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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1076

post #32251 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Anderson View Post
I can only assume this is a simple mistake and not a product marketing notification of direction for Anthem?
If the 2-channel models are listed then we did exactly what was asked, i.e. to not include multichannel equipment.
post #32252 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
He said 1600x1200 video OUTPUT (probably driving a CRT projector like me) which is regardless of the source input. I was actually planning to run my Barco at 1600x900 (because 1080p is too much for it) and the glossy brochures for the 50V said any resolution could be done.

Now I find out from ANTHEM Tech support that the LiveVideoSettingsEditor software is currently broken and doesn't work at all on the 50V. So regardless if the hardware can support it there is no software or firmware that can set up the custom resolutions. Apparently engineering is too busy working on the MRX software and we will be waiting for a while.

I consider this to be a deficiency in the current product and plan to bring this to ANTHEM management. It would help if other customers pressed this issue too. There are many other uses for the software which I haven't even got into yet.
No need to make things complicated. All you have to do is send an e-mail to tech support stating in simplest terms what you're trying to accomplish. LVSE development simply didn't keep up with adding two more video output configurations in menu, a much more popular request. This does not mean custom resolutions can no longer be uploaded, nor is LVSE the only means (it's just a GUI for serial commands). Regardless of how 1600x900 gets loaded, someone has to send us the projector's timing chart such that all the info that would be loaded in the custom resolution section of "normal" LVSE is known.
post #32253 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by my2cents View Post
Does anyone know when the final version of firmware 1.47f will be released for the D2? I haven't seen it mentioned here for a while, and I'd like to be able to take advantage of the HDMI handshake improvements in final version.

Also, I notice that a password is now required to access downloads in the D1/D2 archive section on the Anthem Statement website. What's up with that?
The password request was a web site problem that has been fixed.

From Anthem C/S

Good afternoon ,

Please check the website once again.

We were having technical difficulties with the website.

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...ntProduct.html
post #32254 of 42679
Thanks Nick for the fast response.

I am sorry to drag this out but....in looking at what other pre/pros were listed, and sensitized to the theory that this is a Stereophile listing, I am willing to stack my D2v up against 90% of the competitors products and bet the result would blow most of them away though I respect Anthem for taking their position for what-ever reason.

To note: Your Digital player was not represented, no Pre/pro, though yes, all your 2 - channel amps were there, as well as your integrated 225 amp. In all catagories, your family of products should have been submitted in my humble opinion.

Just a little surprised as your competitors didn't seem to shackle themselves to such a purist submission.

This might be simply pride speaking, so again, my apologies!

Cheers

Bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

If the 2-channel models are listed then we did exactly what was asked, i.e. to not include multichannel equipment.
post #32255 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Anderson View Post

I am sorry to drag this out but....in looking at what other pre/pros were listed, and sensitized to the theory that this is a Stereophile listing, I am willing to stack my D2v up against 90% of the competitors products and bet the result would blow most of them away though I respect Anthem for taking their position for what-ever reason.

No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.

When the BG sheet came to me to fill out, it only had blanks for 2-channel equipment - there was nothing else to decide.
post #32256 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post


No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.

When the BG sheet came to me to fill out, it only had blanks for 2-channel equipment - there was nothing else to decide.

Bring it on!!!
John
post #32257 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

No need for apologies because I wasn't in the least upset... well, until now. You mean you wouldn't stack a D2v against 100% of the competition as I would? Really, I've always been up for a shootout regardless of price.

Geesh Nick, you know us Canadians, we're so humble that though we of course mean 100%, we only state 90% to allow for those that think they are superior to fall into our trap

signed: Humble, but shamelessly sneaky!
post #32258 of 42679
I've had my D2 maybe 3 years or so with narry a hickup. This evening I turned it on and I don't have a video output from any source selected. It won't even display the Anthem menu. If I go to my the menu on my plasma, it displays fine. I've removed and re-installed the HDMI cable at the display and at the D2. Is there a troubleshooting tree for this type issue anywhere?
Thanks.
post #32259 of 42679
Cecaa - Please don't hit me for stating the obvious but are you sure the display didn't accidentally get switched to another input? The only other thing I can think of off the top my head would be to turn off the Anthem and pull the power cord for a few minutes and then plug it back in. Can you get audio from any of your sources?

