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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 481

post #14401 of 42673
TiVolution,
I don't know. I did tell Anthem which sub it was and even sent them a link to pass on to the techs for any questions they might have.
- Scott
post #14402 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by ditcin View Post

Bogg,
My sub is the Axiom Ep600
here is a link ...

http://www.axiomaudio.com/ep600.html

- Scott

It's a nice sub. I'm familiar with it cause my buddy had a pair of them. A very puzzling issue. Let us know how it turns out.
post #14403 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by ditcin View Post

TiVolution,
I don't know. I did tell Anthem which sub it was and even sent them a link to pass on to the techs for any questions they might have.
- Scott


Have you tried to set the TRIM setting to FULL instead of FLAT? When I saw your ARC graph, its seems that your output at 20 hertz and below is greater than the rest of the frequencies above 33 hertz especially in a small room. Worth a try if you haven't done so. I will start with a lower volume on the SUB also,maybe 8 o'clock position?
post #14404 of 42673
abc99,
Yes. Just for the hell of it I went through all the settings. ... and lowered the volume on the sub as low as 7 o'clock. Since getting the ARC on last Friday I've gone through various settings and volume levels. One of cats is very sensitive to the sweeps and runs to me everytime I have another go. I cover her ears with my hands until the test is over.
Didn't hear from Anthem by the end of the day so I'm calling them in the morning in hopes they've come up with something.
- Scott
post #14405 of 42673
I have just one word for Anthem's ARC system and that is brilliant; a step change in sound quality for a very small investment. Mine came into the dealer yesterday and so I rushed off to get it and set it up yesterday evening. I had no problems in connectivity between my wife's laptop and my D1 (yes I think I might be the only D1 owner who subscribes to this thread); uploaded 1.33 first and then inserted the disc that came with ARC.

I had two problems in setting it up:
1) a thunderstorm which decided to roll through just as I started the tone sweeps, so obviously I had to wait for it to roll on through.
2) a difference in bass readings of more than 10dB. I have my set up in a family room not a dedicated theater and it is not the best room for accoustics (large, attached to a kitchen, large 18ft window with no covering, tile floor). I overcame this by choosing a slightly different position and it worked fine.

Attached are the results. The bass is certainly tighter and the overall sound field much more balanced, but the biggest difference I believe is in the 2KHz to 5KHz range where there is more presence and precision. When you switch between Room Eq ON and OFF there is a clear and discernable improvement in my case.

For reference my speakers are:

Fronts B&W804
Center B&W HTM3S
Surrounds DS8S
Sub Velodyne HGS15

The uncorrected surround speakers have a large peak which I believe is due to the forward firing bass/mid that is incorporated in this design when using it as a dipole. This is corrected after intalling the ARC settings.

My post ARC settings are as follows:

Fronts 40Hz
Center 90Hz
Surrounds 75Hz
Sub 120Hz (as pretty much everyone else)

Overall it was pretty easy. I am sure that the 10dB sub variation is letting people know that they should do some accoustic treatments first, not possible in my environment, but I managed to overcome it.
LL
LL
post #14406 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by seismo View Post

Just to add to Tolstoi response, kill the power on Sub 1 and adjust the level on Sub 2 to 72 db. Then turn Sub 1 on (Sub 2 on also) and adjust the sub 1 level to get 75 db total.

Exactly.
post #14407 of 42673
So I got my eye-one display lt and my setup disc and downloaded colorHCFR.

I have an Anthem D2 and it has the capability of custom gamma curves.

I calibrated the rgb levels so that from 0 to 100 IRE my delta E was under 2 across the board except for 0 where it was about 30.

The colors were a big improvement but my gamma level was 1.75. It was approx this value before calibration as well. My luminence curve is also too high.

So I tried the other custom gamma curve option which is a single variable compared to the 3 rgb curves. I setup the curve so that every point from 0 to 100 IRE the gamma value is now between 2.2 and 2.3. But in doing so my colors are off again. There is no way do both at the same time.

What is the best option to do?

The only other thing I can think of is to use the custom gamma curve that gives me a proper gamma and try to adjust the jvc rs-1 projector rgb levels at one specific amplitude and try to get the color temp right overall.

I tried to switch from normal to A,B,C on the projector but the results were a gamma closer to 1.5. So I left it normal.

Any ideas?

thanks

John
post #14408 of 42673
So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.

John
post #14409 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

So I got my eye-one display lt and my setup disc and downloaded colorHCFR.

