Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 343

No one is asking asking you to explain why you are asking, they are asking for specifics on the issue.

1) What is the test that supposedly failed?

2) What are the symptoms?

3) What are the video inputs caysing the issue?

Vaguely referring to a vague test with a vague date and vague fix is not helping you get an answer.

If you WANT answers you need to ask COMPLETE questions. Sometime ago some test maybe some fix is UNSATISFACTORY. You are wasting EVERYONE's time including YOURS.

Issue, dates, inputs, anomalies. No one here tracks other vendor tests and if you want an answer there is no way to answer without more info.

It is very possible that you will never see it period.

All of us Anthem Owners are very happy with both the
VIDEO and AUDIO quality of our D2 or AVM50.

I sold a DVDO VP-50 Video Processor which passed every
video test. I sold my Lexicon MC-12b Pre/Pro. I replaced
both of those top-end units with a D2 and have never been
more happy. I'm using a Sony 1080p PJ on a 156" screen.
So if there is something NOT NICE TO SEE - I would see it.

In the Real World of Viewing - it is Nirvana.

I use to build racing engines. We always Dyno Tested each
engine. A lot of race car drivers would do what we call
"RACE THE DYNO SHEET"

The Race Driver thought if it made more HP on the Dyno
That it was better. In the real world on a race track - it might
have been a total dog.

JUDGE FOR YOURSELF and TEST Discs from any source does
not necessarily reflect your Real World Viewing.

Like Tim says - Don't worry about some obscure test or corner
case that you would not see in Real World Viewing.

I recall the issue with the HD HQV test he is talking about. It was a particular pattern of images with a particular cadence that caused the Gennum processor to not pick up on the cadence quickly enough (or something like that).

One of the posters here wrote to the Gennum folks who responded that they had seen the result with the new test disc, that they didn't believe that particular test was relevant to how the Gennum processor would respond to real world imaging which happened to be presented at that cadence (since it was critically dependent upon the images used in that test), but that they had determined that a relatively minor change in the settings for their current stuff would make the Gennum pass that specific test without doing harm to its other, more normal, processing. And that they were going to alert their OEMs to roll that setting change into their next product updates.

The question is whether Anthem has done so.

Again, the word from the Gennum folks was that this was not a change that would have any benefit except making sure the processor passed this specific test -- to avoid confusing folks who happened to run that test as to whether there was a problem they should worry about.

The test in question on that disc is detailed in a set of posts in this thread. I don't have the time right now to go search for it.

If anyone here with the latest Anthem software installed also happens to have that HD HQV test disc, it would be easy enough to run that test (once someone finds the posts here) and report back. But even if it DOESN'T pass yet, I'm comfortable that the Gennum people have correctly presented the situation -- i.e., it is nothing to worry about except for bragging rights regarding being able to play those constructed test sequences without failures, faults or funnies. Imaging/processing quality in normal use with real world content is not, apparently, at issue.
--Bob

Bob (and everybody else) I am truly sorry my questions were so vague. I should have included the posts in the first place. This thread is overwhelming. I guess I just assumed that all the avid owners that post here would be aware of every issue. This was unreasonable and posting as I did was inconsiderate. Above are the posts that were the basis for my question. I found these by searching, and then I searched to see if the answer had already been posted, so I am not completely lazy and inconsiderate.

Now I'm hoping that when I do become an ANTHEM OWNER I won't have to come back under a new name

There ya go. Now we just need someone who already has the latest Anthem software installed (V1.21x) AND has a copy of the HD version of the HQV test disc, to run that test and report back.

Any takers?
--Bob

Anyone using RS-232 to control their D2?

I'm overwhelmed by the shear number of commands available. I've never seen anything like it. About 70 pages worth. In a league of its own.

Wondering about real world experience. Any connectivity issues, reliability, etc? Hints?

It will be used when my theater is finished with an AMX Netlinx system. Until then, I want to test drive it with my PC.

I'm using RS-232 control on my D2. I started out with a PC based system using Girder and Netrmote. I've since switched over to an RTI system. The RS-232 control has been rock solid. As for the number of commands, you are correct...they are a bit overwhelming. I would suggest focusing on just the Zone1 commands first on the list. Most of the commands are repeated in the list for Zone2 and Zone3.

One Cool thing to look for is the command that allows you to write custom text on the D2's OSD. You can trigger it to popup a message like "Garage Door Open" or "Motion on West side of House" using RS-232. It shows up just like the volume and sound info does on the screen. It's pretty cool. I had girder showing inside and otuside temeratues on the OSD with a press of a certain button....and a motion detector message if my daughter were to open her door upstairs....when were are in the theater, and she should be in bed sleeping

I'll have to look into Girder and Netrmote. I've not heard of them.

Not really overwhelmed by the amount of commands. Just impressed.

Now just have to make sure I can get my PC to communicate with the Anthem. It worked for firmware, so I'm not terribly concerned. Just need to get the syntax correct.

