AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1185

post #35521 of 40773
1/6/12 at 8:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I have used Multi-Sync CRTs since the 90's - There is always
a best resolution where it was tuned for. That is why we use
a Video Processor - External or Internal.

Changing Resolutions is a BAD practice.

I still don't understand your needs - but it is OBVIOUSLY OLD Technology.

Digital is TODAY.

I've had Multi-Sync CRTs since the 80's.
I've also had a CRT in my HT up until a month ago.
I know exactly where AVfile is coming from.
CRTs definitely have a sweetspot both with the electronics and the resolving power of the actual tubes. The problem is it is a tradeoff because of all the different scan rates of video. Ideally you would like to do 960P on a CRT projector. But a lot of times that may result in a soft image so you make tradeoffs. I disagree that changing resolutions is bad practice. You want to maximize your source to your projector and that is not always possible with one resolution on a CRT.

It is OBVIOUSLY VERY OLD Technology but there is still something about the fluid motion of an analog display. And don't even try to match the black level of a digital projector to a CRT.
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #35522 of 40773
1/6/12 at 9:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovingtravler View Post

This was the BD version. MY friend got it from red box. Had issues they gave him a new BD of the same movie. Same issue. He did some looking around and we talked ... tried bitstream (his AVR does not do DTS MA or DD HD)... that is why he used the core track.

He has a Visio BD player feeding an old pioneer audio only. The HDMI goes direct to a MITs HC-4000

Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.
Reply
Reply
post #35523 of 40773
1/6/12 at 9:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.

I Assume you saw MY POST - I had a Redbox Blu-Ray also.
Reply
Reply
post #35524 of 40773
1/6/12 at 9:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

Update on this....as I was the one originally asking about this issue. Since my D2 does not do DTS MA either, my setting in the Oppo was PCM output, that has always worked with any Blu-Ray I've thrown at it. However, I had to change this setting in the Oppo to Bitstream to get any audio. This was a redbox copy of the movie as well. It has always been my undersanding that PCM was the correct setting from the Oppo to the D2 since it can't do the newer formats, and Bitstream would mean the decoding would take place in the Anthem vs the Oppo...so I'm a bit confused as to why this fixed the problem.

with bitstream you're now getting the core DTS not DTSMA I believe. So that's what you're hearing.
John
Reply
Reply
post #35525 of 40773
1/6/12 at 9:52am
What John says.... you are not getting the lossless tracks but the lossy core. I may have missed it but does your Oppo have the latest firmware? It almost has to be the player if you tried the disk in other players and it worked.
Reply
Reply
post #35526 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

What John says.... you are not getting the lossless tracks but the lossy core. I may have missed it but does your Oppo have the latest firmware? It almost has to be the player if you tried the disk in other players and it worked.

I'm pretty sure that if the D2 has a bitstreamed DTSMA track, the DTS core, 1500 kb/s, will be what it puts out since it can't decode the lossless track, hence you do hear something, just not the lossless track.
John
Reply
Reply
post #35527 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:31am
That is correct John but normally with the D2 you are decoding in the player that is where he had issues.
Reply
Reply
post #35528 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

That is correct John but normally with the D2 you are decoding in the player that is where he had issues.

Obie,
I was aware of that but I was answering his question as to why he got sound bitstreaming instead of with pcm. He seemed puzzled by that. I agree, it seems like the player not the D2.
John
Reply
Reply
post #35529 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:48am
John - I was agreeing with you on the first post and the second post and now with this third post. I'm interested in how it is resolved because I thought this issue was fixed in the Oppo. Guess I need to rent the disk and find out huh.
Reply
Reply
post #35530 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:49am
Arthur,

Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Okay- the dealer sent me the arc results- he said i need the software to open it? is it self explanatory? thanks

Yes you need to install ARC Software on your PC and open the report file they sent you with it. I don't think the PC needs to be connected to the Anthem just to view a report. I don't know what this is going to tell you though... Your next question will be how to interpret all the graphs and it's obvious the dealer did not run ARC correctly, based on what you said.

Why don't you just turn OFF ARC (Room EQ - see the manual) and perform some basic manual setup? You mentioned you don't have a laptop to run ARC but you can calibrate using the Anthem's internal test tones and an SPL meter. This is how I've been calibrating since 1999

Please make sure you have the basic hookups covered first. You do not need lossless 6CH analog connections to perform the initial evaluation - that would be just icing on the cake.

