Originally Posted by bluemark81
Yes, I have been trying to follow the setup procedure you've laid out there. I am kind of stuck on a couple of things.
1. When I start the TV calibration, where should the Anthems brightness/contrast/color and tint be?
2. My TV (Panasonic TH58PZ700) does not have a contrast setting. It does have a setting called "picture", so I'm thinking this may be in place of contrast?
3. I followed yours and Anthems instructions on using the blue filter to adjust color and tint which was quite easily done, but I'm unclear on how to use the green and red filters. Anthems manual shows the "B's" and "C's" with their corresponding bars that are to match when using the blue filter, but what bars are to match when using the green and red filters?
4. I didn't quite follow your instructions for color temp. Should it be set on warm, normal or cool?
That's it for now, but I'm sure I will have additional questions as I proceed.
When you are setting up the TV's controls to best display the Anthem's internally generated test patterns, it doesn't matter where you have the Video Source Adjust / Picture controls set for any input. Those controls only affect input video. The Anthem's internally generated test patterns are generated independent of that -- think of them as an alternate video source that has no such controls.
However it doesn't hurt to take this opportunity to set them to their default positions since that's where you will want to start when you finish setting up your TV's controls and now want to refine the video for each source by adjusting these controls that alter the INPUT video into the Anthem from each source.
Your TV will have two controls that handle the Brightness and Contrast function. Contrast might be labeled Picture for no particularly good reason. Brightness sets the Black levels (Memory Aid: "Brightness" and "Black" both begin with a "B") -- the floor of the visible video image. Contrast or Picture on the other hand sets the "range" from there to the brightest parts of the picture -- essentially setting the White levels.
These two controls interact since, obviously, if you change the floor (dark end) for a given range then the top end (bright end) must also move with it, but less obviously because when you change the "range" (Picture or Contrast control) it actually moves BOTH ends -- closer together if you are setting a smaller value and farther apart if you are setting a larger value. However the bright end "moves more", so Brightness dominates the Blacks setting while Contrast/Picture dominates the Whites setting. In any event, you need to play with the two controls together to get the best pair of settings.
The pair of color bars you use when adjusting the Color control for best Red are "Red & White". Why? Because you are looking at how much Red is going in to making White. Just as you did with the Blue filter and "Blue & White".
Similarly the pair of color bars you use when adjusting the Color control for best Green are "Green & White".
If your color decoder and display primaries are perfect in your TV, and if the TV is not futzing with the imaging as for "automatic flesh tone correction" or similar nonsense, adjusting for a perfect match of "Blue & White" when viewing through the Blue gelatin filter will ALSO, quite automatically, result in a perfect match for "Red & White" when viewed through the Red filter and for "Green & White" when viewed through the Green filter.
In the real world this stuff is seldom perfect (Color setting errors in Red or Green when Blue is perfect are called Red or Green "push" or "depression), and so you may get better results by using the best compromise Color setting which is pretty close for all three.
[NOTE: In older TVs, and even some cheap new TVs, the color errors are severe because "red push" has been engineered into the TV to make its picture more eye catching in garish store lighting and because the "color temperature" of the display has been set to produce "whites" which have a blueish cast (color temperature too "cool", which, confusingly, corresponds to a higher temperature number) -- which fools the eye into thinking the set produces a brighter image. And the built in, "red push" is then necessary to keep people's flesh tones from looking too ghastly and corpse-like. In such TVs you can't get anywhere near a decent result by trying for a compromise setting. So what you do is set Color and Tint for the Blue filter (just Blue) and then reduce Color (leaving Tint alone) until things look more natural and less garish. This is the best you can do with such TVs unless there is a way to get into their service menus and correct the designed in imaging flaws.]
Similar, when adjusting Tint, there will be a pair, each, of the secondary color bars that will match or be close to matching. Nobody can remember the names of these secondary colors, so just do this. Adjust Color and Tint with the Blue filter as described in the Anthem manual.
Then pick up the red filter and see which pair of secondary colors are the closest match (remembering that the primary colors of Red and White will ALSO be closely matched). Those are the two secondary colors you will be adjusting if you further adjust Tint while viewing through Red. Then do the same with Green.
It's not that tough to see which pair to use when you actually try it because the other color bars will be way off when viewed through a filter that is "wrong" for them.
Again, a compromise setting of Tint that is not perfect with any color filter, but pretty close for all three, seems to work best in my experience.
And as with Brightness and Contrast/Picture, the Color and Tint controls interact. It takes some time to find the best pair of settings for the best compromise of Color and Tint. I suggest you jot down the setting pairs that appear close. You will end up with a small number of pairs that might work -- perhaps 4 to 8 pairs of Color and Tint differing by 1 or 2 levels in each.
Then just work through each of those remaining pairings -- looking through all 3 filters one at a time for each pairing, and see which pairing seems to give you the best compromise. Keep eliminating candidates until you are left with just one -- your winner.
The eye seems to tolerate errors in Red more than in Blue or Green. So if you can't get equally close in all three, let the errors be mostly in the Red.
Only the marketing people for your TV know what they mean by "Warm" "Normal" or "Cool" color temperature.
If you find a setting described on screen or in the manual that says "SMPTE Standard" or "6,500K" then that's the one you want.
If you can't find such a description, then odds are the "Warm" setting is the one you want.
To know for sure you will need an optical color sensor and computer software that knows how to display the color temperature it is seeing when you display "white" on the TV.