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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 232

post #6931 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertA View Post

Does anyone here program their JP1 remotes?

I find that the TV doesn't respond to codes until after it's completely powered on. That is I send a discrete on code and until I get a picture (green led stops blinking) I am not able to switch inputs. So my macros are not working properly...

Can anybody else confirm if they see the same behavior?

Yup, I use the RS-2116 and it works like a charm. Use the discrete codes for
inputs switching, have programed the discrete code to enter/exit service menu
w/o power cycle etc.

Check out my settings at JP1 Files - TV

Hope that helps
post #6932 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

This advice can be correct and it can be false. Cable is highly dependent on your area. I find some places have wonderful cable that is superior to satellite, but in the majority of areas I have been it is worse the Dish or DirecTV.

If your cable has obvious MPEG or analog noise in many situations satellite is likely a better choice.

I wish that was the case here! DirecTV is inferior to comcast where I am. Though it varies greatly from channel to channel....broadcst to boadcast, overall Comcast is clearer with less compression artifacts.

Though, the Eagles game looks pretty good on DirecTV today.....could just be because they are winning
post #6933 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legolas2 View Post

Yup, I use the RS-2116 and it works like a charm. Use the discrete codes for
inputs switching, have programed the discrete code to enter/exit service menu
w/o power cycle etc.

Check out my settings at JP1 Files - TV

Hope that helps

Yeah I actually used your file it's very good
But my main question was if anybody could get their TV to respond do discrete source input change commands while it was starting up (which after much experimentation you CANNOT until the green led stops blinking).
post #6934 of 21377
Here is my experience w/ turning overscan off on HLS*87 TVs, using discrete
codes. See my post above too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

I have a question about the ability to make a macro in order to turn off overscan on an 87 with just one button press....using the button that Eliab can let you learn when he calibrates your set.

Would this be feasible...I don't know a whole lot about how programmable remotes work, but if macros work on remotes like they do in the computer world, then here is my idea.

So your learning remote learns Eliabs code to get into the service menu with out powering down. Next you can use a macro so that one button press would do the following:
1) enter service menu (Eliabs function)
2) navigate the service menu by memorizing the correct button presses to get to overscan
3) Select and turn off overscan
4) exit the service menu (Eliabs function again)
5) Turn off DNIe (using the appropriate key presses.

The reason I ask is that I have been on the fence about returning my 87 to CC and buying te 88 from Tweeter. Not exactly a fun thing to do, plus I saved a good amount buying the 87. Since I plan on having the set calibrated by Eliab in January, I will be able to learn the button from his service menu. But it would be really cool if a learning remote with macro capability could simplify the task.

Can this be done? Can anyone recommend a model that would do this?
post #6935 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertA View Post

Yeah I actually used your file it's very good
But my main question was if anybody could get their TV to respond do discrete source input change commands while it was starting up (which after much experimentation you CANNOT until the green led stops blinking).

Yup, can't be done. I turn on the TV, turn on the receiver/sat, return to TV - change
inputs. This overcomes this problem
post #6936 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legolas2 View Post

Yup, can't be done. I turn on the TV, turn on the receiver/sat, return to TV - change
inputs. This overcomes this problem

Yeah I had to use the pause special protocol to insert a delay on my macros.
post #6937 of 21377
Well BB showed up yesterday with my 5687!.

Initial impression was, wow, this is a bit larger than my 15 year old 27" Zenith, lol

The guys set it up and turned it on, and thankfully I saw none of the smudgies, and the geometry looks good, very little pincussion. The only thing we noticed was a very tiny black spot like a small bug about 1.5" from the top. In fact the BB guys said it was a bug and another they had delivered that day had one right in the middle of the screen. They said they would have a new unit ordered for me and delivered. But I'm thinking that after I get my DVE next week and confirm the geometry and settings, I will cancel the replacement. The bug is so small I only notice it if I look and the scene is bright. The rest of the set seems so good I don't want to take a chance of getting a bad one, and if I get brave enough, I can probably open one of the side ports and get it off myself. maybe I'll get Eliab to do it when I schedule my calibration,

So how's it look? Well after applying Eliab's settings all I can say is WOW!!

I watched the OSU/TEX game on ABCHD, and even though the hated OSU won, I don't think my jaw ever left the floor! I have never seen a better HD picture in a store or anywhere else for that matter. You could even see the metal flake paint in the OSU helmets. I literally couldn't take my eyes off the screen.

