Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 53

Originally Posted by rudolpht

That's a hard one to answer, only because it's hard to describe. It's (searching for analogies) as flexible as about any 1/4" braided shielded cable, but comes in multiple lengths. Guessing about the same flexibility as shielded RG-59 cable to use a different cable comparison. I know there are perpendicular adaptors for tight spots.

Tim

Originally Posted by nkb

I have had my replacement D2(#5) for a day now. It works fine except once it gets hot, accessing the setup menu is a problem(flashes on and off, colors washed out).

I also experienced a couple of times when switching between HD and non HD channels on SAT that I would only have a blue screen and no audio either. Switching to another source and back to SAT cures the problem.

Looking for fan suggestions. I remember someone posted pictures a while back but I think that thread got booted off.

Experience with Zbreeze anyone? Seems a bit pricey.

Originally Posted by randman

Can you describe the environment of your D2? For example, how much open ventilation do you have around the D2, what's the ambient temperature in the room, are there other heat producing components around the D2, etc.

My D2 has a good 7" above it, and is well ventilated. It's open in the back and perforated steel to the left, right, and front. My D2 feels barely warm to the touch.

Originally Posted by nkb

Randman,

Fair question.

For testing, I currently have the D2 sitting in the middle of the room, no cabinet, no other heat generating equipment. Open in every direction but sitting on a hard surface. The ambient temperature is 73 F. I do not have air conditioning in that room - not really needed as it very, very rarely approaches an ambient 80. (I am in Northern California, well insulated new house, no major sunlight incursion into the room.)

Even out in the open, the D2 still gets hot and eventually the setup video degrades. If I take an external household fan and direct it on the D2, it cools down to "cool to the touch" in a couple of minutes. Then the setup video returns. Unfortunately, it is not just the setup screen. Last night after watching an SD movie from SAT for 2+ hours the video processing on 480i started producing a jittery image. HD was OK. Again directing a fan on the unit, cured the problem.

This D2 seems more sensitive to heat than its 4 predecessors (when they worked). So I definitely do not think that Anthem has made any changes/inroads on the cooling issues.

I haven't checked it scientifically but suspect that when not doing video processing that the overheating problem is not as severe.

You say your D2 is "well ventilated". Do you have forced air or just relying on convection and ample space around it? Do you have space below the unit as well, I couldn't tell from your post. Mine is just sitting on its feet on a surface.

After 5 units, there is not much to say about the "quality" and design of this unit. It is clearly thermally challenged. Your experience may vary ... but the design is just not robust.

I will get a fan and hope that the unit stays operating. Probably one of the stackable kind, as recommended.

Holding the modern day record for returned D2's at 4, I will not be going for 5.

Clearly, I remain disappointed with this whole D2 saga. Anthem has listened to me all the way through and been responsive. They have even (apparently) changed the HDMI jacks based upon my recommendations and perhaps others. BTW, I have not had any problems with the new HDMI jacks - so that is a step in the right direction.

Originally Posted by nkb

You say your D2 is "well ventilated". Do you have forced air or just relying on convection and ample space around it? Do you have space below the unit as well, I couldn't tell from your post. Mine is just sitting on its feet on a surface.

Originally Posted by yatchaks

It just occured to me, shouldn't I be able to apply a post processing format to 5.1 material (I am running a 5.1 system) such as PLIIx movies? My AVM-50 just shows 5.1 even though PLIIx movies is selected in the set up menu. When I push mode attempting to switch, the display says "Dolby D 5.1 input none".

I have been experimenting with my new HD-A1 and this is when I noticed this. With the Toshiba, it only shows 5.1 on the active display even though I have PLIIx movies selected. After pressing mode, the display reads "6.0 channel input none" with PLIIx movies selected. I then switched to my Moto 6412 cable box, turned to several 5.1 movie channels, and get the "Dolby D 5.1 input none".

The only red light I get to the left of the display with the cable box selected is DD.

I don't get any red lights when playing the Toshiba.

Am I missing something or is this correct?

Originally Posted by wingnut4772

Quick question. I am sure it's a setting but I am getting drop outs while playing cds on my Pioneer 79avi. I have the D2 set to HDMI in for audio with the repeater off. The pioneer is set at 1080i with none of the fancy schmancy stuff on. It occurs on all formats.

Originally Posted by wingnut4772

If you only have 5 speakers the D2 won't dp PLIIX - at least that was my experience when I was redoing my room and only had 5 for a while. As soon as I selected 7 the PLIIX showed up.

