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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 300

post #8971 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by profjoe View Post

Just an update for anyone that noticed my mention of ghosting back a dozen pages or so.

My TV exhibits "ghosting" whenever a bright item is in the lower, central part of the screen (I get a milky white glare that shoots upward from that point). I think one other poster has described this as a "flashlight" look, and I would agree as long as what you mean is a flashlight being pointed *at* the images on the screen (rather than coming *out* from the set, because it is far too diffuse to look like that).

In any case, I had this issue along with an intermittently non-working remote (someone else commented on this as well, where the remote would cause a green light on the TV to blink whenever you pressed a button, but the TV itself would not respond).

In any case, I had a service call the other day and the tech first cleaned the lens ... no good.
then replaced the light engine ... no good.
then replaced the digital board (to fix the remote issue) ... no idea on this one yet since it is intermittent anyway.

I have another service call now being scheduled for next week where they are going to replace the screen (once the tech was on hand and coulr *see* the issue he thought it was almost certainly the screen *before* he tried the other things) since they think that the two layers are not properly fused together so that light gets in there and "bounces around a bit".

I have made a few test patterns to check this issue, and will post (hopefully) before and after pics closer to the screen replace.

i have that as well.....ghosting/flashligheffect please keep me updated
post #8972 of 21377
Can anyone see some color around the white lines of a crosshatch pattern (like a geometry or convergence grid)....especially at the edges of the screen? On mine, I do but you need to be less than a foot away. Looking for someone else to check theirs to see if it's the same. I have a return pending and I wanto verify this issue.
post #8973 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserguns View Post

i have that as well.....ghosting/flashligheffect please keep me updated

Can either of you provide a pic?
post #8974 of 21377
Hi all, I have just discovered a problem with my 6188 that I may have had from the beginning. If someone has seen this or has a remedy please let me know. It seems that the dreaded DNIe is on when the the user menu says it is off. If I try to do the demo both sides of the screen are the same. When I switch between off and on there is no change. If I power down and unplug from the wall, wait a few then plug it back in and power on the DNIe demo now works and I can see a difference when DNIe is off and on. Problem is when I power it off and turn it back on later DNIe is stuck on again but the menu says off. My major concern is that I just had it calibrated by Eliab and I'm worried that this could be a board problem that if replaced would nullify the calibration and secondly if the DNLe was stuck in the on position during the user setting part of the calibration it may adversely affect the image quality. When I do get the DNIe off for real the picture is fantastic. Eliab did a great job and was very helpful and explained the process and settings very well.
Thanks To Eliab and to anyone with any insight into this Problem.
post #8975 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTuell View Post

If I try to do the demo both sides of the screen are the same. When I switch between off and on there is no change. If I power down and unplug from the wall, wait a few then plug it back in and power on the DNIe demo now works and I can see a difference when DNIe is off and on.

The DNIe demo is a poinless marketing fake. Stop playing with it and you will no longer have a problem.
post #8976 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel72 View Post


As for calibratin, I hesitate to get involved in this as I know I will get my hand slapped, so this is the one and only comment. I verified with calibrators on this forum that a properly calibrated and maintained display should be recalibrated annually and always after a part, including the bulb, is replaced. Now it was offered that you might receive a discount on the subsequent housecall, if it is the result of a replacement part, but not sure if that would apply if had been a year or more. And if the calibrator is out of the area, then you are at the mercy of their travel schedule.

Using a cost of $500 for calibration, and assuming a new bulb every other year or so at $200 a pop, you are looking at about $600 a year in maintenance costs for the TV, or $50 a month, to get the most out of it. I am not sure about most of you, but I don't have an extra $50 bucks a month to pay for TV maintenance. I personally would love to get my TV calibrated, I am 100% positive it would make the picture look better. But I am not willing to take the chance that my TV will not have any problems until I need a bulb replacement, and after that I start to lose the benefits of the calibration at some rate to be determined. For these reasons, calibration is out of my reach, but I do enjoy the picture I have. So I am satisfied with what I have for now. Not to mention the fact that my wife would kill me.

