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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1181

post #35401 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I'm not sure the current ARC application software enforces the need for the ARC license file for the AVM 50v since, as you say, all such units are licensed for ARC.

Although mics are no longer constrained to one AVM/D, both files are still needed to run the program (and in contrast the MRX-bundled kits use only the mic number in the file name). The important thing is to have the mic match the second half of the serial number in the file name. The first part, which is the AVM/D serial number, no longer matters.

Tech support can look things up given either the AVM/D or the mic serial number and tie the two but since the AVM/D number is the first part, it's a bit easier to look it up when the file names are arranged alphanumerically.
post #35402 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffDaniel View Post

My D2 is an older unit and has the old power supply that gets really hot so I guess that could be getting unhappy too.

Standard opening question when diagnosing hum/buzz/hiss/snap/crackle/pop etc:

From how far is it audible?

In general, if not audible from the listening position it's not considered problematic. If it can be heard from the listening area more questions usually follow.

All D2s use a switching power supply for the video processing section. In later production the entire unit was fed by a switching supply (still the case for D2v and 50v) whereas in the older warmer D2s the audio section was fed by a linear supply, same as the one in the D1.

The part of the supply that feeds the video processor - any model - generates noise for which level varies according to what the video processor is doing. This is normal even for plasma TVs - just put your ear near the vent holes at the back while it's displaying something and then change its input. It normally can't be heard from more than around 3-4 feet away.
post #35403 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

you know what i just realized? the whole process of the dealer /installer using ARC the other day was worthless since we were going 6 channel ( before he switched apparently to coax digital audio to eliminate the hissing) - am i correct on this?

As others mentioned there's hardly a reason to connect analog audio for the main zone when the player can send multichannel PCM to the prepro. The 6-ch input exists only for legacy DVD-A/SACD players which have no other way of putting out multichannel audio.
post #35404 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin@! View Post

When the Oppo change picture resolution it takes 1 or 2 minutes that i see a normal picture on screen.

...

Is it better to set the anthem on "auto" or set on "1920x1080P-50hz or 60hz" ?

Auto settings for HDMI in menu 1 are best avoided to make handshakes quicker and more reliable - use forced settings where possible. For Data there is hardly ever a good technical reason to use 12 bits though if the TV/projector tells the AVM 50v or D2v that it handles 12-bit video, the AVM/D will try to send that when in Auto mode. To start, try the 10-bit setting, and Studio RGB for the format.

HDMI lock should never take more than a few seconds - it's usually around four to six, more when repeaters or matrix switches are involved (every HDMI stage adds around two seconds).

If you haven't done so I'd recommend contacting tech support because things like this are very system-dependent.
post #35405 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You've mentioned this "hissing" noise a few times. Is that a general, low level of hiss underneath the audio you are actually playing or are you referring to a total loss of audio so that *ALL* you hear is hiss?

If the first, then hiss added to audio is often a symptom of "radio frequency interference". One common culprit for this is room light dimmers, possibly even in another room. See the Hum/Hiss FAQ sticky thread at the top of the Audio Theory forum here.

If you are talking about total loss of audio (just hiss), then that's something else, and we'd need more details about what you were trying to do when it happened.
--Bob

Morning Bob- Presently it is more of popping noise actually-let me backup a second- when we initially had the hdmi connection from the blu ray to the anthem i heard random loud hissing noises emanating from all of the speakers which sounded like the sound checks from the speakers when you run ARC if i recall correctly.....it was really loud and went from speaker to speaker-we also got a sort of a popping noise when i went from blu ray to cable or visa versa and when the system was shut off you would hear a pop....... this is what caused the dealer to go to the 6 channel...he thought it was an anthem/hdmi issue--recently up until he changed the setup from 6 channel to digital coax we heard a popping noise coming from i believe the center channel and /or a rear channel when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa and when the unit was shut off..this is what caused him to go to digital coax ( without telling me ) - this did eliminate the popping noises completely...
thanks Arthur
post #35406 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

As others mentioned there's hardly a reason to connect analog audio for the main zone when the player can send multichannel PCM to the prepro. The 6-ch input exists only for legacy DVD-A/SACD players which have no other way of putting out multichannel audio.

Nick- the dealer utilized the 6 channel because of issues we were having with hdmi- and he told me that because the pioneer( bd-09) has such good processing (?) whereby we were bypassing the anthem av40 that the 6 channel set up is superior to hdmi- but because of popping noises he switched it to coax digital...

