Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD FAQ: Link and Discussion thread - Page 9

Originally Posted by leedees

I output from the HD-A1 via HDMI to my Sanyo PLV-Z4 projector. I have used the ethernet connection to upgrade the firmware to 1.4.

Here's a problem with this highly experimental HD-A1 I can't figure out. (hereafter referred to as "piece of junk")

The 720p output setting of the piece of junk produces an image from a HD-DVD no better than that from a standard DVD. Whenever I hit the resolution button to change to 1080i, the player annoyingly tells me it is going back to the beginning of the disk, changes the indicator light to 1080i and then sits there forever and outputs nothing. (I can get the piece of junk to change to 1080i when connect to my Sony Bravia however and the image is spectacular)

Obviously there is a hand-shake problem between the piece of junk and my Sanyo PLV-Z4. It should be noted I use two other HDMI sources at 1080i with no problem. I am aware that the native resolution of the Sanyo PLV-Z4 is 720p, however the scaler in the PLV-Z4 is greatly superior to the scaler in the piece of junk.

I am very grateful to anyone that can offer a solution that will allow me to get what I paid for from this HD-DVD player.

Originally Posted by NeoOiler

Hey everyone, Got my A1 on WEdnesday and can you saw awesome!! My only problem is the sound, and thats my fault. Because of the age of my receiver (lack of DTS) i cant get the best audio. No 5.1 Coax hookups, only 1 fibre and 1 coax for digital so 2 Channel DD is my best, am I correct on that??


I was thinking about getting this AVR

http://www.sonystyle.ca/commerce/ser...00n32100n32104

I have never purchased a reciever myself yet, always hand me downs from my Bro who always likes to "upgrade". So I am really lost at picking these things out.

Can someone with vast knowledge tell me if this is a good machine or not? If not can someone suggest a more acceptable machine. I can get the above for 500$ CAD from a wholesaler friend I have.

Thanks
Neo

Originally Posted by gstspyder

you mean this one?

Originally Posted by NeoOiler

Yeah thats the one? Any Good? Will it meet my needs

I am going from a Pioneer Elite VSX-09TX.

Thanks

Where are the friggin' picture controls? You mean we can't even control brightness, contrast, and gamma at least? Or are these controls right in front of my face and I'm missing them?

Originally Posted by Kadath

Q: My remote seems to have a problem with the 'down' menu button, is this normal?
A: This seems to be a common complaint within the first batch of HD-A1 owners. Some have had better luck by replacing the batteries, but others have had to move to replacement remotes such as the Logitech Harmony series. Generally, the included remote is not considered a very good one due to poor layout, low visibility, no backlighting, 'missed' commands and more.

Sam

Originally Posted by craftech

Mine was manufactured in July 2006. I just received it yesterday and it has the EXACT same problem with the "down" button on the remote. Anyone have a solution?

John

Originally Posted by cpcat

It's not that bad IMO but 1080i is better.

For perspective, the 720p output on the A1 still provides all the resolution DVD can provide according to the HQV Benchmark disk. My 50 inch Panasonic consumer plasma, however, does not with 720p input and it was the best selling plasma last year.

Originally Posted by jwv651

Get rid of the Sanyo...problem solved. Just kidding Has anyone else reported this problem. Maybe if you started a new thread on this combo you would get better results.

Originally Posted by LR6AGB001

It should noted that here are the differences listed on the Toshiba website as far as comparisons go. I thought this might be useful, one thing that has me concerned is if the either HD-DVD player supports DVD+R? I wondering as to why it isn't listed on their website under disc playback.

Originally Posted by -mas-

I've got a Samsung DLP - (HL-S5066W), and picked up the HD-A1 today. I connected the HDMI cable included with the player to the TV, and got a "No signal" message when I started the player. Checked the manual, saw the requirement for setting HMDI-out from the player, and did that: the player now shows HDMI in the display. But, the TV is still giving me "No signal" messages.

i've tried turning off everything off, and then back on, tried using the TV's menu (and manually selecting HDMI1) to force it to check for a signal, all with no luck.

Is there something I'm not thinking about, or is it possible that there's a problem with the Toshi's HDMI-out port? That's the only thing I can figure at this point, as the Component-out is working fine when connected to my TV.

Originally Posted by cpcat

Q: I use the analog outputs and my configuration is 5.0 as I don't use a sub or my subs get their LF from the mains. The A1 won't route the LFE to the large speakers. Is there a way around this?

A:LFE routing workaround

Well, I think I found a way around this.

This routes the LFE to the L and R fronts for those of us with 5.0 configurations using the analog outputs on the A1.