I have an Anthem D2 and it has the capability of custom gamma curves.

I calibrated the rgb levels so that from 0 to 100 IRE my delta E was under 2 across the board except for 0 where it was about 30.

The colors were a big improvement but my gamma level was 1.75. It was approx this value before calibration as well. My luminence curve is also too high.

So I tried the other custom gamma curve option which is a single variable compared to the 3 rgb curves. I setup the curve so that every point from 0 to 100 IRE the gamma value is now between 2.2 and 2.3. But in doing so my colors are off again. There is no way do both at the same time.

What is the best option to do?

The only other thing I can think of is to use the custom gamma curve that gives me a proper gamma and try to adjust the jvc rs-1 projector rgb levels at one specific amplitude and try to get the color temp right overall.

I tried to switch from normal to A,B,C on the projector but the results were a gamma closer to 1.5. So I left it normal.

Any ideas?

thanks

John

You can do everything with the 3 color curves that you can do with the single gray scale curve, and more. Using a gray scale curve is, I believe, the equivalent of setting all 3 of the color curves to the same values

Keep in mind that adjusting gamma needs to be done in conjunction with adjusting black and white levels. It is an iterative process.

How are you measuring the resulting gamma -- i.e., your statement that your gamma after adjusting things is 1.75? Also, did you tell your eye-one that you were targeting gamma of 2.2? It might be using 1.8 as its default (sometimes used with computer monitors).

With some displays, calibration is the art of compromise. If you can't alter the service settings in the display, you may have to make a choice between proper color temperature (balance between the 3 colors) from end to end across the gray scale and proper gamma (the shape of the increasing gray scale curve).

What are folks in the projector's thread here saying about adjusting its gamma?
--Bob
post #14410 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You can do everything with the 3 color curves that you can do with the single gray scale curve, and more. Using a gray scale curve is, I believe, the equivalent of setting all 3 of the color curves to the same values

Keep in mind that adjusting gamma needs to be done in conjunction with adjusting black and white levels. It is an iterative process.

How are you measuring the resulting gamma -- i.e., your statement that your gamma after adjusting things is 1.75? Also, did you tell your eye-one that you were targeting gamma of 2.2? It might be using 1.8 as its default (sometimes used with computer monitors).

With some displays, calibration is the art of compromise. If you can't alter the service settings in the display, you may have to make a choice between proper color temperature (balance between the 3 colors) from end to end across the gray scale and proper gamma (the shape of the increasing gray scale curve).

What are folks in the projector's thread here saying about adjusting its gamma?
--Bob

When adjusting the rgb levels my luminance curve was unaffected. My rgb levels were near perfect from 0 to 100 IRE. Delta E of below 2 across the board.

I did adjust my black and white levels after setting the rgb levels but I did not go back and check my rgb levels again. I will try it when I get home but I doubt it will change my gamma from 1.7 to 2.2 but I will try anyway.

One would think that if the rgb levels were perfect and my black and white levels were correct that my gamma should be 2.2. Or are the two not linked like I think they are?

Yes the target was 2.22.

Most I have heard back from have said to calibrate the gamma first then try to adjust the offsets of each color inside the projector.
post #14411 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.

John

So the new version of ARC really improves the sound. I have to get the new version downloaded. Any other improvements with the new firmware?
post #14412 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmoviefan View Post

So the new version of ARC really improves the sound. I have to get the new version downloaded. Any other improvements with the new firmware?

The biggest difference to my mind is that ARC V1.2.2 and D2 V1.33, when paired together, produce much more reliable Uploads of ARC results. If something doesn't get Uploaded correctly, ARC will detect it and complain so that you can try again, rather than it leaving the corrupted data value in the D2 without telling you.

ARC V1.2.1 also introduced an improved algorithm for determining the cross overs. You can take advantage of that using prior, ARC V1.1 measurements, but you have to remember to go into the Targets window (ARC Advanced mode) and do an "Auto Detect" so that this new cross over determining algorithm gets applied to your old ARC V1.1 measurements. Then you re-Calculate and re-Upload.

If someone who had been using ARC V1.2.1 with ARC V1.1 measurements missed that step, but then did a whole new set of measurements with ARC V1.2.2, you wouldn't hear the benefit of this change until that new set of measurements was taken, processed, and uploaded.