Originally Posted by elmac

Its not D2
I have the same problem with my 79AVi
All CD's work fine on oppo

Originally Posted by dsm363

I just got the Oppo DVD player (970HD I believe) and tried connection it via HDMI to HDMI 3 causing the picture to blink every 5 seconds or so. This doesn't happen on HDMI 4.
From reading some of the prior posts, it looks like I have the older style HDMI ports. From what I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any bent posts on HDMI 3 though. Has Anthem been swaping out broken HDMI ports?
Also, a simple question. I have the D2 to ouput 1080p to my new Sony SXRD TV. The picture from the Oppo looks good but am not sure if it's actually being scaled to 1080p. Is there a way to check? Thanks.

Dave

Originally Posted by elmac

Press number 7 on your Anthem Remote and hold it for about 5 sec go to info that will tell you your ins and outs
Did you try 1 or 2 inputs to see what happens
also what software are you running on D2

Originally Posted by wingnut4772

As long as I leave the TV on it seems not to be a problem. The cds play pretty smoothly and the drop outs are only a few but I think that as I experiment they are happening when my set fully powers down and at the very moment the cooling fan shuts off. I see now that it is doing it then every time...I will keep listening to see if it plays smoothly afterwards.

Originally Posted by dsm363

porst 1 and 2 work fine. I've got my Sony DVD player in 1 and a DVR in 2.
Looks like my model is a early model too from the serial number.
If it does turn out to be broken, hopefully I can get it fixed.

Originally Posted by elmac

This is correct
PLIIX is an extension of PLII
PLII is for 5.1
where PLIIx is for 6.1 and up
if you only have 5 speakers selected PLIIx will not kick in
IF you decide to select any back speakers on D2 than PLIIx will kick in, but if you don't have speakers hooked up you will have missing sound out of surround speakers. What PLIIx does is separates sound out of surround speakers and sends it to back speaker/s which makes a complete sound
Imagine taking out your centre channel and not disabling it in D2.
that would be the same thing.
Hope this helps

Originally Posted by wingnut4772

As long as I leave the TV on it seems not to be a problem. The cds play pretty smoothly and the drop outs are only a few but I think that as I experiment they are happening when my set fully powers down and at the very moment the cooling fan shuts off. I see now that it is doing it then every time...I will keep listening to see if it plays smoothly afterwards.

Originally Posted by dsm363

I just got the Oppo DVD player (970HD I believe) and tried connection it via HDMI to HDMI 3 causing the picture to blink every 5 seconds or so. This doesn't happen on HDMI 4.
From reading some of the prior posts, it looks like I have the older style HDMI ports. From what I can tell, there doesn't appear to be any bent posts on HDMI 3 though. Has Anthem been swaping out broken HDMI ports?
Also, a simple question. I have the D2 to ouput 1080p to my new Sony SXRD TV. The picture from the Oppo looks good but am not sure if it's actually being scaled to 1080p. Is there a way to check? Thanks.

Dave

Originally Posted by obie_fl

How is your A1 connected? HDMI, S/PDIF or analog 5.1?
What do you have the A1 setup to output? Auto, PCM, Bitstream, Downsampled PCM?

Originally Posted by elmac

Check with Nick,
But they still use same connectors, so unless yours is damage they will not touch the connectors.
Also what software are you running and did you try to plug in your sony DVD to 3 to see if it works?

Originally Posted by placidman

Greetings,

Try setting the Repeater to On (Yes). This should take care fo the problem. I had the same issue with the Oppo. If my projector was on there was no problem playing DVD Audio/CD etc. If the projector was off I got nothing. Switching the Repeater from Off (No) to On (Yes) took care of it.

Regards,

Originally Posted by LEVESQUE

This applies to everything else also. It should always be the display first, then the D2, and then all the sources.

Originally Posted by yatchaks

How would a cable box or satellite box fit in this sequence? Most people leave these item on all the time for recording purposes.

Originally Posted by placidman

Greetings,

Actually my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR/STB does not have to powered On to record. Some of the older boxes I have had in the past did but tis one does not. In most cases the Anthem and display should already BE powered on prior to source components. The exception would be a music player which would not necessaily require to display be on when listening to music.

My Denon 3910 and 8300HD have no such issues. It does not matter which is powered on first. If I switched inputs on the Anthem they search for an active HDMI signal until I switch back. In that case they simply reaquire the signal.


Regards,

Originally Posted by LEVESQUE


I remember reading somewhere that William Phelps, the famous calibrator, was having alot of problems with HDMI cables and 1080i/p signals with 1080p projectors, and that only some high-end optical cables and the Ultralink HDMI Pro were free of problems. All the other "regular" HDMI cables (RAM, PacificCable, Monoprice...) were having intermittent problems with 1080i/p.