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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 73

post #2161 of 42717
Bluemark81,
Thanks for the detailed info. I didn't see anything there that would help you. Apparently this small menu at 1080i is a "feature". There's probably nothing for it except to complain to Anthem.

The question you asked about Restore Factory Defaults has a simple answer:

You Save User Settings, then Restore Factory Defaults, then Restore Saved User Settings back again. This gets everything back to where you had it except for some settings that are specifcally intended to be temporary such as "on the fly" changes in relative speaker volumes. My intent was to get the unit into a known state and then restore your set of personal settings on top of that to see if this helped. This may still help with your 5.1 audio problem. But all the complicated Setup stuff you did for inputs and such will be restored back the way you had it.

This is a procedure recommended in the Anthem manual whenever something unexplained is happening -- just in case you accidentally set one of the temporary settings that affects the problem.
--Bob
post #2162 of 42717
Nine Ball,
Well how 'bout that! Be sure to tell your wife that you, "meant to do that!"

I hope this sorts out your HDMI problems for you.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bluemark81,
On your comment about the number of displayed bars:

You said you were short a couple bars. Your Toshiba likely has a significant amount of overscan (i.e., it is adjusted so that the edges of the image are actually off screen and not visible) since that makes it easier to keep the rest of the image properly focused for all three colors. So you may just have lost 2 bars off the sides.

But if you have a couple of "wide" bars -- particularly at either end of the brightness scale -- then all this means is that you have not yet properly adjusted the black and white levels in your Toshiba.

Use the Toshiba's Brightness control to adjust black level and its Contrast control to adjust white level and see if you can't make those 2 wider bars split into 4 separately visible bars. Brightness and Contrast interact so you may need to iterate a bit to find the best compromise setting for both of them.
--Bob
post #2163 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Ralph,
I suspect the fact that you reset to Factory Defaults prior to re-installing may have been more important than physically unplugging the HDMI plugs. If the HDMI source device is powered off, the HDMI should be completely idle just as if it was unplugged.

It may be that this firmware install really does need to be preceded by a restore to Factory Defaults.
--Bob

Greetings,

Bob, actually I had already gone back to factory prior to the original attempt. I have both the Toshiba HD DVD player and the Panasonic DMP-BD10. My unit was set to the HDMI input that the Panasonic was plugged in to at the time of the problem. I believe that some HDMI equipped devices even though in standby mode (not shut down by a hard power switch or unplugged) are not severing the HDMI handshake. The problem I had was that the HDMI inputs that were connected to the these players no longer worked and only displayed a blank screen ( still had the audio Nineball). I tried it several times that way.

I discussed it with Nick and we both arrived at the same conclusion. I went back and disconnected them and tried it again and all was fine.

Nineball, glad to see that you are up and running.


Regards,
post #2164 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

FilmMixer,
Try the trick I mentioned to Budeone and see if it helps:

1) Re-install V1.06

2) Save your settings to a PC file if you haven't already done so.

3) Restore Factory Defaults in the D2 Setup menu to get things back to a known state.

4) Now try to install V1.10 over V1.06 set to Factory Defaults

5) If that works then you can restore your saved settings from the PC file.

---------------------------------------------------------

Also, since it is failing in the On Screen Display portion of the firmware, if you have any secondary screen connected via S-video for example, disconnect that as well as the HDMI.

Also, find the Serial port setup for the port your are using and confirm that RTS/CTS is turned OFF on your PC for that port.

I suppose this could also be a baud rate issue triggered by different file sizes in the new firmware. You could try lowering or even raising the serial port speed one step.
--Bob

Bob.. thanks for the info... There is nothing connnected at all.. I will try the baud rates.... I had alredy blown out to factory defaults before starting..... One time I did get an error that said it couldn't set baud rate to 115200 ( I am set at 9600 ) but I haven't tried it again since reinstalling 1.06 and changing the baud to 115k... Thanks again.. Marc.
post #2165 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Tim,

I'll try to assist, but I am astonished this is not working for you still. So, here goes some things to try:

1. Here are my settings for my Video Output, menu 8:
OSD Format: NTSC
Preferred: HDMI
Resolution: 1080i/60
Color Space: HDTV
Data Format: YCbCr 4:2:2
LetterBox: Black
Sync: Normal
Component 2 Out: Zone 2 ****THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT****