Also- i read in the manual that the MIC placement is critical in getting good results from ARC- is that accurate? that the first MIC placement should be done in front of the main listening area first? because the first Mic placement was done close to the front speakers at the end of a L couch i have... thanks Arthur
post #35407 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

Standard opening question when diagnosing hum/buzz/hiss/snap/crackle/pop etc:

From how far is it audible?

In general, if not audible from the listening position it's not considered problematic. If it can be heard from the listening area more questions usually follow.

All D2s use a switching power supply for the video processing section. In later production the entire unit was fed by a switching supply (still the case for D2v and 50v) whereas in the older warmer D2s the audio section was fed by a linear supply, same as the one in the D1.

The part of the supply that feeds the video processor - any model - generates noise for which level varies according to what the video processor is doing. This is normal even for plasma TVs - just put your ear near the vent holes at the back while it's displaying something and then change its input. It normally can't be heard from more than around 3-4 feet away.

Thank you Nick. Yes you can hear it from the seating position, rather loud. Seating is ~7-8 feet away. It is a new thing as I have never heard this type of noise before. I need to do some further debug following suggestions from Bob to determine exactly the issue.

I'm hoping it's minor I'd be lost if I had to send my D2 in for service.
post #35408 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Also- i read in the manual that the MIC placement is critical in getting good results from ARC- is that accurate? that the first MIC placement should be done in front of the main listening area first? because the first Mic placement was done close to the front speakers at the end of a L couch i have... thanks Arthur

I'm not Nick; but, yes, MIC placement is critical. The first position should be at you main listening position, and the mic should be placed at ear level, and the mic should be pointing up towards the ceiling. Then you should move the mic to the next listening position. Keep in mind that you should have at least 2' of space between the last measured position and the next measured position. Also, if you can, try not to be in the room when the sweeps are taking place. If you can't avoid that, then just make sure you are not between the mic and any of the speakers when the sweeps are taking place. When you are doing the measurements, make sure the room is quiet which means turn off the furnace, radio, or anything that will make noise.
post #35409 of 40739
I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.

I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.
post #35410 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Morning Bob- Presently it is more of popping noise actually-let me backup a second- when we initially had the hdmi connection from the blu ray to the anthem i heard random loud hissing noises emanating from all of the speakers which sounded like the sound checks from the speakers when you run ARC if i recall correctly.....it was really loud and went from speaker to speaker-we also got a sort of a popping noise when i went from blu ray to cable or visa versa and when the system was shut off you would hear a pop....... this is what caused the dealer to go to the 6 channel...he thought it was an anthem/hdmi issue--recently up until he changed the setup from 6 channel to digital coax we heard a popping noise coming from i believe the center channel and /or a rear channel when we switched from cable to blu ray or visa versa and when the unit was shut off..this is what caused him to go to digital coax ( without telling me ) - this did eliminate the popping noises completely...
thanks Arthur

Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.

The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".

HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.

As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.

HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.

Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.

Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.
--Bob
post #35411 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.

The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".

HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.

As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.

HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.

Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.

Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.
--Bob

Arthur

Another suggestion when the dealer returns, do not let him talk you into replacing the HDMI cables with expensive $$$ HDMI Cables. Us either of the two vendors on the AVS forum at the top of every page. Either Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cables. Blue Jean cables are 100% American Made not just assembled from Chinese products.
post #35412 of 40739
^ What he said.

When you check out the Blue Jeans web page you'll see that they have two different "best" HDMI cables -- both reasonably priced. The difference is that one of them is designed for longer length cable runs.
--Bob
post #35413 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.

I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.

The first mic position is definitely the most important one, as that's the one used to set speaker volume trims. It should be set at the center of your primary seating, with the mic tip at seated ear height and with the mic pointed straight up.

A "boom arm" mic stand makes it easy to extend the mic over seat cushions or from behind, over a seat back to get it to your head position. You can get a complete, light weight boom arm mic stand for about $30, shipped, or just the boom arm itself to put on the top of the Anthem-supplied, straight pole stand. Simply unscrew the mic clip from the Anthem stand and screw it on to the end of the boom arm. Here's a complete stand I like:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Mic_Stand.html

Keep the mic tip away from reflective or blocking surfaces. E.g., if you have high seat backs raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back. Try to keep the mic tip a good foot or more away from walls. 18 inches is better. This can be a bit tough if your seating is flush to a back wall.