Not really a reply-new question. I own the Anthem AVM 50 and matching amp, plus a 2 channel Onkyo for rears and am now building a new ht room with the new Marantz VP 15S1 and Vienna Accoustics Waltz, Maestro and mozart grands, coupled with a JL Audio Fathom f112 sub and an Infinity sub. Screen is 96" x 54" Vutec. My dealer happens to have a new open box D2 with a wide face where the buyer preferred narrow. I can trade in my AVM 50 for the D2 for an extra $1650. Is it worth it?

I'd say yes, if for no other reason than it looks like the room EQ software for the D2 is just about to ship (for roughly $300 more including the mic). It's a fair price, particularly if it is treated as a "new" unit, and you are getting a new warranty.
--Bob

If anyone gets one of the new Samsung BD-UP5000 combo HD-DVD & Blu-Ray players (that just started shipping) for use with an AVM-50 or D2 I'd be interested in reading your results.

It appears that the unit is going to need a firmware upgrade -- which is supposed to be coming "real soon now" -- for Blu-Ray Player Profile 1.1 compliance, for internally decoding Dolby TrueHD to more than 2 channels on HDMI PCM output, and for internally decoding DTS-HD MA at all on HDMI PCM output.

However, it also appears that all of this stuff is promised, which could make this a very interesting player. If it works.
--Bob

Yow! This looks very cool. Can you post a link to the RTI system or it's name? I'd love to know much more, but it will go off topic in this thread - Unless I keep it really specific to Anthem RS-232 details...

I had asked Nick about switching my surround speakers from dipole to monopole via a trigger when I went from movie DVD to music DVD (i.e. concert video). He said it would require RS-232 control. If I could also do other stuff as well, it might be worth putting time and money into (famous last words).

BOB - I assume you are following THIS THREAD

I had a 5000 on order a LONG time back. I probably would
have had it by now. But once Samsung Published the Manual
online - I canceled my ORDER.

I have kind of a strange ground loop problem. If I unplug my Scientific Atlanta cable box from the outlet, the hum disappears. But if I disconnect the cable input to the SA box, that does not get rid of the hum. I went to Cablevision today and swapped the cable box for a new SA4250HD, but no change.

I would have thought that if my hum was coming from the cable, disconnecting the cable would get rid of it?

And they cancelled the 2400. I just gave up and bought a 1400. The format wars can go on without me.

Those are the P1Z commands?
Would the syntax be:
P1Z 1GarageDoorOpen

I'm confused about how to get two line entries. Do you need to send a second command with "P1Z 2CloseItDummy", or is there some way to do it with commas for both zones on one line?

Also, are spaces allowed in the message. Can it be "Garage Door Open" or does it have to be "GarageDoorOpen"?

Anyone played around with an AMX or Crestron using variables to get caller ID on the OSD?

Disconnecting the cable feed line from the wall to your box eliminates the cable feed as the source.

If you still have hum it is coming from some other source.

It may be EXITING the circuit via the power line of your cable box -- which would explain why it goes away if you pull that plug.

There is a Hum FAQ sticky in the Audio Theory forum here that may help.
--Bob

Yes I've seen that thread, but I trust the posters here to test/describe things better -- for the stuff that matters to us.

I've not seen any ETA on the supposed firmware upgrade. The player is of no interest to me unless the profile 1.1, TrueHD and DTS-HD MA over HDMI PCM all work, which certainly won't be the case out of the box.
--Bob

Are you hearing the hum from the SA box itself, or through your speakers? The box has a hard drive in it that is always on, and it definitely makes a noticeable hum from the machine (though in this case, not from the speakers)

zzzzdoc,

Yes, you can have spaces in the displayed text. Howver, you have an extra space in there after z1. It should be like this "P1z1Bass Shakers: On"

As far as I can tell, you are correct on the two lines. I back to back commands (like a macro) for the first and second line of text. Usually, they both pop up at the same time, but every once in a while there is a short delay.

Since the entrace to my theater is behind the seats, it's real easy to get "snuck up on". I put a motion sensor in the lobby, and now I get a quick pop up if somoene is coming in the theater while I'm blasting a movie. Keeps my wife from scaring the crap out of me

I rec'd my D2 just before Thanksgiving and I finally got around to hooking it up (I've been busy lately) this week. After I fit it in my audio rack and finished building some new audio/video cables I hooked everything up and went through the setup menus for the D2.
This is where the problem begins. I have an OTA Ant. hooked up to a Samsung 260 HD tuner using the tv/cable in from the ant. and the tv/cable out to the tv. I'm using the component Out from the Samsung 260 to the D2's #1 component In. Then from the D2's Main component Output to the tv's #1 Input. When I put the tv input to #1 I get multiple screens. The picture repeats itself across the screen 3-4 times. If I don't use the D2 and go directly to the tv from the Samsung tuner the picture is fine.
I should say that the tv is a rptv (Pioneer 710) and I have a Channel Master amplifier for the ant.

