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Samsung 720p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx66W/HLSxx86W DLP Models - Page 5

post #121 of 1998
You could try the old retail swap-a-roo .. Buy the same model from a brick and mortar store, then return your TVA unit to the store, tell them it was DOA. They all use the same UPC code
post #122 of 1998
If i did that, would best buy or circuit city not charge me a restocking fee if i didnt exchange? I cant remember their policy.
post #123 of 1998
Hi gang. Got my HLS4666 earlier this week. Everything looks great. I hooked my PC up to it via the VGA cable and the quality is OK.

Today I hooked up my PC via an DVI to HDMI cable and it looks beautiful. Much more crisp than the VGA. Only problem is I have the desktop over-hanging on all sides (cutting off the traskbar and icons near the edge of the desktop). When I connect the VGA cable I am able to go into the PC tools to correct this. However, when I connect via HDMI the PC tools on the Samsung menu are disabled.

Anyone know the trick to getting my whole desktop to show via HDMI? (yes, the resolution on the PC is set to 1280x720)
post #124 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatick View Post

If i did that, would best buy or circuit city not charge me a restocking fee if i didnt exchange? I cant remember their policy.

TVA's policy is supposed to be instant exchange within the first 30 days for problems like this. You should talk to a supervisor.

They do read this thread, so they know what is going on. Make sure that the "powers that be" there, know you are not happy.

Good Luck, hope it all works out.
post #125 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by fden View Post

Hi gang. Got my HLS4666 earlier this week. Everything looks great. I hooked my PC up to it via the VGA cable and the quality is OK.

Today I hooked up my PC via an DVI to HDMI cable and it looks beautiful. Much more crisp than the VGA. Only problem is I have the desktop over-hanging on all sides (cutting off the traskbar and icons near the edge of the desktop). When I connect the VGA cable I am able to go into the PC tools to correct this. However, when I connect via HDMI the PC tools on the Samsung menu are disabled.

Anyone know the trick to getting my whole desktop to show via HDMI? (yes, the resolution on the PC is set to 1280x720)

The manual recommended 1024x768 through VGA. I wonder if that is actually the native resolution of the set.. and when you send a pc signal through the hdmi (which they say not to do, glad it works) you get the 1024 middle of the 1280? Try setting the res of the PC to 1024 and see if it fits perfectly, if stretched..

I am very curious about this.. I am hoping to set up my PC in the living room this weekend to try playing oblivion on the big screen... I was surprised that they recommended 1024x786 in the manual when I *thought* the native rez was 1280... I would prefer to do it through the HDMI rather then the VGA.

Chris
post #126 of 1998
Let me stress that i am not upset with TVA. Thier service and price were great. Samsung is the one pissing me off. Ill drop them a line and see what they can do.
post #127 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artuk View Post

The manual recommended 1024x768 through VGA. I wonder if that is actually the native resolution of the set.. and when you send a pc signal through the hdmi (which they say not to do, glad it works) you get the 1024 middle of the 1280? Try setting the res of the PC to 1024 and see if it fits perfectly, if stretched..

I am very curious about this.. I am hoping to set up my PC in the living room this weekend to try playing oblivion on the big screen... I was surprised that they recommended 1024x786 in the manual when I *thought* the native rez was 1280... I would prefer to do it through the HDMI rather then the VGA.

Chris

The native res of the set is 1280x720. I imagine they recommend 1024x768 to eliminate any concerns of overscan from the outset.

To answer the original question, use your video card drivers or Powerstrip to do a resolution-within-a-resolution. In Nvidia drivers, you can go to the custom resolution page and set the timings manually. Basically you end up with a slightly lower resolution being sent in a 1280x720 timing. If you were able to turn your overscan down to zero (I haven't looked in the service menu to see if this is possible, but it's really not highly desirable), you would be fine with the 1280x720 res.

As for the VGA working, this is because the Samsung is doing something similar (although in a lossier way), in that it is scaling the signal it's receiving to a slightly lower res as you change the image size with the controls.

I think the only thing you'll really lose from using the HDMI input for the PC is the ability to control the image on the TV side. Luckily there are more than enough tools to do this on the PC side, including most current video card drivers.
post #128 of 1998
Ok i contacted TVA but they said that i have to go through samsung which is what i was afraid of. Oh well its just my luck i guess.
post #129 of 1998
How does SD look on the 5086?
post #130 of 1998
thatick, how many hours did you use your TV before the defect occured?
post #131 of 1998
I think I'm going to stick with my HLR4667W. I was seriously considering its return, to buy a HLS4666W. However, here is what I decided:

The QAM tuner and firewire ports on the HLR are nice to have. These are luxuries not on the HLS.

Yes, the HLS has 2 HDMI ports, but someday I'll need more than 2 anyway, and I can just use a HDMI selector or A/V receiver.

The only thing that I feel would be a significant upgrade on the HLS is the faster color wheel, but I never see rainbows.

So this leaves the only decider on picture quality, does the HLS produce a better picture? It seems to me most everyone says *yes it does." However, how am I to verify that? Furthermore, a couple retailers have told me they think the improvement is minimal, thought not sure how serious I should take theirs.

Do you think my conclusion to stick with the HLR is sound? Oh, yes. Lots of people claim the game mode is important. However, using game input, I've had no issues myself on the HLR.

Thanks for the help.
post #132 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayrton911 View Post

I think I'm going to stick with my HLR4667W. I was seriously considering its return, to buy a HLS4666W. However, here is what I decided:

The QAM tuner and firewire ports on the HLR are nice to have. These are luxuries not on the HLS.

Yes, the HLS has 2 HDMI ports, but someday I'll need more than 2 anyway, and I can just use a HDMI selector or A/V receiver.

The only thing that I feel would be a significant upgrade on the HLS is the faster color wheel, but I never see rainbows.

So this leaves the only decider on picture quality, does the HLS produce a better picture? It seems to me most everyone says *yes it does." However, how am I to verify that? Furthermore, a couple retailers have told me they think the improvement is minimal, thought not sure how serious I should take theirs.

Do you think my conclusion to stick with the HLR is sound? Oh, yes. Lots of people claim the game mode is important. However, using game input, I've had no issues myself on the HLR.

Thanks for the help.


I was fretting over the same thing yesterday, but the difference between a 720p HLR4667W and a 720p HLS4666W was like $125 at Amazon, it made sense for me to go for the HLS version. From my looking at HLS models at Circuit City, they seem to put out more light and have a steeper contrast ratio, which makes things pop and look better. Of course, I was comparing a HLR that was probably sitting on the floor on for 12 hours daily for a year, whereas the HLS was probably used only a month. But still, the look and feel of the HLS series seemed nicer. With such a small price difference (as May 2006), I'd say go for the HLS with the faster color wheel, dual HDMI, and the black bezel. Just my n00bie $0.02.
post #133 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by pradeep1 View Post

I was fretting over the same thing yesterday, but the difference between a 720p HLR4667W and a 720p HLS4666W was like $125 at Amazon, it made sense for me to go for the HLS version. From my looking at HLS models at Circuit City, they seem to put out more light and have a steeper contrast ratio, which makes things pop and look better. Of course, I was comparing a HLR that was probably sitting on the floor on for 12 hours daily for a year, whereas the HLS was probably used only a month. But still, the look and feel of the HLS series seemed nicer. With such a small price difference (as May 2006), I'd say go for the HLS with the faster color wheel, dual HDMI, and the black bezel. Just my n00bie $0.02.

Great. Now I'm considering the 2006 again. Amazon looks interesting too. Let me know how that turns out (your order). Hate not being able to return, if there is a problem though. I'm not sure what you mean about black bezel though. The HLR and HLS 46-inch models look physically identical to me. Black around the screen, but silver on the speakers. ?
post #134 of 1998
So there I was, with 35 friends and family in the room, getting ready to play the video montage I did for my daughter's graduation party (baby pictures and stuff). I turn on my brand new 5086 and the matching DVD-HD860 and all I got was "no signal detected". I futzed with it for a few minutes in front of the crowd and only got it to work when I pulled and reinserted the HDMI cable from the back of the DVD. No, it wasn't loose - I pushed it in before I decided to pull and reinsert.

Maybe it's a DVD player problem, or the cable, or turning the components on in the wrong order? I dunno. But it couldn't have picked a worse time to get flaky. Worked fine after that.
post #135 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dargason View Post

So there I was, with 35 friends and family in the room, getting ready to play the video montage I did for my daughter's graduation party (baby pictures and stuff). I turn on my brand new 5086 and the matching DVD-HD860 and all I got was "no signal detected". I futzed with it for a few minutes in front of the crowd and only got it to work when I pulled and reinserted the HDMI cable from the back of the DVD. No, it wasn't loose - I pushed it in before I decided to pull and reinsert.

