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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 46

post #1351 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

That's what I thought but I was wondering if I was missing something. I have a Samsung HLS6187 which is supposed to accept 1080p but when I switch the D2 to that I get no picture so I have it set at 1080i/60. What is the best setting to put the HD A1 on ?

I think the Samsung only takes 1080i input which it scales to 1080p

Nowhere in the manual does it say it can take a 1080p input. from what I have read.
post #1352 of 40880
rudolpht:I HAVE the qualia upgrade, it DOES accept 1080/60p and 1080/50p, that's the UPGRADE (for some reason you aren't clear on the details but insist on commenting). It doesn't accept 1080/24P or 1080/48P that's the problem (there is no way to change this). I was hoping the Anthem D2 would provide 1080/24PsF and despite what you say no one ever stated it could NOT due to hardware limitations until RECENTLY.

I need a scalar that can output 1080/60P and 1080/24PsF, it's been made clear RECENTLY that the D2 cannot do this, and will not be made to provide a pass through function so that an external scalar could do this. Even if the D2 couldn't handle the video processing for my needs I was tempted to purchase it as an audio prepro, that's when the issue of pass through came up.
post #1353 of 40880
uzun - Have you by chance checked out the HDMI Lexicon that came out recently? How about the AVM-40 if Anthem ever gets it released? Neither of these has video processing but do process audio. I'm prone to forget and repeat things myself, seems my brain gets erased every night when I fall asleep. Anyway I learned quite a few things reading your deliberations about the D2.
post #1354 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Wingnut - The best setting is the one you can't get to work. Not being able to send it 1080P negates most of the advantages of the D2 Gennum. Sending any other resolution will cause the Samsung to also process the video. Have you contacted Anthem or Samsung about this?

OK It seems to just be the Sat. setting that is not accepting the 1080p. I set the resolution to 1080p/60 for the Toshiba and that is working fine. I have the Dish VIP 622 HD DVR.

Ok. Now suddenly it's all working at 1080p/60 ..... After I set it for the Toshiba miraculously it now works when I switch over to satellite input where before it told me I had no picture. This thing sure is tricky.
post #1355 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by tycoondog2 View Post

I think the Samsung only takes 1080i input which it scales to 1080p

Nowhere in the manual does it say it can take a 1080p input. from what I have read.

I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).
post #1356 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjavman View Post

I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).

My old Sammy used to up convert to 1080p but this one accepts a 1080p signal.
post #1357 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjavman View Post

I thought the Sammy DLP were 1080p via HDMI, which now has me thrown for a loop. What DLPs do take 1080p via HDMI, as I know this is a highly important feature to take advantage of the D2. My plan was either the sammy 61" DLP or wait the 4 weeks for the Sony XBR2 (which I can't determine if it accepts 1080p via HDMI).

I had read that the new XBR's would take 1080P.

Have not found anything that says the sammy takes 1080p
post #1358 of 40880
There is a huge thread on the Sammy over in the display forum it certainly appears to accept 1080P over HDMI.
post #1359 of 40880
If the AVM40 had room correction I would go for that as a prepro I believe. At this point I'm still in limbo, using a receiver as a prepro until I can find a dedicated prepro that has the features I really want. The D2 is so close, I really want to get one but it's just missing one essential feature for me. If the AVM40 had room correction, and was available, I think I would purchase one right away.
post #1360 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by uzun View Post

The D2 is so close, I really want to get one but it's just missing one essential feature for me. If the AVM40 had room correction, and was available, I think I would purchase one right away.

It's possible that both the D2 and the AVM50 will eventually have room correction. Why don't you e-mail Anthem and ask if room correction is in their plans or not?

R
post #1361 of 40880
I did email anthem, and they said room correction was in the plans for the D2 anyway. It has some video processing issues that make it a bad choice for me, and you can't bypass the video processor section in any way (and still process HDMI audio).

Anthem didn't have any timeframe on when room correction would be completed, or if it would be part of the AVM40/50 as well as the D2.
post #1362 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by uzun View Post

It has some video processing issues that make it a bad choice for me,

My mistake, I thought that room correction was the issue.

