or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 469

post #14041 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by drmabuse View Post

One of the things I keep meaning to mention to Nick is this...
Whenever I upload my settings to my computer for file save or download back into the D2 the Subs setting in both Movie and Music goes back to 1 Sub as opposed to my saved setting as 2 Subs.
Has anyone else ever noticed this? Not a big deal just one of those odd things that never seems to get fixed in any of the updates...
/\\/\\

Yes I did notice that, checked the new manual, it says if using ARC to select 1 sub
post #14042 of 42686
ARC is setting my subs to -5 and I would like some more from my subs so I find myself using the subwoofer trim in the D2 to raise the level, couldnt I just go into the calibraition and remove the -5 and bring it back to 0.0? any negative effect of doing that?
post #14043 of 42686
"Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process."


Its funny - mine didn't do this w/ 1.32 and 1.2.1 - anyone else not have this happen?
post #14044 of 42686
Hi, it's me , the computer moron again.
I downloaded v1.32 from the Anthem site and, although I haven't uploaded it to my D2 yet I've done that enough times that I know that as long as I follow the directions I can do it with no problems.
I also downloaded the ARC 1.2.1. My question is how do I merge the new ARC program with my original ARC?
There are now 2 icons on my desktop. How do I combine them so that the old ARC has the new upgrades. Please don't laugh.
OK go ahead and laugh, but please help me.
Also the 'read me' for the new ARC says that if the ARC is 1.0 you need to run the speaker sweeps with the mic again. When I open my original ARC program it doesn't say which version it is. When I right click on it and open properties it doesn't say which version it is. How can I tell?
Now when I look at the properties of my original ARC it says it was modified tonight at the same time I downloded and unzipped the new ARC1.2.1. It couldn't have possibly merged with the old ARC? It couldn't be that easy, could it?
HELP!
Tom
post #14045 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

When I open my original ARC program it doesn't say which version it is. When I right click on it and open properties it doesn't say which version it is. How can I tell?

Usually, the HELP tab item: ABOUT has this information.
post #14046 of 42686
TNGILOY - start ARC, at the "Welcome" dialog box, pick the custom/advanced option and then "OK". Then click on help>about to see the version number.

ETA - read Bob Pariseau's post at this link for additional info on upgrading ARC to 1.2.1
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post14013570
post #14047 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by joealbracht View Post

TNGILOY - start ARC, at the "Welcome" dialog box, pick the custom/advanced option and then "OK". Then click on help>about to see the version number.

ETA - read Bob Pariseau's post at this link for additional info on upgrading ARC to 1.2.1
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post14013570

Thanks- its 1.1 which will save me having to run the sound sweeps with the mic again. Since the last time I ran it I was lucky enough to do the main-left-right-left-right mic placement sequence now I just have to figure out how to update the 1.1 to the 1.2.1.
Tom
post #14048 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by funlvr1965 View Post

ARC is setting my subs to -5 and I would like some more from my subs so I find myself using the subwoofer trim in the D2 to raise the level, couldnt I just go into the calibraition and remove the -5 and bring it back to 0.0? any negative effect of doing that?

Yes. The transition from your subs to your main speakers as the frequency goes up will no longer be seamless.

---------------------------------

However, that aside, if you raise the subwoofer speaker calibration level after Uploading ARC results you will indeed end up with hotter subs if that's what you want. You could also raise the subwoofer's internal volume control after doing your ARC measurements.

But my recommendation would be that you should live with the results ARC has produced for quite some time before second guessing it.

Another thing to think about is whether you actually have enough subwoofer for the total air volume you are trying to pressurize in your listening room, and whether your subwoofer polarity/phase settings are correct. Often the feeling that the sub volume needs to be increased, despite calibration readings, is due to one of three things: (1) You have serious uncorrected cancellation nulls at various critical frequencies in your listening room such as around 50-60Hz. ARC should deal with that. Or (2), you don't have the Polarity and Phase adjusted properly for your subwoofer so you are getting cancellation near the crossover frequency when audio from the sub and from your main speakers cancel each other out because they are out of phase with each other. Or (3), your subwoofer is too small for the air volume you need to pressurize. Often, calibration readings shows proper sub volume but you don't have the "gut feel" of enough bass. In fact this also means you are likely stressing your sub by making it work so hard.

