Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1131

A friend just gave me a DAC phono amp. So I got my old (30 plus years) Rega turntable down from the shelf. Contected it the DAC and then to the tape input of the D2v. Even when the needle is not in the grove their is a surface or hiss noise. The sound is just fair. What should all the settings be and what am I doing incorrect.

I've had an annoying problem while running ARC in that communication between my laptop (plugged in rather than on battery) and the D2V stops at various points during the process. I've had it happen during the test-tone phase and during the upload phase. Sometimes it just hangs; sometimes I get a message saying no processor is attached. I can solve the problem by plugging the Keyspan adapter into a different USB port. I have checked the settings on the computer for the Keyspan adapter and they are correct and checked the various connections and they are all tight. I'm running Windows 7 and have the latest software from Keyspan. Eventually everything uploads properly but tis annoying.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? I see tngiloy mentions turning off the firewall, so I will try that next time. Any other suggested solutions?

The description DAC phono amp sounds incorrect. An analog turntable does not need conversion from digital to analog.
Only a phono amp which is analog from the turntable to the D2v 2 channel analog input.

Assuming your use of 'DAC' is incorrect, and you are actually using a phono preamp, then there could be a few things causing the noise:

Many phono preamps have a switch that lets you choose MM(moving magnet) or MC(moving coil) depending on which type of cartridge you are using. Check to make sure you have chosen the correct one or if you don't know, try switching it and see if it makes a difference.

Some turntables have a ground wire that needs to be attached to a ground.
Check your Rega manual.

Some phono preamps have a dedicated ground. Check your manual.

Its also possible that there is some kind of ground loop problem. These are sometimes hard to find without a lot of troubleshooting, but cable/satellite boxes and the associated coax antenna cables are the common culprits.

It could be hum from a rheostat on a light dimmer. If you have a light dimmer switch,turn it off and see if that makes any difference.

Good luck,

Tom

Edit: Also check in the D2v setup menu under 'ANALOG INPUT LEVELS' and set the phono's input to the proper level.
Its possible that its too high and needs to be toned down.

TNG

Thank you so much. The brand is a DAC phono preamp.
I will try the things you suggested.
Does the tape input have to be set up in any special way. What are the settings.
Gerry

Gerry

Is this a DAK brand phono preamp rather than DAC?

And is it a USB output or analog output /

Why the question about tape input setup ?

Like thestewman, I was unable to google a DAC phono preamp. I did find a DAK that can be used as a preamp connected to your D2v, or to send it to a computer to burn to disc or a hard drive.

Basically the connections are simple.

The R/L connectors from your turntable connect to the 'phono in' on the preamp.
You may have the choice of a MM or MC connection or just a toggle switch.
Connect the phono ground if necessary.

The pre-out goes to the D2v with a pair of RCA cables. If your phono pre-amp has balanced (XLR) connections you have the option of using the '2 CH BALANCED' Anthem input. Otherwise you can use 'Tape' ,'Aux' or any other unused analog in connection.

The setup is pretty straight forward in the Anthem.
You have the choice in the SOURCE SETUP to choose if you want to use ANALOG or ANALOG DSP.
ANALOG will just send the info to your R/L fronts. The D2v will just control the volume.
ANALOG DSP will allow you to use ARC, and the associated bass management, and to choose options like AntemMusic or DTS music settings in the MODE PRESET area of setup. Even if you choose STEREO it will use your sub and room correction if you use ANALOG DSP and turn on ROOM CORRECTION in the SOURCE SETUP.

You will then want to go to the ANALOG INPUT SETTING area and adjust the level so that you are in PINK. Refer to the manual for better instructions.
This is an important step--don't skip it.

Tom

Yes it is the DAK brand.. I do not think it has moving magnet and moving coil switch. I will check on Tuesday

Thank you
gerry

thestewman
aminor oversight....both have ARC
tjg

Attached is the full list of differences.

 

avm50_ComparisonChart.pdf 37.474609375k . file

I have the Anthem D2v and Oppo BDP-93. When I play SD DVDs on the Oppo the video appears to be lagging the audio. The picture is very fake looking. Blu-ray disks play fine. I have the latest FW on both units and I’m using Bob’s last recommended settings, at least I think I am.

Does anyone else find SD DVD unwatchable or is it just me with a bad setup? Any recommended settings for SD DVD?

Thanks…

In a comparison to a new MRX when used as a PrePro, how do earlier generations of the AVM50 with ARC and D2 with ARC compare (other than cost)? What will I gain and loose with the MRX vs the AVM50 or D2?

Chucka

how does this look. ?
i now i have to play around the room gain.
I have replaced my motorized screen( hanging about 1.5 feed from wall ) an now using a screen wall. after i have done that, the subs has dropped from 120hz to 90hz - roomgain from 1.6 to 0.0000.
shout i rase the sub to 120 again? ore...???

any comments?

Facke02,

Make sure you have a video profile setup for DVD i.e. 1080i at 60 frames per second. I had similar issues as my AVM50v was converting the DVD to 24p and the projector was displaying at 24 not 60. This will fix the stuttering and may fix the lipsyn issues as well.

my set up is:
video 1: BD at 24p
video 2: HD at 24p
Video 3: DVD at 60p

Also make sure you do not have your Oppo forcing 24p output as well.

Hope that helps.

But do make sure it is forcing YCbCr 4:2:2 output and not RGB or 4:4:4 or AUTO.

You can try the same room gain from before and bump up the cutoff to 120. I'd be interested in seeing what that does to the sub curve. I thought from your red measured curve, that the corrected would be higher at 100 Hz.
John

AVfile,

Why would you not leave the gamut in auto?
I understand why not 4:4:4
Why not RGB?

What does everyone keep their Anthem gamut in? RGB, Studio RGB, etc???

Studio RGB.
John

There is no pat answer which will work best as processing variations in sources and displays, not to mention outright bugs, will affect the answer. Simply put, you should try the different format settings and see if you can find a combo that looks "best" to you.
--Bob

RT:

The answer to this depends primarily on your display. You already have the Oppo and its been tested to be spot-on accurate in both RGB or 4:x:x modes. What color mode does your display prefer or produce the most accurate picture? Only your display mfgr can answer that. If its accurate in both modes, i'd set it to 4:4:4 in the whole video chain, the Oppo, AVP/AVR and TV display.

My display is the Pioneer Elite Kuto and its most accurate in RGB mode so that why i set the whole video display chain in RGB mode. I would make sure my display has been calibrated professionally by an ISF certified technician.

I'd also set the subwoofer HPF setting from auto to flat as well.

Thanks David, I'll give this try...

Ken

I've been thru this with tech support, claiming there is a bug in the Anthem based on my tests, and made the recommendation here for everyone to use 4:2:2 in the BD player. Otherwise I get a blank screen and no audio when playing SD on my Sony BDP 770. You may not have the same symptoms but it is worth trying, and in theory is the best setting for the player.

Auto in the player should work but it does not (same result as manual RGB or 4:4:4). There is no benefit to outputting DVD or BD at anything other than 4:2:2 and in my case only works about 20% of the time with DVD (fine with other media).

As for the Anthem I can use any setting my display is happy with, but matching the source format and depth speeds up the handshake slightly and ensures the extra processing is minimized.

You are correct in talking about fine tuning the image for the display, however, regardless of the display I'm talking about maximizing compatibility between the source and Anthem to address the original poster's concern.

okay.
i am afraid that my subs is pushed over the limit. i have two M&K mx350. what do you think?

Thanks for the answers guys. I will try some different settings.

My projector has the 10bit version of the video chip in the AVM50v so they should be able to do very similar things. I had been using RGB and or Studio RGB with auto or 4:2:2 on the Oppo.

Why do you think they are over their limit? The sub curve now looks very good. Use some test material with very low LFE and see how that sounds or feels
John

I have made som test.

Witt the flat response , i feel like i missing som energy in the very importen area 60-80hz.
Maby ill try to rase the gain to 4 dB.
There is no doubt that my bas's is more tight, after i replaced my subs, becurse of the fast frame screen. I have moved the subs about 10 cm from the front wall.So maby i Can go higher on the room gain, than it was before?

Based on your chart you shouldn't be missing anything. Maybe you should listen to it for a while. I wouldn't raise the room gain too much from what ARC set.
John

Arc had set it to 0,0000000.
Ay the moment i am using room gain 3.7