R
post #1363 of 40880
The Lexicon is close to what I want but it's costly for what you get, and I'm not sure it's even as good as the AVM40 sound wise. It's one I've strongly considered, but I'm not convinced about the quality of its room correction, or it's overall sound quality compared to other prepros.

If it were cheaper I'd strongly consider it, but as it is it looks like something that costs twice as much as the AVM50 and perhaps doesnt perform as well sonically.
post #1364 of 40880
Could a new thread be started regarding uzun's "Anthem doesn't fit my needs, what will thread?"
post #1365 of 40880
HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....

Earlier today I changed the amp configuration I was turning on using the D2's 12 volt triggers. As part of this I switched from Trigger 1 to the higher current Trigger 3.

After a few hours of use, the HDMI from the Comcast box developed a particularly stubborn failure to establish HDCP. All of my usual tricks were no help. I even swapped in a different Comcast box and the problem remained. I was about to conclude my D2's HDMI circuit had developed a permanent failure -- although HDMI to the display and HDMI input from my 59avi DVD player still worked fine so the circuit was not completely fried. The Comcast also worked normally using Component video cabling.

After scratching my head I decided to step back towards my earlier configuration and the first thing I tried, for no good reason except that it was easy, was to set DISABLE on the D2 triggers.

And voila the Comcast HDMI started working again!

Then I re-enabled the D2 triggers and the HDMI continued working!

It's now several hours later -- with the triggers still enabled -- and the Comcast HDMI is still working correctly.

I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.

So, if anyone has an HDMI problem and happens to be using D2 triggers, please try temporarily disabling your D2 triggers and report back if that seems to clear up your problem. If there really is a relationship here, we'll have something that Anthem can sink its engineering teeth into.
--Bob
post #1366 of 40880
Lets stay on topic and keep other brands out of this thread. Thank you.
post #1367 of 40880
Tim - Sorry will stick to the D2 talk from now on.

Bob - That is very weird. Hopefully just a bizarre coincident and not a power problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Came across another HDMI audio idiosyncrasy tonight. I had to switch the Toshiba HD DVD HDMI Audio from Auto to down converted PCM to get the commentary and gag feature to work on Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, anyone else seen this? I don't believe I've watched any of the extras on HD DVD before tonight, so not sure if it is just this title. KKBB was a surprisingly good flick too.

Anyone have a experience with this issue? I tried Aeon Flux tonight and it did it also. It appears if I have the Toshiba HDMI audio set to anything other then downmix PCM I don't get sound on the commentaries or any of the extra features. In fact I noticed on the AF disc tonight that while the main menu looped I was only getting the menu clicks until I changed to PCM downsample. It appears that the Auto and PCM setting on the Toshiba only work on my system if it is decoding a straight DD+ signal with nothing mixed in.

Surely one of you HD DVD guys has tried this. I'm trying to figure out if it is just my system or if others have seen this.
post #1368 of 40880
Only the Statement D1 & D2 will get room correction, not the AVM line. There's only one DSP cpu in AVM -- D1/D2 have two. The additional horsepower is needed to process room correction.
post #1369 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Spivak View Post

Only the Statement D1 & D2 will get room correction, not the AVM line. There's only one DSP cpu in AVM -- D1/D2 have two. The additional horsepower is needed to process room correction.

Max, assume that is from the horses mouth, and intuitively that is a good marketing but it doesn't make sense to me completely. The typical room correction I'm familiar with is a diagnostic to plot response curves for correction, e.g., automated detection of feet of speaker from microphone, equalization curves, etc., so it is diagnostic and settings generation - not "live" during pre-amp use other than testing.
post #1370 of 40880
Yeah that don't make much sense. Because once a EQ/room correction plot is made up by a unit in the setup procedure, I'm sure it no longer consumes any real power to implement it. Some memory maybe to hold the plots it came up with, but any real CPU power I doubt. If such a thing was even any sort of real time CPU power hog, then I doubt you would find MCAAC on the lower end $300-$400 Pioneer receivers like they do have.
post #1371 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....
I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.
--Bob

I can't help but think about the movie Apollo 13 where Gary Sinese is trying to power back up the main ship and it is "all in the sequencing."