Quote:


-- also anthem said they never heard of losing the pic and sound by pulling out the center channel output... dealer said the same...so who knows what is going on? thanks

It must have been a coincidence. Perhaps you knocked a connector loose when you unplugged the speaker. If it is not repeatable I wouldn't worry.

Hope this helps...

Stefan
Reply
Reply
post #35531 of 40773
1/6/12 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

John - I was agreeing with you on the first post and the second post and now with this third post. I'm interested in how it is resolved because I thought this issue was fixed in the Oppo. Guess I need to rent the disk and find out huh.

I was looking at your HT pics and wondered if it was a basement? Thought they didn't do basements in Florida. Nice room and rack.
John
Reply
Reply
post #35532 of 40773
1/6/12 at 11:41am
John - I get that question a lot yes it is a basement. You got PM.
Reply
Reply
post #35533 of 40773
1/6/12 at 11:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Okay- here are some of the settings-

Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115

Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=
-1.5; music sub= 1.5

Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...
incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.

As Bob said, most of your settings seem reasonable so you might not have to run out and buy an SPL meter if you don't have access to one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

OK that's a good start. There are no problems showing in your crossover frequencies or speaker volume trim values.

Go ahead and put in the proper speaker distances now. You can do that without having to re-run ARC. Incorrect speaker distances will screw up the positioning of sounds that are supposed to be located between pairs of speakers, but generally doesn't screw up dialog.

What he said

After you do this and turn off ARC you can sit in your listening position and run the manual test tones (see user manual). Listen to them buzz around the room and see if all the speakers are working and sound approximately the same (I know this is subjective). Listen to some music or movies and please report back on the sound quality.
Reply
Reply
post #35534 of 40773
1/6/12 at 11:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Okay- the dealer sent me the arc results- he said i need the software to open it? is it self explanatory? thanks-- also anthem said they never heard of losing the pic and sound by pulling out the center channel output... dealer said the same...so who knows what is going on? thanks

On your loss of picture/sound, I think the odds are excellent that you disturbed some other cables when you fiddled with that Center speaker output.

On ARC, yes you will need to install the ARC application to view the file.

You will need a Windows PC computer running XP or later. If you are getting something new, you might as well get Windows 7. Avoid Windows Vista. Many people use inexpensive laptop computers. You don't need anything fancy in the way of graphics, audio, or processing on the PC. The Anthem itself generates the test tones used by the ARC setup, and the ARC application uses a standard Windows feature to input the mic data. The rest is just computation.

The PC will need a USB port for attaching the ARC mic cable. The PC will also need a serial (RS-232) connection to go to the Anthem. Many people do that by using a SECOND USB port on the PC along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter. Plug the adapter into the computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem. If you don't have the Keyspan adapter already in your ARC kit (I don't think Anthem was distributing them back when you got your AVM 40), you can buy it at Amazon or even direct from Anthem. Accept no substitutes. Use just that specific Keyspan adapter. Your ARC kit will include the microphone cable. It should also include the necessary serial cable.

Now, your AVM 40 is old. And that means the ARC software on your install CD is old. To avoid problems, I'm going to suggest you *NOT* install the software from the ARC install CD.

And that means you need to do a few additional steps.

First, download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from Anthem:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software

That link is from Anthem's page for the D2v, but no matter. The ARC install kit is the same for all Anthem processors. (You just need the ARC kit. Don't download the D2v firmware!)

UnZip that downloaded file on your Windows PC and you will end up with a folder. Browse into that folder and find the program Setup.Exe. That's the installer.

Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the Installer on the CD starts up automatically just quit out of it. Now browse into that CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of your AVM 40 and the Serial Number of your ARC mic. The two files are your ARC license and the individualized calibration data for your ARC mic.

Copy both of those files from the CD into the place where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded ARC V3.0.2 stuff.

You can now eject the CD. You are done with it.

Run Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your ARC license and mic calibration files into the correct location. It will add a "shortcut" icon on your Windows desktop which you can use to launch the ARC application itself.

In the future, you can just download and install new ARC versions without having to do the extra steps with those two files. They will simply carry over from the prior install of ARC.

