Philips DVDR3455H/37 - Page 23

Helpful thanks

Hi:

Is it possible to dub from a DVD to the HDD in order to edit on the Phillips DVDR3575H/37? Thanks!

Greg

Yes, different ways depending on whether the DVD is Finalized or not, as described here, under "Dubbing DVD-to-HDD - Unfinalized and Finalized Discs" towards bottom of page..

Hi,

I want to use Philips DVDR3455H/37 in India and hence need PAL Tuner.

Will it be ok if I buy the US version - Philips DVDR3455H/37B - and apply the Philips DVDR3455H/75 firmware that I get from Philips website.

Philips DVDR3455H/75 does have PAL Tuner.

Please help. I shall buy it only if it would work. Any ideas.

Thanks,
ganb

Has anybody been able to find the remote discreet codes for DVDR3455H for changing inputs (CAM1, CAM2, EXT1, EXT2) and power on / power off?

Thanks,
Maxxy

I discover USB port work with flash memory and external HDD and usb hub!
So I can connect external HDD 500gb, and any flash memory sticks...

I put my movies in folder by name(its cant read file name) and play volume of folder and only AVI file extention (I try DIVX- dont work)
how to:
need connect HDD to unit or try usb hub
press- USB/DV(2time) on remote
will open screen Directory
press ok
select folder name (or just play from volume of HDD)
press dislplay on remote- open menu (for play picture music or video)
on scree select: 1.type- video , 2.trick - play and OK

If someone find how to make visible files plz let me know
I practice one week now, so far all work ok and exelent quality!

this is an old thread but would like to elaborate on what ive found on this sticky problem. i took the top of my dvd burner off and it seems that there is a piece of metal on the white disc stablizer on the top of the case, this piece of metal connects magnetically with disc spindle and when you push eject the magnetism is too strong to allow the spindle to drop out of the trays way. that is why when you put a disc in it will still open, because its just enough weight to break the magnetism. that is all the info i have for now. maybe it COULD be firmware that would allow the magnetism to temporlarily cease for the tray to open. i will continue to try and find a solution. good luck folks!

I have the DVDR3455H and I have exactly the same problem! Whenever I try to open the drawer, I get the message BLOCKED. Sometimes I could pry it open and it would pop out, but I never knew what the problem was. I finally opened the case and after dissecting the DVD drive, found the magnet problem. I even disassembled the upper clutch: it has two metal discs in side to connect to the magnet in the lower half of the clutch. If you remove one of the metal discs, the magnet is not strong enough to engage the clutch and the drive fails to spin up.

I am trying to find a replacement drive now, it's the wxd-9332 sourced from ASATECH (www dot asatech dot cc), but they don't answer email.

I have logged a call with Philips and they are supposed to call me back, but I am not hopeful they will offer the drive as a replacement part.

Somewhere else I read that the same drive is in the DVDR3390, so I may just buy one of those to scavenge the drive and get mine working again.

Any advice or new info would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-stephen
Washington DC

FullOnShred wrote "If you press and hold the "Stop" button for a few seconds it will both open and close the DVD Tray. I forgot not everyone knows that. I think I read it somewhere other than the manual myself." That is brilliant! I have a Philips 3430V so I realise I am off thread, but this works on my remote too. My problem is that all the buttons on the front of the machine have ceased to respond. Everything else works fine from the remote, but it has (so I thought) no eject buttons. The need to repair it is now much less urgent, but does anyone have any suggestions cheaper than the £45 I have had quoted for 'seeing what might be done', Thanks. And thanks again for the hint.

1. Philips sent me a letter that the DVD drive is not available.

2. Somewhere else I read the obvious (and embarrassing) solution to the DVD drawer not opening: always keep a disc in it!! Duh! So now I have a "dummy" DVD which sits on top of the unit while I'm viewing and goes right into the tray as soon as the real one is removed. Problem solved (and for a lot less than $90 for a DVR3390 from which to scavenge the DVD drive)!

You are certainly welcome.

From the American Southwest, Hi All...Have chosen the snake icon since I nearly stepped on a rattler on my drive late one night while walking the dog 11-01-08...Haven't seen any before at 3000'...Diamondbacks hang out down in the valley...Guess it's one of those unanticipated Global Warming side effects...

This may ramble on a bit, but you've all been so helpful maybe I can return the favors...

Down to business...

I've got two DVDR 3455H/37s purchased mid to late '06. Both drives crapped out about 4 or 5 months ago. Also have a Polaroid 2001G, purchased a tad earlier, my one remaining operational DVDRHDD...sort of - more later on this "gem" of electronic design...and a Magnavox MDR10D6 DVD recorder, no HDD...

On 3455H PAL avilabiliity - can't check directly on either of my units just now as I unhooked them after drive failures, but manual p.70 shows NTSC and PAL as available options for the TV system...

