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Samsung 720p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx66W/HLSxx86W DLP Models - Page 6

post #151 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grudus View Post

Still works just noisy sometimes sounds like a little dremmel tool running inside the TV. They will pick up the old TV when they come to drop off the new TV so shouldn't be without a TV.

Nice! A rare happy ending to a bad situation.

Chris
post #152 of 1998
Does anyone here know which resolutions are supported on the HD inputs (component and HDMI)? I didn't see it in the Samsung manual.

Thanks,
b
post #153 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanb View Post

Does anyone here know which resolutions are supported on the HD inputs (component and HDMI)? I didn't see it in the Samsung manual.

Thanks,
b

Your set should take 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i inputs.
post #154 of 1998
Does anyone know if this set upconverts all signals to 720p?
post #155 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by panafreak View Post

Does anyone know if this set upconverts all signals to 720p?

All micro chip displays (DLP, LCoS, or LCD) have to convert all signals to their individual native resolution. In this case that is 720p.
post #156 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrisg View Post

NBA 2K6 has started giving me fits with the free throws. For this you pull the analog stick down to start the motion, then press up at the top of the motion. Again, I have to push up much earlier to get a good free throw. This is in 480p. It's not bad, and I don't have a DDR type game to really test this, but I've gone from nearly perfect at the free throw line (or pitches in MVP) to fairly mediocre. As I learn it gets easier, though.

I wanted to update this for anyone concerned. I've played NBA 2k6 some more and either gotten used to something or was imagining things in the first place. I'm still not as good from the line as I used to be, but with good free throw shooters the motion seems accurate, and with poor free throw shooters it seems fairly difficult. I remember this being the case on my CRT, but maybe I had played so much I didn't notice it, and did after a break from the game for several days. . .

I still have issues with MVP 2005, but I'm beginning to suspect it's something with that game and 480p/720p because I don't experience a video delay with anything else except 480i.
post #157 of 1998
Bought my HLS5086w from TVAuthority last week, got it today, very pleased with that end. I picked up a Comcast HD box this morning, immediately hooked it up and sat down to start enjoying my new TV. Well, first of all I find out I have a horrible cable signal, I can't tune in about half of the HD channels - No ESPN HD, no ABC or Fox HD, and not any of INHD or Discovery HD. So I called Comcast and set up a service appointment for them to come check on it, figured, that's not so bad. I pop in a DVD, hooked up with my monoprice HDMI to the TV, start enjoying a movie. It looks OK, not as good as I thought I remembered seeing on my neighbor's 50" HLR, figured it might be the cheap cable. As the movie went on I started to see some "noise" which got gradually worse. At first it only appeared in completely black areas, but it started to fill in over the entire screen. As I switched inputs I realized it was on every input, this creeping "Matrix" like effect started to cover the entire screen. Small white numbers and letters constantly changing now fill the entire screen, must be thousands of them. I called Samsung to schedule service, but I'm too far away from a service center so they have to make special arrangements, could take 5+ business days. So yeah, brand new TV worked great for about 5 hours. Anyone else hear of/have any problems like this?
post #158 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Sure. That's why I bought my TV. You're the first person to realize what makes HDTV so great.

Hours on hold/missing work for service calls/$2000 paper weights?
post #159 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by panafreak View Post

Does anyone know if this set upconverts all signals to 720p?

Everything thrown at it 480 thru 1080, goes to the screen as 720.

If you have a DVD player you will usually get best results setting it to 480i (the DVD Player), and let the Samsung do all the conversion work, and turn film mode "on" for the automatic 3:2 pull down, that option only lights up when the set is receiving a 480i signal, and then it will automatically detect it is receiving film.
post #160 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

Everything thrown at it 480 thru 1080, goes to the screen as 720.

If you have a DVD player you will usually get best results setting it to 480i (the DVD Player), and let the Samsung do all the conversion work, and turn film mode "on" for the automatic 3:2 pull down, that option only lights up when the set is receiving a 480i signal, and then it will automatically detect it is receiving film.