I also saw the very end of the shuttle launch on HDNET, and was wowed with that. I'm sorry I missed it. I sure would have recorded that.

Anyone buying though, really does need to be sure and apply the settings Eliab has for a start, because out of the box, it is set way to high, and looks pretty bad. I finally wound up with.

Picture mode: Movie
DNIe: off
Digital NR: off
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 30
Sharpness: 0
Color: 45
Color tone: Warm 2

I found that a brightness of 30 gives better black levels. This may change when I get my DVE and can really do some adjustments with it.

Oh, and remember to calibrate each input. I purchased the Sony ( yes I know, don't support the evil empire) NS75H, and it looked terrible! After messing with it for awhile, I finally remembered the settings needed adjustment for that input also, and sure enough they were default. After adjustment DVD's look much better.

SD is not great, but is acceptable for me. It actually is better than I thought it was going to be.

All in all, I am very happy with my purchase so far.

On a side note. My cable just switched to COX, and I have the SA 8300HD DVR. I have to say that the SA box has probably the worst guide and menu system out there. It is very rudimentary. I also have not figured out how to watch a program that is recording and get it to start from the begining. Going to the recording just puts you in at that point. Anybody have this unit, and can shed some light?
post #6938 of 21377
JerryT, congrats on your new TV! I'm waiting for mine due to arrive next week sometime.

I'm a newbie around here, but I wrote down the settings you mention and will use those when mine arrives. So just to be clear, that is the setting you use to watch all video sources?

I also bought a new sony dvd player (just the 55 though) and i would love to know the specifics about the different video setting you mentioned.

thanks
post #6939 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProV1x View Post

JerryT, congrats on your new TV! I'm waiting for mine due to arrive next week sometime.

I'm a newbie around here, but I wrote down the settings you mention and will use those when mine arrives. So just to be clear, that is the setting you use to watch all video sources?

I also bought a new sony dvd player (just the 55 though) and i would love to know the specifics about the different video setting you mentioned.

thanks

Hi ProV. Yeah I use those settings on my cable and DVD. Once I get my DVE disk I'll see how close they are, but right now they look very good to me.

I have the DVd set to output 720P instead of 1080i. Seems to be a bit smoother to me. I also checked to make sure that the DVD player was set to standard, (no cimema1, movie mode, etc) to avoid outputing extra stuff to the TV.
post #6940 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post

Well, after thinking about it for about five years, reading stuff here and doing other research for over a year, I finally ordered a 6187 about two weeks ago. (Actually, I initially ordered a 5687, then found the 6187 at another outlet for about 35 dollars more, so got my vendor to match that price and upgrade me to 61".)

I'm coming to this after fourteen years with the same 27" CRT -- a big shift.

The set arrived Friday afternoon. I got it set up; no HD input at this point. Time/Warner can't come out to switch me to HD for another two weeks. I'll probably try out a cheap OTA antenna tomorrow. DVDs mostly look very good off my Oppo, though, through DVI/HDMI, I don't think I'm seeing a significant difference between 720p and 1080i. Cable SD material is hugely variable, from passable to really awful.

BUT....

Here's my problem: My biggest anxiety when I impulsive upgraded to 61" was that it might be too big for my roughly 7 1/2 to 8 foot viewing distance. As soon as I saw the set in place in my living room though, I thought, "That's perfect! Not overly big at all!"

And then, after watching and trying out various stuff, I began to feel a little nauseous and slightly less head-ache-y. I attributed it to something I ate, but then this afternoon the nausea came on again. I gather (from searching on the word "nausea" here) that this could be eyestrain.

I'm assuming this could be reduced somewhat by moving my couch a little further back, which would be awkward but could be done. Not very far, but maybe a foot or two.

I'm hoping that this isn't what it is and that I'm just exhausted from a hard week's work, accompanied by lots of anticipation and worry about the set, with the sheer physical energy that went into getting it set up. (I had to move the old TV and had to get rid of my old crappy IKEA entertainment center thingie.)

But I'm begiinning to wonder if I've screwed up big time here. I haven't done any adjusting beyond entering in eliab's preliminary settings. (And tonight, watching with less ambient light, I had to crank down brightness and contrast even more: it was blinding even in movie mode.)

