Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 300

Originally Posted by profjoe

Just an update for anyone that noticed my mention of ghosting back a dozen pages or so.

My TV exhibits "ghosting" whenever a bright item is in the lower, central part of the screen (I get a milky white glare that shoots upward from that point). I think one other poster has described this as a "flashlight" look, and I would agree as long as what you mean is a flashlight being pointed *at* the images on the screen (rather than coming *out* from the set, because it is far too diffuse to look like that).

In any case, I had this issue along with an intermittently non-working remote (someone else commented on this as well, where the remote would cause a green light on the TV to blink whenever you pressed a button, but the TV itself would not respond).

In any case, I had a service call the other day and the tech first cleaned the lens ... no good.
then replaced the light engine ... no good.
then replaced the digital board (to fix the remote issue) ... no idea on this one yet since it is intermittent anyway.

I have another service call now being scheduled for next week where they are going to replace the screen (once the tech was on hand and coulr *see* the issue he thought it was almost certainly the screen *before* he tried the other things) since they think that the two layers are not properly fused together so that light gets in there and "bounces around a bit".

I have made a few test patterns to check this issue, and will post (hopefully) before and after pics closer to the screen replace.

Originally Posted by laserguns

i have that as well.....ghosting/flashligheffect please keep me updated

Originally Posted by CPTuell

If I try to do the demo both sides of the screen are the same. When I switch between off and on there is no change. If I power down and unplug from the wall, wait a few then plug it back in and power on the DNIe demo now works and I can see a difference when DNIe is off and on.

Originally Posted by Tarheel72


As for calibratin, I hesitate to get involved in this as I know I will get my hand slapped, so this is the one and only comment. I verified with calibrators on this forum that a properly calibrated and maintained display should be recalibrated annually and always after a part, including the bulb, is replaced. Now it was offered that you might receive a discount on the subsequent housecall, if it is the result of a replacement part, but not sure if that would apply if had been a year or more. And if the calibrator is out of the area, then you are at the mercy of their travel schedule.

Using a cost of $500 for calibration, and assuming a new bulb every other year or so at $200 a pop, you are looking at about $600 a year in maintenance costs for the TV, or $50 a month, to get the most out of it. I am not sure about most of you, but I don't have an extra $50 bucks a month to pay for TV maintenance. I personally would love to get my TV calibrated, I am 100% positive it would make the picture look better. But I am not willing to take the chance that my TV will not have any problems until I need a bulb replacement, and after that I start to lose the benefits of the calibration at some rate to be determined. For these reasons, calibration is out of my reach, but I do enjoy the picture I have. So I am satisfied with what I have for now. Not to mention the fact that my wife would kill me.

Originally Posted by htwaits

The DNIe demo is a poinless marketing fake. Stop playing with it and you will no longer have a problem.

Originally Posted by CPTuell

htwaits, The only reason I even looked at it was the picture looked oversaturated when I watched it the next day after calibration.

Originally Posted by mcd4959

Stop worrying about seeing pixels from 1 foot away - that's hilarious!

Originally Posted by lost0822

any opinons???

Originally Posted by scsiraid

Can either of you provide a pic?

Originally Posted by htwaits

Sorry. I didn't understand that from your first post.

I'm still not sure why you would be turning "DNIe Demo" on. I don't have a HLS sets but aren't the options "ON", "OFF", and "Demo"?

Have you posted your impressions of Eliab's calibration? I would like to include it in the "Customer Reports" list.

I think of my TV, STB and A/V receiver as computers that need to be re-booted once in a while.

Originally Posted by htwaits

Stop playing with it and you will no longer have a problem.

Originally Posted by curlyjive

Can anyone see some color around the white lines of a crosshatch pattern (like a geometry or convergence grid)....especially at the edges of the screen? On mine, I do but you need to be less than a foot away. Looking for someone else to check theirs to see if it's the same. I have a return pending and I wanto verify this issue.

Originally Posted by collinp

You bought a fancy precision instrument and it needs to be tuned. If you buy an expensive piano the first thing you do is call the piano tuner.

$600 is at the top end of the scale. The low end would be about $300. With an average around $450.

One pie in the sky dream I have is that one day sets will come with a little puck to allow the set to be auto calibrated at home. Stick the puck on the screen, choose calibrate from the on screen menu and sit back while the set generates test patterns and tunes itself up. You could probably get away with a cheap tristimulus meter if the filters were chosen specifically for the set. Most receivers nowadays come with a mic for automatic audio calibration, so there is a precedent.

- Collin

Originally Posted by curlyjive

Can anyone see some color around the white lines of a crosshatch pattern (like a geometry or convergence grid)....especially at the edges of the screen? On mine, I do but you need to be less than a foot away. Looking for someone else to check theirs to see if it's the same. I have a return pending and I wanto verify this issue.

Originally Posted by bbexperience

I'll apologize in advance if this sounds rude, but if you can only see this from under a foot away from the screen, why do you care? Just sit back and pretend it's not there.

Originally Posted by minidiscbob

OK, all you Samsung owners....it's decision time for me. I've been laboring over the past several weeks over deciding between buying the 5087 and the Sony A2000. When you purchased your set, I'm sure you looked at other brands as well. What, in the end, made you decide on the Samsung?

Simple...because for what these things cost, why should there be something wrong with it? If this is present on every set, then that's fine. But if not I would want to know.

Originally Posted by mikeynavy1

Very good question. I posted on here before, and someone has already posted, that the the A2000s suffer the same green blob issues as the earlier XBR1s. If the XBR2s suffer this, which I'm sure they do (they only get the DRC2.5 upgrade and more inputs) then that is a pity. If you've seen the green blob issue it is annoying. It is bright at first, then fades, but is still visible on light screens.

Originally Posted by CPTuell

htwaits, That's ok sometimes my fingers don't type what my brain is trying to say???

After I unplugged it and went back I could see a change when switching DNIe off/on and I could see a difference between the R and L side of the screen.

Ufortunately the next day it was back to not working again. I hate to have to unplug the set before I turn it on every time.

Originally Posted by CPTuell

As far as Eliab's calibration goes, I was impressed with his knowledge and ability to calibrate the set and explain why and whay he was doing. When he finnished the picture was fantastic. For example Monday Night Football was on and the grass looked grass green, the uniforms looked red without looking like they were glowing. Lots of detail in dark scenes and great fleshtones. Is that what you need for the customer reports?

Originally Posted by htwaits

I don't either.

While keeping a TV "tuned" may be the ideal, I don't expect to do that.

My $400 calibration was done 16 months ago so my rate has been $25 per month. A year from now, if the set doesn't have major repairs done to it, that rate will be ~$14 per month. If I don't get "new TV fever" by then, the rate will keep going down. By the time the extended warranty has expired the calibration will be $10 a month. That's my target.

Originally Posted by CPTuell

Hi all, I have just discovered a problem with my 6188 that I may have had from the beginning. If someone has seen this or has a remedy please let me know. It seems that the dreaded DNIe is on when the the user menu says it is off. If I try to do the demo both sides of the screen are the same. When I switch between off and on there is no change. If I power down and unplug from the wall, wait a few then plug it back in and power on the DNIe demo now works and I can see a difference when DNIe is off and on. Problem is when I power it off and turn it back on later DNIe is stuck on again but the menu says off. My major concern is that I just had it calibrated by Eliab and I'm worried that this could be a board problem that if replaced would nullify the calibration and secondly if the DNLe was stuck in the on position during the user setting part of the calibration it may adversely affect the image quality. When I do get the DNIe off for real the picture is fantastic. Eliab did a great job and was very helpful and explained the process and settings very well.
Thanks To Eliab and to anyone with any insight into this Problem.

Originally Posted by pburg

The point tarheel72 made was, assuming a new bulb is required, the set needs to be re-calibrated. Your $10/mo assumption requires a new bulb (or anything else that may go wrong with the TV) to be covered by an extended warranty, but does not factor in the cost of re-calibration.

Originally Posted by jcb68

CP, I too have had my HLS5087 set recently calibrated by Eliab...

I have experienced this issue a couple of times since Eliab's calibration and this simple solution has always worked.

Originally Posted by nicholas

Sorry if this question has been asked before. Can the HLSxx87/88 HDTVs do 3:2 pulldown on 1080i signals? The Merson article in Home Theatre magazine says no, but I wondered if someone could confirm this?

Originally Posted by htwaits

You too?

It's probably unrelated to your problem, but looking at the "Demo" mode tells you nothing about the sets PQ. Just for luck, try not looking at the "Demo" mode.

My understanding is that all that does is slow the start up a bit.

Just to get it straight in my mind I'm assuming that your modified shut down is the following -- check to see that DNIe = OFF, TV Power button OFF, disconnect the TV from it's power source after the fans have stopped running.

I'm also assuming for discussion that this is the start up sequences -- reconnect the TV to it's power source, TV Power button ON, check DNIe and find it OFF.

I'm further assuming that if you do the above with out the disconnect/reconnect so that the TV is in standby for some time you will find the DNIe set to ON when it had been OFF just before the last TV Power button OFF point.