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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 296

post #8851 of 21377
I called for pricing on the 6188 at two different locations (smaller shops) and they both mumbled something about "just received something" regarding pricing as they shuffled through papers.....any news on price cuts?

And before I jump into my first "real" television, anyone have any second thoughts or suggestions re: HL-S6188W or it's purchase?
post #8852 of 21377
Quote:


Make sure you are selecting a 1080i input source when you enter the SM else the option will be greyed out.

Ah ok .... thanks!
post #8853 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by emiburke View Post

I also have the same issue on a new HL-S5087, also from Amazon (same high-pitched ringing sound when turned off). Anybody have a resolution yet?

No Resolution yet. Let's ask Samsung, they should know what is going on with this. I bet they already do and havent told anyone. What is the fix for this noise, to replace the Wheel? LE? What? Does anyone know what is really going with this situation? It seems to me that more and more people are having a noise problem.

Are these on new sets? old sets? How many hours on the sets?
post #8854 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by texviddy View Post

I called for pricing on the 6188 at two different locations (smaller shops) and they both mumbled something about "just received something" regarding pricing as they shuffled through papers.....any news on price cuts?

And before I jump into my first "real" television, anyone have any second thoughts or suggestions re: HL-S6188W or it's purchase?

I would get the HL-S6188W, if you want PIP, cablecard slot, and to turn overscan off. You will pay more, but shop around, check out www.vanns.com and others.
post #8855 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtman View Post

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.

I love the pic, sweet set up. I could not see the cardboard at all, not even the tilt.
That entertainment center rocks!!!
post #8856 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

What is the fix for this noise, to replace the Wheel? LE? What? Does anyone know what is really going with this situation? It seems to me that more and more people are having a noise problem.

Are these on new sets? old sets? How many hours on the sets?

1)If you read the post again you'll see the noise occurs when the sets power switch is off and the set is in standby mode.

2)The fix is to replace the power supply.

3)These are new sets.
post #8857 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

I would get the HL-S6188W, if you want PIP, cablecard slot, and to turn overscan off. You will pay more, but shop around, check out www.vanns.com and others.

How is vanns customer service as far as tvs? I'm still shopping around, I noticed they are a little more expensive but they have free shipping.
post #8858 of 21377
I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday. I called my bank and they said Amazon never even charged my card! I am pretty pissed. Do you think I can get them to rush it (assuming I can get my account enabled :P)? Otherwise I'm sorely tempted to print out the amazon price and go around to local Circuit Cities / Best Buys and try to get them to price match (even if I have to pay sales tax), as I am pretty pissed at Amazon at this point. Any advice?

P.S. The discussion on this thread has been absolutely invaluable, and I want to thank you all for giving me more than enough info to make this decision
post #8859 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoch3T View Post

How is vanns customer service as far as tvs? I'm still shopping around, I noticed they are a little more expensive but they have free shipping.

They are the best in my book. I bought 5 TV's from them in the past and many cables. I have never ever had a problem with them at all. I will always buy from them. There customer service is awesome. When you call them, they can tell you exactly what day you will get your stuff and where the item is. They never have Back orders that I know of.

FREE SHIPPING WAS A PLUS FOR ME!!!

Give them a call and talk to them first.
post #8860 of 21377
Curly, I decided to return it. My salesguy did give me the option though, but I figured I would just wait for a new batch. Now, if I could just get him to return my calls/emails...I'll order a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Lol, might well be If I owned a store and someone mentioned AVS, I would be nervous Informed customers probably cause problems with a combination of high expectations and awareness of what problems to look for that others would likely not notice.

So did they not allow you to exchange the second set for a third one and that is why it was just returned? Or did you just decide to return it for a refund?
post #8861 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Withen View Post

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday. I called my bank and they said Amazon never even charged my card! I am pretty pissed. Do you think I can get them to rush it (assuming I can get my account enabled :P)? Otherwise I'm sorely tempted to print out the amazon price and go around to local Circuit Cities / Best Buys and try to get them to price match (even if I have to pay sales tax), as I am pretty pissed at Amazon at this point. Any advice?

P.S. The discussion on this thread has been absolutely invaluable, and I want to thank you all for giving me more than enough info to make this decision

FORGET AMAZON!!! I WOULD NEVER BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM IF THEY EVER DID THAT TO ME.