If this is indeed eyestrain, will calibrating reduce or eliminate it? I have a copy of Avia around here and was planning on using it after I got other things settled hooked up and settled and all. And then presumably I'd get a professional calibration in the next month or two.

Is it possible that this will get better after I get used to the size and distance? Or is it likelier to get worse? Is there any chance that this is in any way a specific reaction to DLP or to Samsung's implementation?

Maybe part of the problem is that I've been fiddling around -- switching sources and modes and aspect rations and DVD settings back and forth and changing channels, all of them SD.

I'm so damned excited about the set, and there's so much that I love about it out of the box, and it would be such a hassle, that I *really* don't want to return or exchange it. And, in theory, I love the size, but, obviously there's no point in having a set that makes me nauseous.

Please tell me that this will go away or can be mitigated. Or convince me that I'm misinterpreting my symptoms . (Oh, please, let me find out that I'm just coming down with a bug!)

I felt similar after receiving my 6187 (I watched it constantly in amazement several hours over the 1st two days). After adjusting the room lighting and just plain ole getting used to it, the funny nausea feeling subsided. My couch is about 15' away from the screen. I suffer from severe motion sickness, though. I hate airplanes and cannot ride amusement park simulator rides (rides that you sit in a seat that moves with a projection screen in front of you). I'm ok with roller coasters, it's just the simulators that messes me up.
post #6941 of 21377
I just purchased an HL-S6187W yesterday, and I must say the picture is amazing. I am going to need to fine tune things with calibrating. I do have one question though for anyone out there. I have noticed a bar across the entire screen about 2inches thick that constantly pans from the bottom up to the top of the screen. I see it in high def and stand. def. It is only real noticeable with a dark background. Is anyone familiar with this? Is this potentially a problem with my new TV or could it simply be the connection from my high def cable box to the Tv. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
post #6942 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baycountry16 View Post

I just purchased an HL-S6187W yesterday, and I must say the picture is amazing. I am going to need to fine tune things with calibrating. I do have one question though for anyone out there. I have noticed a bar across the entire screen about 2inches thick that constantly pans from the bottom up to the top of the screen. I see it in high def and stand. def. It is only real noticeable with a dark background. Is anyone familiar with this? Is this potentially a problem with my new TV or could it simply be the connection from my high def cable box to the Tv. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Search this thread on 'ground loop'


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8325531
post #6943 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baycountry16 View Post

I just purchased an HL-S6187W yesterday, and I must say the picture is amazing. I am going to need to fine tune things with calibrating. I do have one question though for anyone out there. I have noticed a bar across the entire screen about 2inches thick that constantly pans from the bottom up to the top of the screen. I see it in high def and stand. def. It is only real noticeable with a dark background. Is anyone familiar with this? Is this potentially a problem with my new TV or could it simply be the connection from my high def cable box to the Tv. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I had this too with my DirecTV HD box. For me, I was able to move it around a bit and got it to dissapear. Probably some sort of interference.
post #6944 of 21377
What did you move around? Did you mess with the box or fiddle with the cables going into the back of box?
post #6945 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by FroDaddy View Post

I know this is off-topic from this thread, but I wanted to comment on this. I have a HD-A1 hooked to a Denon 4800 via the 5.1 outputs and optical. The 5.1 outputs from the HD-A1/X1 on all audio formats is a night and day difference over the optical output. Toshiba doesn't pass a good signal over optical/coax, but it has 4 audio DAC's and it sounds very good over analog.
Another problem is using a 7ch receiver! The specs on the Toshiba are all 5.1, meaning it won't pass a DTS-ES / DD-EX signal. Of course you could use DD PL2 / DTS neo6 processing, but I wanted to point out.
I would suggest trying out the Toshiba for yourself with your 3805 before purchasing another receiver. You won't gain anything with audio quality between the two receivers using a Toshiba HD-A1/X1.

Greetings!
I understand that there will be an advantage, as the 3806 has HDMI switching. I will be able to pass the signal from my "x", to the 3806, and then to my new Samsung HL-s6187W. The HDMI will pass the higher bitrate digitally to the Denon, so I won't have to use the 5.1 analog for the high bitrate surround.
Best,
James W Barron
snowtrooper1966@hotmail.com
post #6946 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baycountry16 View Post

What did you move around? Did you mess with the box or fiddle with the cables going into the back of box?

