Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 296

Make sure you are selecting a 1080i input source when you enter the SM else the option will be greyed out.

Originally Posted by emiburke

I also have the same issue on a new HL-S5087, also from Amazon (same high-pitched ringing sound when turned off). Anybody have a resolution yet?

Originally Posted by texviddy

I called for pricing on the 6188 at two different locations (smaller shops) and they both mumbled something about "just received something" regarding pricing as they shuffled through papers.....any news on price cuts?

And before I jump into my first "real" television, anyone have any second thoughts or suggestions re: HL-S6188W or it's purchase?

Originally Posted by gadgtman

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.

Originally Posted by StallionRe

What is the fix for this noise, to replace the Wheel? LE? What? Does anyone know what is really going with this situation? It seems to me that more and more people are having a noise problem.

Are these on new sets? old sets? How many hours on the sets?

Originally Posted by StallionRe

I would get the HL-S6188W, if you want PIP, cablecard slot, and to turn overscan off. You will pay more, but shop around, check out www.vanns.com and others.

Originally Posted by Ricoch3T

How is vanns customer service as far as tvs? I'm still shopping around, I noticed they are a little more expensive but they have free shipping.

Originally Posted by curlyjive

Lol, might well be If I owned a store and someone mentioned AVS, I would be nervous Informed customers probably cause problems with a combination of high expectations and awareness of what problems to look for that others would likely not notice.

So did they not allow you to exchange the second set for a third one and that is why it was just returned? Or did you just decide to return it for a refund?

Originally Posted by Withen

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday. I called my bank and they said Amazon never even charged my card! I am pretty pissed. Do you think I can get them to rush it (assuming I can get my account enabled :P)? Otherwise I'm sorely tempted to print out the amazon price and go around to local Circuit Cities / Best Buys and try to get them to price match (even if I have to pay sales tax), as I am pretty pissed at Amazon at this point. Any advice?

P.S. The discussion on this thread has been absolutely invaluable, and I want to thank you all for giving me more than enough info to make this decision

Originally Posted by dsl_steve

1)If you read the post again you'll see the noise occurs when the sets power switch is off and the set is in standby mode.

2)The fix is to replace the power supply.

3)These are new sets.

Originally Posted by Withen

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday. I called my bank and they said Amazon never even charged my card! I am pretty pissed. Do you think I can get them to rush it (assuming I can get my account enabled :P)? Otherwise I'm sorely tempted to print out the amazon price and go around to local Circuit Cities / Best Buys and try to get them to price match (even if I have to pay sales tax), as I am pretty pissed at Amazon at this point. Any advice?

P.S. The discussion on this thread has been absolutely invaluable, and I want to thank you all for giving me more than enough info to make this decision

Originally Posted by Ricoch3T

So you like tweeter for the most part? I've never heard of them but have seen the name pop up here and there on this forum. Are you using a retail store or did you get your tv shipped to you?
Theres a tweeter about 45 mins away from me, but it seems like they offer free ground shipping on pretty much everything!

Originally Posted by minidiscbob

Not to turn this into an SXRD thread...but I'm not quite sure what you meant here.

Originally Posted by StallionRe

OK thanks. But I thought most of the noise is coming from the starting and stopping the color wheel (bearing noise).
So all this noise is from the power supply? That clears up a lot, thanks.

Originally Posted by scsiraid

Cable boxes dont have very good mpeg decoders so they arent the best PQ. Suggest you try OTA if you can and see if it is any different. OTA or Cablecard has quite a bit better PQ than a cable box.

Pro Calibration makes all the difference in the world. Mine was calibrated last week and all I can say is WOW.... what a difference.

Originally Posted by JimH-Seattle

Hello Everyone,

I have been lurking here for a couple of months, since I started shopping for a new set to replace my Panasonic PT50-54DL DLP set. I was looking to upgrade to 1080p and a slight upgrade in size as well.

After reading hundreds (maybe thousands) of posts here and other places, I finally decided the HL-S5687W was the right mix of price, features and quality for me.

I received my new set today and have been watching it for a couple of hours. The set is esthetically absolutely beautiful. I love the look of this design.