2. Also, make sure that for the Series 3 settings, you have something similar to this:

RENAME: Cable
Scaler Input: HDMI4 (yours may be a different HDMI input of course)

Only difference, VCR device renamed "HDTIV", HDMI2 (shouldn't matter)
Quote:



HMDI Repeater: No (very important)
Component Video In: 1 (or whichever yours is)

Component 3 (shouldn't matter)
Quote:



S-Video In: AUX
Composite Video In: AUX
Audio In: Dig OPT3 (or whichever Optical input you are using)
AutoDig: Yes ***This is quite important as well***

Main difference number 1. I'm using audio only from the HDMI. (and all the optical audio ins are used up)
Quote:



3. Lastly, and this is also very important...
Make sure that your settings under Menu 5 (Source Setup/Presets), make sure that all of the "Copy Main-->Zone2, Copy Main--->Zone 3, and Copy Main---Rec" are all set to "Manual". You can always copy inputs to other zones on an ad hoc basis, but by default, if I understand your needs correctly, you want to be able to have independent zones whereby different sources can be viewed/listened to in the different zones at the same time.

Main Difference Number 2: These are all set to Manual, BUT MAYBE MINE SHOULDN'T be. I am only using Zone 2 because the normal mirroring of the component out isn't working to my 2nd monitor. I'll never watch a different source than what I am listening 2 on the Main Zone. Our big difference is you use the Zones as Zones. I'm using Zone 2 only because I have to to get the Tivo video to my second monitor in the same room as my projector. So, maybe I should try Copy Main -->Zone 2 Bob, would appreciate your thoughts.

Quote:


4. Also, you made a comment that raised an eyebrow over here. You said something about "even when the amp has turned itself off automatically after shutting down Zone 1." If you are using an Anthem A5 or P5, then yes, you have the automatic shutdown capability after 10 minutes or so, the amp will go into standby if there is no signal. This is a super cool feature, I'm totally with ya, and I'm glad to hear you are using it. However, you never mentioned having a second amp dedicated to Zone 2. I just wanna make sure that you do indeed have a second amp of some sort powering Zone 2. Each Zone needs its own amp to be useful. This is probably obvious, and you probably already know this, I just wanna make sure. In my case, I use an Anthem A5 for Zone 1, and an Anthem A2 for Zone 2. Zone 3 gets its power off of a 20-watt Computer Amp that is connected to my Mac, so that is a bit of an oddball setup in Zone 3 (I call it Franken-Amp!).

No second Amp and my primary is a Anthem 7 channel so it triggers (and would auto shutoff I assume) BUT since I turned Zone 2 on to watch the Pre-Amp doesn't go aff.

My Remote journey Try 2 started with making sure any off sequence included shutting off Zone 2. My Remote journey Try 3 included my making sure I turned on Zone 2 when Watching HD-Tivo, Cable HD Moto Box, or Simmetry (DVD/SACD/DVD-Audio). I assumed (INCORRECTLY) triggering a device in Zone 2 would actually turn on Zone 2.... It doesn't. Thank goodness the CCF file has the power on for Zone 2 because I could not learn it.
Quote:



And, as Bob mentioned and as you've now confirmed, make sure the Tivo Series 3 is outputting "Native Mode".

Yup

Quote:



There is no reason that the recipe above should not work with the Series 3. Of course, cabling is a nightmare, as you need both optical audio out and RCA stereo outputs to be connected, you also need HDMI as well as Component, and even SVideo and Composite if you want to independently output to any Zone (including REC zone) that uses SVideo or Composite [in my case, Zone 3 uses Composite, and REC uses SVideo, so I need those as well]. This again is how every source in my setup is configured basically - that is, I am using EVERY possible cable connection between every source and the D2, thereby allowing me to have the fully independent multi-zone, multi-source switching that I require).

Yikes, but makes sense. I already have named my generations of cables in layers like the Pliestone Age, etc., but I am not running the optical audio which I would need if I was using Zone 2 as a real zone. My ba$tardized setup is working, though if the HD-Tivo worked on mirroring the Main zone properly (like the Motocable does) it would all be simple. Right now it works, but there's enough variables to keep me redoing remote presses to get on track.

