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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1240

post #37171 of 40784
Quote:


I get both issues too. However the volume has never been stuck low. I could always turn it up but it would be 20dB too low, which is my muting level. Is your muting level more than that?

I don't know the Mute level on my D2v will check it out. Good to know I'm not alone with this issue. My mate who just purchased a 50v gets the low level issue as well and his running 2.11 firmware, but was also happening with 2.10.
post #37172 of 40784
Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.

I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.
post #37173 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiliman View Post

Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.

I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.

Yes, please post your Targets' View. It sounds like you might be having some speaker placement issues. The S8's are very good speakers, and they can go pretty low.
post #37174 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line

This is for decoding 192 kHz sources (previous models went up to 96 kHz) - ARC is the same.
post #37175 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiliman View Post

Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.

I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

Yes, please post your Targets' View. It sounds like you might be having some speaker placement issues. The S8's are very good speakers, and they can go pretty low.


My S2's crossover at 60hz.Your S8's should go at least that low.
Are you bi-wiring them? If so check your connections.
And please post all your charts.

Tom
post #37176 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Here you go; only 50v gets the "dual-core, dual-processor audio DSP" of the Statement line:

http://www.anthemav.com/index.php?op...id=69&Itemid=8

I was referring to 50s that had ARC so they had the upgraded DSP board. I was not referring to any other processing ability other than ARC.
John
post #37177 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

I was referring to 50s that had ARC so they had the upgraded DSP board. I was not referring to any other processing ability other than ARC.
John

Hmm, I had called Anthem tech support and they said that the ARC upgrade for a avm 50 consisted of the software and accessories plus a firmware upgrade. I specifically asked if their was a hardware upgrade and they said no... Is this not the case?
post #37178 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

My S2's crossover at 60hz.Your S8's should go at least that low.
Are you bi-wiring them? If so check your connections.
And please post all your charts.

Tom

Yep. I am bi-wiring them. I'll check the connections as well as run a reading with the stock jumpers in place.

Thanks
post #37179 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejn1 View Post


Hmm, I had called Anthem tech support and they said that the ARC upgrade for a avm 50 consisted of the software and accessories plus a firmware upgrade. I specifically asked if their was a hardware upgrade and they said no... Is this not the case?

When my AVM 50 was upgraded for ARC, a dual DSP board was also installed since they only had a single DSP. So yes there is a hardware upgrade as well.
John
post #37180 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

When my AVM 50 was upgraded for ARC, a dual DSP board was also installed since they only had a single DSP. So yes there is a hardware upgrade as well.
John

Thanks. So it does have the same DSP as the 50v?
post #37181 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

This is for decoding 192 kHz sources (previous models went up to 96 kHz) - ARC is the same.

DSP used only when ARC is engaged? Confused because the 50v cuts it to 96k when ARC is engaged. When ARC is off thought it was straight to the DAC, no DSP
post #37182 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejn1 View Post


Thanks. So it does have the same DSP as the 50v?

Yes.
post #37183 of 40784
The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, lip-sync delay, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.

AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)

All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.
post #37184 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.

AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)

All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.

Thanks for that Nick.
John
post #37185 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

The DSP is required not just for ARC but to decode compressed formats, bass management, time alignment, lip-sync delay, surround upmix, Dolby Volume, Dolby Digital dynamics control, bass/treble, center channel EQ, Boundary Gain Compensation, Room Resonance Filter, phase and polarity controls, and anything else meant to change the sound.

AVM 50 (no ARC) - single DSP
AVM 50/ARC - dual DSP
AVM 50v - dual dual-core DSP (like 4 single-core)

All different but in the latter two ARC result is the same. Twice the sampling rate requires twice the processing and for that matter twice the storage on the media. Number of DSPs doesn't mean anything on its own because if one DSP can do the job just as well as ten different ones, there's no point in using ten DSPs. The job that needs to be done determines which DSP to use and how many, and all that really matters is what comes out the output jack, not so much how it got there.

Thanks Nick. I assume the DSP in my AVM50/ARC can do all the things you mention but I dont think they are included in the upgrade (eg Dolby Volume)?