Once you have ARC installed, reboot your Windows PC.

Now, find that file you got from the dealer. Right Click on it and select Properties from the Pop Up menu. Then select Read Only. Then click Apply. Then click OK. You've just write protected that file to make sure you don't accidentally alter it while getting familiar with ARC.

Now you can double-click on that file and it will open in ARC and you can view your ARC charts and Targets window.
--Bob
Reply
Reply
post #35535 of 40773
1/6/12 at 1:13pm
I read somewhere that my display converts 24hz to 72hz or something like that. If that is the case, should I set the anthem to output 72hz for my bluray source? Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #35536 of 40773
1/6/12 at 1:22pm
^^ No, use the stock 24 Hz output mode and let the display do its thing.

To output 72Hz you would have to create a custom output mode with CustomResolutionManager and that is only for dinosaurs with antiquated equipment like me. Then there's no guarantee that the Anthem's VXP will correctly perform 3:3 frame repetition since nobody here has reported trying it with the new software.
Reply
Reply
post #35537 of 40773
1/6/12 at 1:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

^^ No, use the stock 24 Hz output mode and let the display do its thing.

Do you have a 50v/D2v or regular D2?

Thanks for responding, I have the D2v. I currently use the stock 24hz output, but with all the discussions of custom resolutions, I began thinking.....may not be the best way to do things.
Reply
Reply
post #35538 of 40773
1/6/12 at 4:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Arthur,



Yes you need to install ARC Software on your PC and open the report file they sent you with it. I don't think the PC needs to be connected to the Anthem just to view a report. I don't know what this is going to tell you though... Your next question will be how to interpret all the graphs and it's obvious the dealer did not run ARC correctly, based on what you said.

Why don't you just turn OFF ARC (Room EQ - see the manual) and perform some basic manual setup? You mentioned you don't have a laptop to run ARC but you can calibrate using the Anthem's internal test tones and an SPL meter. This is how I've been calibrating since 1999

Please make sure you have the basic hookups covered first. You do not need lossless 6CH analog connections to perform the initial evaluation - that would be just icing on the cake.



It must have been a coincidence. Perhaps you knocked a connector loose when you unplugged the speaker. If it is not repeatable I wouldn't worry.

Hope this helps...

Stefan

thanks for the info- i too thought it was a coincidence and/or a wire became loose- but i tested it 3 times... each time i lost pic and sound and when the wire was put back in everything returned... 3 times...i can do it again but i know what will happen already :-)
Reply
Reply
post #35539 of 40773
1/6/12 at 4:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

On your loss of picture/sound, I think the odds are excellent that you disturbed some other cables when you fiddled with that Center speaker output.

On ARC, yes you will need to install the ARC application to view the file.

You will need a Windows PC computer running XP or later. If you are getting something new, you might as well get Windows 7. Avoid Windows Vista. Many people use inexpensive laptop computers. You don't need anything fancy in the way of graphics, audio, or processing on the PC. The Anthem itself generates the test tones used by the ARC setup, and the ARC application uses a standard Windows feature to input the mic data. The rest is just computation.

The PC will need a USB port for attaching the ARC mic cable. The PC will also need a serial (RS-232) connection to go to the Anthem. Many people do that by using a SECOND USB port on the PC along with the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/serial adapter. Plug the adapter into the computer and run the serial cable from the adapter to the back of the Anthem. If you don't have the Keyspan adapter already in your ARC kit (I don't think Anthem was distributing them back when you got your AVM 40), you can buy it at Amazon or even direct from Anthem. Accept no substitutes. Use just that specific Keyspan adapter. Your ARC kit will include the microphone cable. It should also include the necessary serial cable.

Now, your AVM 40 is old. And that means the ARC software on your install CD is old. To avoid problems, I'm going to suggest you *NOT* install the software from the ARC install CD.

And that means you need to do a few additional steps.

First, download the ARC V3.0.2 install kit from Anthem:

http://anthemav.com/download/anthem-...pport/software

That link is from Anthem's page for the D2v, but no matter. The ARC install kit is the same for all Anthem processors. (You just need the ARC kit. Don't download the D2v firmware!)

UnZip that downloaded file on your Windows PC and you will end up with a folder. Browse into that folder and find the program Setup.Exe. That's the installer.