For those tearing their hair out trying to open the slides of malfunctioning drives...underside of the unit directly under the drive there's an inch and a half long slot...insert a small blade screwdriver on the right end to engage a switch that will open the drive's slide when moved right to left...discs can then be inserted or removed...no need to use screwdriver a second time, just push slide closed...this, however will not afftect the unit in any other way...it will not reset units that have seized...unplugging is the only way...

For those unable to burn discs or save new titles off the buffer when the HDD is nearly full...you'll need to put your unit in "Record to Hard Disc" mode as an active buffer continues to fill the HDD effectively locking it up for further operations...only way I know how to switch to this mode is to schedule a 1 min timed recording beginning immediately...(I stop recording after a second or two) then you can pull up the HDD and delete/edit/archive to discs without the buffer continuing to stuff the HDD while you're freeing up some space...you can keep from activating the buffer before you switch back to the tuner by scheduling another 1 min recording before leaving the HDD screen...the inability to use the remote to switch back and forth between the buffer and record direct to HDD is a definite design flaw...the Polaroid allows this, making jerking around with the 1 min recordings unecessary...but here's another little tidbit that I discovered with the Polaroid that may be of use with the Philips...despite being in the direct to HDD mode, and having plently of HDD space, when my HDD hits 245 titles the unit will not record any new titles, the reason may be that each title, no matter how small it is takes up a small amount of extra space that doesn't show on the HDD menu and may fill up operatioal RAM?...any other insight on this would be helpful...any of you DVDR Wizards (the title is used with the greatest respect) got any ideas on this?

My experinece with DVDRW+/-R vs DVD+/-R...Having three brands I find that what the manuals say about having to finalize discs to play on other machines (at least in my experience) is not really correct...the DVDRWs and the DVDRs play 99% consistently on all three brands without finalizing whether the disc is full or not...it's the recording that can get a bit fussy from brand to brand...partially filled DVDRs record back and forth on all my units 99% of the time...with each new recording each brand switches the menu, or individual pages of the menu to its format...DVDRWs can sometimetimes be fooled into recording new titles on another brand by paging up to the disc menu and unfinalizing the disc (even if you hadn't finalized it before)...

As with all computers these machines sometimes get quirky...one of my Philips prefers DVDR/RW+ the other DVDR/RW-...it doesn't mean I can't play and record each on both machines, but recording the non-preferred +/- yields a greater % of seizures/disc wipeouts...

I've found on both Philips and Polaroid I can go to the HDD edit/title while recording to the HDD - most of the time no problemo...Sometimes this seizes the unit, but not necessarily the recording to HDD, but at that point it's up for grabs as to whether the HDD is recording or not...if most of the recording has been done and I can't trace back to the beginning of the program with Comcast's DVR I let it be till the end of the time slot, then see what I've got after unplug/reset...

Ths is not the case with HDD edit/title while burning to discs, apparently placing stress on the tiny computers in these units yielding a greater % of seizures/disc wipeouts...

My Polaroid Drive hangs up on the in-slide perhapps 20% of the time. If it's recording and needs to free up space the only way to make it operational is to shut the unit off...If it's a movie I'm SOL, something informational like CSPAN a two part recording will do...

And lastly, I did try another drive externally on one of my Philips, A Sony NEC Optiarc AD-7200A...it lit up, slide moved in/out, but my HDD didn't display...I'm going to try again using the Firmware upgrade disc...will let y'all know what happens...

TTFN

Hi,

I just put a new hard drive in my unit. With the new hard drive in the unit, it would be in a reboot loop until I put in the firmware cd (downloaded and burned to a disk). It then read the cd and installed the firmware and the loader just fine here's the steps:

1. Power up the recorder and open the DVD tray.
2. Insert the prepared upgrade CD-ROM.
3. Close the tray and the recorder will auto read the disc.
4. Upon recognize the disc, the local display of recorder will show "FLASH 1". The TV screen will show a dialog box titled "Disc Upgrade".
5. Note: The recorder will indicate "Unknown Disc" in the following 2 situations.
- When the software upgrade is not meant for your recorder (Check the applicable models above).
- Problem with writing of CD-ROM. Try again with a different CD-ROM if possible.
6. To proceed with the Upgrade, press on the remote control. You can cancel the upgrade at this point by navigating to CANCEL button on TV and pressing on the remote control.
7. If you proceed with the upgrade, the upgrading status will be shown on the TV screen.
8. The whole process takes about 1 minute after which the local display of recorder shows "DONE" and the dialog box on TV screen indicates successful upgrading. The tray will be ejected.
9. Remove the CD-ROM before pressing on the remote control. The recorder should close the tray and restart automatically after about 10 seconds.
10. Note: Do not press any buttons or interrupt the mains supply during the entire upgrading process, otherwise the recorder may become defective.
11. Note: Sometimes, the recorder does not close the tray. Do not be alarmed. Simply press on the remote control to wake up the recorder and the tray will close immediately.
12. It is better to power off and on the recorder again after software upgrade before using the recorder.