I'm going crazy trying to fix this ---I need the experts help on this one.
TIA,
Ken

The pro710 won't accept 720p, try 1080i output via video configuration in the setup menu.

abc999,
That did the trick. I set it at 1920/1080i/60 and everything worked fine. Thanks.

After some tweaking I'm dissappointed in the picture though. DVD's only show as 480p because of macrovision and tv shows at 1080i don't appear to be vastly superior to the $180.00 hd tuner. Is there something that I'm missing? It has to get better than this.

The sound is the real winner. I spent so much time on the video that I didn't even get a chance to tweak the sound. It's only coming from the fronts & center and sounds amazing. I can't wait to get the surrounds and sub set up tomorrow.

Any advice is welcome.

Try using an HDMI connection for the DVD if you can - especially one of the players that will send 480i over HDMI (I use an Oppo 970). This will allow you to get past the Macrovision limitation. You WILL notice a difference then.

With the HDTV signal, the Samsung is quite good (I have the same OTA tuner), and if the source was good, then there is not a lot for the D2 to do other than deliver the signal pristinely.

That said, there are a lot of little tweaks you can do that all combined will make for a noticeably better picture. First thing you should do is calibrate your display and D2. There are links in the first post for this. I myself would recommend an ISF calibration if you aren't pretty technical and DIY.

I agree the sound is stellar!

Ken, you need to be patient with your video setup and calibration. It takes a while to get a feel for what's going on. But it is definitely worth the effort.

With modern digital video setups, the difference between getting the settings just right and "nearly right" may very will be a lot greater than you are used to with your earlier stuff.

Take a look at the "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post you will find in the collection of links in the first post of this thread for suggestions.
--Bob

The HDMI connection is not going to happen since the Pioneer 710 rptv and the Denon 3800 dvd player don't have it. The Pioneer was ISF calibrated by David Abrams approx. 4-5 yrs. ago but it still has a very good picture. I only use the set for dvd's (90%) and tv viewing (5-10%).
Thanks for the suggestions. I see there is alot of tweaking to do from the video section of the manual. Hope I can get something worked out for a better picture. The wife is trying to justify the cost.

I'm asking from memory of the manual, but when it says component can be converted to hdmi, what exactly does this mean and how is it done?

Oh, I'm going to have fun with this. Doorbell and caller ID come to mind (we'll see if that's possible.)

A motion sensor-monitored trap door may help.

Seriously it never fails to have an entrance right at the climax to talk about some inane topic...

The Anthem will take Component video input at up to 1080p/30 (1080i/60), do all the various sorts of video processing it offers, and output that on the HDMI output at up to 1080p/60. The display needs to be HDCP (copy protection) compliant, which should be a given with any HDMI display, but may not be the case if the display has only a DVI input.

The restriction to 480p output for Component video input that happens to be Macrovision protected, only applies if the Anthem's Component outputs are used. If the HDMI output is used the Anthem will scale such Macrovision protected input up to 1080p/60.

The Anthem can also "pass through" Component 1080p/60 to the Component outputs (but ONLY to the Component outputs) as an unprocessed video signal (merely switched from the selected input to the outputs).

Typically you would set SD Component video sources to send 480i to the Anthem. HD Component video sources should send 720p or 1080i/60 to the Anthem (according to the resolution present in the source content), unless the TV is capable of accepting a 1080p/24 video signal and displaying it at a refresh rate which is a multiple of 24 -- in which case sending Component 1080p/24 to the Anthem is also useful. 1080p/24 is less than 1080p/30, so a Component 1080p/24 signal can be processed to HDMI output.

See section 2.1 of the Manual.

-----------------------------------------------

The key factor in video quality is confirming that your TV is properly set to display the test patterns generated internally in the Anthem. Depending upon how your TV was originally set up, this may just work without change. However if the TV's input settings were set to specifically match your source devices at the time (which is one of the two approaches to video calibration), those settings may not be optimized to receiving video from the Anthem instead.

Doing that, along with the other steps described in that "Video Calibration for non-ISF Techs" post, should result in a very pleasing picture.

If this is the first time you have attempted video calibration on your own, be aware that it is a skill that takes some time to acquire. Also, much of this video processing stuff has to do with how "problem content" gets handled. So for example, if you are not familiar with what de-interlacing failures look like, it may not jump out at you that the Anthem doesn't have any of them, because you not only need to have an eye for when things go wrong, but you also have to be playing content that triggers it.

Over the course of this thread we have had many posters in your situation -- where their early attempts at video setup didn't produce the excellent results they were hoping for. I can only think of a scant few cases where those posters didn't come back a while later and say, "I spent some more time on it, and by golly it now looks fantastic." So take heart. It is worth the effort.
--Bob

Does anyone know if there is a way to output a second audio source along with your primary audio/video source?

I'm talking only the audio...

We are watching movies and running the Rifftrax along with them at the same time (if you dont know what these are do a google search, its kind of like MSTIII...you'll get a good laugh i promise) , it would be nice to get the Rifftrax audio to come out my main speakers along with the audio from the DVD.

Thanks for your help.