Quote:


I know some of this is repeated from before, but wanted to place everything in 1 comprehensive thread response.

Good luck, let me know how I can help further.

-Brian

THANKS for all your help. I guess I should be thankful that the S3 has hot component output. Setting up a "dummy" zone to get a second monitor to work with the Main audio has been a challenge, but even slightly cludged the Anthem has come through, with many thanks to the good folks here.
Tim
post #2166 of 42717
I would physically disconnect all HDMI devices unless you actually pulled the power cables off the sources. Most cable and Sat boxes aren't really "off" when turned off. I now my cable box can cycle on/off just by switching HDMI inputs on the D2.

Bob - Not sure if this got answered but the OSD is fine under 1080i/p it is just the video menu that gets really small.
post #2167 of 42717
OK Tom, that shows they already know how to adjust their character overlay graphics for 1080i/p. So they really should do the same thing for the Video Source Adjust menus.

Shucks! It aint perfect! Sniffle.....

----------------------------------------------------------

Meanwhile I'm getting ready to get really miffed at them if I find I can't calibrate the display properly for my Pioneer Elite 59avi DVD player because they took away source adjustments for RGB to RGB video....
--Bob
post #2168 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

OK Tom, that shows they already know how to adjust their character overlay graphics for 1080i/p. So they really should do the same thing for the Video Source Adjust menus.

Shucks! It aint perfect! Sniffle.....
--Bob

Sorry, I disagree. I like the Gennum menu just like it is, so I can see borders and height and width clearly when I trim Edges, or when I crop, change stretch modes, etc. The whole point is to be able to see the result of your work clearly, so they use a Translucent menu structure, and they make the menu 640x480, allowing you to see the edges clearly, so you know what you're adjusting - the theory being that most folks will either have 720p or 1080i/p native sets, so in either case, you can see what 480i looks like when it's exactly 480 pixels by 640 pixels, and still see the edges and borders so that you see what you are modifying. This static pixel height and width is important, as it allows you to see the results of per pixel changes in video settings. If you have to move a little closer to the screen (I do not, but I have 20/20 vision, and yes I do recognize that some might have to), that is a reasonable act me thinks for understanding EXACTLY what you are modifying as you modify it.

Really, this is not a problem IMO. The menu can be seen very clearly, it's just different than the Setup menu, for the reasons given above.

-Brian
post #2169 of 42717
Brian,
I think I see what you are getting at, but in reality most people aren't using this menu primarily for such fine work once they have things set up initially. They are using it to switch between operating modes they already know are set right (such as anamorphic vs letter/pillar box). There's no reason for 1080i/p version of the menu to be hard to read, by design, for such use. Bluemark81 talks about having to get right up to the screen to read the text. This could be a result of the way his CRT is displaying 1080i but if that's the way it is on most displays that's not right.

On the other hand, you say you have no problem reading the smaller menu. I don't have a 1080 display so I have no opinion on how legible it is.

But for heavens sake if the idea is just to have a 640x480 reference on the higher resolution display while you tweak things, then just put markers within the larger, more legible graphics like they do in most every form of standard calibration test chart. I'm not saying the menu has to fill the display. I'm saying it should be designed to be easily legible from normal viewing distance regardless of resolution. And that means filling about 50% of the screen in the current menu format.

Either that or split out the operational menus from the pixel tweaking menus.
--Bob
post #2170 of 42717
Tom.. if that messsage was for me... I unplugged all video input to the D2 before upgrading... this is a weird one.. I'll let ya know what Nick says... thanks to all for the help..
post #2171 of 42717
My Kludge Zone 2 has a problem, I can't get my MX-850 remote to issue a Zone-2 ON command. I copy it from the CCF but no joy. (Z2 off works fine & Z2 on works on the MX-950 works). One more reason to trade out the couple dozen MX-800/850s I have in use.

Anybody help with a Zone 2 ON (Z2+Power on Anthem remote) for MX-700/800 series???
post #2172 of 42717
Placidman & Bob Pariseau,
I thought I was ok but no joy.....I have sound but no video via HDMI to the ruby. I do have a soft fuzzy poor colour rendition via component (I think) but for some reason 1080P/60 from the D2 just won't take. The ruby has an input button which toggles from "VIDEO" to "HDMI" and video works and HDMI goes black. This is exactly your phenomena.