Now I have 500gb and the unit it working better than ever Hope this helps people trying to replace the hard drive!

Hey, that's great, a bunch of us with the newer 3575/76 and Magnavox clone recently figured out how to do a upgrade on our units too. I think you folks have known about yours for a while.
I put a left over 250 in mine and am testing it out, so far so good. I hope they don't give up on hard drive equipped units here in the US, we'll just have to keep modding and fixing our old ones soon I think

I got one of these as a hand me down. It works great. But I want to upgrade the HDD too. What kind of HDD do I buy? Will a SATA work? Or does it need older HDD like IDE/PATA/ATA100/ATA133 whatever they call them.

IDE, the 2001g uses a older western Digital 80 gig 2 meg cache 7200 rpm drive made for dvr's but as long as it's a IDE drive and doesn't draw too much juice it should work in both.

I am getting absolutely stellar burns from Verbatim Made In Taiwan DVD-R 16x discs that come in the Bright Orange/Bright Blue wrappers. I bought these at OfficeMax on sale months ago. My Philips absolutely loves them. Best scans of any media I have ever burned in this unit incl. Taiyo Yuden 8x -R Premium from Rima, Sony MIJ Yuden + and -Rs in 8x and 16x and Sony08 and D21-R media. Even better than Memo-Wrecks.

I own a Philips DVDR3455H/37 160GB DVR/DVDR. I've had the sticky tray issues for months, maybe over a year. I found this thread (and this forum) searching for spare parts and tech support for this unit.

I've used it like that for the longest time with the try problem, but have been able to get it open by prying on it gently. Over time, it became increasingly difficult, and the front tray covered eventually popped off. It wasn't long after that, that I simply couldn't get it opened. We've just not used it since.

My wife recently recorded a program, and promised her sister that I would burn it to DVD for her. Not knowing that I was no longer able to get the tray open. They both have been determined to get this program to DVD, so today I decided to have a closer look. I began operating on the unit, had the DVDR drive removed and playing with it, and had a better understanding of how it was hanging up, but was unable to fix it. I started searching eBay for spare parts (and didn't find any). I continued looking for additional info. That's when I found this forum.

After reading some of the tips/tricks, I decided that I probably would not be able to fix it, and began to reassemble it. Unfortunately, as I was reinstalling the DVD drive, the underside of the drive came in contact with the electronics board that rests in the back corner of the unit. Yes, I still had it powered up. BIG mistake on my part. I saw a small blue spark. The rest is history. The unit now will not power up. At all. I was hoping that it was a simple fuse, but after looking around and not finding anything, I'm finding myself in a bit of a panic. I fear that I've fried the whole unit.

I'm in misery thinking about the potential loss. PLEASE, someone give me some magical cure. I'm open to any/all advice.

Thanks!
Tom

Looks like it is time to buy a 3575. Sorry. But that was not a smart move. Not piling on, just saying......

You may?? be able temporarily install your 3455 drive in a 3576 to off load to DVD your important hdd programs, of course that may void the 3576 warranty so you may want to think it over.
I agree sparks are a bad sign. If it wasn't a fuse your 3455 is probably shot but probably not the HDD.

I could not find a fuse anywhere in the system. I'm hoping to find a used 3455 on eBay that may have a bad HDD or something, but I find that highly unlikely.

Is there something other than a 3576 (or 3455) that can read the data on the drive, such as my PC? ...and if so, can my PC do anything with it?

The formatting on the HDD of DVDRs seems to be very proprietary, you can't just hook it up to a PC and read anything off it. I read a post from someone on AVS who was able to use some type of hex converter program and get things off his HDD one at a time but it was very difficult and time consuming. I also believe he was using a Panasonic so Philips may different.
I would assume all Philips/Magnavox/Funai machines would use a similar format which is why I suggested a Philips 3576 or I also believe Funai makes a couple cheaper DVDRs w/hdds that may or may not be available at any given time. I would think just swapping the HDDs would be relatively safe as long as you unplugged the machines Read Wajo's sticky thread for information about replacing HDDs in the Philips machines.

Yes, unplug. Check. I think I would be quite comfortable swapping out a drive.

I see several refurb 3455 units on eBay, most of them $180+ (and new ones ranging from $280 to $300+), but there is one for $160 plus shipping. That still hurts to shell out that much, but it is almost worth is so that I can drop my HDD into it, and basically hit the ground running. I'm not sure if I want another 3455 though, knowing that the drive tray problems are so common. I would certainly prefer to go with a 3576 or something similar/updated/newer, but from the quick searches I've made, those appear to be considerably more expensive.