I thought I had read somewhere on this thread that calibration was something that only had to be done once to a set. (If I ever have a few spare hours to kill maybe I'll do a search! )
post #8977 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The DNIe demo is a poinless marketing fake. Stop playing with it and you will no longer have a problem.

htwaits, The only reason I even looked at it was the picture looked oversaturated when I watched it the next day after calibration. Eliab said that these sets are a little buggy and that when you change inputs or power on that the DNIe may be on even if it says off and to go to the menu and to switch it on then off to make sure it is off. When I did that I noticed there was no change in the picture. So after a little troubleshooting I found the simptoms described in my post. I agree DNIe is just a gimick however if the stupid thing is on it does affect a calbrated picture negatively. it would be great if I could just go in and pull a chip out and make it go away for good!
post #8978 of 21377
first off let me say i hate Comcast Cable.

I have owned a 5687 sine July and love the thing. I have had it set up with no problems since that time...until the other day. Like i said i have Comcast Cable. They had a huge technical problem on Monday morning this week where they were updating th cable boxes thru the cable into everyones homes. Well since that time i can not get a picture thru my HDMI connection on my TV (i use a DVI-->HDMI cable). I can get a picture thru my component cables though.....i'd rather use my DVI.

Anyway i also have another box in my house for another tv that is the same as the box hooked up to the 5687....same thing...no picture. Comcast came out to my house and told me it must be my tv or the cable going to my tv. Now...i don't disagree that it could be the cable (though i've never heard of such a thing happening....can they be fried by something like that??) but i do not believe that it is the tv all of sudden.

It would be a HUGE coincidence that my tv's HDMI connectoins decided to go on the brink the same exact morning that my cable companry decided to do a major upgrade to thier boxes...don't you think? I told them i would bet any amount of money that this situation accord because of something they did...since i have not changed anything since i set the tv up in july.

any opinons???
post #8979 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTuell View Post

htwaits, The only reason I even looked at it was the picture looked oversaturated when I watched it the next day after calibration.

Sorry. I didn't understand that from your first post.

I'm still not sure why you would be turning "DNIe Demo" on. I don't have a HLS sets but aren't the options "ON", "OFF", and "Demo"?

Have you posted your impressions of Eliab's calibration? I would like to include it in the "Customer Reports" list.

I think of my TV, STB and A/V receiver as computers that need to be re-booted once in a while.
post #8980 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcd4959 View Post

Stop worrying about seeing pixels from 1 foot away - that's hilarious!

I wasn't necessarily worried about it. I was just curious.
post #8981 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by lost0822 View Post

any opinons???

It's probably something Comcast did. You are not getting a good hand shake between the TV and the STB. AVS has a forum for cable STBs, but it would help folks in this forum with Comcast to know which model STB you have.

You might try turning the TV and the STB off and then turn the TV on. Wait until you can see an image and switch to your HDMI connection to the STB. Then turn on the STB. Maybe that will allow them to see each other.

If might even be a good idea to disconnect the component cables first.
post #8982 of 21377
Sorry if this question has been asked before. Can the HLSxx87/88 HDTVs do 3:2 pulldown on 1080i signals? The Merson article in Home Theatre magazine says no, but I wondered if someone could confirm this?
post #8983 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

Can either of you provide a pic?


I have been planning on supplying a picture. Especially to show what it look slike before the screen replacement and after (presuming this fixes it) so that others with a similar problem can get theirs fixed as well.

Now if I could just remember to actually *take* the picture when I am at home ....
post #8984 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Sorry. I didn't understand that from your first post.

I'm still not sure why you would be turning "DNIe Demo" on. I don't have a HLS sets but aren't the options "ON", "OFF", and "Demo"?

Have you posted your impressions of Eliab's calibration? I would like to include it in the "Customer Reports" list.

I think of my TV, STB and A/V receiver as computers that need to be re-booted once in a while.

htwaits, That's ok sometimes my fingers don't type what my brain is trying to say???
I only turned on the demo because when I swtched between off and on I saw no change so I tried the demo just to see if there was a differnce there, and there was not. After I unplugged it and went back I could see a change when switching DNIe off/on and I could see a difference between the R and L side of the screen. Ufortunately the next day it was back to not working again. I hate to have to unplug the set before I turn it on every time. Even Windows 95 wasn't quite that bad, but almost. Well then again maybe it was.