Now insert your original ARC install CD. If the Installer on the CD starts up automatically just quit out of it. Now browse into that CD and find the Setup.Exe program on the CD. In that same folder on the CD you will find two files with names made up of numbers. The numbers are the Serial Number of your AVM 40 and the Serial Number of your ARC mic. The two files are your ARC license and the individualized calibration data for your ARC mic.

Copy both of those files from the CD into the place where you found Setup.Exe in the downloaded ARC V3.0.2 stuff.

You can now eject the CD. You are done with it.

Run Setup.Exe in the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and also copy your ARC license and mic calibration files into the correct location. It will add a "shortcut" icon on your Windows desktop which you can use to launch the ARC application itself.

In the future, you can just download and install new ARC versions without having to do the extra steps with those two files. They will simply carry over from the prior install of ARC.

Once you have ARC installed, reboot your Windows PC.

Now, find that file you got from the dealer. Right Click on it and select Properties from the Pop Up menu. Then select Read Only. Then click Apply. Then click OK. You've just write protected that file to make sure you don't accidentally alter it while getting familiar with ARC.

Now you can double-click on that file and it will open in ARC and you can view your ARC charts and Targets window.
--Bob

thanks so much... this like reading a treatise on the subject.... thank you again

p.s. i did not disturb any other cables and every time i replaced the center connection the pic and sound returned... 3 times... i am at a loss...crazy ..
Reply
Reply
post #35540 of 40773
1/6/12 at 7:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

Okay- here are some of the settings-

Front crossovers=60; center crossover =60; sub/lfe=60; surr=115

Speaker calib:FL=0; Center 3.0 ;FR=.5 ; Surr R=0;Sur L=-2.0 ;movie sub=
-1.5; music sub= 1.5

Listener position had 12.0 feet for everything ( odd since that is not correct) except rears had 4.0 for both...incidentally i have high ceilings in the room... thanks for all your help.


Speaker distances need to be put in by you (or should have been put in by your installer).
ARC does not calculate speaker distances (or speaker type-direct vs dipole- for your rears/surrounds).
Get a tape measure at your local hardware store and measure from the front of your speaker to primary listening position for each speaker, then enter the distances in the 'speaker distance' section of the setup menu.

You may want to print out the ARC instructions for your installer/dealer.
It is becoming apprent he doesn't have a clue how to run ARC properly.

On second thought, learn to run ARC yourself.
You will find that its no big deal.
And you will want to re-run ARC if you ever change speakers, or even move their positions, or change your seating position.

Tom
Reply
Reply
post #35541 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:14am
I am looking at a 4K resolution on a new TV. Looks like the pass-through upgrade that is coming soon would be the answer for this. Having said that, I have a noob video switching question for the 50V.

Can all of my video inputs / outputs just be pass-through and allow the end TV and the settings of my input device to work together without any processing from the 50V? If that is true, will I still see the volume (and other messages from the 50V) on the TV in pass-through mode? Basically can the 50V work like a switching device for multiple HDMI inputs that are then routed to the TV output?
Reply
Reply
post #35542 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:55am
Yes but no OSD.
Reply
Reply
post #35543 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

thanks for the info- i too thought it was a coincidence and/or a wire became loose- but i tested it 3 times... each time i lost pic and sound and when the wire was put back in everything returned... 3 times...i can do it again but i know what will happen already :-)

Most bizarre... Exactly what cable AND on what component(s) were you pulling it from?

------

So are you going to turn off ARC, do the speaker test, and tell us how it sounds?
Reply
Reply
post #35544 of 40773
1/7/12 at 9:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by arthurrubenstein View Post

thanks so much... this like reading a treatise on the subject ..

If you just want to view the report your dealer sent you don't need to connect your PC to the Anthem or the Mic. I assume they sent you a .ARC file?

Just download and install the ARC software and run it. When the opening dialog says Welcome, "Automatic (recommended)" you select "Manual or Open Existing File" instead. The latter is exactly what you want to do with the .arc file they sent you.
Reply
Reply
post #35545 of 40773
1/7/12 at 9:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

We do not have a 1600x900-capable projector nor an HD Fury so could you temporarily load a different "dummy" custom resolution such as 720p or 1080i and let tech support know what happens when switching? We can only attempt to reproduce the issue with a straight HDMI connection and a "standard custom" resolution.