I moved the box and tried to keep the coax going into it (as well as the component going out it) away from power cords. If it is a continuous scrolling bar, it is most likely interference and it can often be resolved by moving things around.
post #6947 of 21377
thanks for all the responses so far on the eyestrain issue!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mes444 View Post

I was just wondering if you are one of the people (like I am) that can't go to an IMAX movie because I get dizzy, or have to sit at least 1/2 way back in a movie theater for the same reason. If so, you may be too close to the screen. I have a 56" and sit about 10' away, when I get closer, I get the feeling you are talking about, back at 10' to 11' I am fine.

I *do* have a problem with IMAX and wish I had thought about that two weeks ago. In regular theaters I tend to sit in the middle or toward the back; when I can't get a seat where I want, though, I haven't had a problem sitting up front unless I'm in the first few rows: at that distance, my neck strain is so bad I'm not sure I'd even notice eyestrain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by calentz View Post

I had a 61 HLP and now a 61 HLS (88) I wanted a 71, it would have been too tight. (not enough space for the TV, equipment racks, etc.) I am 10ft away and the center of the TV is at eye level. (In a Imax, I sit as far back as I can in the theater center just to get eye level to the center of the screen)
My question for you people is: Do you have a bias light installed? (the reference to the TV's brightness)

I don't have a bias light yet, though I'll probably try one. On the other hand, I had the headache/nausea yesterday after watching in the afternoon, with the shades partly open, and plenty of light in the room (what I think of as "social viewing" mode).

Quote:
Originally Posted by schererbuzz View Post

I felt similar after receiving my 6187 (I watched it constantly in amazement several hours over the 1st two days). After adjusting the room lighting and just plain ole getting used to it, the funny nausea feeling subsided. My couch is about 15' away from the screen. I suffer from severe motion sickness, though. I hate airplanes and cannot ride amusement park simulator rides (rides that you sit in a seat that moves with a projection screen in front of you). I'm ok with roller coasters, it's just the simulators that messes me up.

I hope all it takes for me is getting used to it, but, now that I've done more googling on the subject, the range of responses seems to be even wider than I would have imagined: for some it gets better, for some worse. I have no problem with airplanes; I *hate* rollercoasters from sheer acrophobia, but I seem to recall having nausea issues as well.

Tonight's tasks are: getting an antenna; calibrating with Avia. I also have an old copy around of (non-digital) Video Essentials. Should I assume that the latter is out-of-date for these purposes?
post #6948 of 21377
Well this week I got the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player to try it out on my 5687. I had purchased a Sony NS75H with the set last month based on the reviews on here about it. I was not happy with the Sony so I figured what the hell and try out the Toshiba since I heard alot of great things about it. Well I had it hooked up for a week playing only SD DVDs and I have to say that it is way better at upconverting than the Sony. It seems to me that the Toshiba produces a way sharper image than the Sony. I rewatched most of the movies I had seen on the Sony again on the Toshiba and I finally felt that I was getting the picture I have been expecting.

Until this weekend when I finally got in some HD-DVD movies. WOW!!!! Is all I can say. Watched Firewall and I was just amazed on how unreal the pictured looked. This is using Eliab's basic settings and some tweaks using DVE. You haven't seen the full potential of this set unless you have seen HD DVDs (IMO).

So needless to say the Sony got returned yesterday and the Toshiba is here to stay. Not just for the HD movies, but because it does so much better at upconverting than the Sony. After all I still have a ton of SD dvds.
post #6949 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Worms View Post

Well this week I got the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player to try it out on my 5687. I had purchased a Sony NS75H with the set last month based on the reviews on here about it. I was not happy with the Sony so I figured what the hell and try out the Toshiba since I heard alot of great things about it. Well I had it hooked up for a week playing only SD DVDs and I have to say that it is way better at upconverting than the Sony. It seems to me that the Toshiba produces a way sharper image than the Sony. I rewatched most of the movies I had seen on the Sony again on the Toshiba and I finally felt that I was getting the picture I have been expecting.

Until this weekend when I finally got in some HD-DVD movies. WOW!!!! Is all I can say. Watched Firewall and I was just amazed on how unreal the pictured looked. This is using Eliab's basic settings and some tweaks using DVE. You haven't seen the full potential of this set unless you have seen HD DVDs (IMO).

So needless to say the Sony got returned yesterday and the Toshiba is here to stay. Not just for the HD movies, but because it does so much better at upconverting than the Sony. After all I still have a ton of SD dvds.