Placidman I am going to take most of the day off tomorrow and do as you have suggested. I have about a three hundred foot walk to get from the front of my rack to the rear access so there are times I am a little lazy when I have to fiddle with cabling.

Do you think it will make a difference if I disconnect each HDMI connection at each device and leave the D2 side alone? The D2 is in a difficult location to get at but if there is no other way.....................

Peter
post #2173 of 42717
nine ball,
It isn't the physical HDMI connection that would cause a problem, it's some electrical signal between the two devices. Disconnecting the cable at either end would be sufficient.

It should also be sufficient to disconnect the other devices from wall power unless there's some sort of ground loop that might put power on that cable coming from some futher removed source.

But pulling the HDMI cable from one end or the other will make sure there's nothing coming in to the Anthem that might hinder upgrade of the HDMI related firmware.
--Bob
post #2174 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

Placidman & Bob Pariseau,
I thought I was ok but no joy.....I have sound but no video via HDMI to the ruby. I do have a soft fuzzy poor colour rendition via component (I think) but for some reason 1080P/60 from the D2 just won't take. The ruby has an input button which toggles from "VIDEO" to "HDMI" and video works and HDMI goes black. This is exactly your phenomena.

Placidman I am going to take most of the day off tomorrow and do as you have suggested. I have about a three hundred foot walk to get from the front of my rack to the rear access so there are times I am a little lazy when I have to fiddle with cabling.

Do you think it will make a difference if I disconnect each HDMI connection at each device and leave the D2 side alone? The D2 is in a difficult location to get at but if there is no other way.....................

Peter

Greetings,

Peter, I agree with Bob. Pulling the HDMI cable on either end will ensure that the connection between the source and D2 is severed. Be sure to est to factory prior to attempting again.

Your description of the problem sounds identical to the one that I experienced. This should hopefully resolve that and get you up and running.

Regards,
post #2175 of 42717
Ralph and Bob,

Thank you for sticking with me through this. The way to ensure that the D2 is reset to factory is to load the set up program first....I assume??? sorry to ask but I want too get this right from the start of this run.
also I assume that the cables other than HDMI are ok???? please say they are so I don't have to start over completely.......

Peter

ps Bob, if this works you may have to share your bottle of port with Ralph and possibly even Nick.
post #2176 of 42717
Hopefully you already have a saved copy of your settings in a file on the PC -- saved there prior to your first install of V1.10. You use Setup Editor in the V1.10 install kit to do this. If not you can save your current (V1.10) settings to a PC file and it will probably be OK to re-use those after you re-install V1.10.

Now you Restore Factory Defaults in the Save / Restore settings portion of the D2's own Setup Screen. Since you've already got V1.10 on your machine those will be V1.10 defaults. If you were not re-installing firmware, you could then reload your own settings from Saved User Settings in the same screen. But instead we're going to re-install the firmware and then reload the settings from the file you saved on the PC.

Then you power off the D2, disconnect the HDMI wires (either end), leave other wires attached, but turn off other devices. The serial cable should be attached to your PC. Now power on the D2 and your computer.

Then you re-install V1.10 on top of itself using the install program in the V1.10 install kit.

Now if you have already saved a copy of your Settings to a file on your PC (using Setup Editor in the V1.10 install kit for example) then you can use that file to reload your settings to the D2 after you complete the re-install of V1.10. Otherwise you will need to re-enter your D2 settings manually.
--Bob
post #2177 of 42717
Greetings,

Everything that Bob has said. The only thing I would recommend is that you verify that you do not have the blank screen prior to reloading your old settings. Be sure to use the new 1.10 setup editor and not any older version.

Good luck !

Regards,
post #2178 of 42717
Bluemark81,
The fact that you are having so much trouble reading the small menus at 1080i and that others are not implies to me that there may be some settings in your CRT rear projection TV that are fuzzing up the text.

So here are some suggestions:

1) Turn off SVM. This velocity modulation "enhancement" screws up black and white vertical edges by making the black wider than the white when they should be the same width. As you can imagine, that can really make it hard to read fine detail. This is intended for tricking the eye into thinking that crappy incoming signals look better. Turn it off and leave it off.

