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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1080

post #32371 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Thanks, but I'm a little confused.

First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?

As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:

NULL Method:

1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).

2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.

3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.

PEAK Method:

1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.

Same steps 2-3 as above.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.

All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.

The flat setting should NOT have that effect, many use it and no one has reported that. Likely it's something else.
John
post #32372 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Thanks, but I'm a little confused.

First off, I have set the speaker distances (from the main listening position to each speaker) and calibrated their levels to 75db prior to running ARC. Is this still the proper process prior to running ARC?

As far as the SUB, I'm not sure I follow regarding either method:

NULL Method:

1. After, the above calibration process is done, now reverse the polarity of the LF speaker terminals. You can do this directly at the speaker terminals or at the back/rear of your power amplifier (but NOT both).

2. Go to your sub distance setting in the Setup -> Listener Position -> Subwoofer in the setup menu.

3. Play your noise source and measure the SPL reading on your RS meter as you vary the subwoofer distance settings from 0 to max in 0.5 ft increments as you record the SPL reading from the RS meter.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MINIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Remember to reverse the LF speaker terminals (at the speaker itself or the back of the power amp) to their correct polarity.



PEAK Method:

1. Do NOT reverse LF speaker polarity as described above in NULL method.

Same steps 2-3 as above.

4. The distance setting that gives you the MAXIMUM reading is the optimal sub distance. You're done ....

Assuming I choose to follow the peak method, what is step 3 about? Play my noise source .. is this referring to the test tone generated by the D2v and how do I recognize the minimum reading? As well, is my SUB 15 set correctly to even try these steps based on the 3 settings I described earlier? These setting specifically:

On my SUB 15, my subwoofer phase alignment is completely off, my subwoofer cutoff frequency is set to bypass and my subwoffer volume level is hardly turned up (maybe at the 9/10 o'clock position from minimum). Should I adjust any of these? Will getting the PBK kit make a difference as I'm using only ARC 3.01 from my D2v to set this.

Finally, setting the HPF to Flat, recalculating and uploading to my D2v completely killed my SUB sound. It was basically not even evident. I had to go back to HPF at Auto, recalc and upload to the D2v to get sub sound back again.

All this calibration stuff and there is still some very manual stuff that needs to get done outside of ARC and PBK it seems. Thank ALL, for your help and input.

The sources for the test tones i was talking about are external. I downloaded a freebie software audio generator from the net and used it as my source.

My measurement device was my radioshack SPL meter, which most everyone here uses for ARC measurements.

Make sure the phase knob of your sub is set to zero. As far as your sub sounding thin, did you make sure it measured 75dB when all speaker level settings were set to zero, including the subwoofer?
post #32373 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

All true - an external processor is to be used when the projector doesn't have adequate control, for example 10-point gamma correction.

To clarify what recently released CalMAN v4 is about, it's basically a video version of automatic room eq. A measurement instrument with known parameters talks to the PC which inturn talks to the processor to adjust output accordingly. CalMAN always did that except that with v4 it's automated. With previous versions there was a lot of trial and error, like manually adjusting an equalizer and testing again after each manual adjustment, until hitting the bullseye.

Does this mean anything for the end user? Not really, in my opinion, but it's nice for the professional calibrator. If you have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on measurement equipment and a serially-controllable test pattern generator, and the time to take ISF, THX, and/or SMPTE courses then you can become your own pro calibrator but for most people I'd recommend hiring someone to set up the system.

Yes, Nick. I agree and I wrote it before. This is only for amateurs who deal with calibration hence they have the equipment, or the professional calibrator.
For the latter i would recommend one that uses Calman just because of that new feature.
And one more thing. Most of the mainstream projectors today get quickly out of range when you push them out to their limits. For example when trying to get a high amount of light output and at the same time keep a flat grayscale and gamma. This is where the internal D2/D2v VP can help a lot. So I do not agree with the other guy here that said that this not a big deal and that you should calibrate the display only.
post #32374 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrips View Post


Yes, Nick. I agree and I wrote it before. This is only for amateurs who deal with calibration hence they have the equipment, or the professional calibrator.
For the latter i would recommend one that uses Calman just because of that new feature.
And one more thing. Most of the mainstream projectors today get quickly out of range when you push them out to their limits. For example when trying to get a high amount of light output and at the same time keep a flat grayscale and gamma. This is where the internal D2/D2v VP can help a lot. So I do not agree with the other guy here that said that this not a big deal and that you should calibrate the display only.

He was referring specifically to my setup, which does not experience this drifting.
John
post #32375 of 42673
I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or tech@anthemav.com. I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?

Update: I can access tech@anthemav.com but why can't I reach tech.anthemav.com?
post #32376 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or tech@anthemav.com. I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?