Try www.vans.com you might be impressed, FREE SHIPPING!!! Also going to your local store might work to. Try to find a site that gives you free shipping.
post #8862 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl_steve View Post

1)If you read the post again you'll see the noise occurs when the sets power switch is off and the set is in standby mode.

2)The fix is to replace the power supply.

3)These are new sets.

OK thanks. But I thought most of the noise is coming from the starting and stopping the color wheel (bearing noise).
So all this noise is from the power supply? That clears up a lot, thanks.
post #8863 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Withen View Post

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday. I called my bank and they said Amazon never even charged my card! I am pretty pissed. Do you think I can get them to rush it (assuming I can get my account enabled :P)? Otherwise I'm sorely tempted to print out the amazon price and go around to local Circuit Cities / Best Buys and try to get them to price match (even if I have to pay sales tax), as I am pretty pissed at Amazon at this point. Any advice?

P.S. The discussion on this thread has been absolutely invaluable, and I want to thank you all for giving me more than enough info to make this decision


I ordered mine from HiDef Lifestyle and they priced matched Amazons deal.
I got tracking Number and shipment confirmation within 4-6 hours of placing the order. Overall a greart experience!
post #8864 of 21377
I liked them. Dealing with Tweeter was pretty easy and my salesguy gave me a great deal. However, Tweeter doesn't have a storefront here in AZ, but they are the parent company of a small chain here in this area. That's where I picked up my TV from since Tweeter wanted to charge me to ship to my house. I may go into their daughter store to order the TV if my salesperson doesn't call me back.

When I did my returns, I just ended taking them back to the store where I picked it up from. A little bit of a disconnect between Tweeter and the local store, but things still got resolved.

We'll see how things go at this point. I'm hoping the salesguy calls me soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricoch3T View Post

So you like tweeter for the most part? I've never heard of them but have seen the name pop up here and there on this forum. Are you using a retail store or did you get your tv shipped to you?
Theres a tweeter about 45 mins away from me, but it seems like they offer free ground shipping on pretty much everything!
post #8865 of 21377
It seems nobody's really in much doubt about this, but just in case: collinp is the MAN.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minidiscbob View Post

Not to turn this into an SXRD thread...but I'm not quite sure what you meant here.

Hi, bob. I'm not sure how to describe it, other than that it seems like I'm seeing the screen itself, rather than (or in addition to) the image. You know those textured, clear plastic sheets they sometimes put on fluorescent light fixtures? It's like I'm seeing that plastic sheet -- only finer, of course. I don't see that on the Samsung. It's a bit like the difference between paint with an eggshell finish (Sony), and gloss (Samsung).
post #8866 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

OK thanks. But I thought most of the noise is coming from the starting and stopping the color wheel (bearing noise).
So all this noise is from the power supply? That clears up a lot, thanks.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, replacing the power supply fixed the issue I had with a ringing noise that was only heard when the set was off. There can be other noise issues when it is turned on/off due to the color wheel. The fan can also be noisy when it's on.

On another note, has anybody had their screen replaced due to smudges? If so, can you describe the process? The tech told me yesterday that they'd have to take my set into their shop to replace the screen stack.
post #8867 of 21377
My 6187 (also from Amazon) has the power supply ringing noise too but at least for now it doesn't bother me. I'm kind of used to that particular noise being around all sorts of electrical equipment with switching power supplies. Plus my ears aren't what they used to be and the very high frequency of this noise is only audible to me when I stick my head behind the TV.
post #8868 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

Cable boxes dont have very good mpeg decoders so they arent the best PQ. Suggest you try OTA if you can and see if it is any different. OTA or Cablecard has quite a bit better PQ than a cable box.

Pro Calibration makes all the difference in the world. Mine was calibrated last week and all I can say is WOW.... what a difference.

Yea, I defintely know the cableboxes aren't the ideal source. Unfortunately where I live, OTA isn't really feasible (very poor reception). My set doesn't have a cablecard slot, so I'm pretty much stuck with what I have for now. I'm hoping against hope the Verizon FIOS will show up soon, although I was discouraged to find out that they use the same motorola cableboxes that Comcast does.

Also, The picture was 'fine' on my panasonic on these same sources, and I even noticed when I had the DVD connected (Also over HDMI), at least in terms of this specific issue (the pixelation on white text). I even swapped the cable back over the old set to make sure it wasn't just this particular broadcast.

This morning I tried the component connections for both the cable box and the DVD player, and the pixelation is still there.

I tried to get pictures using my digital camera, but it couldn't get the detail needed.