Subsequent mic positions have the mic set the same way for height and pointing. They must alternate either side of #1 and no two mic positions (whether or not sequential) should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I like to use 30 inches.

It is a good idea to have some forward/backward shift in the positions as well as side to side. So if you were measuring for typical sofa seating, rather than run 5 positions all along the seat back of the sofa, swing the outer two positions in closer to the screen by about the width of the sofa cushion. Typically that will put the outer two positions outside the sofa arms and roughly aligned with the front of the sofa cushion.

Note that you are NOT trying to get a mic position at each sitter's head position The idea is to sample the range of the listening area, but within the rules above.

Choose your mic positions with the aid of a steel tape measure. It helps to mark each position with a piece of painter's masking tape (the type that leaves no residue behind) placed on the furniture below where you want the mic to be. That makes it easier to repeat the positions. Jot down some notes about HOW you arranged the mic positions so that it is easy to do it again the next time you try -- which makes it easier to compare results.
--Bob
post #35414 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

I'm not Nick; but, yes, MIC placement is critical. The first position should be at you main listening position, and the mic should be placed at ear level, and the mic should be pointing up towards the ceiling. Then you should move the mic to the next listening position. Keep in mind that you should have at least 2' of space between the last measured position and the next measured position. Also, if you can, try not to be in the room when the sweeps are taking place. If you can't avoid that, then just make sure you are not between the mic and any of the speakers when the sweeps are taking place. When you are doing the measurements, make sure the room is quiet which means turn off the furnace, radio, or anything that will make noise.

Thanks...i have relayed some of this info to the dealer and i am sure he is not happy ( with me trying to tell him how to do his job ) but he is coming back next week to hook up the hdmi and hopefully to run ARC again
post #35415 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The first mic position is definitely the most important one, as that's the one used to set speaker volume trims. It should be set at the center of your primary seating, with the mic tip at seated ear height and with the mic pointed straight up.

A "boom arm" mic stand makes it easy to extend the mic over seat cushions or from behind, over a seat back to get it to your head position. You can get a complete, light weight boom arm mic stand for about $30, shipped, or just the boom arm itself to put on the top of the Anthem-supplied, straight pole stand. Simply unscrew the mic clip from the Anthem stand and screw it on to the end of the boom arm. Here's a complete stand I like:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Mic_Stand.html

Keep the mic tip away from reflective or blocking surfaces. E.g., if you have high seat backs raise the mic tip a few inches to clear the seat back or move the mic about a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back. Try to keep the mic tip a good foot or more away from walls. 18 inches is better. This can be a bit tough if your seating is flush to a back wall.

Subsequent mic positions have the mic set the same way for height and pointing. They must alternate either side of #1 and no two mic positions (whether or not sequential) should be closer than 24 inches apart -- I like to use 30 inches.

It is a good idea to have some forward/backward shift in the positions as well as side to side. So if you were measuring for typical sofa seating, rather than run 5 positions all along the seat back of the sofa, swing the outer two positions in closer to the screen by about the width of the sofa cushion. Typically that will put the outer two positions outside the sofa arms and roughly aligned with the front of the sofa cushion.

Note that you are NOT trying to get a mic position at each sitter's head position The idea is to sample the range of the listening area, but within the rules above.

Choose your mic positions with the aid of a steel tape measure. It helps to mark each position with a piece of painter's masking tape (the type that leaves no residue behind) placed on the furniture below where you want the mic to be. That makes it easier to repeat the positions. Jot down some notes about HOW you arranged the mic positions so that it is easy to do it again the next time you try -- which makes it easier to compare results.
--Bob

Thanks Bob- there is some great info in there and i have borrowed some of it and relayed it to the dealer and i guess we will see what his reaction is...if he doesn't re do the ARC then i will do as you outlined above.....thanks so much

Arthur
post #35416 of 40739
Just adding on to what Bob said I've had good luck using a 5 position X configuration with the center of the X being my 1st position.
post #35417 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Arthur

Another suggestion when the dealer returns, do not let him talk you into replacing the HDMI cables with expensive $$$ HDMI Cables. Us either of the two vendors on the AVS forum at the top of every page. Either Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cables. Blue Jean cables are 100% American Made not just assembled from Chinese products.

he sold me the hdmi cables i have now but it wouldn't surprise me if he told me i need better ones now.. :-) thanks for the info... Arthur
post #35418 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Well that's not radio frequency interference. It is an HDMI problem.