Also, The attempt to upload my MRX300 ARC file to the AVM50 did not go so well. I opened the ARC program, then opened the ARC file from the MRX300, then the program flashed a message that the ARC file was from a different model and asked me if I wanted to convert it. I said yes, it converted the file and then I proceeded to upload. The upload froze at about 90% complete and I couldnt abort as everthing was frozen still. I had to unplug, wipe the ARC software from my laptop and proceed to run ARC from scratch with the new mic and software intended for the AVM50. I wound up wasting more time than just doing it from scratch the first time and was a bit worried I might have to reflash the unit. All seem to be good now though.
post #37186 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiliman View Post

Just upgraded from the 50 to the 50v and have been working the ARC this week. It's frustrating as all hell that it keeps calibrating with my Paradigm S8's crossover at 115hz while the C5 gets set at 60hz. Currently I'm manually changing the S8's to 60hz before downloading. I'll post the graphs later for more input.

I'll tell you what, I did not expect such a drastic level of audio improvement from the 50v vs the 50. Very happy with my upgrade. Got a pretty good deal on a 4 month old unit on Audiogon.

When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.
post #37187 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post


When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.

The Sigs and Studios like being up to 3 ft. Away from the wall. My studio 100s did the same thing.
John
post #37188 of 40784
Is it true Anthem is not releasing their new HDMI 1.4 3D boards because they are deeply invested in the new holographic video boards due 2020?
post #37189 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

The Sigs and Studios like being up to 3 ft. Away from the wall. My studio 100s did the same thing.
John

Chiliman,

Studlygoorite and jayray make an excellent point.
Placement is very important to speaker response.
I looked at your pictures of your HT and it looks like the mains are in recessed alcoves which may be causing the problem you are experiencing.

In ARC, under 'tools' there is a very useful option called 'quick measure'. If you are not familiar with it, it allows you to run sweeps on one speaker at a time. It has been very helpful to many of us here in finding an optimal subwoofer position, but in your case it should help you find a better spot for your fronts.

Start it with LF and see what it looks like. Since you haven't posted your charts I can't be sure, but I guess there's a pretty big dip thats causing ARC to set its crossover so high.
Move it out a little from the wall and see what happens in QM. Keep moving it around until you get the best response possible.
Switch the QM to RF and repeat the process. Chances are its optimal position will mirror the RF.
If you have any other speakers that need their position tweeked (especially the sub) you can do that also while running QM.
Once their distance from your back and side walls is determined you may want to tweek the toe in of your fronts for optimal imaging (after you've run QM, but before re-running ARC.) Be sure that 'room eq' is turned off for the source you use to test your imaging.

You will of course need to re-run ARC after moving the speakers, but you should get a much better solution for your speakers.

This takes a little time, but will be well worth it in sound quality.

Tom
post #37190 of 40784
Question folks,

If I setup an HTPC, does the video card HDMI out (connected to one of the D2v's HDMI inputs as a source) take care of the video for sure and audio as well? In other words, I don't need to have a sound card or sound enabled on the HTPC for the audio and video to work.

I'm primarily interested in playing my movies off ripped files on my hard drive and not directly from the PC's Bluray player. I want to use Windows Media Center or Apple TV3 as my main interface(s) to queue up everything and run the movies.

I have some spare parts (old 4870 radeon but no HDMI out just DVI and an Intel E8500/3.1Ghz Core 2 Duo CPU) but I'm not sure they will cut it for what I am looking to do. Particularly, the video card which does not have and HDMI out. Any thoughts/comments/help would be appreciated.

Also, does streaming movies from a native hard drive on your mobo work better/faster than having a USB drive attached to it?
post #37191 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Question folks,

If I setup an HTPC, does the video card HDMI out (connected to one of the D2v's HDMI inputs as a source) take care of the video for sure and audio as well? In other words, I don't need to have a sound card or sound enabled on the HTPC for the audio and video to work.

