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Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD FAQ: Link and Discussion thread - Page 9

post #241 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by leedees View Post

I output from the HD-A1 via HDMI to my Sanyo PLV-Z4 projector. I have used the ethernet connection to upgrade the firmware to 1.4.

Here's a problem with this highly experimental HD-A1 I can't figure out. (hereafter referred to as "piece of junk")

The 720p output setting of the piece of junk produces an image from a HD-DVD no better than that from a standard DVD. Whenever I hit the resolution button to change to 1080i, the player annoyingly tells me it is going back to the beginning of the disk, changes the indicator light to 1080i and then sits there forever and outputs nothing. (I can get the piece of junk to change to 1080i when connect to my Sony Bravia however and the image is spectacular)

Obviously there is a hand-shake problem between the piece of junk and my Sanyo PLV-Z4. It should be noted I use two other HDMI sources at 1080i with no problem. I am aware that the native resolution of the Sanyo PLV-Z4 is 720p, however the scaler in the PLV-Z4 is greatly superior to the scaler in the piece of junk.

I am very grateful to anyone that can offer a solution that will allow me to get what I paid for from this HD-DVD player.

Get rid of the Sanyo...problem solved. Just kidding Has anyone else reported this problem. Maybe if you started a new thread on this combo you would get better results.
post #242 of 753
a
post #243 of 753
Hey everyone, Got my A1 on WEdnesday and can you saw awesome!! My only problem is the sound, and thats my fault. Because of the age of my receiver (lack of DTS) i cant get the best audio. No 5.1 Coax hookups, only 1 fibre and 1 coax for digital so 2 Channel DD is my best, am I correct on that??


I was thinking about getting this AVR

http://www.sonystyle.ca/commerce/ser...00n32100n32104

I have never purchased a reciever myself yet, always hand me downs from my Bro who always likes to "upgrade". So I am really lost at picking these things out.

Can someone with vast knowledge tell me if this is a good machine or not? If not can someone suggest a more acceptable machine. I can get the above for 500$ CAD from a wholesaler friend I have.

Thanks
Neo
post #244 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoOiler View Post

Hey everyone, Got my A1 on WEdnesday and can you saw awesome!! My only problem is the sound, and thats my fault. Because of the age of my receiver (lack of DTS) i cant get the best audio. No 5.1 Coax hookups, only 1 fibre and 1 coax for digital so 2 Channel DD is my best, am I correct on that??


I was thinking about getting this AVR

http://www.sonystyle.ca/commerce/ser...00n32100n32104

I have never purchased a reciever myself yet, always hand me downs from my Bro who always likes to "upgrade". So I am really lost at picking these things out.

Can someone with vast knowledge tell me if this is a good machine or not? If not can someone suggest a more acceptable machine. I can get the above for 500$ CAD from a wholesaler friend I have.

Thanks
Neo

you mean this one?
post #245 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by gstspyder View Post

you mean this one?

Yeah thats the one? Any Good? Will it meet my needs

I am going from a Pioneer Elite VSX-09TX.

Thanks
post #246 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoOiler View Post

Yeah thats the one? Any Good? Will it meet my needs

I am going from a Pioneer Elite VSX-09TX.

Thanks

I would say thats a great deal.
post #247 of 753
Quote:


Where are the friggin' picture controls? You mean we can't even control brightness, contrast, and gamma at least? Or are these controls right in front of my face and I'm missing them?

Perhaps I missed it, but did anyone answer this person's question? I have seen no evidence of such controls either, which is a shame because my black look much brighter even with Enhanced Black Level turned out than my Pioneer Elite Dv-59AVi did set to IRE 0.
post #248 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadath View Post

Q: My remote seems to have a problem with the 'down' menu button, is this normal?
A: This seems to be a common complaint within the first batch of HD-A1 owners. Some have had better luck by replacing the batteries, but others have had to move to replacement remotes such as the Logitech Harmony series. Generally, the included remote is not considered a very good one due to poor layout, low visibility, no backlighting, 'missed' commands and more.

Sam

Mine was manufactured in July 2006. I just received it yesterday and it has the EXACT same problem with the "down" button on the remote. Anyone have a solution?