As far as Eliab's calibration goesI was impressed with his knowledge and ability to calibrate the set and explain why and whay he was doing. When he finnished the picture was fantastic. For example Monday Night Football was on and the grass looked grass green, the uniforms looked red without looking like they were glowing. Lots of detail in dark scenes and great fleshtones. Is that what you need for the customer reports?

Thanks
post #8985 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Stop playing with it and you will no longer have a problem.

Oh, sure. Take my mother's side.
post #8986 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Can anyone see some color around the white lines of a crosshatch pattern (like a geometry or convergence grid)....especially at the edges of the screen? On mine, I do but you need to be less than a foot away. Looking for someone else to check theirs to see if it's the same. I have a return pending and I wanto verify this issue.


Ok here is a pic of what I am talking about. It's a little hard to see the color fringing as it is such a bright line. Keep in mind the pic was taken just inches from the screen. Also the trails of light are not from the camera...so not sure if that is normal. This is from the THX optimizer...I can't find my DVE disc right now.

Anyone else seeing this?
LL
post #8987 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by collinp View Post

You bought a fancy precision instrument and it needs to be tuned. If you buy an expensive piano the first thing you do is call the piano tuner.

$600 is at the top end of the scale. The low end would be about $300. With an average around $450.

One pie in the sky dream I have is that one day sets will come with a little puck to allow the set to be auto calibrated at home. Stick the puck on the screen, choose calibrate from the on screen menu and sit back while the set generates test patterns and tunes itself up. You could probably get away with a cheap tristimulus meter if the filters were chosen specifically for the set. Most receivers nowadays come with a mic for automatic audio calibration, so there is a precedent.

- Collin

The one problem I have with your analogy is that pianos aren't regularly exchanged, returned, or need someone to come out and fix them soon after they're bought I definitely want to get my TV calibrated, but am afraid because I've had mine since the beginning of July (2nd set) and only now had an issue. Luckily they didn't have to replace the light engine, just the front button assembly, but now I need a new screen because some new spots that weren't on there before showed up. This sucks, because all of the positive comments and "oohs and aaaahs" make me want to badly. I'd want to have written copies of all the settings, and if I got a new light engine or TV down the line would know that the calibration, while not exact for the new TV would still yield almost exact results.
post #8988 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Can anyone see some color around the white lines of a crosshatch pattern (like a geometry or convergence grid)....especially at the edges of the screen? On mine, I do but you need to be less than a foot away. Looking for someone else to check theirs to see if it's the same. I have a return pending and I wanto verify this issue.

I'll apologize in advance if this sounds rude, but if you can only see this from under a foot away from the screen, why do you care? Just sit back and pretend it's not there.
post #8989 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

I'll apologize in advance if this sounds rude, but if you can only see this from under a foot away from the screen, why do you care? Just sit back and pretend it's not there.

Simple...because for what these things cost, why should there be something wrong with it? If this is present on every set, then that's fine. But if not I would want to know.
post #8990 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by minidiscbob View Post

OK, all you Samsung owners....it's decision time for me. I've been laboring over the past several weeks over deciding between buying the 5087 and the Sony A2000. When you purchased your set, I'm sure you looked at other brands as well. What, in the end, made you decide on the Samsung?

Very good question. I posted on here before, and someone has already posted, that the the A2000s suffer the same green blob issues as the earlier XBR1s. If the XBR2s suffer this, which I'm sure they do (they only get the DRC2.5 upgrade and more inputs) then that is a pity. If you've seen the green blob issue it is annoying. It is bright at first, then fades, but is still visible on light screens. I'm not a huge hockey fan, but if you are...don't get the TV or the ice will have a greenish hue to it. Sony customer support was disappointing too. They admit there is a green problem and their solution is to turn the green all the way down and turn the color to cool. Wrong answer. My Samsung is equal if not better in picture quality, and customer service has been great. If you mention anything you don't like with the TV they've been more than willing to get a tech out to at least inspect. While the argument for the cabinet looking better on the Samsung is also true, I am disappointed in the overall quality. It is more fragile than the Sonys, and other manufacturers. Just be careful if you move and are packing it. Overall, the value of this TV was better than the Sony, and that's why I went with it.
post #8991 of 21377
Quote:


Simple...because for what these things cost, why should there be something wrong with it? If this is present on every set, then that's fine. But if not I would want to know.

Quite honestly, at < 1 foot away you will notice LOTS wrong with your image not matter how great of an HD source you're running. I think what you're seeing is fine.
post #8992 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeynavy1 View Post

Very good question. I posted on here before, and someone has already posted, that the the A2000s suffer the same green blob issues as the earlier XBR1s. If the XBR2s suffer this, which I'm sure they do (they only get the DRC2.5 upgrade and more inputs) then that is a pity. If you've seen the green blob issue it is annoying. It is bright at first, then fades, but is still visible on light screens.

You know, I worried about this for a long while. Then, after checking out several SXRD's in dozens of stores in my area, I never saw the problem. I suspect it does exist, but only on a small percentage of their sets. Because it is a problem, you're going to hear far more about it at places like this forum from unhappy owners. I wouldn't let this stop me from buying the Sony. There are many happy A2000 owners out there as well.

To be fair, I never saw rainbows on the Samsung, either.
post #8993 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTuell View Post

htwaits, That's ok sometimes my fingers don't type what my brain is trying to say???

You too?

Quote:


After I unplugged it and went back I could see a change when switching DNIe off/on and I could see a difference between the R and L side of the screen.

It's probably unrelated to your problem, but looking at the "Demo" mode tells you nothing about the sets PQ. Just for luck, try not looking at the "Demo" mode.

Quote:


Ufortunately the next day it was back to not working again. I hate to have to unplug the set before I turn it on every time.

My understanding is that all that does is slow the start up a bit.

Just to get it straight in my mind I'm assuming that your modified shut down is the following -- check to see that DNIe = OFF, TV Power button OFF, disconnect the TV from it's power source after the fans have stopped running.

I'm also assuming for discussion that this is the start up sequences -- reconnect the TV to it's power source, TV Power button ON, check DNIe and find it OFF.

I'm further assuming that if you do the above with out the disconnect/reconnect so that the TV is in standby for some time you will find the DNIe set to ON when it had been OFF just before the last TV Power button OFF point.
post #8994 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTuell View Post

As far as Eliab's calibration goes, I was impressed with his knowledge and ability to calibrate the set and explain why and whay he was doing. When he finnished the picture was fantastic. For example Monday Night Football was on and the grass looked grass green, the uniforms looked red without looking like they were glowing. Lots of detail in dark scenes and great fleshtones. Is that what you need for the customer reports?

Thanks. I'll include your comments right away.
post #8995 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I don't either.

While keeping a TV "tuned" may be the ideal, I don't expect to do that.

My $400 calibration was done 16 months ago so my rate has been $25 per month. A year from now, if the set doesn't have major repairs done to it, that rate will be ~$14 per month. If I don't get "new TV fever" by then, the rate will keep going down. By the time the extended warranty has expired the calibration will be $10 a month. That's my target.

The point tarheel72 made was, assuming a new bulb is required, the set needs to be re-calibrated. Your $10/mo assumption requires a new bulb (or anything else that may go wrong with the TV) to be covered by an extended warranty, but does not factor in the cost of re-calibration.
post #8996 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPTuell View Post

Hi all, I have just discovered a problem with my 6188 that I may have had from the beginning. If someone has seen this or has a remedy please let me know. It seems that the dreaded DNIe is on when the the user menu says it is off. If I try to do the demo both sides of the screen are the same. When I switch between off and on there is no change. If I power down and unplug from the wall, wait a few then plug it back in and power on the DNIe demo now works and I can see a difference when DNIe is off and on. Problem is when I power it off and turn it back on later DNIe is stuck on again but the menu says off. My major concern is that I just had it calibrated by Eliab and I'm worried that this could be a board problem that if replaced would nullify the calibration and secondly if the DNLe was stuck in the on position during the user setting part of the calibration it may adversely affect the image quality. When I do get the DNIe off for real the picture is fantastic. Eliab did a great job and was very helpful and explained the process and settings very well.
Thanks To Eliab and to anyone with any insight into this Problem.

