoever, and the picture looks great. Blu-Ray also looks excellent.

Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing non-HD content to strobe/flicker.

Is this a ballast problem? It's almost as if the new lamp triggered a problem that was definitely not there before/--

Classic early ballast failure. Just like a fluorescent lamp, it may settle down as the lamp ages.

First, re-seat the lamp. Just pull it out and slide it back in firmly. (Make sure the blue safety switch is fully depressed in the down position---taping it down is a good idea. The only reason I address this here is because it is common for folks to miss this crucial switch, however, it has nothing to do with your strobing symptoms.)

If the problem persists, replace the ballast. I posted a good link a few posts back.

Thanks so much--I really appreciate the reply.

I will try that tonight and monitor. The good thing is HD content still looks great so it is not a huge problem.

I will report back and let you guys know how it performs after reseating.

I reseated the lamp and secured the blue safety switch. It's really weird sometimes the TV peforms well and then sometimes I still get very faint flicker or strobing. Your "flourescent light flicker" analogy is a good one.

I found the ballast for about 50 bucks shipped. 120inna55 in your opinion, is it worth saving a DLP at this point? I am just concerned replacing the ballast will lead to further problems. I have had the set for 5 years so I wouldn't mind upgrading and selling this on craigslist. It seems like the new Plasmas and LED TV's have a much better picture. How do you think DLP's compare to the new LED's or Plasmas? I love my DLP but it isn't that great with motion (sports, fast motion scenes). Thanks for your help.

I am confident replacing the ballast will resolve your issue as your symptoms are classic.

The second part of your question is a matter of opinion. Ultimately, only you can make that decision. As to whether there are better options out there? Of course there are. In terms of technology, these are relatively old sets. That said, a properly working lamp/ballast gives you the same image as when you first purchased it. If, for $50, you can attain that, versus purchasing a new set, the decision seems simple to me. However, if you simply have an itch for something new and your budget allows, take the plunge.

Well said. I'll have to think about it--

The thing I love about the DLP is the 56" size and thin bezel. For some reason it looks so much bigger than the 55" LCD/Plasmas--and a 60" is a lot of money for an LED LCD.

I do think blu-ray looks incredible on this set--and pretty comparable to the new sets, maybe not as bright. HD cable TV (Time Warner) isn't so great, but I know that has a lot to do with their compression.

I think at the very least, I will replace the ballast. For $50 bucks, I can't go wrong. If I do, I will report back on results. Thanks again for your help.

I just got my first white dot (just one). I hadn't gotten around to buying the ballast, and the picture still looked fine, other than the intermittent jitter I was experiencing--but yesterday, I got my first white dot.

Are the white dots caused by a bad ballast or a bad DLP chip? I will call Samsung tomorrow to see what they say.

What do you mean by a 'white dot'.. A single pixel that is stuck on? that is very likely the DLP chip (DMD)... a stuck mirror.

Yeah, it is a dead pixel. It looks like a white dot. I have read this has been an issue on some of their sets. The chip should last more than 5 years.

Supposedly they will replace the chip but you must pay for labor--not really sure. There was a post on it on the cnet forums.

Bummer, I was at least planning on selling for like $150-200 on CL. Now, I can't since I am reading it is expensive for the labor. I will call Samsung tomorrow. See what they say.

Can you actually see this from a typical viewing distance? I would imagine that if you could see the result of a single stuck mirror, then you're probably close enough to make out the pixel architecture anyway. Now, a cluster of stuck mirrors is a different story.

Yes, I can see it from 10 feet away. In darker backgrounds, it is more noticeable. I will call Samsung and see what they say. I am not too concerned about it as I have made the decision to upgrade. I am a little disappointed that a major part, the DLP chip failed after 5 years. If it was just a ballast, I could easily sell the TV as it was in perfect condition. Now that it is the DLP chip, I can't really sell it now as the DLP chip is an expensive part and repair (from what I am reading).

Samsung model HL-S5088W 50" DLP hooked up to a Motorola cable/DVR box (Component 1), a Samsung DVD player (HDMI) and an XBox (Component 2). Today the TV won't display a picture when I turned it on. I get sound, and if I scroll through the input sources via the remote, the screen displays the rectangular box in the upper left listing the selected component which, when coupled with the light I see from the back of the TV seems to rule out a bad bulb. I would appreciate any and all troubleshooting ideas.

Ok, so I have the HLS6187WX/XAA. I'm getting an issue with the audio. I can't hear any audio whatsoever through the left speaker, and when I output the audio through a different recevier I CAN hear from both channels HOWEVER the left channel is very very low! So low that all I can hear is the right channel. Seems like what? A problem with on board sound processing? Is there any way I can fix this? Can I order a new sound board? Do these even have sound boards or are they built into the video boards? Any one else have experience with this? Thanks in advance! This is my first post!

I have had two identical audio problems (but different than your problem) with my 6188. Both times the tech just went into the service menu and did a master reset and that corrected the problem. That answer may not apply to you (hopefully, it will because you are not going to like what the tech told me the first visit). He said that the audio and video sections are both on one board and if there is a problem with either then the board must be replaced at considerable costs (I do not remember if he mentioned a price). He added if that was the case then it would problably make more sense to replace the TV with the costs of new TVs being what they are.

HELP!!!

I have a HL72A650 and the ballast died. I replaced the power board at the same time.

I bought a Samsung BP47-00037A Lamp Ballast / Driver and it makes the TV flicker! See video below.

My HL72A650 originally came with a ballast that had part number ZNN2097358_B

When I look this part number up it says it's for Mitsubishi TV's.....

When I put my old ballast back in (ZNN2097358_B) the TV turns on and there is ZERO flicker BUT the set then turns off and started resetting itself over and over.

I have tried TWO Samsung BP47-00037A Lamp Ballast's in my set just to make sure I didn't get a bad one. Both of them caused my TV to flicker.

Any thoughts on this?

Hello all. Just joined, so I hope someone can help. I have about a 10 year old HLM507, and I recently had the color wheel and analog PCB replaced. The picture was fine for a few months, then lines began to appear randomly, and the repairman doesn't know what else it could be.

When the tv is turned on, the lines often appear, and as the tv warms up, they will often go away, but not always. The lines are often horizontal, sometimes wavy, sometimes straight. I have checked the cable connections, and it's definitely the tv.

Any ideas?

Could someone with a good grayscale or an non-calibrated TV that has the later "december" firmware with the SDP62 service menu settings, post or PM me their WB_XXX_X_COEFF numbers from the SDP62(PE) menu or a screenshot? I can't find the default numbers anywhere, only the ones for the early firmware with the SDP52 settings. I don't even need exact numbers if you paid to have it calibrated. Just a ballpark would be great.

I checked the lamp life of my HLS-6187W and it was 17,500+ hours. I was a bit shocked. In fact, it might have kept going if my sister had not left it running all night on a blank screen.. a simple push of the All Off button. It was on it's last legs anyway.

New bulb is on the way. I looked online and saw that the newer bulb replacements are much smaller in circumference and depth. Is this a cost-cutting measure or will the replacement bulb be designed to last even longer?