John
post #249 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by craftech View Post

Mine was manufactured in July 2006. I just received it yesterday and it has the EXACT same problem with the "down" button on the remote. Anyone have a solution?

John

Press with a very light touch or program an alternate.

Stace
post #250 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

It's not that bad IMO but 1080i is better.

For perspective, the 720p output on the A1 still provides all the resolution DVD can provide according to the HQV Benchmark disk. My 50 inch Panasonic consumer plasma, however, does not with 720p input and it was the best selling plasma last year.


Do you mean to say "all the resolution DVD can provide" or "all the resolution HD-DVD can provide"?

BTW the 720p output of the HD-DVD seems barely superior if at all to an upscaled DVD to me.
post #251 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

Get rid of the Sanyo...problem solved. Just kidding Has anyone else reported this problem. Maybe if you started a new thread on this combo you would get better results.


I'll opt for the second suggestion in your post! :-)
post #252 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by LR6AGB001 View Post

It should noted that here are the differences listed on the Toshiba website as far as comparisons go. I thought this might be useful, one thing that has me concerned is if the either HD-DVD player supports DVD+R? I wondering as to why it isn't listed on their website under disc playback.




So is it actually confirmed, beyond any doubt, that the ONLY things that the XA1 gives you over the A1 are a little bit heftier build quality with some slick looking black, the motorized door, the vibrating light remote, and Rs-232?

Somehow these things equal $300 more on the MSRP? NOTHING else is different whatsoever, especially in regards to any fundamentals?
post #253 of 753
Ok, I´m not very good with the audio stuff, so I have a question based on what I´ve read in the forum... How do I get the better audio quality?

via the optical or coaxial outputs? or via the 5.1 analog outputs?

Also, I have the 1.2 software version, What it is new in the 1.4 version?
post #254 of 753
Thank you very much.

I guess I already have the latest firmware:

1.4/1.09/2.OR

John
post #255 of 753
Anyone have any problems turning their player off? Mine stays on. It says GOODBYE, then it clicks right over to WELCOME.
post #256 of 753
It likes you
post #257 of 753
saw this post earlier in the forum have a hl-p6163 a two year old samsung dlp. having the same issue as posted below. but i have updated to 1.4 and still no luck. can watch a dvd or hd dvd but when i turn off the power or change dvd's or just eject the signal is lost and will not come back untill toshiba is turned off for a period of time. is this still a toshiba problem or is this a issue with the samsung's hdmi.(side note tv has had many issues and many replaced parts so wouldnt be suprised if it was the samsung)

thanks for any info
Quote:
Originally Posted by -mas- View Post

I've got a Samsung DLP - (HL-S5066W), and picked up the HD-A1 today. I connected the HDMI cable included with the player to the TV, and got a "No signal" message when I started the player. Checked the manual, saw the requirement for setting HMDI-out from the player, and did that: the player now shows HDMI in the display. But, the TV is still giving me "No signal" messages.

i've tried turning off everything off, and then back on, tried using the TV's menu (and manually selecting HDMI1) to force it to check for a signal, all with no luck.

Is there something I'm not thinking about, or is it possible that there's a problem with the Toshi's HDMI-out port? That's the only thing I can figure at this point, as the Component-out is working fine when connected to my TV.
post #258 of 753
Has firmware 1.4 fixed this problem or is this workaround still necessary? It seems crazy that Toshiba would let this persist.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

Q: I use the analog outputs and my configuration is 5.0 as I don't use a sub or my subs get their LF from the mains. The A1 won't route the LFE to the large speakers. Is there a way around this?

A:LFE routing workaround

Well, I think I found a way around this.

This routes the LFE to the L and R fronts for those of us with 5.0 configurations using the analog outputs on the A1.

You need:

RCA y adapter cable one male to two female
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male

2 in-line passive low pass filters 80,90 or 100 hz male to female RCA

Split the .1 channel out from the A1 with the male-female y cable and attach both the low pass filters to this. Then use one female-male y cable to couple the .1 output off the filter to the L front, the other off the remaining filter to the R front.

Be sure subwoofer is set to use in the A1 menu and set the other speakers how you like.