2) Lower Sharpness significantly. Sharpness is a different style of vertical edge enhancement. The factory default setting in your Toshiba is without question too high. This results in "ringing" or "haloing" of vertical edges which the casual eye thinks is extra detail. It is not. Such "false detail" makes it much harder to see the real detail as when reading text.

3) Lower Contrast. Contrast more or less controls how bright your whites are. If it is set too high you exceed the ability of your TV to raise brightness uniformly and near whites become indistinguishable from full white causing loss of detail. More importantly, in a CRT display white objects "bloom" or get fatter causing loss of detail.

4) Raise Brightness. Brightness more or less controls your ability to see near black detail. If it is too low, dark grays near black become indistinguishable from true black. However you want to be judicious here and not raise it too far. In addition, Contrast and Brightness interact so you need to find the best compromise setting of both of them.

5) Double check color convergence and adjust as necessary using your CRT TV's controls.

TV makers invariably set the defaults on their TVs too Bright, too Contrasty, overly Sharpness enhanced, and with too blue a color temperature (which fools people into thinking the screen is brighter) which they try to compensate for by overly enhancing Red colors -- so called "red push". Together, these abominations produce the infamous "torch mode" settings -- designed to catch the shopper's eye in the garish lighting in stores. Such settings are way wrong for best TV viewing, and among other things, make it hard to distinguish fine detail such as small text.

Using your DVD player and a calibration test disc such as Avia or Digital Video Essentials (DVE) you can set these basic levels properly yourself. If you haven't done that, then that may explain why the small menus are so hard for you to read.

With the D2 or AVM-50 in use, you want to first set the levels in your TV to best reproduce the images the Anthem generates all by itself. These include the test bar patterns and the Anthem menus themselves.

Then, leaving your newly refined TV settings unchanged, you make any necesssary adjustments for individual source devices in the Anthem's video source adjustment menu for that input.
--Bob
post #2179 of 42717
re: The video menu being unreadable at 1080i. I think this is more a resolving issue of CRTs then anything else. I have an 8" CRT front projector on a 108" screen and yes the text is very small but it may very well be readable if it was sharper. Only the most finely tuned and 9" CRTs can really resolve everything at 1080i. As far as a CRT is concerned with regards to resolving capabilty 1080i is the same as 1080P. If I finely tune and converge my projector I might be lucky to resolve 960P but that would take a lot of tweeking.

Having said all that I wish they would provide a bigger font for the menu at 1080i/P for us CRT owners.
post #2180 of 42717
Hello.

I was wondering if there are any compatability issues with the next gen HD/BR DVD players with the D2 from an audio or video standpoint. For example, the some of these new players will be using hdmi 1.3. Will this create any issues? For example, how well will the new Toshiba HD -XA2 connect with the D2? Any issues with passing DD True HD and the other HD audio formats?
post #2181 of 42717
Anyone using the AVM 50 with a pio elite plasma? I assume you have to still feed the TV through the media box. I'm on the edge of buying one. I have a mca 5 series II amp that I bought a while back but never made the big jump on the processor. Currently Im using a denon 3801 reciever. I'm thinking real hard about spending the cash Anyone one else make a move similar to mine want to convince me it was a significant upgrade and worth the expense? Thansks guys.
post #2182 of 42717
The new HD-XA2 should work the same way as the present HD DVD players. The new audio formats will continue to be decoded in the player and sent out as LPCM over the HDMI port. HDMI1.3 is downwards compatible with the previous versions. 1.3 really doesn't bring anything new to HD DVD as the audio decoding is done in the player and the deeper color of HDMI 1.3 is not present on either HD DVD or Blu-ray.
post #2183 of 42717
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by |M|B.M.F. View Post

I was wondering if there are any compatability issues with the next gen HD/BR DVD players with the D2 from an audio or video standpoint. For example, the some of these new players will be using hdmi 1.3. Will this create any issues?

Not at all. HDMI 1.3 is backward compatibles with prior HDMI versions.

HDMI 1.3 is more hype then anything else...

On the video side... Blu-rays and HD-DVDs are limited to 8 bit color. So "Deep Color" won't magically create something that is not already on the disk.