I just tried the first one and I logged in without any problem. Just go to anthemav.com and get the files there.
John
post #32377 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

I recently bought a new computer and I'm putting in my old web addresses but for some reason I can't get to either tech.anthemav.com or tech@anthemav.com. I prefer the 1st address so I can access those files if I need to. Anyone know why I can't contact either address?

Update: I can access tech@anthemav.com but why can't I reach tech.anthemav.com?

The second one is an email address.
John
post #32378 of 42673
John,
Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.
post #32379 of 42673
http://tech.anthemav.com/ worked for me today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

John,
Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.
post #32380 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

http://tech.anthemav.com/ worked for me today!

Worked for me too. On a side note, just watched AVP Requiem and wow the sub 25 was rocking someone on the MRX thread said they tested it but it didn't knock their socks off. There socks must be too tight
John
post #32381 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

John,
Yeah, I figured that out but why can't I access tech.anthemav.com? I have in the past with the 2 passwords but now it doesn't come up.

WORKS for me - JUST NOW
post #32382 of 42673
I got it to work. It's probably because I didn't type http: and the slashes. Thanks for the help. I think I need a break from the new computer. I've been entering to much stuff from the old computer.
post #32383 of 42673
Must have had thier socks super glued on, cuase this sub will knock them off!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

just watched AVP Requiem and wow the sub 25 was rocking someone on the MRX thread said they tested it but it didn't knock their socks off. There socks must be too tight
John
post #32384 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

Must have had thier socks super glued on, cuase this sub will knock them off!

Oh goodie, cause I just ordered 2 of them.
post #32385 of 42673
Can any of the experts on here tell me how to rollback to the original software version my D2V came with?

My D2V came with v2.04 installed. I just installed v2.10 and have multiple issues that I did not have prior to the upgrade. Namely a very loud noise floor, flickering and clicking noises that can be heard while adjusting EQ & other settings which were not previously experienced and the worst one - my SUB2's are being completely robbed of low end output.

And just an FYI - no settings were tweaked before the update, so its not a case of going in and RE-EQing everything back to the way I had it because I was playing it stock right out the box. Just bass and treble adjustments were made and those same adjustments have been made again.

PS. Dolby volume is definitely screwing it up, because when I turn it off, the overall sound gets much closer to how it sounded before but not quite and the bass is still lacking.

Because of this, I think the update is the culprit.

Thanks for any help on how to do a rollback.

AE
post #32386 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by astral_essence View Post

Can any of the experts on here tell me how to rollback to the original software version my D2V came with?

My D2V came with v2.04 installed. I just installed v2.10 and have multiple issues that I did not have prior to the upgrade. Namely a very loud noise floor, flickering and clicking noises that can be heard while adjusting EQ & other settings which were not previously experienced and the worst one - my SUB2's are being completely robbed of low end output.

And just an FYI - no settings were tweaked before the update, so its not a case of going in and RE-EQing everything back to the way I had it because I was playing it stock right out the box. Just bass and treble adjustments were made and those same adjustments have been made again.

PS. Dolby volume is definitely screwing it up, because when I turn it off, the overall sound gets much closer to how it sounded before but not quite and the bass is still lacking.

Because of this, I think the update is the culprit.

Thanks for any help on how to do a rollback.

AE

Have you reinstalled the latest firmware? Perhaps you should download a fresh copy of the firmware and reinstall it. Maybe it was corrupted. This the easy solution first. Then reupload your ARC file.
John
post #32387 of 42673
I would rather have the version that came with the D2V that I had no issues with.
post #32388 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post


The sources for the test tones i was talking about are external. I downloaded a freebie software audio generator from the net and used it as my source.

My measurement device was my radioshack SPL meter, which most everyone here uses for ARC measurements.

Make sure the phase knob of your sub is set to zero. As far as your sub sounding thin, did you make sure it measured 75dB when all speaker level settings were set to zero, including the subwoofer?

Where did you get the test tones to do this? At what frequency should the tones be at? Thanks
post #32389 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by astral_essence View Post

I would rather have the version that came with the D2V that I had no issues with.

It may have nothing to do with the version you had, if there was a corruption with the latest firmware install. You wouldn't be the first to experience this. If it doesn't work, then ask Anthem for the original file, all you have to lose is a little time.
John
post #32390 of 42673
There must be a number of people on here who use the Roku player with their Anthem. Does anyone want to share the settings they are using? Mine seems to be having HDMI handshake issues. At least half the time when I turn my system on to use the Roku, I end up with a black screen that only goes away if I physically unplug the Roku and restart the Anthem.

Thanks!
post #32391 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

It may have nothing to do with the version you had, if there was a corruption with the latest firmware install. You wouldn't be the first to experience this. If it doesn't work, then ask Anthem for the original file, all you have to lose is a little time.
John

Thanks for the response John. I will try a fresh download and update tomorrow and see if that cures the problems. On a side note - with this new version, I don't like the fact that I constantly have to switch the Dolby Volume off everytime I turn ON the processor or even change sources. I would think it would just stay on the last setting it was on.