Yup!
post #6950 of 21377
I bought an XBox 360 specifically for the upcoming HDDVD player. Word around the forums seem to suggest that it won't upconvert nearly as well as the Toshiba does (which is remarkable). Maybe I shoulda just payed for the HD-A1 instead.
post #6951 of 21377
Criminy! I just remembered another (possibly unrelated) question:

When I hooked things up, I replicated my old hookup except that, instead of feeding my Oppo video out into the receiver, I connected it by DVI/HDMI straight into the TV. This means that currently my digital, non-HD cable box goes into my four-year-old JVC VCR, which goes into the receiver, which goes to the TV. Cable-box-to-VCR is composite video; VCR to receiver is S-video. (The cable box only does composite and, I guess, coax; the VCR only does composite, coaxial, and S-video; the receiver does everything *except* DVI/HDMI.) Presumably, after Time Warner installs HD here, I'll have *much* better -- HDMI, I hope -- connections on the cable box. I'm not sure I want to be upgrading the VCR, so I assume I should take the VCR out of the loop? Cable box and Oppo with video straight to TV and audio to receiver? Ancient laserdisc player and secondary DVD player totally into receiver? Cable-box to VCR only for recording purposes? VCR to receiver only for playback purposes?

I think the TV itself has direct in and out for the VCR. Is the idea to put the VCR at the end of the chain rather than between the TV and the other sources?
post #6952 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by edcokpareke View Post

I bought an XBox 360 specifically for the upcoming HDDVD player. Word around the forums seem to suggest that it won't upconvert nearly as well as the Toshiba does (which is remarkable). Maybe I shoulda just payed for the HD-A1 instead.

I coulda told you that was a bad idea from the get-go. You shouldn't ever rely on a console to be a good DVD player. I have high hopes but also high doubts for PS3/blu-ray. I can't afford no $1000 standalone player (blu-ray). If they released a 2-in-1 HD-DVD/Blu-Ray player, then I would probably pay $1000 for it.
post #6953 of 21377
I keep coming back to the idea of getting the A1, but everytime I do I remember that there are only certain movies I can get on HD and other only on BD. As awesome as I know it looks (I have seem a good demo or two) it doesn't matter to me if I can't get the movies I want in the format I want. So I will get the set calibrated with the money and hold off on any HD player until the future of HDDVD/BD is more established. I really really hate the fact that there has to be such division on this. There is ALOT of money to be made by a universal HD format. Consumers are going to wait to buy anything and regular DVD sales will likely take a hit because people don't want to buy SD DVD's only to have them come out in HD. It's only going to hurt all parties involved.

Blah Blah, yeah I know it's all been said. It's just frustrating....kind of like paying for poor quality HD service DirecTV are you LISTENING!!!!
post #6954 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Worms View Post

Well this week I got the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player to try it out on my 5687. I had purchased a Sony NS75H with the set last month based on the reviews on here about it. I was not happy with the Sony so I figured what the hell and try out the Toshiba since I heard alot of great things about it. Well I had it hooked up for a week playing only SD DVDs and I have to say that it is way better at upconverting than the Sony. It seems to me that the Toshiba produces a way sharper image than the Sony. I rewatched most of the movies I had seen on the Sony again on the Toshiba and I finally felt that I was getting the picture I have been expecting.

Until this weekend when I finally got in some HD-DVD movies. WOW!!!! Is all I can say. Watched Firewall and I was just amazed on how unreal the pictured looked. This is using Eliab's basic settings and some tweaks using DVE. You haven't seen the full potential of this set unless you have seen HD DVDs (IMO).

So needless to say the Sony got returned yesterday and the Toshiba is here to stay. Not just for the HD movies, but because it does so much better at upconverting than the Sony. After all I still have a ton of SD dvds.