On the audio side... The only difference between HDMI 1.1 or 1.3 could be where the audio will be decoded. In the player (and then passing as LPCM over HDMI) or passed encoded over the HDMI connection to be decoded in the pre/pro to LPCM. And if a disc is encoded with "Advanced Content" (and they all are!) the player is going to decode the audio internally and pass it to the pre/pro as LPCM even with HDMI v1.3.

A good example of Advanced Content is all those annoying sounds you get when navigating the menus on the Toshiba HD-A1. And every Blu-ray and HD-DVD disks out there are encoded like that.
post #2184 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVESQUE View Post

A good example of Advanced Content is all those annoying sounds you get when navigating the menus on the Toshiba HD-A1. And every Blu-ray and HD-DVD disks out there are encoded like that.

Lest people think that is the only thing gained from Advanced Content, you also get mixing in of things like commentary and the like.. Resume is also an Advanced Content feature..

On my firmware upgrade saga, Nick and the boys are working on it... if there is anyone else here having issues, send him an email.
post #2185 of 42717
My CRT RPT has only one HD setting which is 1080i. I've been told that CRT's do not have internal scalers but simply adapt to incoming signals. So, what does the 1080i setting on my TV give me? If I set my AVM 50 at 720p output, what is my TV doing with the signal? ie Displaying it at 720p? What would it do if I fed it a 1080p signal? I have tried the AVM at both 720p and 1080i outputs and don't think I can see any difference other than the video adjustment display being larger when the output is set to 720p.
post #2186 of 42717
Bob Pariseau and Placidman,

Thank you Thank you Thank you.......It worked as you described and it appears to have worked well. I believe this is more than just a quirk and that someone (Nick?) should be told that the protocol for the upgrade should be as you have both indicated. I followed the steps to the letter and it worked the first time.

This is exceptional technology and the enjoyment shouldn't be tainted by unnecessary experimentation. I don't know whether its my imagination or not but the result is superior to the before status. AND switching is no longer a risky process. Well done Anthem!

AND if I can one more time.....thank you Bob and Ralph for your patience and support.

Peter
post #2187 of 42717
Kermitpsu2,
There is no media box any longer in the current generation of Pioneer plasmas. The off-air tuner is built into the plasma. (There are also commercial "monitor" versions of the plasmas that have no tuner). You would connect to the HDMI input of the plasma screen itself.

One gotcha to watch out for is that I don't believe the current crop of Pioneers accept their physical native pixel count as an input video resolution -- except on the 1:1 pixel matching computer input which may very well give you black/white level problems if you try to use it in a home theater setup. Check with the experts in the flat panel forum here.

Of course if you can pony up the bucks for the Pioneer Elite FHD-1 then you'll have a native 1920x1080p display. Yum!
--Bob
post #2188 of 42717
nine ball,
At the risk of jinxing things again, let me say once more that I'm glad it has finally worked out for you.

-----------------------------------------

Bluemark81,
You'd have to ask Toshiba what the TV is doing. It could be displaying the 720p signal unchanged or it could be scaling 720p to 1080i. For that generation TV, either option is about equally likely. If the latter, its internal scaler may or may not be any good, but detecting bad scaling takes some experience, so you may not see problems. Which is good.

The single link DVI connection in the Toshiba doesn't have the bandwidth to handle a 1080p signal.
--Bob
post #2189 of 42717
Bluemark81,
Also, double check in the Info panel to confirm the Anthem really is sending 720p. It's barely possible the Anthem is doing something unexpectedly clever here and sending 1080i but with a larger menu.
--Bob
post #2190 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

Bob Pariseau and Placidman,

Thank you Thank you Thank you.......It worked as you described and it appears to have worked well. I believe this is more than just a quirk and that someone (Nick?) should be told that the protocol for the upgrade should be as you have both indicated. I followed the steps to the letter and it worked the first time.

This is exceptional technology and the enjoyment shouldn't be tainted by unnecessary experimentation. I don't know whether its my imagination or not but the result is superior to the before status. AND switching is no longer a risky process. Well done Anthem!

AND if I can one more time.....thank you Bob and Ralph for your patience and support.

Peter

Greetings,

Peter, I am happy to hear that you are up and running. All the best and enjoy your D2 !

Regards,
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