AE
post #32392 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by astral_essence View Post


Thanks for the response John. I will try a fresh download and update tomorrow and see if that cures the problems. On a side note - with this new version, I don't like the fact that I constantly have to switch the Dolby Volume off everytime I turn ON the processor or even change sources. I would think it would just stay on the last setting it was on.

AE

I turned it off and it stays off using 2.10 firmware.
John
post #32393 of 42673
i just remeasured "the room", and for the first time ever, i had NO gain.
This, after adding some pink stuff to the front wall floor - also moved other existing rigid f/g, but that should have no impact.
the question is, what do i lose from the lack of gain? I manually changed it to +1.5, but only 'cause i seem to remember folks saying there should always be some gain in the room.
my charts were smooth and uneventful, though they drop off at 10kHz by a full 10 db - but i cannot hear up there anyway.
as others note from time to time, we are unable to achieve the ref 75dB w/o boosting the ref noise level to 8 or 9, which anthem says not to do. i am one of those folks.
but, the question is, what would i lose if i left the room at "0" gain.
thx
walt
post #32394 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by yacht422
i just remeasured "the room", and for the first time ever, i had NO gain.
This, after adding some pink stuff to the front wall floor - also moved other existing rigid f/g, but that should have no impact.
the question is, what do i lose from the lack of gain? I manually changed it to +1.5, but only 'cause i seem to remember folks saying there should always be some gain in the room.
my charts were smooth and uneventful, though they drop off at 10kHz by a full 10 db - but i cannot hear up there anyway.
as others note from time to time, we are unable to achieve the ref 75dB w/o boosting the ref noise level to 8 or 9, which anthem says not to do. i am one of those folks.
but, the question is, what would i lose if i left the room at "0" gain.
thx
walt
Bob has often suggested around 2 for people who have 0 as their default. Try that and listen. For music try that or a little lower since music engineers don't build in room gain when recording whereas movies are produced with room gain in mind.
John
post #32395 of 42673
Can someone summarize the correct sequence of events to get ARC running at it's optimal. I assume it's as follows:

1) D2v set to it's factory defaults
2) Set speaker distances by manually measuring the distance of each speaker and sub from the maing listening position. Enter these dinstances for each speaker on the D2v.
3) Calibrate each speaker to 75db running the D2v sweep test tone using the Radio Shack SPL.
4) Run ARC.

Is this the sequence you're all running?
post #32396 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Can someone summarize the correct sequence of events to get ARC running at it's optimal. I assume it's as follows:

1) D2v set to it's factory defaults
2) Set speaker distances by manually measuring the distance of each speaker and sub from the maing listening position. Enter these dinstances for each speaker on the D2v.
3) Calibrate each speaker to 75db running the D2v sweep test tone using the Radio Shack SPL.
4) Run ARC.

Is this the sequence you're all running?

1. No need to set factory defaults. This only happens when doing firmware. You can save User Settings just as a safety measure.
2. Set speaker distances.
3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub. other speakers should be zeroed out.
4. Run ARC

John
post #32397 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

1. No need to set factory defaults. This only happens when doing firmware. You can save User Settings just as a safety measure.
2. Set speaker distances.
3. Set test level to 75 dB and sub to 75 dB using the volume knob on the back of the sub. other speakers should be zeroed out.
4. Run ARC

John

setting test to 75 db - ok
but, setting the sub to 75 db using the knob on the rear is not something i've read before.
is this a new proceedure for the sub?
walt
post #32398 of 42673
I had everything disconnected on my D2V today as I was moving it to a new shelf. After reconnecting everything I am not getting any OSD (volume level, status etc.) My projector is on HDMI output 1 and my TV is connected to HDMI 2 (which is showing the OSD)
I have reloaded user settings, reloaded factory settings and back to user settings and still nothing. Has anyone else experienced this?
post #32399 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by yacht422 View Post

setting test to 75 db - ok
but, setting the sub to 75 db using the knob on the rear is not something i've read before.
is this a new proceedure for the sub?
walt

Not new. Always the recommended procedure.
post #32400 of 42673
Quote:
Originally Posted by smkss View Post

I had everything disconnected on my D2V today as I was moving it to a new shelf. After reconnecting everything I am not getting any OSD (volume level, status etc.) My projector is on HDMI output 1 and my TV is connected to HDMI 2 (which is showing the OSD)
I have reloaded user settings, reloaded factory settings and back to user settings and still nothing. Has anyone else experienced this?

Are you sure you didn't swap the outputs? I thought OSD was only on HDMI 1 and not on HDMI 2
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