CP, I too have had my HLS5087 set recently calibrated by Eliab and he specifically described or anticipated the very problem you note, ie that the user menu reflects that the DNIe is off but it is apparently on. Eliab indicated that the DNIe sometimes switches back on (despite the what the user menu says) when you power up your television.

Fortunately, Eliab instructed me that there is an easy solution: go into the picture menu and increase the brightness level one point up and then one point back down to the original setting. For whatever reason, this causes the DNIe to turn back off. You may actually see the brightness of the picture change when you move the brightness level up and then remain the same when you move the brightness level back down.

I have experienced this issue a couple of times since Eliab's calibration and this simple solution has always worked.
post #8997 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by pburg View Post

The point tarheel72 made was, assuming a new bulb is required, the set needs to be re-calibrated. Your $10/mo assumption requires a new bulb (or anything else that may go wrong with the TV) to be covered by an extended warranty, but does not factor in the cost of re-calibration.

Getting an ISF calibration in the first place is "optional".

Recalibrating a previously calibrated set for a lamp change is even more optional. I won't know if I personally need a recalibration until I have a lamp failure.

At my rate of use that might not happen until I've had the set calibrated for four years. In that case, I just might be ready for new latest and greatest anyway.
post #8998 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb68 View Post

CP, I too have had my HLS5087 set recently calibrated by Eliab...

We can include your calibration report in the list I'm keeping. Check out the list with the link at the bottom of my post.

Quote:


I have experienced this issue a couple of times since Eliab's calibration and this simple solution has always worked.

Now that you have posted I recall reading about this fix some time ago. Ahhhh, memory.

Thanks.
post #8999 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholas View Post

Sorry if this question has been asked before. Can the HLSxx87/88 HDTVs do 3:2 pulldown on 1080i signals? The Merson article in Home Theatre magazine says no, but I wondered if someone could confirm this?

Supposedly yes. It's listed in the specs and there are numerous parameters in the service menu for tweaking this. Here's one interesting tidbit:

http://reviews.cnet.com/Samsung_HL_S...-31783171.html

Note that the reviewer gives a good rating to 3:2 pulldown from 24FPS, but notes that one must be in film mode for this to work. This raises several questions:
1. Was the 24FPS test in the review done from a 24P source or a 1080i source?
2. Was the Merson test done in film mode?
3. Did the Merson test look for the same things as the reviewer?
4. How indicative are the items tested by the reviewer or Merson of issues that effect the enjoyment of normal film viewing?
post #9000 of 21377
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You too?

It's probably unrelated to your problem, but looking at the "Demo" mode tells you nothing about the sets PQ. Just for luck, try not looking at the "Demo" mode.

My understanding is that all that does is slow the start up a bit.

Just to get it straight in my mind I'm assuming that your modified shut down is the following -- check to see that DNIe = OFF, TV Power button OFF, disconnect the TV from it's power source after the fans have stopped running.

I'm also assuming for discussion that this is the start up sequences -- reconnect the TV to it's power source, TV Power button ON, check DNIe and find it OFF.

I'm further assuming that if you do the above with out the disconnect/reconnect so that the TV is in standby for some time you will find the DNIe set to ON when it had been OFF just before the last TV Power button OFF point.

htwaits, Yes your assumptions are correct, but to clarify in both power on instances the user menu shows DNIe off. However in the 1st instance after reconnect I go to user menu and cycle DNIe off /on and I can see the picture change from slightly oversaturated and brighter (DNIe ON) to the normal calibrated picture (DNIe OFF) At this point I leave it off and the rest of the time the set is on the picture is great.
On the 2nd instance after powering down with the remote for the night and powering up with the remote the next day in the user menu it says DNIE is OFF but the picture is oversaturated and brighter. When I cycle the DNIe between off/on there is no picture change at all....DNIe is apparently running and you cannot disable it without disconnect and reconnect. I guess I'm just too lazy. I only want to push the remote button and have it work like it is supposed to.
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