Maybe it's a DVD player problem, or the cable, or turning the components on in the wrong order? I dunno. But it couldn't have picked a worse time to get flaky. Worked fine after that.

Yikes! Sometimes my 5086 will show the same message, but only when the dvd player's resolution is in a mode the TV can not display.
post #136 of 1998
How does SD look on the 5086? Surprisingly good, really. It's all about viewing distance. The scaler is very good and there's little artifacting. Flesh tones are natural. Yes, the picture is kinda blurry, but we're talking about making a crap image bigger so it goes with the territory. I'd say it looks as good at 10-12' as my VVega 27" did at 5-6'. Sensible, as the image height is almost double.

I should postfix this by saying I only watch SD in 4:3. Scaling it wide or using the zoom modes makes things messy. As the bezel is nice 'n black and that the sidebars are black (not grey), I don't find myself frettting about unused screen real-estate. As long as my HD & DVDs are wide, I'm good.

And as to the VGA modes, I'm using 1280x720 directly from the nVidia drivers. In the Sammy "settings" menu, there's an "autofit" option. I'm not getting 1:1 pixel mapping, but I'm getting ZERO overscan and my text is still plenty legible. No obvious artifacting. And just like with an LCD 'puter monitor, there are "fine tune" controls to shift the image about on a subpixel basis. Took maybe 3 minutes to get the video configured. My HTPC issues aren't picture/FFDShow related at all but the SPDIF from my stupid Audigy2. :-D
post #137 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dargason View Post

So there I was, with 35 friends and family in the room, getting ready to play the video montage I did for my daughter's graduation party (baby pictures and stuff). I turn on my brand new 5086 and the matching DVD-HD860 and all I got was "no signal detected". I futzed with it for a few minutes in front of the crowd and only got it to work when I pulled and reinserted the HDMI cable from the back of the DVD. No, it wasn't loose - I pushed it in before I decided to pull and reinsert.

Maybe it's a DVD player problem, or the cable, or turning the components on in the wrong order? I dunno. But it couldn't have picked a worse time to get flaky. Worked fine after that.

I have the HD860 and a s4666w. I have seen that message. Try pressing the video sel. button on the front of the machine. That changed it for me. That will change botht he output resolution and also whether progressive is on for 480 and 720. If you have it set to 720 output, but the progressive is off then the TV doesn't know what to do. That is my suggestion, might work, might not. Let me know how it turns out.
post #138 of 1998
Hi, I am in Canada and the HLS-XX66W models have not arrived here yet. I am definitely waiting to see one and from the posted comments it might be my number 1 choice. I phoned Samsung parts to find out how much a replacement lamp costs, but they could not tell me unless I provided the lamp code. They told me the lamp code is on the outside of the case and can vary from set to set. Apperantley samsung uses 2 or 3 different lamps in this series. Since some of you already own these sets, would you be willing to check the lamp code and post it here. I will phone Samsung and try to obtain the replacement part numbers and costs involved and post the info here. Thanks
post #139 of 1998
So my most important question about these sets (specifically the HL-S5086W) is, is there any type of lag issues on video games that run in 480i format? There were crazy issues with the HL-R5067W (which is the one I currently am looking to replace) and I was wondering if there was anything like that with with these newer ones?

Thanks for your help.
post #140 of 1998
Hey guys,

Can someone confirm that DNIe can be turned off/on on the HLS4266? It looks like from the thread it's possible, but the manual doesn't seem to mention it.

Thinking about picking one up this weekend and just wanted to be sure.

Thanks,
Bryan
post #141 of 1998
Thread Starter 
On my 5086 I can confirm that DNIe can be turned off/on. Not sure about the XX66, but from what I remember reading here, it can.
post #142 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanb View Post

Hey guys,

Can someone confirm that DNIe can be turned off/on on the HLS4266? It looks like from the thread it's possible, but the manual doesn't seem to mention it.

Thinking about picking one up this weekend and just wanted to be sure.

Thanks,
Bryan

the s4666w can turn off the DNIe and I assume the 42 would be exactly the same. There is even a button on the remote that says DNIe. It cycles through on, off, and demo (half screen on and half screen off).
post #143 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanb View Post

Can someone confirm that DNIe can be turned off/on on the HLS4266?