You need:

RCA y adapter cable one male to two female
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male

2 in-line passive low pass filters 80,90 or 100 hz male to female RCA

Split the .1 channel out from the A1 with the male-female y cable and attach both the low pass filters to this. Then use one female-male y cable to couple the .1 output off the filter to the L front, the other off the remaining filter to the R front.

Be sure subwoofer is set to use in the A1 menu and set the other speakers how you like.

The y adapters are 3.99 ea. at RS and low pass filters (Harrision) are available from Crutchfield for 29.99/pair. Total for the fix comes to around 42 dollars not including shipping on the lp filters. I had 50hz filters already to try, but I would think 80/90/100 would work better. Custom car audio shops carry the in-line lowpass filters as well.

Low pass filters: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z91y1Vy...&cc=01&g=82600

You can't do it without the filters as this effectively sums the L+R channels as HT man said. The other benefit to this is it actually gives you test tones off the sub output on the A1 to help with setting the LFE level.

It is possible to route the LFE to all 5 channels but that would require splitting the LFE 5 ways and 5 low pass filters as well as multiple y-cables.


Thanks to RichB for his help on this.

5.0 the way to go.




Success! (Sort of) for LFE routing

Well, I put the 80 hz low pass filters in today. I had them all along; they were hiding in my nightstand drawer. Anyway, my LFE performance is now passable. Tried Hell Freezes Over, Jurassic Park T-Rex scene, as well as Serenity HD-DVD "aboard Serenity" scene. To be brief, shake, rattle, and roll.

I've concluded the LFE channel is around 10db too low, though. I had to turn down all the controls to -12 on the A1 (other than the sub control) and my LFE channel was still measuring around -3db compared to the others through THX optimizer test tones. The LFE sweep through AVIA is +/- 6db from about 75 hz to about 25 hz. This was with the other channels balanced to 0 db, C-weighted at 70db.

I still plan to order the 100 hz low pass filters from Crutchfield I think. I have a notch at about 80 hz which I believe the higher filter will help. Also, I'm hoping that will allow easier balancing of the LFE channel with the others by allowing a little more LFE through. I'll need to try setting the A1 crossover at 100 hz to see what that does as well.

I hope a firmware update will at least increase the relative gain on the LFE channel which should obviously help.


More info on LFE routing fix

Well, I've just about got it. I discovered that setting all speakers to Large actually increases the gain in the LFE channel by about 3db. I now have it balanced to within 1db with the other channels.

My LFE sweep through AVIA is now +/- 6db from 100 to 21 hz.

The 80hz notch is gone.

I listened to the opening scene in Independence Day. Excellent LFE performance.

The A1 hasn't exploded or started smoking yet.

Impressions of the 100hz low pass filter

In short, get this one. For me it is preferrable and my LFE level is now perfectly balanced to within .5db of the other channels with THX optimizer test tones. Independent channel balance is perfectly preserved. LFE sweep is +6db to -2db from 80 hz to 20 hz!


This may become unnecessary (hopefully) if a firmware upgrade eventually allows LFE routing. Until then, enjoy!

Charles

Originally Posted by cpcat

Not fixed. Sorry. The workaround works well though.

Originally Posted by cpcat

You can't do it without the filters as this effectively sums the L+R channels as HT man said.

Originally Posted by nathan_h

I don't understand this aspect. I would think that one is summing the LFE analog output of the A1 with the L main output and the R main output. Where does summing the L+R (other than the low frequency LFE output) come into it?

Originally Posted by mrmike

Q: Will the player upconvert my standard DVDS to (720p, 1080i, 1080p)?
A:

Q: Will it do so over component outputs?
A:

Originally Posted by cpcat

If you don't use the filter, the L + R are summed to mono through the y-cable connection to the LFE channel. The filter maintains the channel separation above the crossover point. Below the crossover point it is still summed but it doesn't matter as the LF is omnidirectional.

Originally Posted by nathan_h

Hmmm. What if I were to mix the LFE with only the left or the right channel?

Originally Posted by vinny_27

I do not know if this answers has been given or not so here it is.

For both 1&2 normally this is not allowed (DVDFORUM rules) BUT if you make a backup of your own dvd this DOES work then, and through both the HDMI and YUV outputs.
We tested it here in france and several users confirm this.

Please note that this only works with NTSC DVDs as the firmware is not PAL compatible (yet)

see you

Originally Posted by cpcat

Probably you'd be ok as far as channel balance is concerned. Most who want the LFE routed to their mains want it routed to both L+R though.

The filters are only 30 bucks.

Originally Posted by SpankyInChicago

What is the correct answer?

Originally Posted by cpcat

My understanding is that you'll get DTS bitstream from HD DVD "advanced authored" discs and both/either DD and DTS from SD DVD.

All HD DVD's have been "advanced authored" up to this point AFAIK and so have only offered DTS in bitstream form.