Its a few weeks more before I set everything up, but I'm going to document sequencing, HDMI input selection, the whole shibang. I'll try to keep a good enough record to post and share with Anthem. Anthem = NASA
post #1372 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by tycoondog2 View Post

I had read that the new XBR's would take 1080P.

So I'll probably wait to see the XBR2. However this brings me back to the question about taking advantage of the D2's video scaling, which is my main reason for choosing the D2.

1080i to 1080p, thats an easy to understand as is 720p to 1080p, but what are you all experiencing on the SD to 1080p up conversion? Does the anthem let you keep the original aspect ratio as an option, or does it have to default to 16:9? Have you found one setting better then another?

Additionally, from the whole seating distance/screen size perspective with SD scaled to 1080p what is the visual effect with respect to the details. Does the upconverting let you actually sit closer/go larger without seeing the pixels?

I have seen other scalers but not the Genum, some with some impressive results off of DVDs, that scaled to 1080i.
post #1373 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Tim - Sorry will stick to the D2 talk from now on.

Bob - That is very weird. Hopefully just a bizarre coincident and not a power problem.

Anyone have a experience with this issue? I tried Aeon Flux tonight and it did it also. It appears if I have the Toshiba HDMI audio set to anything other then downmix PCM I don't get sound on the commentaries or any of the extra features. In fact I noticed on the AF disc tonight that while the main menu looped I was only getting the menu clicks until I changed to PCM downsample. It appears that the Auto and PCM setting on the Toshiba only work on my system if it is decoding a straight DD+ signal with nothing mixed in.

Surely one of you HD DVD guys has tried this. I'm trying to figure out if it is just my system or if others have seen this.

Greetings,

Tom, I checked for this on my AVM-50/Toshiba HD-A1 and have no problem. My HD-A1 is set to Auto and both the commentary and extra's play normally. The same goes for the menu loop as well. I also tried it on Swordfish and it was the same.

Regards,
post #1374 of 40880
Fan update:

Just a quick update that my cabinet configuration with the D2 in a double-height space, open only to the rear, seems to be working just fine without requiring any external fan. In this configuration, the D2 has about 12 inches of air space above it, all open to the rear, and is otherwise isolated from other heat sources.

Interior air and interior cabinet surface temperatures, at steady state, remain about where they were with the D2 in its original single height space along with a largish external fan (near the power supply side of the D2) exhausting to the rear.

So no fan noise to deal with any more.

-----------------------------------------------

Triggers update:

A few more hours of continuous operation with the D2 triggers enabled, and so far no repeat of last night's HDMI problems.

Besides simple co-incidence, and a possible current draw conflict between the triggers and the HDMI/HDCP circuits, another possibility here is that there is a firmware problem affecting the video board's proper operation that is caused by making a change to the D2's trigger configuration (in the Setup menu), and which is cleared by disabling and re-enabling the D2 triggers (in that same menu). This is not so far fetched since one way to configure the D2 triggers is to have them activate when a specific input is selected. So the process of selecting an input has to go through various firmware stages such as automatic digital vs. analog audio input selection and possible trigger activation. Any of this could possibly conflict with the proper handling of the HDMI handshake. Normally, I believe, such handshake would be isolated inside the HDMI driver chips independent of other things the pre-pro is doing, but the D2 may be doing this in a more complicated way due to it's Repeater = YES/NO function.

Anyway this is all just guess work at the moment.
--Bob
post #1375 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by placidman View Post

Tom, I checked for this on my AVM-50/Toshiba HD-A1 and have no problem. My HD-A1 is set to Auto and both the commentary and extra's play normally. The same goes for the menu loop as well. I also tried it on Swordfish and it was the same.