ETA: The other standard troubleshooting is reseating the video card in the Anthem but you probably want to call Anthem if you are not comfortable opening your unit.
post #32260 of 42679
No problem, I've missed the obvious in the past. I used the Anthem remote and couldn't even get the on screen display. I triple checked my display input settings. I couldn't get a picture from any player or cable box.

Here's the wierd part. This morning, before I left for work I tried it one more time. Everything is now working as it should. I didn't change anything. Could this be a symptom of a video board starting to go bad? Just my luck it would act up right before the Super Bowl and has been working flawlessly for over 3 years.

Edit: audio was fine when video was out.
post #32261 of 42679
Hello,

I plan to change my Yamaha Z11 used as processor with a Sherbourn power amplifier 7/200 exclusively for home theater.

My current choice for a processor is limited to Anthem D2V or AVM 50V.

However, I have not been in a position to compare these two processor with the Yamaha Z11.

Then I do not know if I should choose the D2V or the AVM 50V to benefit from a significant improvement of the audio restitution when playing BR and Dvds. (I will not use the processor for HIFI since I have a dedicated system)

What would be your comments and recommendations ?

Kind regards

Frederic
post #32262 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by FredericG View Post

Hello,

I plan to change my Yamaha Z11 used as processor with a Sherbourn power amplifier 7/200 exclusively for home theater.

My current choice for a processor is limited to Anthem D2V or AVM 50V.

However, I have not been in a position to compare these two processor with the Yamaha Z11.

Then I do not know if I should choose the D2V or the AVM 50V to benefit from a significant improvement of the audio restitution when playing BR and Dvds. (I will not use the processor for HIFI since I have a dedicated system)

What would be your comments and recommendations ?

Kind regards

Frederic

I owned the 50v for a year but switched to the D2v about 3 weeks ago. No contest, I preferred the D2v! Sound is superb! Analog Re-digitization is completely transparent. ARC is the bomb!
post #32263 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

The password request was a web site problem that has been fixed.

From Anthem C/S

Good afternoon ,

Please check the website once again.

We were having technical difficulties with the website.

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev...ntProduct.html

Yep, got the same thing back from customer service. Also was told that they're still working on finalizing the 1.47f firmware, but that there are many issues yet remaining to correct. No prediction on when it would finally be released.
post #32264 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by my2cents View Post

Yep, got the same thing back from customer service. Also was told that they're still working on finalizing the 1.47f firmware, but that there are many issues yet remaining to correct. No prediction on when it would finally be released.

I wonder what those issues could be ?
I have found no issues since changing to 1.47f.
post #32265 of 42679
Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.
Bob if you could.
Thanks
Gerry
LL
LL
LL
post #32266 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1 View Post
Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.
Bob if you could.
Thanks
Gerry
Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.

Good luck and let us know how things turn out. BTW, I believe Bob is still monitoring this thread. So, I'm sure he will chime in if he feels you are not being lead correctly.
post #32267 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1
Please comment on my latest run with the new D2v and Seaton Submersive HP with sub balanced separately.
Bob if you could.
Thanks
Gerry
I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
John
post #32268 of 42679
For folks using the Oppo BDP-83 with the D2v or AVM 50v: Oppo just released new Public Beta firmware for the 83 which, in general, is quite good. Well worth a try.

However there is a specific problem of single speaker audio dropouts that can occur when using HDMI LPCM output of 7.1 TrueHD tracks -- just that one combo is affected. The cause is being investigated, but it is tricky because it only seems to show up on the Anthems. Use HDMI Bitstream from the 83 as a workaround when playing 7.1 TrueHD tracks.
--Bob
post #32269 of 42679
Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.

I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
John

Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.
Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.
I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.
Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.
By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.
Thanks again to you both.
Gerry
post #32270 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1 View Post

Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.

I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
John

Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.
Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.
I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.
Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.
By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.
Thanks again to you both.
Gerry

If you lower the Max EQ back to 5K does the calculated curve get any better in that region?
post #32271 of 42679
Actually it was at 5k and we raised it to 6.
post #32272 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1 View Post

Actually it was at 5k and we raised it to 6.

The attachment shows 10K for movie and 5 for music
post #32273 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.

Good luck and let us know how things turn out. BTW, I believe Bob is still monitoring this thread. So, I'm sure he will chime in if he feels you are not being lead correctly.

As Gerry mentioned, I had come in and done some further investigation with what was going on. The reality is that the dip is not there in the front row after the PEQ was added (which is the case for the ARC measurements). Having measured the different measurement points with my TEF25, I can confirm the upper octave bass dip is directly due to the inclusion of 2 measurements at the rear with 6-8 total taken (I forget which). The back row has an excess of bass in the low end and a peak up top which you see in the ARC measurement. We did move the subwoofer from between the C & R to under the center which made for much more consistent measurements across each row. The feel good fix would be to not measure the rear row. The mechanical fix is to add another subwoofer at the rear of the room, which currently won't fit.

I had installed a PEQ to provide a much better starting response, which took some significant boosting and cut a big peak on the bottom end. The other benefit was the ability to make a few last tweaks after ARC was done. Accepting the bass difference in the rear row, and not wanting the subs to be anemic in the front row, I measured the results of ARC at the different seats and chose to leave a little excess in the rear rows rather than pulling down the primary listening positions. This way there was main speaker correction that accounted for both front and rear rows and we massaged the subwoofer trade off between the two rows ourselves.
post #32274 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post


As Gerry mentioned, I had come in and done some further investigation with what was going on. The reality is that the dip is not there in the front row after the PEQ was added (which is the case for the ARC measurements). Having measured the different measurement points with my TEF25, I can confirm the upper octave bass dip is directly due to the inclusion of 2 measurements at the rear with 6-8 total taken (I forget which). The back row has an excess of bass in the low end and a peak up top which you see in the ARC measurement. We did move the subwoofer from between the C & R to under the center which made for much more consistent measurements across each row. The feel good fix would be to not measure the rear row. The mechanical fix is to add another subwoofer at the rear of the room, which currently won't fit.

I had installed a PEQ to provide a much better starting response, which took some significant boosting and cut a big peak on the bottom end. The other benefit was the ability to make a few last tweaks after ARC was done. Accepting the bass difference in the rear row, and not wanting the subs to be anemic in the front row, I measured the results of ARC at the different seats and chose to leave a little excess in the rear rows rather than pulling down the primary listening positions. This way there was main speaker correction that accounted for both front and rear rows and we massaged the subwoofer trade off between the two rows ourselves.

Interesting. Thanks for the explanation.
John
post #32275 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1 View Post

Hi Gerry. Obviously, I'm not Bob; but, I can give you some advice. Overall, your charts look pretty good. I would suggest two things. 1. If your fronts are near a wall, you should try to move them out away from the wall if you can about 2' to start. 2. Your sub looks really good from 20 Hz to 50 Hz; but, after 50 Hz, you have a 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. I would suggest you try playing around with sub positioning to see if you can correct or mostly correct the 10db drop from 50 Hz to 100 Hz. However, keep a sharp eye on 20 Hz to 50 Hz to make sure you don't negatively impact 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Other than that, you should enjoy what you hear. Also, you can give what you have a now a listen first so that you will have a reference, and then begin to make the adjustments if you feel that you need to. After listening to what you have now, you just might enjoy it and decide to stick with it. BTW, out of my two suggestions, I would start with the sub first. I think that needs more attention than your fronts. Also, make sure you disable any crossovers or Low Pass Filters/High Pass Filters in your sub.