I'm primarily interested in playing my movies off ripped files on my hard drive and not directly from the PC's Bluray player. I want to use Windows Media Center or Apple TV3 as my main interface(s) to queue up everything and run the movies.

I have some spare parts (old 4870 radeon but no HDMI out just DVI and an Intel E8500/3.1Ghz Core 2 Duo CPU) but I'm not sure they will cut it for what I am looking to do. Particularly, the video card which does not have and HDMI out. Any thoughts/comments/help would be appreciated.

Also, does streaming movies from a native hard drive on your mobo work better/faster than having a USB drive attached to it?

Mstanic:

I believe that since the audio is embedded inside video on any HDMI signal and your contents are valid video/movie files, i see no reason to have a separate audio card. All audio and video should be available from the HDMI connector as other normal devices.
post #37192 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.

Great. Will work with some placement.

Thanks
Randy
post #37193 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

When I moved my room around my S8s went from a 60hz to a 115hz crossover, I moved them out from the back wall 2 more inches for a total of 26" now and all three cross over at 60hz again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Chiliman,

Studlygoorite and jayray make an excellent point.
Placement is very important to speaker response.
I looked at your pictures of your HT and it looks like the mains are in recessed alcoves which may be causing the problem you are experiencing.

In ARC, under 'tools' there is a very useful option called 'quick measure'. If you are not familiar with it, it allows you to run sweeps on one speaker at a time. It has been very helpful to many of us here in finding an optimal subwoofer position, but in your case it should help you find a better spot for your fronts.

Start it with LF and see what it looks like. Since you haven't posted your charts I can't be sure, but I guess there's a pretty big dip thats causing ARC to set its crossover so high.
Move it out a little from the wall and see what happens in QM. Keep moving it around until you get the best response possible.
Switch the QM to RF and repeat the process. Chances are its optimal position will mirror the RF.
If you have any other speakers that need their position tweeked (especially the sub) you can do that also while running QM.
Once their distance from your back and side walls is determined you may want to tweek the toe in of your fronts for optimal imaging (after you've run QM, but before re-running ARC.) Be sure that 'room eq' is turned off for the source you use to test your imaging.

You will of course need to re-run ARC after moving the speakers, but you should get a much better solution for your speakers.

This takes a little time, but will be well worth it in sound quality.

Tom

Will do. I do have the alcoves but the S8's are pulled out of them. I need to take the room down to the studs and rebuild it but that just isn't in the cards right now. I'll move them around a bit and work with the quick measure tool.

I redid ARC last night and it crossed over at 60hz. I had tightened the binding posts and re-positioned a bit. The LF and RF on my graphs are fairly the same. I'll get them posted shortly.

Now, I just have to understand Room Gain better. I'm really not that dense but I've read a bunch of posts here explaining it but for the life of me I do not understand why room gain is "good" and how tweaking it effects the ARC calculations. My room gain is at the max 3.9xxx. I am tweaking it down to and comparing the post calculation graphs and the calculated line looks to be much closer to the target line along the graphs with the gain tweaked down.

Again. Will get them posted. They're on another computer.

Randy
post #37194 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiliman View Post


Will do. I do have the alcoves but the S8's are pulled out of them. I need to take the room down to the studs and rebuild it but that just isn't in the cards right now. I'll move them around a bit and work with the quick measure tool.

I redid ARC last night and it crossed over at 60hz. I had tightened the binding posts and re-positioned a bit. The LF and RF on my graphs are fairly the same. I'll get them posted shortly.

Now, I just have to understand Room Gain better. I'm really not that dense but I've read a bunch of posts here explaining it but for the life of me I do not understand why room gain is "good" and how tweaking it effects the ARC calculations. My room gain is at the max 3.9xxx. I am tweaking it down to and comparing the post calculation graphs and the calculated line looks to be much closer to the target line along the graphs with the gain tweaked down.

Again. Will get them posted. Their on another computer.