Thanks Ralph are you running the 1.4 firmware on the Toshiba? Reason I ask is I don't recall seeing the issue before upgrading.
post #1376 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolpht View Post

Max, assume that is from the horses mouth, and intuitively that is a good marketing but it doesn't make sense to me completely. The typical room correction I'm familiar with is a diagnostic to plot response curves for correction, e.g., automated detection of feet of speaker from microphone, equalization curves, etc., so it is diagnostic and settings generation - not "live" during pre-amp use other than testing.

I don't know I thought most of these systems worked in the time domain too and have to react to the source in real time. I think it is much more then just slapping a bunch of filters on the signal, even that could be fairly processor intensive if you are applying numerous and distinct filters on all eight channels.
post #1377 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Thanks Ralph are you running the 1.4 firmware on the Toshiba? Reason I ask is I don't recall seeing the issue before upgrading.


Greetings,

Tom, sorry about that I should have mentioned the firmware. I am running 1.4 firmware which came installed with my HD-A1.

Regards,
post #1378 of 40880
Darn there goes another theory down the tubes. I guess I need to check the D2 settings again. Are you running 1.06 on the Anthem or is the AVM-50 firmware based on a different release schedule then the D2?
post #1379 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Darn there goes another theory down the tubes. I guess I need to check the D2 settings again. Are you running 1.06 on the Anthem or is the AVM-50 firmware based on a different release schedule then the D2?


Greetings,

Tom, I am running v1.06 as well.....


Regards,
post #1380 of 40880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

HDMI saga -- a new and confusing case....

Earlier today I changed the amp configuration I was turning on using the D2's 12 volt triggers. As part of this I switched from Trigger 1 to the higher current Trigger 3.

After a few hours of use, the HDMI from the Comcast box developed a particularly stubborn failure to establish HDCP. All of my usual tricks were no help. I even swapped in a different Comcast box and the problem remained. I was about to conclude my D2's HDMI circuit had developed a permanent failure -- although HDMI to the display and HDMI input from my 59avi DVD player still worked fine so the circuit was not completely fried. The Comcast also worked normally using Component video cabling.

After scratching my head I decided to step back towards my earlier configuration and the first thing I tried, for no good reason except that it was easy, was to set DISABLE on the D2 triggers.

And voila the Comcast HDMI started working again!

Then I re-enabled the D2 triggers and the HDMI continued working!

It's now several hours later -- with the triggers still enabled -- and the Comcast HDMI is still working correctly.

I have no idea if this was a coincidence or if there's something important going on here. The drain on Trigger 3 for the stuff that I'm using is well WELL below its 200 mA spec. But maybe there's a timing issue between when the draw initially happens on that trigger and when the Comcast decides to try for HDCP handshake (remembering that the Comcast is never really shutoff unless you pull it's plug out). It does appear that once the Comcast decides it is unhappy with HDCP you need to hit it with a crowbar to get it to try again.

So, if anyone has an HDMI problem and happens to be using D2 triggers, please try temporarily disabling your D2 triggers and report back if that seems to clear up your problem. If there really is a relationship here, we'll have something that Anthem can sink its engineering teeth into.
--Bob

Bob, I thought you might be on to something here because in my prior HDMI video failures these problems seemed to have appeared after I connected and enabled Trigger 1 and 2. On my latest failed D2, I have just disabled the triggers but unfortunately this did not bring my video back (went through several power up/down sequences). That is the case with this unit that has no video whatsoever (HDMI and component). However, based upon my prior failures which I cannot verify anymore (units sent back) I think there may be something to the HDMI/Trigger situation that you may have discovered.

BTW: I had thought my (5th) replacement D2 was to be here by now but just got a call from the dealer that Anthem never shipped it as promised. They said they were shipping 11 days ago. Now another 7-10 days. Since I took delivery of the D2 in the beginning of June (2.5+ months ago) I have had a fully operational D2 for a total of ~15 minutes. With the additional delay, it will now be at least 3 months. Probably not a good idea to ask me for a testimonial on the D2. I'm numb.

I wonder if my warranty period reinitializes and gets extended each time I get a new replacement unit?

By the time I get this sorted out I should have room equalization plus all the other new features on my delivered unit.
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