The y adapters are 3.99 ea. at RS and low pass filters (Harrision) are available from Crutchfield for 29.99/pair. Total for the fix comes to around 42 dollars not including shipping on the lp filters. I had 50hz filters already to try, but I would think 80/90/100 would work better. Custom car audio shops carry the in-line lowpass filters as well.

Low pass filters: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z91y1Vy...&cc=01&g=82600

You can't do it without the filters as this effectively sums the L+R channels as HT man said. The other benefit to this is it actually gives you test tones off the sub output on the A1 to help with setting the LFE level.

It is possible to route the LFE to all 5 channels but that would require splitting the LFE 5 ways and 5 low pass filters as well as multiple y-cables.


Thanks to RichB for his help on this.

5.0 the way to go.




Success! (Sort of) for LFE routing

Well, I put the 80 hz low pass filters in today. I had them all along; they were hiding in my nightstand drawer. Anyway, my LFE performance is now passable. Tried Hell Freezes Over, Jurassic Park T-Rex scene, as well as Serenity HD-DVD "aboard Serenity" scene. To be brief, shake, rattle, and roll.

I've concluded the LFE channel is around 10db too low, though. I had to turn down all the controls to -12 on the A1 (other than the sub control) and my LFE channel was still measuring around -3db compared to the others through THX optimizer test tones. The LFE sweep through AVIA is +/- 6db from about 75 hz to about 25 hz. This was with the other channels balanced to 0 db, C-weighted at 70db.

I still plan to order the 100 hz low pass filters from Crutchfield I think. I have a notch at about 80 hz which I believe the higher filter will help. Also, I'm hoping that will allow easier balancing of the LFE channel with the others by allowing a little more LFE through. I'll need to try setting the A1 crossover at 100 hz to see what that does as well.

I hope a firmware update will at least increase the relative gain on the LFE channel which should obviously help.


More info on LFE routing fix

Well, I've just about got it. I discovered that setting all speakers to Large actually increases the gain in the LFE channel by about 3db. I now have it balanced to within 1db with the other channels.

My LFE sweep through AVIA is now +/- 6db from 100 to 21 hz.

The 80hz notch is gone.

I listened to the opening scene in Independence Day. Excellent LFE performance.

The A1 hasn't exploded or started smoking yet.

Impressions of the 100hz low pass filter

In short, get this one. For me it is preferrable and my LFE level is now perfectly balanced to within .5db of the other channels with THX optimizer test tones. Independent channel balance is perfectly preserved. LFE sweep is +6db to -2db from 80 hz to 20 hz!


This may become unnecessary (hopefully) if a firmware upgrade eventually allows LFE routing. Until then, enjoy!

Charles
post #259 of 753
Not fixed. Sorry. The workaround works well though.
post #260 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

Not fixed. Sorry. The workaround works well though.

Sorry to hear that. Guess I got to explore this. Question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

You can't do it without the filters as this effectively sums the L+R channels as HT man said.

I don't understand this aspect. I would think that one is summing the LFE analog output of the A1 with the L main output and the R main output. Where does summing the L+R (other than the low frequency LFE output) come into it?
post #261 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

I don't understand this aspect. I would think that one is summing the LFE analog output of the A1 with the L main output and the R main output. Where does summing the L+R (other than the low frequency LFE output) come into it?

If you don't use the filter, the L + R are summed to mono through the y-cable connection to the LFE channel. The filter maintains the channel separation above the crossover point. Below the crossover point it is still summed but it doesn't matter as the LF is omnidirectional.
post #262 of 753
Q: Does the HD-A1 support 3:2 pulldown when upconverting standard DVD's?


Q: Can the HD-A1 play .VOB files when burned to a DVD?


Q: Can the HD-A1 play DVD+R's?
post #263 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmike View Post

Q: Will the player upconvert my standard DVDS to (720p, 1080i, 1080p)?
A:

Q: Will it do so over component outputs?
A:

I do not know if this answers has been given or not so here it is.

For both 1&2 normally this is not allowed (DVDFORUM rules) BUT if you make a backup of your own dvd this DOES work then, and through both the HDMI and YUV outputs.
We tested it here in france and several users confirm this.

Please note that this only works with NTSC DVDs as the firmware is not PAL compatible (yet)

see you
post #264 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

If you don't use the filter, the L + R are summed to mono through the y-cable connection to the LFE channel. The filter maintains the channel separation above the crossover point. Below the crossover point it is still summed but it doesn't matter as the LF is omnidirectional.