I'm going to let tech support know but thought I would post here also.

I've narrowed down the switching problem using standard resolutions as you suggest. The problem is when switching from an interlaced mode to Custom.

I think you said before that Custom doesn't support interlaced modes, but looks like Custom has an issue coming FROM an interlaced mode as well.

Note: the symptoms have changed slightly. With 1080i -> 900p switching I was getting the psychedelic colors, now with 1080i -> 720p (custom) I get a split screen with the image repeated twice on either side of a horizontal green bar. 720p -> 720p (custom) seems to work fine.
Reply
Reply
post #35546 of 40773
1/7/12 at 5:05pm
Well the issue with my D2v front display continues. Basically characters on the main display aren't illuminated so I get broken type. I have turned on max brightness and left it on for 30mins last night to see if that makes a difference but nothing changed.

I've contacted the place of purchase who have referred the issue to Anthem ( I've also contacted Anthem). I've sent pics of the issue as well to place of purchase. Just another issue I've had with the unit and just got my projector back from service center (dust blob) been 2 weeks and came back the same long story. Not getting a break from issues at the moment. Looks like the Anthem will have to go for a repair and I've just started my holidays 2 weeks. Great.
Reply
Reply
post #35547 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

Well the issue with my D2v front display continues. Basically characters on the main display aren't illuminated so I get broken type.

...

Looks like the Anthem will have to go for a repair and I've just started my holidays 2 weeks. Great.

I had this problem with a few dim characters just after I performed a firmware upgrade. I was panicking because I thought my laptop went into standby during the video portion of it, which can't be interrupted! So I immediately redid the upgrade and all was well. I'm still not sure what happened.

I feel for you with all this. My advice is to hold onto your Anthem and enjoy it for your holidays. Ship it off if you must when you go back to work.
Reply
Reply
post #35548 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by boblam View Post

I am looking at a 4K resolution on a new TV. Looks like the pass-through upgrade that is coming soon would be the answer for this. Having said that, I have a noob video switching question for the 50V.

Can all of my video inputs / outputs just be pass-through and allow the end TV and the settings of my input device to work together without any processing from the 50V? If that is true, will I still see the volume (and other messages from the 50V) on the TV in pass-through mode? Basically can the 50V work like a switching device for multiple HDMI inputs that are then routed to the TV output?

4K is not supported but then unless you can get your hands on a 4K source any time soon the 4K TV would be upscaling a 1080p and lower source, i.e. no issue in this case.

By definition, pass-through mode does nothing to the signal and that includes adding OSD. If you'd like OSD use processed mode. All the fears I see here about running the source through video processing seem to come from people who haven't tried it. In a digital world "copies" are bit-perfect clones of the source so have no fear with something like a 1080p HDMI input running through a processor with 1080p output - "generational loss" is par for the course only in an analog world. If in doubt, use test patterns and observe.
Reply
Reply
post #35549 of 40773
1/7/12 at 8:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

I've narrowed down the switching problem using standard resolutions as you suggest. The problem is when switching from an interlaced mode to Custom.

Thanks, we'll try it in-house likely with 1080p for Custom, or VGA variants for JVC-based projectors.
Reply
Reply
post #35550 of 40773
1/8/12 at 2:54pm
I have a question regarding the audio that I should be receiving via my Sonos ZP90 and Apple TV. For example, I have both connected digitally with the ZP90 using Coaxial in the CD input and set to "Dig Coax CD" for the "Audio In" setting while the Apple TV is connected via HDMI using the DVD input and set to "Dig HDMI" for the "Audio In:" setting of the "Source Setup" section of the D2V.

When I stream music, from Sonos (subscribe to RDIO for example) or my iTunes library I am only getting 2ch coming out so I can only engage 2ch PLIIx for example. I cannot change the mode to anything but 2ch modes. Is it correct for it to read as 2ch? If it is, then I guess I use the various sound modes to enchance 2ch (ie. Neo6, PLIIx, etc).

What about when you airplay. For example, I have an Airport Express connected purely for Airplaying. I can send it to ALL ZONES in my house but it is connected to the mini RCA of the Airport Express and then to the mini RCA of a C4 HC300 receiver which is connected to the D2V. Thanks.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide