Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 180

Tough decision because I consider them both essential. However, that being said, I'd get the DVE first, and save for the Ideal-Lume next month.

Be sure to start with Eliab's recommended Samsung HL-S settings, then follow his DVE Tutorial.

Welcome to the 5687 club. Hang in there. The "end of August" is only two weeks away.

I havent used the DVE disk and im still impressed with the PQ of the set. It all depends on how particular you are about things. I never saw the RBE others talk about, and im not a huge AV nut.
I did purchase the Lumalight but it didnt do much more than the florescent drop light i had hung on the back of the set.
If you search back through some of these Samsung threads, youll see someone who bought a florescent drop light from HD or Lowes for $15 with the same 6500k lamp as the Lumalight. It doesnt look as pretty as the Lumalight, doesnt have the rotating baffle, but my non 6500k drop light did the trick for a few weeks till it thought id give the lumalight a shot. I still watch TV now with both the lumalight on and my floor lamp dimmed down low. Otherwise the TV bothers my eyes. I have some eye issues and bright lights seem to exaggerate it. So i guess it depends on how picky you are about things. I started out thinking i had to have the best, but you dont always get or need what you pay for. Im sure others here wil disagree.

Anyone have any comments on the macroblocking in this set during action sequences? I'm noticing it pretty badly. On Monday Night football in particular any time the camera was zoomed in fairly close during a play I would see little blocks of distortion all over the screen, is this normal or can this vary set to set?

If you see rainbows, and they bother you, then the only solution is a different technology.

Watching in a totally dark room will make it easier to see rainbows. If you are sitting close enough to the screen so that your eyes are constantly darting back and forth then it's much easier for "rainbow seeing" people to see them.

Some people learn to adapt, but I wouldn't count on it.

Your choices are the Samsung HL-S5679 LED set, or a switch to LCoS(SXRD) and LCD RPTV sets. You could also switch to LCD or Plasma flat panels. That would be very expensive.

The HL-S5679 is in a case that is wider than the other 56" HLS sets.

Get the DVE disk and follow Eliab's instructions. You can put a cheap low powered light behind the set to relieve eye strain. You might even find one with a 6500k bulb in it. You will get more bang for your buck that way.

Eliab on DVE calibration.

It varies depending on the amount of compression being used by your provider. The NBC Sunday night game was terrible on our provider -- Comcast (SF Bay Area), but was outstanding from ESPN for Monday night. I've read that NBC isn't using their full band width for HDTV. The Satellite services typically use less band width for HDTV than most cable providers.

With DTV, so far, FOX and ESPN NFL look good. NBC has lots of blocks (Movie Mode helps).

The 63" Bell'O will look great with your new set. I'm using it with my 6187.

http://aycu08.webshots.com/image/148...7330308_rs.jpg

You're right. The game was alright, but the field looked particularly bad when the camera was zoomed out. Everything blended together, similar to clay face syndrome. The ESPN game was much better. Is there a way to see which channels are broadcasting in 720p and which are doing 1080i?

On DishHD, every preseason game broadcasted by NFLHD is scary. Scary in the sense that every time there is a shot of the field, the field randomly changes colors, which looks like a compression/resolution(?) problem. I certainly hope the regular season games are better. I know NBC looked ok and Fox looked ok but NFLHD looked horrendous. I'm very disappointed how pixelated everything on DishHD looks...some signals are good, but for the most part, the locals look terrible.

Sure.

ABC, Fox, and ESPN are using 720p. Many people think Fox is de-interlacing and up-scaling a lot of 480i to 720p. I only watch Fox for football so I don't know that first hand.

All the other HDTV is supposed to be 1080i.

I would recommend using the cable card instead of a STB. I just switched and am now using a CC with Comcast. HD cable picture on the 5088 is astounding. Being an audiophile, I wanted to remove as many components in the chain as possible - in this case the STB and cables. Anyway, the picture is very clean now, though I still plan on getting the set calibrated. BTW, I was using some no name cheapie component cables, and they really mucked up the picture.