The first things to do when you have an HDMI handshaking problem is to check the HDMI cables and check the settings in the Source and the Anthem to simplify the handshake -- i.e., use explicit settings instead of "Auto".

HDMI is an end to end protocol so the cables on either side of the AVM 40 could be the problem even though you are not sending audio out to the display.

As I understand it you have the AVM 40 in a different room from the Blu-ray player and the display, so you may be using longish HDMI cables. If so, those cables may not be up to handling 1080p video signals. Your cable TV box will only send 1080i signals (half the bandwidth) which put less demand on the cables.

HDMI plugs are only friction fit, and it only takes a small shift of the plug in the socket to screw up the connection -- perhaps even from just the weight of the cable. So make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end, without being tugged in any direction.

Settings in the player which cause it to have to figure out every time whether to send LPCM or Bitstream audio over the HDMI cable could be another source of the problem as the player might get confused. The HDMI handshake (connection setup) is driven by the Source device. So tell the player you want HDMI LPCM output rather than letting it figure that out on its own. Also check to see if there is a firmware update for the player.

Try 480p (not 480i) and then 1080i video output from the player. If those work without problems but 1080p output has problems then that's pretty strong evidence that your HDMI cables are not up to the challenge.
--Bob

You are absolutely correct- the hdmi cables are very long going from the basement through the ceiling and up to the blu ray...i will check to see if everything is in accordance with what you describe above once the hdmi cables are back in place...by the way we did the firmware update for the blu ray and although there are some updates for the anthem avm 40 the dealer guy said they were not important and didn't update it...


Thanks Arthur
post #35419 of 40739
Ok,

After a couple of months of waiting for my AVM50v it is finally here. I first posted to get help with some issues on the video for which they went back to Anthem and the video is now great. Since I never had a chase to really play with it, I am having some newbie issues . So here's where I need help:

1.) I connected my Oppo (configured for 5.1) via hdmi to the 50v, but the audio comes out as a 2 channel mix. I can see the oppo menu fine and the music is great, but is comes as a 2 channel. When I press Mode it says "6 channel input dolby d". I know the oppo is configured correctly as I have been using in it in this 5.1 mode for some time.

2) I have the same 2 channel issue when connecting to my TV. Great picture and sound, but the output of the 50V seems to be set to stereo... When I press mode: "mode for 2 ch input anthem-logic cinema".

Sorry if this is such a trivial question, but I have been struggling with it for hours...

Thanks!

NYC Jazz
post #35420 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycjazz View Post

Ok,

After a couple of months of waiting for my AVM50v it is finally here. I first posted to get help with some issues on the video for which they went back to Anthem and the video is now great. Since I never had a chase to really play with it, I am having some newbie issues . So here's where I need help:

1.) I connected my Oppo (configured for 5.1) via hdmi to the 50v, but the audio comes out as a 2 channel mix. I can see the oppo menu fine and the music is great, but is comes as a 2 channel. When I press Mode it says "6 channel input dolby d". I know the oppo is configured correctly as I have been using in it in this 5.1 mode for some time.

2) I have the same 2 channel issue when connecting to my TV. Great picture and sound, but the output of the 50V seems to be set to stereo... When I press mode: "mode for 2 ch input anthem-logic cinema".

Sorry if this is such a trivial question, but I have been struggling with it for hours...

Thanks!

NYC Jazz

Sorry, forgot to add, that both inputs into the 50v are via HDMI as are the outputs into my av receiver (set to Direct mode, so it should get the raw decoded signal from the 50V)
post #35421 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycjazz View Post

Sorry, forgot to add, that both inputs into the 50v are via HDMI as are the outputs into my av receiver (set to Direct mode, so it should get the raw decoded signal from the 50V)

Urh, why are you running the output from the AVM 50v through *ANOTHER* AV Receiver?

The HDMI output of the AVM 50v does indeed carry audio, but it is only a stereo down mix (2.0 LPCM). It is intended for people who directly connect to an HDMI TV and want to use the internal stereo speakers built into their TV.

The idea of having an AVM 50v is so that the AVM 50v will handle your audio. The multi-channel audio output of the AVM 50v is "line level" ANALOG audio -- intended to go to your power amp for your speakers (except for the subwoofer output that gets wired directly to the line-level input on your sub, which typically has its own, built in power amp).