I have that model and it can be turned off.

Chris
post #144 of 1998
Thanks for the confirmation.

b
post #145 of 1998
DNIe does to help sharpen the picture a little. And they claim it helps with high speed video (motion), and a few other pluses.

DNIe does "crush" the blacks and that is not good, it really takes away from the picture. You can see the loss of black details in dark scenes.....black suits and dresses on very dark indoor pictures.

You can adjust contrast and sharpness to adjust (some) for some of the lost benefits; but not all of them.

DNIe, does have "on", "demo", and "off" settings. You can toggle (the selection is circular) between "on" and "off"..............that way you can see for yourself the sharpness and detail gains and well as the black loss. Note: It takes about TWO seconds for the picture to adjust - switch between on and off in dark scenes and you will see what I mean (Boston Legal - with someone wearing a black or dark blue suit).

Using demo mode is a waste of time and the picture is NOT the real "on" and "off" as indicated on the screen...........Only the "on" or "off" by them selves is real and again it takes two seconds for the picture to adjust after you have made the change.

Remember you can go from "on" to "off" and back again; by-passing "demo" mode all together.
post #146 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBones View Post

So my most important question about these sets (specifically the HL-S5086W) is, is there any type of lag issues on video games that run in 480i format? There were crazy issues with the HL-R5067W (which is the one I currently am looking to replace) and I was wondering if there was anything like that with with these newer ones?

Thanks for your help.

480i sources do experience a video delay issue (damn TiVo for not being able to do 480p). Actually, I have a slight issue with some games, even in 480p or 720p. MVP 2005 on the Xbox (1) now causes me some grief on pitching. It's a two click system where the first press starts the meter, then you hold down and let go at the top, then press again in the sweet spot. I have to hit earlier than I'm used to to get a good pitch. This feels the same in 720p and 480p, as well as with game mode on. NBA 2K6 has started giving me fits with the free throws. For this you pull the analog stick down to start the motion, then press up at the top of the motion. Again, I have to push up much earlier to get a good free throw. This is in 480p. It's not bad, and I don't have a DDR type game to really test this, but I've gone from nearly perfect at the free throw line (or pitches in MVP) to fairly mediocre. As I learn it gets easier, though. I'm not sure if a 360 has this type of issue, but reports seem to indicate the answer is no.

Actually, reports from others indicate they have no lag in 480p anyway, so I'm not sure if it's just me getting used to something else or what. I don't have the GetGray DVD to use his really good video delay pattern, so I can't say for sure that this isn't just in my head.
post #147 of 1998
Well got the TV in about a week ago.
So far been pretty happy. Still need to get in some component cables to hook up the DvD player, and im running on standard Crap cable.
Basically not using it to its fullest yet.

Everything looks really good though.
Still have buyers remorse for not just spending the extra $250 to get the 1080p version.
Even if I won't be able to tell a difference I still know its there .

Either way though, set is really pretty with no problems.
Testing out video games on it tomorrow.
post #148 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grudus View Post

Just got my HL-S4666 in from the TVA powerbuy yesterday. Really pleased with it so far with the exception of the noisy fan. How loud is the fan for everyone else? Right now I can hear the fan sitting 6-7 feet away from the set with the TV playing at a low to moderate level. Its about twice as loud as your typical PC case fan maybe little more.

Quick followup on this. Had the repair guy from Samsung out to check out the problem. Turns out it wasn't a noisy Fan at all but rather the Color Wheel itself. Since there are currently no parts available for this model yet to correct the problem Samsung is going to be sending me a replacement set. Should get a replacement in about 2 weeks or so. Thanks again for the replies everyone prompted me to get it checked out since it seemed abnormal.
post #149 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grudus View Post

Quick followup on this. Had the repair guy from Samsung out to check out the problem. Turns out it wasn't a noisy Fan at all but rather the Color Wheel itself. Since there are currently no parts available for this model yet to correct the problem Samsung is going to be sending me a replacement set. Should get a replacement in about 2 weeks or so. Thanks again for the replies everyone prompted me to get it checked out since it seemed abnormal.

Oh man, are you going to be without a TV for a while?
post #150 of 1998
Still works just noisy sometimes sounds like a little dremmel tool running inside the TV. They will pick up the old TV when they come to drop off the new TV so shouldn't be without a TV.
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