Check the subwoofer forum here for advice on how much subwoofer you need for a given listening room volume. The Velodyne site also has a sub selection dialog which will give you some idea based on their models. Adding a second subwoofer is sometimes easier than upping the size of a single subwoofer.
--Bob
post #14049 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Thanks- its 1.1 which will save me having to run the sound sweeps with the mic again. Since the last time I ran it I was lucky enough to do the main-left-right-left-right mic placement sequence now I just have to figure out how to update the 1.1 to the 1.2.1.
Tom

The thing on your desktop is just a "shortcut" to the application -- a pointer to the real application file.

Installing V1.2.1 should uninstall and delete the old version of the program. The fact that your 1.1 version is still on your computer is surprising. Did you actually "install" V1.2.1 -- i.e., run its Setup.exe program to execute its install wizard? You don't want to just run the program that's sitting in the install folder after you download and unzip that folder. It needs to be "installed".

In any event, after installing V1.2.1 you can go to the new folder in Program Files (see the text file of release notes) and create a new shortcut to the V1.2.1 ARC if you need to.
--Bob
post #14050 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

"Be sure to disconnect or power off your subwoofer(s) before doing an Upload of ARC results from ARC V1.2.1. It generates LOUD pops on the subwoofer output during the "uploading room correction parameters" part of the process."


Its funny - mine didn't do this w/ 1.32 and 1.2.1 - anyone else not have this happen?

Well I guess we'll have to revise the WARNING to say that it *MAY* generate loud pops. (grin!)

At least one other poster here also experienced the loud pops, so I'm no crazier than usual.
--Bob
post #14051 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by drmabuse View Post

One of the things I keep meaning to mention to Nick is this...
Whenever I upload my settings to my computer for file save or download back into the D2 the Subs setting in both Movie and Music goes back to 1 Sub as opposed to my saved setting as 2 Subs.
Has anyone else ever noticed this? Not a big deal just one of those odd things that never seems to get fixed in any of the updates...
/\\/\\

My understanding is that the "2 subs" setting is merely a convenience setting in that it reduces the subwoofer speaker calibration test tone to account for the extra driver. ARC wouldn't need that.

On the other hand, if you play the D2's speaker calibration test tones after uploading ARC results, the fact that it resets that back to "1 sub" may mean that your 2 subs measure hot on your SPL meter.

It's definitely confusing the way it is now.
--Bob
post #14052 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes. The transition from your subs to your main speakers as the frequency goes up will no longer be seamless.

---------------------------------

Another thing to think about is whether you actually have enough subwoofer for the total air volume you are trying to pressurize in your listening room, and whether your subwoofer polarity/phase settings are correct. Often the feeling that the sub volume needs to be increased, despite calibration readings, is due to one of three things: (1) You have serious uncorrected cancellation nulls at various critical frequencies in your listening room such as around 50-60Hz. ARC should deal with that. Or (2), you don't have the Polarity and Phase adjusted properly for your subwoofer so you are getting cancellation near the crossover frequency when audio from the sub and from your main speakers cancel each other out because they are out of phase with each other. Or (3), your subwoofer is too small for the air volume you need to pressurize. Often, calibration readings shows proper sub volume but you don't have the "gut feel" of enough bass. In fact this also means you are likely stressing your sub by making it work so hard.

Check the subwoofer forum here for advice on how much subwoofer you need for a given listening room volume. The Velodyne site also has a sub selection dialog which will give you some idea based on their models. Adding a second subwoofer is sometimes easier than upping the size of a single subwoofer.
--Bob

Bob no offense since I dont think you know my setup, believe me I have more than enough sub, two custom built "submersive1" subs, Art Sonneberg has 4 of these in a huge room, I have two in a room that is roughly 13 x17, initially the calibration for the subs and custom mains(also similar to Arts) were done by Mark Seaton, each sub has 2 "15" custom drivers using 1000watt digital amp. After Mark Calibrated my subs and new mains I decided to see if ARC could improve upon that, what I have found is that on a good calibration from ARC imaging from mains and surrounds are great but ARC doesnt seem to want to run my subs hot the way I like them, hence my question so I dont think its a matter of not having enough firepower its the fact that ARC hold back the firepower from the subs and im trying to find a way to keep the good imaging and dynamics that I get from ARC and still getting the punch you in the gut from Mark Seatons sub calibration, The pics are from the new mains installed and calibrated by Mark Seaton along with the subs, you will see only one sub in the front, the other sub is behind the seating position. It was after Mark did his calibration that I decided to try ARC which was about two weeks later. Thanks for your reply I will keep playing with ARC to see if I could get hotter subs without messing with the subs post calibration
LL
LL
LL
post #14053 of 42686
funlvr1965,
Well it certainly seems you have the basics covered! (grin!)

As far as I can tell, if you simply up the sub calibration level in the Setup menu AFTER uploading ARC results you will get hotter sub output.