I see some hard drives listed for the 3576, which also list 3575. Is there a 3575 model too I presume?

So what I'm gathering, my drive (my format) will just drop into any of these units? Has it been done before?

I'd consider trying to dig up one of the Funai(?) units as well, if I could find a deal and I knew it would work.

Appreciate all the help!

These are the main threads where the Philips/Magnavox 3575/3576/2080/2160 HDD/DVD recorders, including hard drive replacement procedures for these models, are being discussed. (All these models are designed by Philips and manufactured by Funai.).

Wajo's 3575/3576/2160 sticky thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940657

A Magnavox 2160 thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1054933

A Philips 3575 thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=830253

A Magnavox 2080 thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=920073

The 3575 is just predecessor to the 3576, very similar units.
AFA the HDD swapping you may want to read Wajo's sticky. I know people are replacing the HDDs in several of the newer Funai DVDRs but I was only speculating a drive(recorded on) from one model would read in another. The raw drives seem interchangeable but you really should get conformation before you try your 3455 drive an anything other than another 3455.

I've been reading this one (per previous suggestion). It's been educational and helpful (thank you very much!), but I've not found the specifics I need yet (I think).

I may resort to another 3455 because its my only "Known" at the moment. I'll give it a little more time first though, just to see what the possibilities are.

I think the 3455 may have been the last non-Funai-made model, so the chance that anything about them would be cross-compatible might not be so good.

I don't think the old Toshiba's and the newer, Funai-made ones are, are they?

You have a good point Ramm, if that's true hdd drive compatibility would probably be a issue. AFAIK the old and new Toshibas are totally different. In fact I believe I've read even unfinalized discs cannot be shared between the old and new Toshibas. The old and new Philips may very well be the same.

Hmmm... the more info I get, the more it looks like an old 3455 refurb might be my only realistic route (or if a used one happens to come along eBay for a deal, but I'm not holding my breath).

There is a fuse and it's on that square circuit board at the left rear of the unit right inder the power cord. The fuse, a T3.15A/250V is just to the right of the power cord along the rear wall. Mine has a piece of yellow tape wrapped around the center, is 3/4" long with leads attached at right angles soldered into the board.

As for your other problem, the POS asatech burner, if you've successfully reassembled it, as other posts have already pointed out you'll need to keep a dummy DVD in it to open the slide, and a side-to-side switch in a slot underneath the 3455 (my post p23) if you forget the dummy or when that doesn't work either, as it won't all the time. This will will work for a while, but this is a substandard device with a limited life span.

FYI - A few weeks ago after seeing Falcon's post #585 P20 where he details using a Sony AD7170A burner externally fairly successfully, I gave Philips a call, got through to a guy who called himself a "Subject Matter Expert" who promised to research the characteristics of the asatech and get back to me so I could find a matchup since Philips won't supply replacement burners (not that anyone IMHO in their right mind would buy that same POS). In any case he did phone me back but I couldn't take his call just then. When I returned the call I wasn't put through to him, and was given the impression I never would be again. After insisting, I got some mgmt chick who said Philps policy is to not make that info avail. Went round and round w/her on the lack of wisdom treating customers like **** does for future business. Asked for CEO's phone number she predictably gave me an addr for "suggestions". Ended by telling her I'd never buy another Philips anything and I'd tell all relatives, friends, aquaintances, yada yada.

So...since I'd previously tried a Sony Optiarc detailed in my earier post P23 w/o success, I rolled the dice, ordered a LITE-ON from newegg.com #27-106-269 -- $27.99 free shipping. I find this burning fine with <1% errors, and I hate to point out Philips has a hand in it's design which is why I picked it. Hey, I'll always hate Philips but Mamma didn't raise no fool. As with Falcon's Sony it won't fit inside, but instead of placing it on top of the 3455 I've got a long IDE cable out the back of the unit over the power cord to hook up the LITE-ON beside the 3455 on the left. I've done this for a couple reasons: 1) it looks better, black face and gray housing of the burner is a close match to the 3455, and 2) Heat - even the small amount of heat the burner can pick up from the top of the 3455 can increase burn errors. Drives intended for inside installations are meant to be cooled by the venturi effect produced by fans sucking hot air out and cooler air in from vent holes in computers and the underside of the 3455. I've also got it below all my other AV equip on a wire shelf with a fan blowinng across the top and bottom. The breeze also covers the Polaroid DVDR which has always been prone to overheating, and which I replaced the interior fan with a better one that turns more slowly but moves more air with wider blades, making less noise. Maybe you folks up north don't need to go to these measures, what with dialing back on the thermostat to save expensive heating oil.