---------------------------------

Also, carefully read the NEW instructions for how to position the mic for best ARC measurements -- wider spacing than previously recommended and alternating either side of center for successive measurements. See Section 3.15 of the updated D2 V1.3x Operating Manual downloadable from Anthem's public download page for the D2. New measurements done to these new recommendations should ALSO produce better results for many people.
--Bob
post #14413 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

When adjusting the rgb levels my luminance curve was unaffected. My rgb levels were near perfect from 0 to 100 IRE. Delta E of below 2 across the board.

I did adjust my black and white levels after setting the rgb levels but I did not go back and check my rgb levels again. I will try it when I get home but I doubt it will change my gamma from 1.7 to 2.2 but I will try anyway.

One would think that if the rgb levels were perfect and my black and white levels were correct that my gamma should be 2.2. Or are the two not linked like I think they are?

Yes the target was 2.22.

Most I have heard back from have said to calibrate the gamma first then try to adjust the offsets of each color inside the projector.

I agree that you should start with gamma correction before going in to adjust the display's color drivers. (Ideally, of course, gamma correction adjustments would ALSO be made inside the display!) I think of improper gamma correction as just another "torch mode" setting that needs to be undone before you can make good progress with calibration.

What puzzles me is that you say the eye-one was told to target gamma of 2.2 and yet the result it is giving back to you produces gamma of 1.75. Something is not correct there.
--Bob
post #14414 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I agree that you should start with gamma correction before going in to adjust the display's color drivers. (Ideally, of course, gamma correction adjustments would ALSO be made inside the display!) I think of improper gamma correction as just another "torch mode" setting that needs to be undone before you can make good progress with calibration.

What puzzles me is that you say the eye-one was told to target gamma of 2.2 and yet the result it is giving back to you produces gamma of 1.75. Something is not correct there.
--Bob

Did you mean a target of 2.2 in the eye-one or in colorHCFR. I set the target in colorHCFR for 2.2. I did not know there was an adjustment in the eye-one. Where is it?
post #14415 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

So I upgraded from v1.21 to v1.22 and wow it was mucho improved. Dolby Digital now sounded like Dolby TrueHD. Even my wife noticed. Played Transformers that I had recorded on my pvr in HD and holy cow it sounded even better than before. Have played any BD movies yet but it looks promising.

John

Sorry my mistake, I meant v1.1 to v1.22
post #14416 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

Did you mean a target of 2.2 in the eye-one or in colorHCFR. I set the target in colorHCFR for 2.2. I did not know there was an adjustment in the eye-one. Where is it?

Actually, I've not used these so I can't point you at the settings.

But a display calibration tool has to be told what gamma you are targeting. And if you set it to target 2.2 and it produces 1.75 as the result, then something is not right.

It also puzzles me that you said modifying the color gamma curves didn't alter your gray scale ramp. The only way that should be true is if you made no changes. The gray scale ramp (gray scale gamma response) is simply the combination of the gamma responses of R, G, and B together as those 3 inputs are increased in equal step with each other.
--Bob
post #14417 of 42673
With my latest ARC Upload I've started to rethink my audio mode preferences again.

In particular, for music, I had previously settled on Stereo for critical listening and on Anthem Logic - Music for surround sound listening. I did not like what PLIIx-Music produced. I found PLIIx-Music to be "too aggressive" in what it tried to steer to the surround speakers.

Now, with ARC, I am getting much more pleasant results from PLIIx-Music. In fact I'm at the point that I now think I prefer it to Anthem Logic - Music for surround sound music listening. I would still recommend Stereo for critical listening.

I use a Music speaker configuration which excludes my Center speaker (but includes the subwoofer), so the center bias adjustment in PLIIx-Music doesn't really apply. Of course Anthem Logic - Music doesn't use the Center speaker at all, so the presence or absence of the Center speaker in the speaker configuration makes no difference for that mode.

I also think I'm happier leaving the Panoramic setting turned off in PLIIx-Music mode.

I'm curious whether any other posters have had improved results like this from PLIIx-Music after Uploading ARC results?
--Bob
post #14418 of 42673
John,
Just to be sure there isn't something silly going on here, you do realize I hope that after you upload the Custom Gamma correction stuff from Live Video Settings Editor into the D2, you ALSO need to go into the Video Source Adjust / Output menu for EACH D2 INPUT and change the Gamma Correction setting in that menu to use either the gray scale gamma curve you uploaded or the RGB color gamma curves you uploaded. Right?
--Bob
post #14419 of 42673
Okay, I'm picking up my ARC Kit by the end of the week.