The 0(film) setting gives you a gamma curve of about 2.5. On the HL-S series, this can be independently set for the Movie mode. However, on the HL-R line, I believe it is automatically changed as you suggested.

Eliab

Considering that you've spent so much time, energy, and money prepping the rest of the system, I'd say go with the xx87. For some reason, I was picturing a TV on milk crates and a couple bean bags for recliners! That's what my place looked like when I was in college - and for a few years after for that matter!

Eliab

I agree with you. What I said was that for his particular system the differences would not have been great. Also, depending on the device, the HDMI/DVI output might in fact be more accurate than the signal coming out of the component output. Cable length and quality will be another contributing factor to consider.

Eliab

Excellent advice! Any extra funds could go towards a Toshiba HD-A1!

Eliab

It sounds like the Warm2 color tone on your particular display is very blue deficient causing everything to appear too "warm." Unfortunately, the only thing that will correct this is a calibration. In the meantime, the Warm1 color tone may be your best option.

Eliab

Not really. The following is taken from my Samsung HL-S DLP Consumer Report Part I.

"Very simply put, a display that can abide by system standards would be considered a good display. But what are "system standards?" These are recommended guidelines outlined by members of the film and television industry (SMPTE) to be used for accurate visual communication of different video systems. Contrary to what many may believe, a good picture is much more scientific than subjective."

So why you may "subjectively" prefer the cooler color temperature, it is skewing the way the material was intended to be seen.

Having said that, different color temperature modes can be useful for certain applications. For example, the correct color temperature for B&W presentation is 5400k whereas for color it is D6500.

Eliab

Once it's set, it should impact all scan rates.

Eliab

You have a good point. But you want to eliminate the variable caused by the display as well. At least that way if a program looks a little "off" you know that it is likely a function of the incoming signal.

Eliab

I just wanted to point out that either HDMI input will accept a DVI signal just fine.
For a pure video signal to the TV, it makes no difference which HDMI input you are using. If you are intending to run audio to the TV as well, then you want to choose the HDMI input that has a pair of RCA L/R audio inputs associated with it, so that you can route the audio from the source to the TV, since DVI does not carry audio.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but can't you tweak the default picture setting on Game Mode and set them to something else if you prefer? I just left mine alone and I think they look fine. I believe Game Mode has some other defaults that are supposed to be useful for playing games, but if you do not like the picture settings, just adjust them in the user menu.

Grew up in Framingham myself, on the south side....and will have Eliab here on Friday to calibrate my 6767! Sadly though, leaving for vacation the following day, so it will be at least a week before I can report back.

Looking forward to hear the results of this calibration, because this is the set I am considering (the 71 is a little too big for the room). I am also interested in whether or not overscan can be turned off permanently in the service menu like the 88's (but if that's not the case, it isn't a deal breaker).

I'm guessing overscan can't be turned off permanently as the 6767 more aligns with the 87 than the 88.

I will report after Eliab does his magic...but it won't be until I get back from vacation. I've had this set for about two months and have been extremely pleased without any adjustments on my part, and no problems as of yet. I miss PIP (for sports), but I'm holding out hope that Comcast will eventually upgrade their 3412's at some point to include this.

Eliab,

Just wondering how long we are going to have to wait for the rest of the Avical HL-S Consumer Report?

Nice! I'm near the old NE Sand & Gravel yard myself. Lovely town, 'tis.

Good luck with your calibration!!

Yeah, it could have been on milk crates with an old used couch. (That was my setup last year by the way with my 27inch toshiba crt). But this year I decided to spend all of my summer money to go the crazy high route with the setup and eat ramen noodles and easy mac every night in front of it. Hopefully it will all be worth it when I am eating steak next year in front of my sick 1080p set. Thanks for all the advice.

I know it....thanks, looking forward to getting it done.

Hi All,

I have a HLS5087W that I just got and I noticed it has a "light spot" about 6" in diameter near the top right of the screen. It looks like a light reflection or a flashlight shining on the screen. Sometimes it flickers and changes shape. I only notice it when the scene is dark without a lot of movement.

I have total light contriol in the room so it is not from an external light source. Has anyone seen this? Is it repairable?

Thanks,

Bill