You can test that perhaps more easily on a source by source basis by using the temporary subwoofer trim control on the Anthem remote (see Section 4.6 in the manual).

Ideally ARC would need to offer a bass volume bias control to trim the bass target up or down from "correct" calibration prior to its calculations -- while still maintaining a proper transition from the subwoofer to the main speakers.
--Bob
post #14054 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

funlvr1965,
Well it certainly seems you have the basics covered! (grin!)


Ideally ARC would need to offer a bass volume bias control to trim the bass target up or down from "correct" calibration prior to its calculations -- while still maintaining a proper transition from the subwoofer to the main speakers.
--Bob

This my friend is exactly what im after, now how do we get Anthem to impliment it? I will try your suggestion of going back into calibration post ARC although like you said I think sun/main cohesion may take a hit.
post #14055 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Well I guess we'll have to revise the WARNING to say that it *MAY* generate loud pops. (grin!)

At least one other poster here also experienced the loud pops, so I'm no crazier than usual.
--Bob

Yes, well, the posts scared me enough to unplug my sub while doing all the upgrading of the firmware and ARC. However, after re-running all the measurements (necessary since I also switched D2s and all the .arc files seem to be specific for serial number, damn!), I uploaded the corrections with sub on and had no disturbing noises.
post #14056 of 42686
Evidently, the loud subwoofer pops when uploading ARC results are random. I wonder what is different about the D2s that show this problem? It may be as simple as that some sort of internal "mute" command didn't get transferred properly over the serial connection, which would mean I too might not get the pops if I did another upload.

That's interesting about the ARC results files *ALSO* being keyed to the D2 serial #. This could be a problem for folks who have an installer do their ARC setup for them and then need to swap out their D2. They would need to get the installer back. I take it Anthem sent you a new pair of calibration/license files to match the new serial # so you could re-create your ARC results.
--Bob
post #14057 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Evidently, the loud subwoofer pops when uploading ARC results are random. I wonder what is different about the D2s that show this problem? It may be as simple as that some sort of internal "mute" command didn't get transferred properly over the serial connection, which would mean I too might not get the pops if I did another upload.

I wonder if the MUTE sign comes up for those with the sub-pops. The usual cycle is that the D2 is turned on by the ARC install, set to FM (for me, just hiss) and then actively Muted.

Quote:


That's interesting about the ARC results files *ALSO* being keyed to the D2 serial #. This could be a problem for folks who have an installer do their ARC setup for them and then need to swap out their D2. They would need to get the installer back. I take it Anthem sent you a new pair of calibration/license files to match the new serial # so you could re-create your ARC results.

Yes. But even with those files in the right place, the .arc files will be usable by ARC but not uploadable to the D2. I had to re-do all the measurements (but I am getting pretty swift at those by now).
post #14058 of 42686
I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.


Attachment 112553
LL
post #14059 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

I wonder if the MUTE sign comes up for those with the sub-pops. The usual cycle is that the D2 is turned on by the ARC install, set to FM (for me, just hiss) and then actively Muted.

In my case, at the time the loud subwoofer pops happened (during the "uploading room correction parameters" phase of the ARC results Upload), the D2 was powered on, the FM input was selected, and the volume was showing on the Front Panel display as -91.5dB (not Muted).

I included these details in my report to Nick at Anthem.
--Bob
post #14060 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

In my case, at the time the loud subwoofer pops happened (during the "uploading room correction parameters" phase of the ARC results Upload), the D2 was powered on, the FM input was selected, and the volume was showing on the Front Panel display as -91.5dB (not Muted).

I included these details in my report to Nick at Anthem.
--Bob

My MUTE was showing and I did not hear any pops.
post #14061 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ensmarcum View Post

I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.

IMHO, speaker cabinets inside cabinets is never a good idea. Proximate front edges will inflict diffraction and open/empty spaces will add resonance. Not only that but the structure has to be sufficiently rigid to avoid sympathetic vibrations which might be transmitted to other components.

That said, people do it and you might try the speakers forum. You might also consider speakers designed to be built into walls.
post #14062 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ensmarcum View Post

I have an off the wall question, probably not the forum to write it in but I want to see what you guys think. I have just ordered the Klipsch THX Ultra II system and I want to build a cabinet that will house the front three speakers. The speakers themselves are 15"H x 17"W x 12.5" D. My plan is to have the three on the top shelf, then have 6 compartments under them to house my equipment. Does anyone have any idea about the acoustics or problems that might arise from a design like this? I know alot of cabinets you can have the center speaker in or on, which I do now with my current setup but with three speakers that size so close together in one cabinet, would that be trouble for acoustics? This is kind of more out of necessity than desire, WAF! The cabinet I designed is 32" H x 20" D X 7ft W. There will be about 1.375 ft in between each speaker, and I plan on a sort of enclosure on each side of the speakers. Here is a rough that I did in paint. See what you think.


