Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1203

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Thanks Ninja!! You where right.. It wasnt the latest version of Arc.. I pulled a rookie move.. It being my first time using Arc. Trial and error I guess.. Thanks everone for the help and input!

Try setting the sub to Flat in the advanced menu as long as your sub can play below 20Hz at high volume. Just save that file change and upload.
John

Ok will do.. Thanks

To add one more thing to what jayray said about your sub and setting it to Flat. Also, make sure your sub has LFE Protection. LFE Protection is a mechanism that the sub has to prevent it from playing below its' limits for the low frequencies. For example, if your sub will play down to 15 Hz, then its' protective mechanism will kick in and not play any frequencies that are below 15 Hz. The Flat setting will cause ARC to pass all the low frequencies to your sub which gives you a little more oomph. The Auto setting will cause ARC to roll off the low frequencies as they begin to reach the lower limits of what your sub can play.

Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering what the difference between auto and flat settings is. Thanks again.

You might want to do another arc measurement. It sounds like a tweeter or driver problem possibly.

I did try that incidentally but that's not it. The distortion was fixed by Anthem in 2.13b but now there is a hissing noise. It's only with Sony SACD at 176k PCM. 88k and 96k PCM and other formats are fine.

hi could someone look at my charts please

does the sub look of as its the Paradigm Reference Signature Sub 25

thanks for any help

Have you posted them ?
Be sure and include the targets also

Your charts look good. The only problem I see, and the reason that ARC set the cutoff for your sub to 85 Hz, is the null that you have from 60 Hz to 100 Hz. You should use Quick Measure to help you find a better location for your sub to eliminate or reduce the null. Once you do that, ARC will set the cutoff for your sub to 120 Hz which is the goal, and your sub's chart will look even better.

jayray has a Sub25, and here's a link to what his sub looks like after using PBK. You should try to achieve the same thing if you can.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1308688275

Check the MRX thread's FAQ, second post, to see what a Sub 25 can do with good positioning, PBK and the ARC.
John

I included the link to your sub in my post. I didn't think you would mind at all.

I completely missed your post and no I don't mind that's why it's there
John

Someone remind me again why we need room gain and why ARC implements it?

Jayray, Tom,
Yes, my charts are centered on 65db, although pre ARC levels were set to approx 75db. Tom, you are correct...a D-2 readout of 0db is really -10db.

TJG

Anyone using a Sony blu-ray player with SACD or SACD player with HDMI please PM me.

Any news On the D2V 3D? I thought it was supposed to be released mid January. or is it 2013?

^ Last word we had is that they are in the final stages of securing HDMI Certification.
--Bob

2014 is more like it........

Isn't the idea that with ARC you don't need PBK?

That's not necessarily true. I always recommend to use ARC first. If it looks like ARC is having a hard time fixing some trouble frequency areas and you are limited in sub locations, then I would suggest the usage of the sub's EQ to fix the trouble areas and then re-run ARC. However, I always suggest trying different sub locations first to resolve a problem; but, it that doesn't do the trick, then it's time to use the sub's EQ and then re-run ARC on top of that.

+1

I was reading a review of the Anthem D2 and ARC at the following website and got pulled into the building of this reviewers music room. http://www.ultraaudio.com/twbas/twbas_20080715.htm

One thing in particular that caught my attention was how he addressed a room mode or standing wave by adjusting the phase of his subwoofer to effectively cancel out the standing wave frequency. He could do this this because his main speakers were full range to 20 Hz and with subwoofer placement and phase adjustment could cancel out the 27 and 40 something modes.

This was in one of the internal links and posted her for reference. http://www.ultraaudio.com/twbas/twbas_20051215.htm


This seems counter intuitive to me and the other informaiton posted so many times regarding proper alignment of phase and spending extra effort to get speakers and and subwoofers in phase for better, crisper, and cleaner reproduction.

I am sure I am missing some small detail, but given the reviewer's expertise and the hired professional he had come in, I would think their method was valid, but just curious how this compares to all the discussions previously on phase adjustment and if there should be a further discussion of when proper phase is required vs. when it can help with room accoustics.

They must be busy. I have sent dozens of emails to tech support about various issues unrelated to the new hardware, which I find very time consuming, to no avail.

Greetings. I am pretty new for posting to the forum, but have been reading and searching for some time. I finally decided to do my first software update.
I installed 2.10 per forum advice and it seemed to go well.
Since the update, my Pany TC-P65V10 will not display 1920x1080P at 60. It will only flicker an image occasionally. It will display an image at 1920x1080P at 24 but seems to have some subtle stutter and choppy movement in the content. The Pany has a setting to handle 24 at 48,60, or 96. The 48 is no good, the 60 and 90 are better but still seem to occasionally stutter.
Prior to the update, the image was displayed perfectly on the Pany at the 60 rate. I have rechecked all of the cables and connectors.
The native resolution for this Pany is 1920x1080.
Any ideas on what might be going on?
Should I try to reinstall the 2.10 again?
Thanks for any and all suggestions!

The most likely explanation is that you bumped the HDMI cables when setting up to do the firmware install with the RS-232 cable.

Make sure all the HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, with nothing (e.g. cable weight) tugging the plug in any direction. Check both ends of each cable. HDMI plugs are just friction fit and it only takes a small shift in the socket to make the connection marginal.

Next got into the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button) and bring up one of the full screen Patterns displays. These are generated independent of any Source device input. Do you get good 1080p/60 output that way. If so, then your problem is on the Source side. If not, double check that you restored your Video Output Configuration settings properly after the firmware install. I recommend you use an explicit data format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto. Also check the Deep Color bit size setting. See if 8 bit works better with your display.
--Bob

Bob,
Thanks for the prompt reply. I had already double checked the cables as you said.
My particular issue had to do with the deep color bit setting you suggested. It was set on Auto. It will only display 1080p60 correctly when set to either 10 or 8 bit.
I now have it set to 10 bit deep color and 4:4:4 with a great picture!
Thanks again for such a rapid response to my problem.
I will have to post my ARC graphs and see what you think.

Great! That Deep Color bit setting was a late addition to the firmware, so it makes sense that you got the default Auto choice since you might not have had it in your earlier firmware.

NOTE: The fact that 10 bit works but 12 bit does not suggests you might need to upgrade your HDMI cable to the display. Check the owner's thread for your display to see if other folks are reporting problems with 12 bit. 10 and 12 bit put more signal bandwidth on the cable, which can lead to problems if the cable is marginal.

By the way, the problem with /24 and certain Panasonic models is pretty much a given. The fact that the 48Hz setting is working so poorly is a sign that you may have one of those models. Check the owner's thread for your model. Using only /60 to the display may be your best bet if so.
--Bob

My panasonic plasma stutters on 48Hz. It's a VT25. On 60Hz it works perfectly, It's a well known issue.
John

Yes, and I believe that the models that have THAT problem with the 48Hz setting also generate false contours (banding) if you use the 96Hz setting.

Which basically means that /24 input to them is a flop. Use /60 and be happy.

(Before anyone asks, I don't know which Panasonic models or model years are subject to this, so check the owner's thread for your model.)
--Bob