Can someone please outline a 5 or 10 step process on what needs to be done beginning with the software update which I already did to the latest version. Anything I should be real careful with so as not to render my D2 or any speakers useless.

Does this thing work as simple as Pioneer's receiver calibration? I recognize it's much more advanced, the ARC software that is, but is it relatively simple to achieve a drastic improvement. For example, once ready to go you just put the microphone in the optimal listening position and let it do it's thing similar to Pioneer's method?

Much appreciated.
post #14420 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Okay, I'm picking up my ARC Kit by the end of the week.

Can someone please outline a 5 or 10 step process on what needs to be done beginning with the software update which I already did to the latest version. Anything I should be real careful with so as not to render my D2 or any speakers useless.

Does this thing work as simple as Pioneer's receiver calibration? I recognize it's much more advanced, the ARC software that is, but is it relatively simple to achieve a drastic improvement. For example, once ready to go you just put the microphone in the optimal listening position and let it do it's thing similar to Pioneer's method?

Much appreciated.

Upgrade the firmware in your D2 to V1.33 -- available from Anthem's public download page. Follow the instructions the installer display's when you start it. In particular, you need to make sure you have no powered HDMI connections during the install, and you need to do a Reload Factory Defaults prior to the install.

Your Setup menu settings can be stashed in Saved User Settings for reloading after the install. However, if you are upgrading from V1.29j or older, your Video Source Adjust menu settings will not survive the install. The V1.33 installer folder also includes Live Video Settings Editor V1.30a. Prior to doing the Reload Factory Defaults for the install, run LVSE, do a GET of your Video Source Adjust menu settings and SAVE them to a file on the PC. You can reverse that process after the install to restore them as well. This and the Reload Saved User Settings can be used to restore your settings after the install.

-----------------------------------------

Update your ARC application to V1.2.2 -- also available from the Anthem public download page. Your original ARC installation CD includes 2 calibration and licensing files -- with names that include the serial # of your D2 and the serial # of your uniquely calibrated ARC microphone. Open the ARC V1.2.2 folder you downloaded from the Anthem site and you will find a Setup program. Copy those two calibration files into the same folder as the Setup program. Then run the Setup program to install ARC V1.2.2. If you have previously installed an older version of ARC it will delete it.

-------------------------------------------

Download the latest version of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual from the Anthem public download page and read the new Section 3.15 in there. In particular, look at its instructions for mic positioning. You will need to position the mic to at least 5 separate locations. ARC takes measurements at each location and uses the variation it hears between the locations to distinguish room response from the inherent performance of your speakers. All the mic locations need to be at seated ear height or close to it and with the mic pointing straight up. The individual mic locations need to be at least 24 inches apart from each other. The #1 position must be at your dead center listening position and then you must alternate either side of center for subsequent mic positions.

Prior to running the ARC measurements, there is another step to do to get the test tone volumes correct:

Using your trusty Radio Shack SPL meter (on Slow Response and C weighting), go into Setup / Speaker Calibration and set the volume trim for the Front Left speaker and for the subwoofer both to 0dB. Then turn on Manual in the first line and scroll down to the Noise Level line. Adjust Noise Level until your Front Left speaker is producing roughly 75dB as measured at your dead center listening position (ARC mic position #1 -- SPL meter pointing straight up). Leave the volume trim setting for the Front Left speaker at 0dB, just adjust the Noise Level line.

[ETA: CAUTION -- Due to an apparent bug, the test tone volume produced by the Noise Level line is affected by the volume set in the Left Front speaker line. So do it as stated above: Set the Left Front line to 0dB and THEN adjust the Noise Level line.]

Now scroll to the subwoofer line. Leave that line at 0dB but adjust the internal volume knob on your subwoofer until it, too measures roughly 75dB at the same listening position. There is no need to be super precise in these adjustment -- a ball park setting is sufficient.

ARC will use the Noise Level setting you have just made to set the volume for its own test sweep tones, and the adjustment you have just made to your subwoofer's volume knob insures that it, too, can be level adjusted properly to match. If you happen to have any other speakers with internally powered amps (i.e., with a volume control on them) do the same for them.

Back out of the Setup menu. Run the ARC application.

---------------------------------------------------------

Prior to doing ARC measurements, you must tell ARC what speakers you want it to use -- e.g., whether or not you have rear speakers for example.

If you decide you want your Music speaker configuration to be distinct from your Movie configuration then ARC will do 2 entire passes, i.e., you'll need to reposition the mic all over again for the Music pass.