Attachment 112553


If you cannot do without the cabinet, al least line the internal cavity with fiberboard like OC 703 or 705. It will reduce some of the acoustic problems you will encounter, but not all.
post #14063 of 42686
Thanks for the replies. I cant do the inwall speaker because of my house that I rent. I dont know what to do. I had a cabinet maker get something together for a price, we will see what he says. He said he would make it out of 3/4 in pine, pretty sturdy wood. Well, thanks for the replies even though this isnt the forum for this.
post #14064 of 42686
Hello,

Does the D2 do auto-input detection? In other words, if the tivo is on, and the ps3 is set to higher priority, and I turn on the ps3, will it automatically change the video and sound over to the ps3?

Or would I have to manually change inputs?

Thanks
Goatwuss
post #14065 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by goatwuss View Post

Hello,

Does the D2 do auto-input detection? In other words, if the tivo is on, and the ps3 is set to higher priority, and I turn on the ps3, will it automatically change the video and sound over to the ps3?

Or would I have to manually change inputs?

Thanks
Goatwuss

You have to manually change inputs with one exception: You can set up an input to automatically switch between digital and analog audio input depending on whether or not audio is actually present on the digital input. Some people use that to share an input between two source devices (one of which is audio only).

The D2 has a pair of remote buttons which will scan forward or backward in the set of inputs to jump to the next input that is currently active. Frankly I never use that.

Instead I use a Harmony 880 remote. When I decide I want to watch a Blu-Ray movie I select the Watch Blu-Ray activity I've set up on my Harmony and it turns on the PS3 (using the IR2BT product to convert the IR remote codes from the Harmony to the BlueTooth radio signals the PS3 is looking for), switches the D2 to the right HDMI input for use with the PS3, and turns off the input source previously in use (except for a DVR like the Tivo which you would likely want to leave ON all the time so it can still record programs).

Programmable remotes such as the Hamony are so convenient it is by far the best way to go.

However, the HDMI V1.3 spec includes optional control commands that can allow one device to control another and do the sort of thing you are asking for (only if all the devices implement this optional feature, and typically only if all the devices are made by the same company). If that's what you want, the D2 is not for you as it is an HDMI V1.1 device and includes none of that.
--Bob
post #14066 of 42686
Well I downloaded the new beta ARC and took new measurements. The measurements look the same but the targets did change. After listening for a few hours, this is a definate improvement. The bass is slightly more pronounced and my Salk HT3's have totally disappeared.

By the way no subwoofer pops when uploading to the D2

I talked with Nick and he did not recommend the new 1.32 software just yet. He also said if your last measurements were using ARC 1.1 you shouldn't need to remeasure, I did anyway.
post #14067 of 42686
I'm expecting my D1 back from Anthem today (D1-HD upgrade). For the time being, I'll be using another VP to handle video, and will send HDMI into the Anthem for audio use only.

If I input HDMI into the Anthem, but DON'T have an HDMI display connected, will the unit still be able to process audio, or will HDCP rear its ugly head?
post #14068 of 42686
If Anthem is following the HDCP specs, you won't get multi-channel sound (lossless). HDMI HDCP requires a 'sink' at the end of the HDMI chain - usually an HDMI display. Your options are to buy a small HDMI monitor (I needed to do this with my Halcro). CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.
post #14069 of 42686
Quote:


CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.

Ack. Figured as much. Have an external Moome box in-hand if the need arises...
post #14070 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axatax View Post

Ack. Figured as much. Have an external Moome box in-hand if the need arises...

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post

If Anthem is following the HDCP specs, you won't get multi-channel sound (lossless). HDMI HDCP requires a 'sink' at the end of the HDMI chain - usually an HDMI display. Your options are to buy a small HDMI monitor (I needed to do this with my Halcro). CC has one for $180 or buy an HDMI Fury (defeats HDCP) and acts as an HDMI sink. That said, receivers and some pre/pros allow you to turn the monitor off and get the audio - perhaps the Anthem does.... Give it a go.


I think the D2 is actually seen as a sink and therefore will process the audio as if it had an HDCP TV attached. It will however not pass on the sigal (video) on to a non HDCP TV. I might be absolutely wrong, but I thought this is the way it worked.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide