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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 282

post #8431 of 21315
10/11/06 at 8:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmule3 View Post

My Comcast 6412 box does that too when the DVR records something. If I turn on the TV and box after its already recording a program, it has the mute up top and there is no sound - cant even hear other channels. I used to wait until a commercial then turn box off then on again and set to record again. But now I just leave the box on 24/7, and no problem

You can call Comcast support at 1-800-945-2288 and they can configure your STB so that you can turn off "mute" when a recording is being done. That's what I was referring to in my previous message.

It's a very simple remote control entry. I should have taken notes.
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post #8432 of 21315
10/11/06 at 8:56pm
Collin and htwaits,

That's exactly what I was missing. That also explains why some of the SD stations look so good on this TV.

Thank you,
Mike
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post #8433 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikejl View Post

That also explains why some of the SD stations look so good on this TV.

Thank you,
Mike

You're welcome.

We have Comcast cable. The major network stations have analog SD channels, and they also have digital channels which are sometimes broadcasting SD material that they have converted to either 1080i or 720p. As a rule, the converted digital SD material looks a lot better than the analog version.

The difference can be even greater if you are using an OTA antenna.
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post #8434 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger Tony View Post

I recently bought (two weeks ago) the same TV a 5687 from an online dealer Amazon it was shipped by Eagle Freight. Absolutely no problems. It arrived on time in perfect condition. I don't think the forum rules allow for discussing price, but I can tell you that I bought mine for $600 less then you are talking about, plus I got free shipping.
Placing the unit on the ground is out of the question. I bought the adjustable stand that is made for the 50/56/61 HL-S87 models.

Couldn't be happier!

Yes, I think AVSF doesn't allow one to say "I bought product X from store Y for price Z", but I don't see the problem of general price discussion like we've been doing.

So did you get the stand directly from Samsung? I also have to look into the differences between the 5687 (PDF) and 5688 (PDF). They look awfully similar, if not the same.

The OEM stands they show in those spec sheets look so nice. I assume that is what you got.

Edit: Upon further analysis, so it looks like the 5688 has a CableCard and IEEE 1394 inputs whereas the 5687 doesn't.
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post #8435 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:14pm
Just picked my 5087 up from CC...

PROBLEM:

the speaker on the right side sounds very "Tinny". Whenever a certain audio level is used it sounds kinda like its hitting against metal (like a blown speaker).... The noise is easily duplicated by the TiVo sound when the menu comes up at the end of a show that asks if you want to delete the show.

anyone else have a problem like this with sound?
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post #8436 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Worms View Post

My setup.
Stand - Bush VS74962
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1138085296252

That looks pretty good. But at $320, darn that's one expensive TV stand. It outcosts most bedroom/kitchen TVs. But it sure looks nice and gives one a good place to put all their A/V boxes instead of having a separate cabinet.
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post #8437 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:22pm
can anyone recommend me a good cheap receiver? and maybe some good speakers?
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post #8438 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserguns View Post

the speaker on the right side sounds very "Tinny". Whenever a certain audio level is used it sounds kinda like its hitting against metal (like a blown speaker).... The noise is easily duplicated by the TiVo sound when the menu comes up at the end of a show that asks if you want to delete the show.

I don't usually use our TV's speakers but it sounds like you have a defective speaker. That should be a simple fix.
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post #8439 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserguns View Post

can anyone recommend me a good cheap receiver? and maybe some good speakers?

You're probably best off asking in those separate sub-forums.
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post #8440 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserguns View Post

can anyone recommend me a good cheap receiver? and maybe some good speakers?

You will get more responses if you check out the AVS forums for speakers and A/V receivers. Of course that depends on how you define "cheap".
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post #8441 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I don't usually use our TV's speakers but it sounds like you have a defective speaker. That should be a simple fix.

simple fix as in swap one from CC?

or

simple fix as in have the Service Technician come out?
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post #8442 of 21315
10/11/06 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserguns View Post

simple fix as in swap one from CC?

or

simple fix as in have the Service Technician come out?

It should be a simple repair. I don't know if CC would go for an exchange. If you want one now is the time to ask.
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post #8443 of 21315
10/11/06 at 10:17pm
I was at Costco earlier this evening. They had a Samsung 6767 on the floor. Is this an "up to date" model?

I really like the size of this screen. But the thing I like more than anything was the cabinet design! It looks much better than the Sony A2000 or the Mitsubishi 1080p models. The WAF was very high.

Costco's price included a nice stand too.

I tried to do a search in this thread, but didn't see too much discussion on this model. Am I in the right thread?
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post #8444 of 21315
10/11/06 at 11:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post

Is this an "up to date" model? ... Am I in the right thread?

Yes it is a 2006 model. Check it out here.