Setting up ARC goes in 4 steps. First you take your Measurements. Then ARC Calculates its correction parameters. Then ARC Uploads those to the D2. And finally you need to go into Setup / Source Setup for each D2 input and turn Room EQ = ON. The ARC Upload will also change your speaker cross overs and your speaker volume levels. After doing the ARC Upload, it is wise to do a Save User and/or Installer Settings to record those changes in the memories. Then if you ever need to Reload Saved Settings you won't accidentally undo the settings ARC calculated for those. ARC also uploads room correction parameters which you will not see in the Setup menu, but which are there nonetheless.

Your Listener Position (i.e., speaker distances) and the Polarity and Phase settings for your subwoofer are not modified by ARC. You need to set those manually. You can set those either before or after doing the ARC measurements and upload of results. The ARC results will just work better once you've made the correct manual settings for those.

But don't fiddle with your Speaker Configuration, or cross overs, or Speaker Calibration settings as that will mess up what ARC has set up. You can, of course, always re-do the ARC measurements and upload new results. If you still like your most recent measurements, and nothing needs to be changed in the speaker configuration ARC used for those measurements, then there is no need to re-Measure. Run ARC in Advanced mode, open the file it saved with the measurements and calculations and just re-Upload that. This will also correct any Setup menu changes you made by mistake after the last ARC Upload.

------------------------------------------

ARC can be run in Advanced mode to get more control over the process. I recommend you do that. In Advanced mode, you tell ARC when to Measure, when to Calculate, and when to Upload. You can also view the Targets window which will show you some of the decisions ARC has made in its calculations. I strongly advise you don't change any of the Targets settings on your own. Go with what ARC suggests. In particular, do *NOT* raise the upper EQ frequency above 5KHz. Even though increasing it makes the calculated results curves look better above 5KHz that result is misleading. Frequencies that high are too directional, which means what the ARC mic picks up at the different listening positions contains variations that have nothing to do with what ARC is really looking for. I.e, there's no good data for it to use up there as regards room response.
--Bob
post #14421 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

John,
Just to be sure there isn't something silly going on here, you do realize I hope that after you upload the Custom Gamma correction stuff from Live Video Settings Editor into the D2, you ALSO need to go into the Video Source Adjust / Output menu for EACH D2 INPUT and change the Gamma Correction setting in that menu to use either the gray scale gamma curve you uploaded or the RGB color gamma curves you uploaded. Right?
--Bob

Yes I did thank you. I changed it in the live video settings editor and then verified it in the video source adjust.
post #14422 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Actually, I've not used these so I can't point you at the settings.

But a display calibration tool has to be told what gamma you are targeting. And if you set it to target 2.2 and it produces 1.75 as the result, then something is not right.

It also puzzles me that you said modifying the color gamma curves didn't alter your gray scale ramp. The only way that should be true is if you made no changes. The gray scale ramp (gray scale gamma response) is simply the combination of the gamma responses of R, G, and B together as those 3 inputs are increased in equal step with each other.
--Bob

I do not believe there is a target value for the colorimeter as it only takes measurements. It's the colorHCFR software that has the option for gamma target.
post #14423 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_fitz View Post

I do not believe there is a target value for the colorimeter as it only takes measurements. It's the colorHCFR software that has the option for gamma target.

Yes, this setting would be in the software.

So do I understand you correctly? You told the software to produce a gamma of 2.2, and it guided you through the steps to get that via the Custom adjustment curves in Live Video Settings Editor. But then after installing those curves in the D2 and looking at the results, it told you your gamma was still 1.75?

This makes no sense to me.
--Bob
post #14424 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes, this setting would be in the software.

So do I understand you correctly? You told the software to produce a gamma of 2.2, and it guided you through the steps to get that via the Custom adjustment curves in Live Video Settings Editor. But then after installing those curves in the D2 and looking at the results, it told you your gamma was still 1.75?

This makes no sense to me.
--Bob

That's what I'm sayin. There was no guiding, I played with the rgb levels in the D2 so that they were flat and my gamma ended up being 1.75. Now I adjusted my black and white levels after this so I don't know if that messed things up.

I going home tonight to play with them again to see if I didn't load them properly and I'll check it over again.
post #14425 of 42673
mr fitz,

after doing the same calibrations you did with your jvc, that i did on my sony kdl52xbr2 tv, i came up with the same results, my gamma was about 1.75. I havent messed around with the gamma curves on the d2 because well we just had a baby girl, and i dont know how the hell it works anyway. is there a good guide for adjusting the gamma in the d2 and measuring it? i know the basics which bob wrote before. anyway, you are not alone and I would like to know how we can work this out too. might be an eyeone problem or hcfr problem i am thinking. also can anyone tell me how to change the gamma inside a tv? i have the service manual for my tv and have changed the gray scale inside the service menu, which i am very comfortable with. anyway, anyone got any clues? Bob? hahaha
post #14426 of 42673
I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.

Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?

My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.

What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?
I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?

Thanks
post #14427 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemark81 View Post

I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.

Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?

My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.

What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?
I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?

Thanks

The current firmware is 2.36 and Yes it will decode dts-ma to LPCM that the D2 can handle.

I think the 80g (60g also) has wireless connectivity aside from the hard drive capacity
post #14428 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by ensmarcum View Post

mr fitz,

after doing the same calibrations you did with your jvc, that i did on my sony kdl52xbr2 tv, i came up with the same results, my gamma was about 1.75. I havent messed around with the gamma curves on the d2 because well we just had a baby girl, and i dont know how the hell it works anyway. is there a good guide for adjusting the gamma in the d2 and measuring it? i know the basics which bob wrote before. anyway, you are not alone and I would like to know how we can work this out too. might be an eyeone problem or hcfr problem i am thinking. also can anyone tell me how to change the gamma inside a tv? i have the service manual for my tv and have changed the gray scale inside the service menu, which i am very comfortable with. anyway, anyone got any clues? Bob? hahaha

I use colorfacts with eye1pro for my video calibration. I also set gamma targets to 2.2 when I do my calibration. With my Epson 1080ub, I get a gamma of 2.1. With other PJ's its between 1.8 and 2.45. Maybe its the limitation of the PJ or calibration technique.
post #14429 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Download the latest version of the D2 V1.3x Operating Manual from the Anthem public download page and read the new Section 3.15 in there. In particular, look at its instructions for mic positioning. You will need to position the mic to at least 5 separate locations. ARC takes measurements at each location and uses the variation it hears between the locations to distinguish room response from the inherent performance of your speakers. All the mic locations need to be at seated ear height or close to it and with the mic pointing straight up. The individual mic locations need to be at least 24 inches apart from each other. The #1 position must be at your dead center listening position and then you must alternate either side of center for subsequent mic positions.

(... long but informationally packed post ...)
--Bob

Bob:

This was an awesome 'manual in a post' description. I'm printing it out, like many of your posts. Thanks.
post #14430 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemark81 View Post

I don't know much about the PS3, but I am tired of waiting for a Blu-Ray player that will decode all audio codecs and output it as a PCM signal for the Anthem to handle.

Can anyone tell me if the PS3 with the software (2.30) will actually decode DTS-MA and output it to the Anthem as a PCM signal via HDMI?

My understanding is that the PS3 is still one of the best available and even better than the new DMP-BD50 from Panasonic.

What are the different memory capacities for on the PS3's? They range from 20 gig hard drives to 80 gig. Why would I need a large hard drive?
I assume the larger memories is more for gaming than for movies?

Thanks

Absolutely get a PS3! It is the bee's knees with the Anthems, perhaps even the cat's pajamas. I'm watching one as I type this.

One caveat: Be sure to get the 40GB PS3 model *ONLY*. The 40GB model uses newer versions of the high powered processing chips that run cooler, and that means its fan is much less likely to kick in. I.e., for Blu-Ray playback, it is QUIET. *ALL* of the other PS3 models, including the recently re-introduced 80GB model, run much hotter and are much more likely to exhibit annoying amounts of fan noise.

The disc size in the PS3 is more or less irrelevant for Blu-Ray playback. It is also possible to buy a larger disc drive and put it in yourself (Sony provides instructions for doing this) if you ever needed to.

I only recommend the PS3 as a Blu-Ray player (and of course for PS3 games I suppose). I recommend you continue to use some other player for other disc formats, including standard DVDs.

Also plan on getting an IR2BT remote converter which will allow you to control the PS3 (which uses a BlueTooth radio remote) using any competent, universal, programmable IR remote control -- such as the Logitech Harmony.

ETA: I just read the other response above. The 40GB PS3 also comes with wireless internet stuff built in. No problem there. It lacks the ability to play SACD discs (use another player as I suggested above) and also lacks any backwards compatibility with older PlayStation games, which of course doesn't matter if you are buying it as a Blu-Ray player.
--Bob
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