I totally agree on the upconverting. The 10 or 15 SD movies I've watched are all amazingly better. I've only seen Syriana, Firewall, and Rumour Has It on HD Dvd. They looked unbelievable.
post #6955 of 21377
Wondering what were your settings on the Sony. Normal? Movie mode? Outputting 1080i? HDMI output? There are some tweaks you can make to it and I'm pretty surprised you saw such a big improvement when many in forums give the Sony rave reviews on its upconverting prowess. Were both DVD players set to their best settings? I'd expect a little improvement and was surprised to hear such a big improvement occurred. The slow loading of the HD-A1 doesn't bother you? How many seconds does it take to start?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Worms View Post

Well this week I got the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player to try it out on my 5687. I had purchased a Sony NS75H with the set last month based on the reviews on here about it. I was not happy with the Sony so I figured what the hell and try out the Toshiba since I heard alot of great things about it. Well I had it hooked up for a week playing only SD DVDs and I have to say that it is way better at upconverting than the Sony. It seems to me that the Toshiba produces a way sharper image than the Sony. I rewatched most of the movies I had seen on the Sony again on the Toshiba and I finally felt that I was getting the picture I have been expecting.

Until this weekend when I finally got in some HD-DVD movies. WOW!!!! Is all I can say. Watched Firewall and I was just amazed on how unreal the pictured looked. This is using Eliab's basic settings and some tweaks using DVE. You haven't seen the full potential of this set unless you have seen HD DVDs (IMO).

So needless to say the Sony got returned yesterday and the Toshiba is here to stay. Not just for the HD movies, but because it does so much better at upconverting than the Sony. After all I still have a ton of SD dvds.
post #6956 of 21377
hmm. from what i've read, you always get the best results if you just play the DVD on its native resolution (480p) and let the TV do the conversion. so therefore the premium you pay for upconverting units are a waste of $, unless of course you get a bonafide blu-ray or HD-DVD.

i'm buying the sony 55 progressivescan player.. and keepin the extra $ in my pocket. lol
post #6957 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfwald View Post

Wondering what were your settings on the Sony. Normal? Movie mode? Outputting 1080i? HDMI output? There are some tweaks you can make to it and I'm pretty surprised you saw such a big improvement when many in forums give the Sony rave reviews on its upconverting prowess. Were both DVD players set to their best settings? I'd expect a little improvement and was surprised to hear such a big improvement occurred. The slow loading of the HD-A1 doesn't bother you? How many seconds does it take to start?

I can't answer about the settings on the Sony, but the slow loading HD-A1 hasn't bothered me a bit. When I bought it, the 2.0 firmware was already available and I downloaded it before I even watched a HD-DVD. I'm guessing it takes approximately 30 seconds to load (i was told prior to 2.0 it was almost 60 seconds). Not that big of a deal. It's worth the wait...IMO. I had a Sammy 960 or something and took it back (never opened the box). I took Eliabs and others recommendations and got the HD-A1. The whole family is happy with it.
post #6958 of 21377
I've read in many posts just the opposite - that the upconverting circuitry in the upconverting players are all better than the circuitry for that in the TV's. People have done tests and proven that the upconverting players do in fact get better results than letting the TV do the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProV1x View Post

hmm. from what i've read, you always get the best results if you just play the DVD on its native resolution (480p) and let the TV do the conversion. so therefore the premium you pay for upconverting units are a waste of $, unless of course you get a bonafide blu-ray or HD-DVD.

i'm buying the sony 55 progressivescan player.. and keepin the extra $ in my pocket. lol
post #6959 of 21377
30 seconds, hmm. How many seconds for the Sony or Samsung I wonder? On another note, can anyone help me find out what the height of the Motorola 6412 DVR's are? I'm a bit space limited in my stand and IF I do get a HD-DVD player which is much thicker than the Sony, I need to know if I can put the Motorola DVR on top of it and still fit. The Motorola would have to be no more than 3" in height. The manual online has no specs on it. Does the Toshiba HD-DVD player put out much heat and is it sturdy enough to put the DVR on top of it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by schererbuzz View Post

I can't answer about the settings on the Sony, but the slow loading HD-A1 hasn't bothered me a bit. When I bought it, the 2.0 firmware was already available and I downloaded it before I even watched a HD-DVD. I'm guessing it takes approximately 30 seconds to load (i was told prior to 2.0 it was almost 60 seconds). Not that big of a deal. It's worth the wait...IMO. I had a Sammy 960 or something and took it back (never opened the box). I took Eliabs and others recommendations and got the HD-A1. The whole family is happy with it.
post #6960 of 21377
I am a proud new owner of a 6187, and I was wondering if anyone knew what it would cost to have a professional come and calibrate my new TV? Also, is it worth having it done? Will they set the picture to maximize its potential? Lastly, I live in Maryland, and I was wondering someone could recommend a good place to call (Tweeter, Myer Emco, etc.? )
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models