Samsung HL-S6767W

Basically it is a bigger "HL-Sxx87" in a modified 2005 case.
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post #8445 of 21315
10/12/06 at 12:15am
I've tried this over and over again and I've finally got the Overscan option to not be grayed out by going into the service menu with the input set to the Xbox 360 on Component and the 360 set to 1080i. But when I press left to turn off overscan nothing happens. Suddenly I'm feeling really stupid. What's up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

You will find lots of info here....
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow down button to scroll to "SDP52" and press enter.

4. Use the arrow up button to scroll to the "Overscan" parameter and use the left arrow button to switch it from "ON" to "OFF."

5. Press menu to return to the main menu and scroll up to "DDP3021" and press enter.

6. Use the "V-Position" and the "H-Position" parameters to center the image.

7. Press menu to get back to the main menu and power off.

(Thanks Eliab)
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post #8446 of 21315
10/12/06 at 12:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post

I was at Costco earlier this evening. They had a Samsung 6767 on the floor. Is this an "up to date" model?

I really like the size of this screen. But the thing I like more than anything was the cabinet design! It looks much better than the Sony A2000 or the Mitsubishi 1080p models. The WAF was very high.

Costco's price included a nice stand too.

I tried to do a search in this thread, but didn't see too much discussion on this model. Am I in the right thread?

No you aren't. The 67 means it's not a 1080p model, but if you're looking for a 720p model there is another thread with info for you just do a search.

EDIT: I see you mentioned the A2000 and the Mits. Yeah, that's not an up to date model, you don't like the Sammy 87W design? I think it has a high WAF (in my case GFAF) with it's sexy black borders.
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post #8447 of 21315
10/12/06 at 12:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by beowulf7 View Post

That looks pretty good. But at $320, darn that's one expensive TV stand. It outcosts most bedroom/kitchen TVs. But it sure looks nice and gives one a good place to put all their A/V boxes instead of having a separate cabinet.

Actually $320 isn't a bad price. If you want to go cheaper good old IKEA has some decent selections around $100. IKEA TV Solutions

In the $300 category look at stands from Sanus. More modern steel and glass designs are available from Bello.

It's more expensive, but I recommend the Synergy system from Salamander Designs. It's pretty much a staple of Magnolia Hi-Fi showrooms. It's completely customizable, very well made, and begins to approach the look of real furniture. Salamander Designs Synergy

Then on the high end you can easily get up into the several thousand dollar range for custom made home theater furniture.

- Collin
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post #8448 of 21315
10/12/06 at 3:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmule3 View Post

My Comcast 6412 box does that too when the DVR records something. If I turn on the TV and box after its already recording a program, it has the mute up top and there is no sound - cant even hear other channels. I used to wait until a commercial then turn box off then on again and set to record again. But now I just leave the box on 24/7, and no problem

That's exactly what the problem was, apparently. We were recording "Lost" in HD and had turned on the tv after it started to record, and thus had the problem. We'd recorded last week and all was well, but the tv had already been on.

After trying every combination of MUTE button pushing, unplugging, and reattatching wiring, it simply started working (after turning the tv off and on).

Think I'll use the Comcast phone number and call for that code.

Thanks, guys...
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post #8449 of 21315
10/12/06 at 6:24am
For those that haven't seen it, take a look here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9&page=1&pp=60

It's easier than you think, much cheaper and usually far stronger.
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post #8450 of 21315
10/12/06 at 6:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronparr View Post

I have a 6188w connected to an SA8300 HD box. I connected both the HDMI and component outputs from the 8300 HD box to the set and, to my surprise, the image is better over component.

To save you some trouble, I'll mention that I've checked the obvious things: I'm using the same modes with with the same settings for both inputs. (Yes, I do realize that the brightness, contrast, etc. can be set independently for the different inputs.)

To be more specific: Over HDMI, the image has a slightly washed out look, with grayish blacks. Fiddling with the brightness and contrast helps a bit, but I can't seem to get the image to look as good over HDMI has it does over component.

This could be a quirk of my cable box, or it could be a quirk of my set, so I'd like to hear if others have had similar experiences.

I have the same set up. While my attempts to use the HDMI connection ran into problems, ultimately I decided component was better anyway. I don't believe the HDMI connection will pass a 480i signal. I much prefer to use the "pass through" on the 8300 and let the 6188 do all the convertions. Since I couldn't do that with SD material, I blew off the HDMI option. When UMR calibrated my set, he owns one by the way, he told me Samsung had greatly improved the analog electronics in the HLS series rendering the HDMI benefit largely moot. I'm glad to hear your experience confirmed what he mentioned to me.
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post #8451 of 21315
10/12/06 at 6:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

For those that haven't seen it, take a look here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9&page=1&pp=60

It's easier than you think, much cheaper and usually far stronger.

What Bruce said. My do-it-yourself rendering for my 5687: http://www.walt.lasley.com/Samsung.htm
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post #8452 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by newsguy View Post

No you aren't. The 67 means it's not a 1080p model, but if you're looking for a 720p model there is another thread with info for you just do a search.

You might want to check your facts on that one. The 6767 is a 1080p set.

http://samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLS6767WXXAA.asp
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post #8453 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronparr View Post

I have a 6188w connected to an SA8300 HD box. I connected both the HDMI and component outputs from the 8300 HD box to the set and, to my surprise, the image is better over component.

To save you some trouble, I'll mention that I've checked the obvious things: I'm using the same modes with with the same settings for both inputs. (Yes, I do realize that the brightness, contrast, etc. can be set independently for the different inputs.)

To be more specific: Over HDMI, the image has a slightly washed out look, with grayish blacks. Fiddling with the brightness and contrast helps a bit, but I can't seem to get the image to look as good over HDMI has it does over component.

This could be a quirk of my cable box, or it could be a quirk of my set, so I'd like to hear if others have had similar experiences.

I don't think it is your set at all. I find the exact same thing. Went out and bought an HDMI cable expecting great things but found a slightly washed out picture even after playing with the settings. I have gone back to just using my component cable and am very happy with the picture.

Anyone have a calibrated set in Toronto, Ontario?
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post #8454 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:26am
Quote:


Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive
I know 1/4" is normal for 4:3 material bowing.

What is normal for top and bottow bowing? I'd say mine is maybe 1/8" if I am watching a DVD with bars top and bottom.

Does that seem within the normal range?

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Yes.


Wow,

SO most of you have bowing on material with black bars top and bottom? I measured mine to be between 1/8" and 1/4". Most of the bowing is at the last 6 inches or so before the edge of the screen. I don't think the bowing was as bad on the first set I had. What would cause them to be different? Is it some kind of alignment that can be corrected? I don't want to go to a third set because this one has a flawless screen. But I am wondering if I should have a tceh come out...of course that is risky too. Do calibrator like Eliab do adjustments to correct the bowing if it is beyond the normal spec?
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post #8455 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronparr View Post

I have a 6188w connected to an SA8300 HD box. I connected both the HDMI and component outputs from the 8300 HD box to the set and, to my surprise, the image is better over component.

To save you some trouble, I'll mention that I've checked the obvious things: I'm using the same modes with with the same settings for both inputs. (Yes, I do realize that the brightness, contrast, etc. can be set independently for the different inputs.)

To be more specific: Over HDMI, the image has a slightly washed out look, with grayish blacks. Fiddling with the brightness and contrast helps a bit, but I can't seem to get the image to look as good over HDMI has it does over component.

This could be a quirk of my cable box, or it could be a quirk of my set, so I'd like to hear if others have had similar experiences.

One thing you could try if your cable box has the option: Go into your cable box settings area and there should be an HDMI settings line, click it and set the color to RBG from the Ypbr etc. setting, the RBG is for HDMI, the other is for component, it may help.
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post #8456 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:32am
Unfortunately, I don't think the 8300HD has a line for HDMI settings. Let me know if anyone else has found an option for this.
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post #8457 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:41am
I'm considering buying a 5087 and have viewed quite a few models in various stores. Although I have never witnessed this "rainbow effect" many have referred to, I'm still somewhat concerned. For those that have seen this, are there certain conditions where it will appear? My brother has a Sammy 61" DLP and says he has seen it a few times on black and white programs. I'm just wondering if there is a way to see the rainbows in the showroom...
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post #8458 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:42am
I'm on my third 8300HD box since I got my 5687W, two weeks ago. The first couldn't do anything else while recording a program. The component output failed on the second box, outputting a bright red tint. The third works OK.

With all 3 of the boxes, HDMI handshaking with the TV is terrible. If I change the source to HDMI, I have to cycle power on the 8300HD to get the input to work on the TV. When HDMI works, it looks great, but I find component to be just as good, without all the monkeying around with remotes to make it work.

There are tons of problems with these boxes. Start by swapping-out the 8300HD.
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post #8459 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:52am
Thanks to everybody for the helpful comments on the SA8300 HD issue. I'm glad I'm not the only one experiencing this issue.

Has anybody tried the component/HDMI switch with another device just to confirm that the problem is with the SA8300 HD and not the set?
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post #8460 of 21315
10/12/06 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Yes it is a 2006 model. Check it out here.

Samsung HL-S6767W

Basically it is a bigger "HL-Sxx87" in a modified 2005 case.

Thanks htwaits, I appreciate it!

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