Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 235

Huh? What do you mean?

Deinterlacers typically look for the 3-2-3-2-3-2 cadence to indicate that they should be in 'film' mode. If they dont see that cadence, then they switch to 'video' mode.

The link I posted a couple posts ago explains it.

They only have 'inverse 3:2' which is used to deinterlace the 60 field per second interlaced inputs.

They are progress in nature and dont need to 'interlace' anything... only 'de-interlace'.

Is the 'inverse 3:2' on by default for all inputs on the TV?

Another way to say it is that the TV 'watches' interlaced input and detects 3:2 pulldown (by watching fpr the 3-2-3-2 field cadence) and then applies reverse or inverse 3:2 to deinterlace or re-interleave the film based content.

It means that the TV is always looking for an imbedded film cadence to convert the signal to progressive. Quite a bit of the 1080i content is from progressive sources which the TV can reconstruct very well.

New deinterlacers do not require user intervention to select film mode. They will automatically detect it.

Only Samsung knows.

I dont know for sure but I would imagine so except possibly for tuner inputs.

Do you mean the deinterlacer in the TV or the DVD player?

Are you saying my TV could possibly switch to 'video' mode from 'film' mode?

Is the inverse 3:2 on by default for all inputs, or do you have to turn it on yourself?

ANY deinterlacer. Whatever one is receiving an interlaced signal.

Yes.. the tv could change modes depending on input. Note that if the TV is receiving a progressive input then the deinterlacer is out of the picture.

Well I think usually the calibrationist calibrates the TV for a certain picture mode...let's say he calibrates it on movie mode....and then you feed the TV an interlaced signal. Then it switches to a different mode--well at this point, you wouldn't even be getting your calibrated settings....

Are the film and video modes picture modes, like the movie mode it?

What is the difference in film and video going to be?


It seems like this is becoming more difficult than it needs to be....

That is not how things work on these displays. These sets will use the same settings and mode unless you change them on a given input. These sets easily handle the change from interlaced to progressive with no problems.

Video and Film modes are deinterlacer modes. Totally different thing from 'Movie', 'Dynamic', Standard etc picture modes. In any of the picture modes, you could be running film or video deinterlacing. There is a 'Film Mode' setting in those picture modes which Im not certain of its function but may be a mode 'force' capability.

Ok, is there any noticeable difference between the film and video deinterlacing modes?

I am about to purchase an HDMI cable for my 6187. I was just wondering if I need to worry whether or not the cable I purchase is able to pass a full 1080p signal? My STB is obviously not 1080p, but I want to buy a cable that is future-proof. Besides the quality of the cable itself are there any other specs I should be concerned about?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

When film is available it is free of interlaced artifacts. Video is a guessing game for the missing information and will not be as clean.

So if there is an interlaced signal being fed to the TV, it will either be film mode or video mode....how does the TV determine which one it's going to use?

Now if the TV is getting a progressive signal, there is no need for deinterlacing and therefore the TV is in neither film or video mode.

Am I correct?

???? well... one is right and the other is wrong depending on the source material.

The reason there are two modes is because there is two types of interlaced material. 'Film' based interlaced material has the successive fields coming from the same source frame. That lets the deinterlacer simply combine the fields and voila.. a perfect progressive image. Video based interlaced content is very different in that each successive field comes from a different frame and is thus displaced in time from each other. If you simply combine the fields you end up with 'combing' or 'jaggies' since the stuff in the fields may have moved between when each were 'snapped'. Deinterlacing in video mode is hard and requires different techniques than used to deinterlace film.

The deinterlacer watches the input and decides which mode is correct. Good ones do it right.

This thread is ginormous. I sifted through the first 10 pages and the last 4 and didn't find an answer; what is the difference between the HLS6187W and the 88W models? Samsung's website offers no difference in a side-by-side comparison.

When the deinterlacer detects a 3-2-3-2-3-2 cadence... the material is film and the deinterlacer goes to film mode. If the cadence is not recognized then the deinterlacer works in video mode.

Correct... progressive is already progressive and doesnt need interlaced. When you deinterlace interlaced stuff, you end up with progressive.

You will find all that and much much more in the docrings Tech Links thread....


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=697413

The TV looks for a repetitive cadence 3:2 or 2:2 to then reconstruct the frame for film mode. When a repetitive field does not exist it will switch to video mode and interpolate the missing information.

You are correct that there is no need for film or video mode with a progressive source.

Thanks. I was getting all worried for nothing.

Are all the inputs on the 87/88 series HDCP compliant?

Thanks!

All that can be. Only the HDMI inputs support HDCP.

I have noticed one thing on my set. I have uploaded a picture. It looks like some kind of a light leak. When the set powers down just before it goes completely off you can see a light spot on the lower left . It is shaped like a mushroom turned on it's side with the big part to the right. If you take the picture I sent and open it in MS Photo editor and bump the brightness up slightly you can make it out inside the circle I put around it in Paint. It only shows up if the room is dark and the screen is completely black. The only time I have seen it in a program is during a shot of the night sky. I can see it if I switch to an input with nothing on it. I got real close to the screen and it looks like it is light coming from the inside. Has anyone seen anything similar on one of these sets. I'm thinking possibly a screw left out of the bulb housing and the light shining through at an angle. I haven't decided whether to call Samsung yet or wait a while and see if anything else crops up

a few major differences... to ME they were not worth the money.. for others it is.. here goes

1. 87's are piano black with a silver stip accross the bottom. The 88's are ALL Black.. i THINK the strip is also piano black.. at worse it is a flatter black with the rest all piano black

2. 88 has PIP. the 87's dont. For those with satellite and dont have a 2 tuner tivo, it is useless anyway... just my opinion.. others may have a use for it

3. QAM tuner on the 88's. This tuner is usefull for those that have cable and may have unscrambled HD feeds on it. If it does and you have an 88 you would be able to view them. Again, if you have satellite it is useless.

4. The 87's have a slight bug in the service menu (NOT FOR NORMAL USERS!!) which causes a setting (overscan) to revert back to on with each power cycle. Again, this is for high end users. Many say there is a difference in picture quality when turned off, but others claim the difference is very small.

*edit* for your own sanity, ignore the sammy website... they have many errors and inconsistancies.. i think that is the worst part of the whole company.. it is sad... the pictures for the 88 are not even correct!

*edit* for your own sanity, ignore the sammy website... they have many errors and inconsistancies.. i think that is the worst part of the whole company.. it is sad... the pictures for the 88 are not even correct![/quote]


LOL, That cracked me up Do THEY know which is which? "uh ok guys, so every FOURTH one gets a black strip, the rest get silver. Got it?"

Hey guys, I have a question to post here about the settings....

I'm watching the Monday Night Football game and I have the settings to Custom, with Contrast at 50, Brightness to 50, Sharpness to 30 and Color and Tint at 50 and set to Cool1. I also turned off DNIe and DNR.

The problem that I am noticing is that when the camera moves, the audience will flicker. How do I fix this? I originally had it set to Dynamic and it was much worse.

How do you change the settings (or if I hit the INFO button) from 1080i to 720p?