If you are using your other receiver as a power amp then you want to connect the RCA jack main audio outputs (up to 8 cables) to the multi-channel analog inputs of your receiver.

I think you need to spend some quality time with the Connections descriptions and sample wiring diagrams in the AVM 50v manual.
--Bob
post #35422 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

You are absolutely correct- the hdmi cables are very long going from the basement through the ceiling and up to the blu ray...i will check to see if everything is in accordance with what you describe above once the hdmi cables are back in place...by the way we did the firmware update for the blu ray and although there are some updates for the anthem avm 40 the dealer guy said they were not important and didn't update it...


Thanks Arthur

Well long HDMI cables can definitely be a source of problems with 1080p video (and the audio signal embedded in it).

As I mentioned earlier, the correct firmware for your AVM 40 is V1.33. Press Select once on the AVM 40 remote and the firmware version will display in the Front Panel display.
--Bob
post #35423 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Urh, why are you running the output from the AVM 50v through *ANOTHER* AV Receiver?

The HDMI output of the AVM 50v does indeed carry audio, but it is only a stereo down mix (2.0 LPCM). It is intended for people who directly connect to an HDMI TV and want to use the internal stereo speakers built into their TV.

The idea of having an AVM 50v is so that the AVM 50v will handle your audio. The multi-channel audio output of the AVM 50v is "line level" ANALOG audio -- intended to go to your power amp for your speakers (except for the subwoofer output that gets wired directly to the line-level input on your sub, which typically has its own, built in power amp).

If you are using your other receiver as a power amp then you want to connect the RCA jack main audio outputs (up to 8 cables) to the multi-channel analog inputs of your receiver.

I think you need to spend some quality time with the Connections description and sample diagrams in the AVM 50v manual.
--Bob

Thanks Bob! Yes, I am using the AV receiver as a power amp while I save for my dedicated amp .

I will connect the analogue outputs of the 50v to my AV amp. In this kind of set up, should I wait until I get my dedicated amp to run ARC?

Thanks again. I have been a strict 2 channel guy for 25 years listening mostly to vinyl. My transition to multichannel has been a bit scary. Thanks for the support!!!!!!
post #35424 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycjazz View Post

Thanks Bob! Yes, I am using the AV receiver as a power amp while I save for my dedicated amp .

I will connect the analogue outputs of the 50v to my AV amp. In this kind of set up, should I wait until I get my dedicated amp to run ARC?

Thanks again. I have been a strict 2 channel guy for 25 years listening mostly to vinyl. My transition to multichannel has been a bit scary. Thanks for the support!!!!!!

There's no need to wait to run ARC, however you should plan on redoing your ARC setup once your "real" power amp arrives.
--Bob
post #35425 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

I believe ARC uses the first mic position for the speaker volume level trims so yes it is important.

I don't think being in the room while measurements happen is a problem. After all you are in the room when you are listening so if your presence affects ARC measurement in any way then it should be there when you are listening too.

Being in the room while measurements happen may or may not be a problem. Remember, ARC is trying to correct for problems with the room. If you are in the room and possibly standing in a reflection point, then that may cause ARC to not apply corrections. I don't think highs will reflect off of a body; but, it will reflect off of a hard surface. If you are standing at the reflection point, then ARC probably will not hear the problem frequency. My preference is to not be in the room when the sweeps are occurring; but, if that's not possible, then you have to do what you have to do.
post #35426 of 40739
^ Bungee cords through the ceiling vents? You have to remember that not everyone here is a Ninja.

Many people simply get down on the floor while the ARC sweeps are running for each mic position.
--Bob
post #35427 of 40739
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Bungee cords through the ceiling vents? You have to remember that not everyone here is a Ninja.

Many people simply get down on the floor while the ARC sweeps are running for each mic position.
--Bob

Yes, I do have my secrets, that I can't share with anyone, on how I get out of the room without anyone noticing.
post #35428 of 40739
We definately have some great people on this forum, nice to see.
post #35429 of 40739
^We do our best.
post #35430 of 40739
Hello,

i have a small problem with the "output resolution".
In anthem menu i have set the output on "1920 x 1080P 24hz" for blu-ray but when i play a SD-dvd disc the picture is a little bit shocking because the 24hz framerate. So i must set the output on "1920 x 1080P 50hz".

Is there a easier way to fix this? What is "Custom" in de output menu? is that the same as through? The "Auto" function doesn't work very well and that's not a option.

Thanks for the help....
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