Houston - Really about not using the scaler on DVD players? I have a standard progressive DVD player. I've had a hard time deciding on, if I like to output progressive, or interlaced. The progressive seems more crisp and sharp to me. However, the interlaced seems to have deeper colors. Tough decisions!
post #161 of 1998
hey y'all. believe this or not, i saw a hls5065 at samsclub this morning????? i guess it's a special model just for sams. the case looked like the old hlr with the floating screen, but i'm 100% positive it said hls5065. it appeared to be new and was on a wooden pallet and did not have a price on it.
post #162 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayrton911 View Post

Houston - Really about not using the scaler on DVD players? I have a standard progressive DVD player. I've had a hard time deciding on, if I like to output progressive, or interlaced. The progressive seems more crisp and sharp to me. However, the interlaced seems to have deeper colors. Tough decisions!

Of course every situation is different............on the Samsung side for a DVD input I have it set to "movie" mode (DNIe is "off" you don't have a choice).........DNR "on"......and film mode (3:2 pulldown) is "on".

Every time time I have tested this on a DVD player from $40 to $350, I have always gotten a slightly better picture with the DVD player set to its native 480i output. That only applies to the "current" 720p and 1080p made over the last year and half (I have only done this on Sammy, Sony, and Mit's).........just a few short years ago, you had to send the TV the best you could from the DVD player (whatever it could do). My dad has an old Mit's CRT RPTV 1080i - yes in that case have the DVD player send over the best you can send it, because the 480i will be real bad.

I know I am going against the grain on this but that is just me, I am extremely hard headed. But I really do believe the new sets do great do all the conversion work.

Um, you know that last time I tested that was on the Mit's WD52628, and decided it was best that way.......so I just hooked up the HL-S4266 the same way and it looked great to me...................if I have time perhaps I should go re-test...........btw I am only using a S-Video cable on it - it only does the 480i on that cable anyway........the couple of times I tried it with the component I could not tell a difference.............yes, you talked me into it, time for another re-test.
post #163 of 1998
Hi all,

I got the HLS5086W delivered on Saturday and have been enjoying it. However, I'm having a problem with the sound matching up with the picture. I have the cable hooked up over HDMI. I often switch to a channel and the sound isn't even close to matching up with their lips. Is there a way to stop this from happening?

So far I haven't been able to figure it out. It happens on regular cable and HDTV channels.

Thanks

Nicole
post #164 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by unoriginal12 View Post

Hi all,

I got the HLS5086W delivered on Saturday and have been enjoying it. However, I'm having a problem with the sound matching up with the picture. I have the cable hooked up over HDMI. I often switch to a channel and the sound isn't even close to matching up with their lips. Is there a way to stop this from happening?

So far I haven't been able to figure it out. It happens on regular cable and HDTV channels.

Thanks

Nicole


2 things.

1. Is it TV sound or from a reciever?
2. If a reciever where is the sound coming from? Directly from STB or from the TV?

If using a reciever, some allow you to change the delay to match the TV and compensate for video processing delays. Hopefully that is all you need to do. Good luck.
post #165 of 1998
Just wanted to continue with my saga. In our last episode I had talked with Samsung and explained to them the problem, they told me that because I was outside of the 50 mile service center radius (58 miles) that they would put through a special work order and it would take 5-8 days to contact me and set up a repair service call. 2 work days later they called me and wanted to know if my problem occured on all inputs (which it does, and which I had pointed out in the first call - it even appears when there is no signal on the input, i.e. I disconnect the HDMI cable from the DVD player and remain on the HDMI input on the TV.) and if I had closed captioning turned on, which of course, I didn't. To which they said they would set up a service call. 58 Miles Away. Back in touch in 5+ days. I asked what happened to my service call I set up 2 working days ago, they said they didn't put the order through because they wanted to ask me the question about closed captioning. I asked why that question wasn't answered when I explained the problem occured on all inputs, when there was no signal, and that the entire screen was obscured by the problem. He siad they just wanted to check. I'm really learning to hate Samsung.
post #166 of 1998
Ryan - WHat happens if you're even further from a repair center? Can they say they cannot do a repair then?
post #167 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayrton911 View Post

Ryan - WHat happens if you're even further from a repair center? Can they say they cannot do a repair then?