As soon as I got it hooked up, the brightness practically knocked me over, which I pretty much expected after reading these forums. I applied Eliab's recommended settings as a starting point and am much happier with the picture, although it still seems a bit harsh compared to my panasonic. I intend to tweak on the settings some more to see if I can make it more comfortable for me.

There is one issue I'm trying to figure out, and I'm hoping someone might be able to coach me through correcting it.

I'm watching HD Cable TV over Comcast via a motorola 3412 STB using DVI-HDMI. I've had local news broadcasts in HD, and right now I'm watching the NLCS on Fox-HD. Other than being a little bright the picture looks great except for one thing.

Any bright white text on the screen, such as the "KOMO4" logo during the news cast, or the "NLCS-FOX" logo on the game you can see noticable colored blotches It almost looks like the dithering (pixelation?) you would see if someone over optimized a .jpg image on a computer.

I'm sure this is a color balance/contrast/brightness issue, but when I try to turn the brightness down any further than Eliab's recommendations, I start losing detail in the dark areas of the screen.

I do have the service manual, and have been into the service menu, but the only thing I changed was turning off the Overscan. I didn't bother turning off DNiE because I'm using movie mode, which appears to disable it.

Can anyone provide some suggestions that might help correct this issue?

I definitely can see that this set could benefit from professional calibration. The picture is good, but could definitely use some professional TLC. I'm in the Seattle area and am going to seek out a calibrator. I did look in the Calibration forums and didn't see anyone in this area performing this service. I did see that David Abrams might be making a trip up this way in December, but I'm not sure I can wait that long. Anyone have any recommendations?

I would also like to pass a huge thank you along to everyone who contributes to these forums. This is probably the single best source of knowledge in the AV/HT/HD universe!

/bow

Originally Posted by gadgtman

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.

Originally Posted by StallionRe

When I clean the outside of my screen, I only use a microfiber cleaning cloth. One side is to remove the dust, finger prints, hair, etc. The other side is very soft and it polishes the screen. I bought it at Best Buy, I think for $20.00. It is designed for LCD, DLP, Plasma screens. It says it on the package. I found this to be the best cloth that acutally works.

DO NOT use any chemicals on your screen, not even warm water. These will leave marks, streakes and even a haze on the screen.

Originally Posted by dankreiner

How does the HLS6188W compare to mitsubishi's wd65731? I am set to exchange the mitsubishi for the 6188 on thursday. My mitsubishi had the artifacting problems and when i used both the component inputs, i would get this line all the way across my tv that constantly scrolled up. How is the quality on this tv? It appealed to me cuz it had 1080p via component and hdmi since i was planning on watching hd dvds in 1080p through XBOX 360 which only has component cables but will support 1080p through them.

Originally Posted by gadgtman

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.

Originally Posted by scsiraid

Eliab finished calibrating my 6188 a couple hours ago. What a difference. I thought I had it looking pretty good before the calibration... but now... WOW. After calibration, the spectroradiometer indicatated that the set was now 'on the money'. Looks GREAT!

Thanks Eliab!!!

Originally Posted by beowulf7

That's one heck of a custom home entertainment center. It's probably the largest TV I've seen fit in there.

What is unfortunate, however, is the speaker placement. Ideally, the front speakers (L, C, R) should be at the same height. You have the front sides near the floor. Angling it up might help a little, but is still not ideal. Well, I hope it at least sounds good enough for your ears.

Originally Posted by Withen

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday.

Originally Posted by GR1MM

I have the 5087 and I just had the light engine replaced by Samsung.The picture is perfect,and it looks like it did before I had a problem.
Is there a way to check if the light engine does 1080P??The Samsung tech said this light engine is for a 5087 but I want to make sure.
Could a light engine from a different model tv(5086,etc.)fit in this tv??
thanks

Originally Posted by GR1MM

I have the 5087 and I just had the light engine replaced by Samsung.The picture is perfect,and it looks like it did before I had a problem.
Is there a way to check if the light engine does 1080P??The Samsung tech said this light engine is for a 5087 but I want to make sure.
Could a light engine from a different model tv(5086,etc.)fit in this tv??
thanks