I'm quite sure this is a settings issue related to contrast and brightness (to put it in 'user' level terms). I'm 99.9% sure that when I have it calibrated, it will be 100% awesome.

I was hoping someone might have experienced this and come up with some adjustments to Eliabs settings that toned the whites down just a tad, without compromising the details in the blacks. Just to tithe me over until I get it calibrated.

I'm still very new to this level of detail when it comes to picture adjustment. I'll keep playing with it.
post #8869 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimH-Seattle View Post

Hello Everyone,

I have been lurking here for a couple of months, since I started shopping for a new set to replace my Panasonic PT50-54DL DLP set. I was looking to upgrade to 1080p and a slight upgrade in size as well.

After reading hundreds (maybe thousands) of posts here and other places, I finally decided the HL-S5687W was the right mix of price, features and quality for me.

I received my new set today and have been watching it for a couple of hours. The set is esthetically absolutely beautiful. I love the look of this design.

As soon as I got it hooked up, the brightness practically knocked me over, which I pretty much expected after reading these forums. I applied Eliab's recommended settings as a starting point and am much happier with the picture, although it still seems a bit harsh compared to my panasonic. I intend to tweak on the settings some more to see if I can make it more comfortable for me.

There is one issue I'm trying to figure out, and I'm hoping someone might be able to coach me through correcting it.

I'm watching HD Cable TV over Comcast via a motorola 3412 STB using DVI-HDMI. I've had local news broadcasts in HD, and right now I'm watching the NLCS on Fox-HD. Other than being a little bright the picture looks great except for one thing.

Any bright white text on the screen, such as the "KOMO4" logo during the news cast, or the "NLCS-FOX" logo on the game you can see noticable colored blotches It almost looks like the dithering (pixelation?) you would see if someone over optimized a .jpg image on a computer.

I'm sure this is a color balance/contrast/brightness issue, but when I try to turn the brightness down any further than Eliab's recommendations, I start losing detail in the dark areas of the screen.

I do have the service manual, and have been into the service menu, but the only thing I changed was turning off the Overscan. I didn't bother turning off DNiE because I'm using movie mode, which appears to disable it.

Can anyone provide some suggestions that might help correct this issue?

I definitely can see that this set could benefit from professional calibration. The picture is good, but could definitely use some professional TLC. I'm in the Seattle area and am going to seek out a calibrator. I did look in the Calibration forums and didn't see anyone in this area performing this service. I did see that David Abrams might be making a trip up this way in December, but I'm not sure I can wait that long. Anyone have any recommendations?

I would also like to pass a huge thank you along to everyone who contributes to these forums. This is probably the single best source of knowledge in the AV/HT/HD universe!

/bow

Sounds like RBE to me. As for noise at start up/shut down, my 5687 is dead quiet. It is an April build, delivered the first week of June, bought it from TVA and delivered by Pilot Air.
post #8870 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtman View Post

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.

That's one heck of a custom home entertainment center. It's probably the largest TV I've seen fit in there.

What is unfortunate, however, is the speaker placement. Ideally, the front speakers (L, C, R) should be at the same height. You have the front sides near the floor. Angling it up might help a little, but is still not ideal. Well, I hope it at least sounds good enough for your ears.
post #8871 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

When I clean the outside of my screen, I only use a microfiber cleaning cloth. One side is to remove the dust, finger prints, hair, etc. The other side is very soft and it polishes the screen. I bought it at Best Buy, I think for $20.00. It is designed for LCD, DLP, Plasma screens. It says it on the package. I found this to be the best cloth that acutally works.

DO NOT use any chemicals on your screen, not even warm water. These will leave marks, streakes and even a haze on the screen.

I ordered the screen cleaner from samsungparts.com and it works really well with the fingerprints and dust on the screen with a microfiber towel. Only reason I recommend it came with an older Samsung TV that I had. I was surprized that our TV's didn't come with it since it came with the cabinet towel.
post #8872 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankreiner View Post

How does the HLS6188W compare to mitsubishi's wd65731? I am set to exchange the mitsubishi for the 6188 on thursday. My mitsubishi had the artifacting problems and when i used both the component inputs, i would get this line all the way across my tv that constantly scrolled up. How is the quality on this tv? It appealed to me cuz it had 1080p via component and hdmi since i was planning on watching hd dvds in 1080p through XBOX 360 which only has component cables but will support 1080p through them.