Actually, the guy on the phone told me that if you're too far from a repair center (and they don't ok the extra milage) they send out some sort of special Samsung engineer, which is the best support you can get. Go figure.
post #168 of 1998
Quote:
Originally Posted by brg606 View Post

hey y'all. believe this or not, i saw a hls5065 at samsclub this morning????? i guess it's a special model just for sams. the case looked like the old hlr with the floating screen, but i'm 100% positive it said hls5065. it appeared to be new and was on a wooden pallet and did not have a price on it.


The HLS5065 now appears on the Samsung website, along with several other models I hadn't seen before (some 1080P).
post #169 of 1998
Ok, my 4266 will be here in a week! I also picked up the DVDHD860. A few quick questions. Does the 860 work well? And how do you have it set? Meaning 480i and let the set do everything (which seems weird since that is what you are paying for in the player but someone else mentioned it) or 720p or 1080i. I would think 720p would be best as it is the set's native resolution. Any other DVD players that anyone reccommends?

ps Would there be any reason to get the 960 which outputs 1080p? To a 720p set I would say no. But it does have Faroudja DCDi circuitry, which might provide a better picture on the non-1080p outputs as well?

Thanks guys.
post #170 of 1998
First, I was watching the NBA east finals in HD last night and also the Fast and Furious(not my fav movie but in HD it's not bad). Each was just awesome pq! This was with ota antenna.

For DVDs, I am using a progressive scan dvd player with component cables. I don't know what it is set to output and don't even know how to set the output on it.

I have tried different p.modes and all seem too dark in dark scenes. I even tried increasing the brightness on the custom mode but that kind of ruined the overall picture?

Also, I thought that we were buying widescreens so we don't have to worry about black bars with dvds? When I watched the Fast and Furious on Fox last night in took up the whole screen, but when I put in a couple of DVDs, u571, spiderman, Kingdom of Heaven, they still did not fit my screen and had to be adjusted?
post #171 of 1998
I have noticed that my screen is to dark as well on my 5086. Like you said, you can turn the brightness way up, but this just washes out the picture. Watching CSI is almost unbearable as that entire show is mostly dark scenes to begin with. On the flip side, watching the Finals has been amazing...even though my Spurs got knocked out. Anyone care to share what settings they use to get a good image in dark scenes?
post #172 of 1998
blkwidow02 and lorax22,

From a tech stand point it is not that picture if too black. If you look at an all black picture in a dark room (toggle source or go to a black source), you will notice it is actually a medium grey. I good black picture would be as black as the black frame to the TV, as you can tell it is not.

The bottom 20% of the blacks are rolled up into a dark medium grey (crushed blacks); therefore you can not see the detail on black or dark blue or green suits or dresses...........it's just not there.

If you are watching evening prime time like Boston Legal, or CSI, with lots of indoor super black scenes.........set the TV to Movie mode. and adjust brightness and contrast slightly ( reduce contrast a little and maybe reduce brightness just a little, set the temp to warm 1 or perhaps normal. That will help some, and on a 50" or larger should make it acceptable. When you get all the way down to 42" it is even harder to get good blacks out of the set.

The picture attached is what I use for HL-S4266, and I use that setting for all viewing, unless there is a lot of lights on or a lot of sunlight in the room.

The new 720p Mits sets (Sept or Oct), will have the automatic iris, which should produces blacks as good as their 1080p sets........the Mit's 50" modes is only $100 more than the Samsung.......I think the contrast ratio will either be the 5,000 or 10,000 to 1. The current 720p Samsung is only 2,500 to 1

Setting the Samsung to Movie Mode forces the DNIe to "off" and that will expand the blacks a little - it is about a 30% solution, and should make the black issue on 50" and larger screens a non-issue.
LL
post #173 of 1998
Thanks for the great info and making it easy to understand.

What about the bars on dvds? Widescreen movies are not made in 16:9? Do I really have to watch these movies in zoom and still have bars on the top and bottom?
post #174 of 1998
lorax22, DVD pictures come in many shapes and sizes..........for almost all of them I place the format at stretch 1.........unless it is an exact matching 16:9. So that means all of the 4:3 I watch at stretch 1, and some of the super short 16:9's as well, but if it is a matching 16:9 then I use the 16:9

When using the stretch 1 there is only a tiny amount of cropping, and the picture is not distorted and it fills the screen.......makes the 4:3 DVD's look great.