Hmmm. What if I were to mix the LFE with only the left or the right channel?
post #265 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Hmmm. What if I were to mix the LFE with only the left or the right channel?

Probably you'd be ok as far as channel balance is concerned. Most who want the LFE routed to their mains want it routed to both L+R though.

The filters are only 30 bucks.
post #266 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinny_27 View Post

I do not know if this answers has been given or not so here it is.

For both 1&2 normally this is not allowed (DVDFORUM rules) BUT if you make a backup of your own dvd this DOES work then, and through both the HDMI and YUV outputs.
We tested it here in france and several users confirm this.

Please note that this only works with NTSC DVDs as the firmware is not PAL compatible (yet)

see you

It works through HDMI without making a backup disc, just not component.
post #267 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

Probably you'd be ok as far as channel balance is concerned. Most who want the LFE routed to their mains want it routed to both L+R though.

The filters are only 30 bucks.

I hate the idea of perhaps intriducing less channel separation and/or adding another element to the signal path, if I can avoid it.

In my case, however, the biggest reason is to keep things simple: My L and R speakers are only "full range" from about 55 or 60hz up.... so I have a sub connected line level (split from the line level for those two channels going from the preamp to the amp) with the sub's cut off set to about 55 hz. I'm thinking all the LFE stuff is so low that it's really not going to get reproduced by the mains (even though they are getting a full range signal) and will end up in the sub....

Why don't I have the sub connected to the sub output on the pre-amp? Simple: Although my mains have response down to 55 hz, the center and surrouns only respond down to 100hz. So my crossover is set at 100hz.

----

I'm changing our my current pre-amp for a Outlaw 970, which will allow me to have different crossovers for each set of speakers (LR, C, Surrounds) which will allow me to avoid this hack. Then the only issue is: To avoid the hack, I have to use digital bass management, which means re-digitizing incoming analog signals, albeit in the 24 bit domain. Or, I can use the analog bass management, nominally 80hz crossover for all channels, but measured in at least one review at closer to 110 or 120hz. Or I can continue to use my current hack
post #268 of 753
Do not the answers for question nine and question ten in the FAQ conflict with each other?

In the third paragraph of the answer to question number nine, the answer states that the output format of DD+ will be converted to either standard DD or DTS and that the "output format will depend to the disc . . . ."

In the answer to question number ten states "the DD+ soundtrack is decoded and sent to the player's internal mixer and output using the player's internal ENCODER, which in the case of the HD-A1 is a DTS encoder."

The answer to question ten seems to suggest that the disc has nothing to do with it and that DD+ will always be converted to DTS because the HD-A1 only has a DTS encoder.

This answer seems to conflict with the answer to number nine which states that DD+ conversion is disc-dependent.

What is the correct answer?
post #269 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpankyInChicago View Post

What is the correct answer?

My understanding is that you'll get DTS bitstream from HD DVD "advanced authored" discs and both/either DD and DTS from SD DVD.

All HD DVD's have been "advanced authored" up to this point AFAIK and so have only offered DTS in bitstream form.
post #270 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

My understanding is that you'll get DTS bitstream from HD DVD "advanced authored" discs and both/either DD and DTS from SD DVD.

All HD DVD's have been "advanced authored" up to this point AFAIK and so have only offered DTS in bitstream form.

Okay. Makes sense if that is truly the case.

Another question is why the HD-A1 only has 5.1 outputs instead of 7.1. My receiver has analog inputs that I could feed the 5.1 outputs to, but wonder if I lose out by only feeding 5.1 when using the HD-A1's analog output vs. using the digital bitstream. The digital bitstream option allows my 7.1 receiver to recreate the sixth channel in my rear surrounds from the DTS Neo 6 stream that the HD-A1 generates. Of course Neo 6 is a matrix solution as opposed to true discreet format. Just wondering what the technical reasons are for the FAQ suggesting that the 5.1 analog inputs are superior to the digital input.

Also, is Neo 6 the flavor of DTS that everyone else is seeing through the HD-A1 as opposed to DTS-ES?

Thanks for your help.
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