I would agree with ninja12 but I guarantee if you fix the 50-100Hz, you will hear a difference.
John

Both of you have done a great job taking over for Bob.
Mark Seaton ran the tests on the sub, then we did the ARC and he readjusted the sub with his software and the hardware addition. So that does not show up on the charts.
I have Thiel 3.7's for my left and right. The room is bad square 18 X 18 with 11 foot screen. Pinball machine to left of left speaker and equipment cabinet to right of right speaker. 4 X 6 foot sound absorbers right next to each speaker. They are about 2 feet from the screen. Cannot move them closer because they will cover the screen. Sounds is amazing. We had Iron man 2 on with the race scene and he had it turned to about -5 and the house moved.
Anything else you can suggest, but very happy.
By the way are you guys using the OPPO and do you intend to buy the 95? If so which processor do you use for video, D2v or 95.
Thanks again to you both.
Gerry

Hard to replace Bob, but we're doing the best we can.
John
post #32276 of 42679
Mark,
It sounds like you are on the right track. It might help to know that the red Measured curve in the ARC charts is an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker.

If you do spot a situation where that seems to be giving incorrect results (doesn't seem to be the case this time), Anthem tech support has a tool they can use to check the recorded response at each mic position -- just email them the ARC results file (NOT the captured chart images).

As best I can tell, the green Calculated curve is simply the result of passing that red Measured curve through the mathematical model of the Room Correction solution the ARC app has built for the processor.

If the measurements for a given speaker at different mic positions are TOO out of whack, ARC will complain at the time of Measurement.

ETA: And for others, remember that you can use Quick Measure to get a feel for the differences the ARC mic is seeing from each speaker at different mic positions. In particular for sub placement, the ideal would be a sub position that produces good response all across your seating area. This is impossible to get perfect of course (that's what ARC is for!), but the closer you can get the better job ARC can do.
--Bob
post #32277 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

Hard to replace Bob, but we're doing the best we can.
John

Aw.

Send in the clones!
--Bob (or is that "clowns"?) P.
post #32278 of 42679
Thanks so much mark for chiming in. I did not want to bother you. Also, you still need to send me the measurements. I am not unhappy to say we are away from Chicago. But, that means I am away from the D2v and the submersive.
Marks Submersive HP is so WOW.
Also, do you think I should send the ARC files to Anthem?
Thanks all and of course Bob....
Gerry
post #32279 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Mark,
It sounds like you are on the right track. It might help to know that the red Measured curve in the ARC charts is an unweighted average of the set of mic positions for each speaker.

If you do spot a situation where that seems to be giving incorrect results (doesn't seem to be the case this time), Anthem tech support has a tool they can use to check the recorded response at each mic position -- just email them the ARC results file (NOT the captured chart images).

As best I can tell, the green Calculated curve is simply the result of passing that red Measured curve through the mathematical model of the Room Correction solution the ARC app has built for the processor.

If the measurements for a given speaker at different mic positions are TOO out of whack, ARC will complain at the time of Measurement.

ETA: And for others, remember that you can use Quick Measure to get a feel for the differences the ARC mic is seeing from each speaker at different mic positions. In particular for sub placement, the ideal would be a sub position that produces good response all across your seating area. This is impossible to get perfect of course (that's what ARC is for!), but the closer you can get the better job ARC can do.
--Bob


Speaking of Quick Measure, I asked this before, upon opening Quick Measure my graph table defaults to -150dbs to something like -80dbs making my graphs nothing like the final graph that ARC creates. Support has told me that I should adjust it myself to read what ARC calculates by I think it's 80dbs to 0dbs but I find this difficult as when I use my laptop to try and change it from -150dbs X -80dbs to 80dbs to 0dbs my hz also change as I try to adjust so instead of the hz going from 20hz to 2000 mine change to sometimes 20hz to 500hz. Is everyone with me? Why wouldn't the graph in Quick Measure read the same as the graph that ARC creates by default, is anyone else having trouble adjusting the Quick Measure graph?

John
post #32280 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by slots1 View Post

Thanks so much mark for chiming in. I did not want to bother you. Also, you still need to send me the measurements. I am not unhappy to say we are away from Chicago. But, that means I am away from the D2v and the submersive.
Marks Submersive HP is so WOW.
Also, do you think I should send the ARC files to Anthem?
Thanks all and of course Bob....
Gerry

I don't think anybody thought your charts were that bad to begin with and we were just suggesting fine tweaks but it would seem that Mark took the measurements and came up with the best compromise. I wouldn't worry about sending in the files, just sit back and enjoy when you get back.
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