The answer that the last question is yes, if the widescreen is not an exact match to the 16:9, then your only two good choices are 16:9 (black bars top and bottom) or the stretch 1, which means you get some cropping.

I sort of feel in a few short years, both DVD and BluRay's will be providing a better match to the HDTV 16:9 format...........time will tell.
post #175 of 1998
Widescreen DVDs are usually at 2.35:1 (wider than 16:9), so as HoustonPerson says, you either have to watch them with top/bottom bars or use a zoom mode and deal with some clipping on the sides.
post #176 of 1998
Somebody push me over the edge....Help me take the plunge!

I've got my eye on a Sammy HLS4666W and just haven't been able to pull the trigger. I'm sure others on here have been in the same boat. Never spent this much on a TV before.

A 46 inch TV is the max we can fit in our space. So that's really what brought me to the Sammy DLP's in the first place. I want the most screen I can get for my dollar.

We currently have an old 27 inch Zenith that's over 10 years old. I'm not too into all this high def & high res yet. Basically, I want a good looking TV that isn't going to be obsolete in 3 years, but I don't really think I need 1080 resolution.

The main thing holding me back is the bulb life & replacement. Not really sure why. Is it a hassle to replace those things? And how much does it really cost? I could deal with a couple hundred bucks...but I've seen some people claim it cost them $400. That would start to get excessive. Part of me says that by the time I need to repalce a bulb 2-3 years from now, they'll probably be alot cheaper because there will be new technology out anyways by then (LED DLP?)

Basically, we've reached the point where I want to buy a new TV and I really only want to spend about $1,500-$1,600. In wanting as much screen as possible, that takes plasmas and LCD's out of the mix. So I'm left with the DLP's or going back to a '34 or '36 inch conventional TV. I really feel like buying one of those TV's is really just treading water and wouldn't be a step in the right direction.

Anybody out there got the HLS4666W? Happy with it? I've had the darn thing in my cart like 3 times and just haven't been able to hit the confirm button.
post #177 of 1998
I have the HL-S4266 and it is the same as the 46", except the 46" will do just a bit better on handling blacks..........generally equal or better to most other products out there on handling blacks, but not best in class like a 1080p set - IMO. You may only notice the short coming on blacks in a dark room, with lights on, and/or sunlight it is not a problem.

The bulb list for about $230, and it is a DIY and is very easy to do. (HLR bulbs list for $199)

The HLS is among the best in these areas; clarity, sharpness, brightness, high speed motion, gaming, up and down converting with best in class results, fast tuning - about 2 seconds or less (some brands can take almost a minute and average for many is 10-15 seconds.

Lots of inputs of all kinds, that are very flexible.

Very good built in sound system. Many HDTV's have poor sound systems.
post #178 of 1998
tts, i'd get the biggest size you can fit (46"). if not you'll regret it later i bet. i was debating between a 50" and 56" and ended up getting the 56". now when i see a 50" it seems very small.

btw, at that size, you do not need 1080p imo.
post #179 of 1998
Thanks for those thoughts.

I really think '46 will be a good size.

I found some pretty good prices (I think) for it. Can get the HLS4666W delivered to my door, brand new for around $XXXX. Seems like a great price.

Still having a tough time making the decision. I've been to the final checkout point twice and just haven't been able to pull the trigger.

We just got digital cable though and have about 15 HD channels available. I'd love to be able to take full advantage.

The bulb thing still bothers me some. Where d oyou even get those replacement bulbs? If they were easily replaced, I guess it isn't a big deal. We've had to do some minor reapirs to our current TV over the years so I guess it's to be expected.

I've viewed both the HLR 46 model and the HLS model. I really like the brighter screen on the new model. I though the old one was a little dark.

I have to make a decision soon. I'm spending way too much time thinking about it. But I want to be comfortable that I'm getting a pretty solid TV for the money.

Now I'm not a huge TV buff or anything. Basically, only watch movies, a few primetime shows, and sports on the weekends. And I really don't see myself getting too hung up on minor details. Heck, everything looks amazing to me when I walk into BB or CC compared to what I have now.

Thanks again for any input. Helps having perspectives of people who already have a similar set and more experience in the HDTV arena.
post #180 of 1998
If you're an extended warranty kind of guy, Best Buy's covers one lamp replacement, which is well over half the cost of the warranty.
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