Be aware that the 360 will NOT output 1080p video over component for HD-DVD when the player comes out, only through VGA and possibly HDMI eventually.
post #8873 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtman View Post

I actually just did this the other day because my custom entertainment center stand is too high for my 6767. All I did was put a strip of cardboard underneath the back of the stand...it tilts very slightly, not really noticeable, but it makes a difference. Eliab and David didn't think I needed to do it from my seating distance (15' - 18') but I tried it and I'm satisfied.

Here's a pic of my setup - you can't see the tilt from this shot, but it will give you an idea of how high my stand is.


Thanks for the feedback gadgtman....That is one giant entertainment center ya got there...Cool.

I'm curious....Just how high is your center stand off the ground?

Since the top of my corner TV stand is 32" tall, I'll definitely need to tilt my DLP forward to get a "perfect" viewing angle for my seating situation.
post #8874 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

Eliab finished calibrating my 6188 a couple hours ago. What a difference. I thought I had it looking pretty good before the calibration... but now... WOW. After calibration, the spectroradiometer indicatated that the set was now 'on the money'. Looks GREAT!

Thanks Eliab!!!

I just added your calibration post to the list linked at the bottom of my message. If you are able to comment more fully about your calibration I will update the list.

Enjoy.
post #8875 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by beowulf7 View Post

That's one heck of a custom home entertainment center. It's probably the largest TV I've seen fit in there.

What is unfortunate, however, is the speaker placement. Ideally, the front speakers (L, C, R) should be at the same height. You have the front sides near the floor. Angling it up might help a little, but is still not ideal. Well, I hope it at least sounds good enough for your ears.

You don't need all three front speakers at the same height. The high frequency components though should be close to ear level when seated for best effect. The center channel should be angled toward the listener's head if above or below the TV.
post #8876 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Withen View Post

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 6187 from amazon on Tuesday. Today I got an e-mail saying they disabled my account due to unauthorized activity... this after my calling them yesterday to confirm that the order was in fact being processed and would ship out yesterday.

Have you verified your account has been disabled?
Sounds like a classic phishing attempt...
("we have disabled your account due to unauthorized activity, please click on the link below and enter all of your personal info to reactivate")
post #8877 of 21377
I have the 5087 and I just had the light engine replaced by Samsung.The picture is perfect,and it looks like it did before I had a problem.
Is there a way to check if the light engine does 1080P??The Samsung tech said this light engine is for a 5087 but I want to make sure.
Could a light engine from a different model tv(5086,etc.)fit in this tv??
thanks
post #8878 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by GR1MM View Post

I have the 5087 and I just had the light engine replaced by Samsung.The picture is perfect,and it looks like it did before I had a problem.
Is there a way to check if the light engine does 1080P??The Samsung tech said this light engine is for a 5087 but I want to make sure.
Could a light engine from a different model tv(5086,etc.)fit in this tv??
thanks

What makes you think your first light engine was doing 1080p? The new one is no different.

You could check the new engine's part number (is it on the receipt?) with the Samsung parts department.
post #8879 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by GR1MM View Post

I have the 5087 and I just had the light engine replaced by Samsung.The picture is perfect,and it looks like it did before I had a problem.
Is there a way to check if the light engine does 1080P??The Samsung tech said this light engine is for a 5087 but I want to make sure.
Could a light engine from a different model tv(5086,etc.)fit in this tv??
thanks

I would imagine that the sets firmware would have a fit if the wrong light engine was installed.
post #8880 of 21377
Hi All,

I just had a "Tier 2" calibration performed on my HLS-5087 by David Abrams (www.avical.com).

Prior to the calibration I had put in the starting values for the user menu as suggested by Eliab and set Gamma to 0 in the service menu. I had a decent picture at this point but I was still expecting better contrast and punch. Also, on a lot of HD content (via DirecTV H20-600 on HDMI) I was seeing a slight "haze" on film based material that reduced perceived contrast over the whole image.

Post calibration, I am really thrilled with the picture. SD is quite watchable, DVD's look almost HD like, and true HD (well HD-Lite via DirecTV) looks stunning. Much more contrast and punch. Very vivid colors, but extremely accurate flesh tones. I can see way more shadow detail when I darken the room now. My next step is to get the OTA HD antenna setup - I can't wait to see what kind of picture I can get with that.

As for David Abrams, he was extemely patient and answered my questions in as much detail as I could handle - it was a very educational day for me - I learned a lot about my set. Overall, an extremely professional job, I am heartily recommending David to everyone.
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