Randy

If you lower room gain the listening will tell you what you're missing as opposed to the charts. Without room gain the sound could take on the characteristic of Flat sounding like you're listening outside in a field. With it sounds are more realistic. It's one of the reasons other correction schemes don't sound as good.
John
post #37195 of 40784
chiliman,
It's not that Room Gain per se is good. It's that preserving the inherent Room Gain of your listening room is good. It's part of what gives the perception of listening in a good room instead of out of doors or in an anechoic chamber.

Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain will be present in your room -- 2-4 dB.

Room Gain is a room response characteristic. But unlike most of those, it is one ARC tries to measure and preserve. That makes recordings sound "natural" in your particular room. I.E., like "real" sounds that might happen in the room.

Room Gain is a shallow boost of bass frequencies. It shows on the charts as the shallow hump up of the Target curves near the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump in dB over the basic volume level of the solution (easily found in the flat part of the Target curves for the main speakers off to the right of the crossover frequencies).

Raise or lower the Room Gain value and you'll see how the shape of that hump varies. 0 dB Room Gain means no hump!

The audible effect of Room Gain is precisely what you might expect given the shape of that hump.
--Bob
post #37196 of 40784
Hello Bob.
thanks for the time you have uses on my graphs. i have dessided to make a bafflewall. it will not solve my problems. but will give some more output from 100hz.
i have attached to messuement off my centerspeaker. One freestanding behind the screenwall (the first graph) and one at the same location, but with a small baffle mounted around the center speaker - the size off the baffle is about 1 feed from the speakerbaffle and out.
as you can see, it makes a big difference. i am exieded to see what happens when the bafflewall become mutch larger - the same size as the screen.... 108"

my acoustoc said that with the small room i got, there will always bee nulls and peaks.

edit. my speakers are closed, so there will not bee mutch output under 100hz - M&K mp2510 active studie monitors
LL
LL
post #37197 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

If you lower room gain the listening will tell you what you're missing as opposed to the charts. Without room gain the sound could take on the characteristic of Flat sounding like you're listening outside in a field. With it sounds are more realistic. It's one of the reasons other correction schemes don't sound as good.
John

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

chiliman,
It's not that Room Gain per se is good. It's that preserving the inherent Room Gain of your listening room is good. It's part of what gives the perception of listening in a good room instead of out of doors or in an anechoic chamber.

Movie mixers assume a modest amount of Room Gain will be present in your room -- 2-4 dB.

Room Gain is a room response characteristic. But unlike most of those, it is one ARC tries to measure and preserve. That makes recordings sound "natural" in your particular room. I.E., like "real" sounds that might happen in the room.

Room Gain is a shallow boost of bass frequencies. It shows on the charts as the shallow hump up of the Target curves near the crossover frequencies. The Room Gain value is simply the height of that hump in dB over the basic volume level of the solution (easily found in the flat part of the Target curves for the main speakers off to the right of the crossover frequencies).

Raise or lower the Room Gain value and you'll see how the shape of that hump varies. 0 dB Room Gain means no hump!

The audible effect of Room Gain is precisely what you might expect given the shape of that hump.
--Bob

WAHOO. I am enlightened. Thanks guys, I get it now.

Randy
post #37198 of 40784
Is that "WAHOO" an abbreviated form of Wa Hoo Wa?
TJG
post #37199 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

Hello Bob.
thanks for the time you have uses on my graphs. i have dessided to make a bafflewall. it will not solve my problems. but will give some more output from 100hz.
i have attached to messuement off my centerspeaker. One freestanding behind the screenwall (the first graph) and one at the same location, but with a small baffle mounted around the center speaker - the size off the baffle is about 1 feed from the speakerbaffle and out.
as you can see, it makes a big difference. i am exieded to see what happens when the bafflewall become mutch larger - the same size as the screen.... 108"

my acoustoc said that with the small room i got, there will always bee nulls and peaks.

edit. my speakers are closed, so there will not bee mutch output under 100hz - M&K mp2510 active studie monitors

It looks like you killed off about 6dB of that dip, which is definitely a good thing. It might even allow ARC to do full correction through the dip now without you having to struggle. I'd say you are on the right track.

These cancellation dips come from reflections interacting with each other. Bass sets up "standing waves" that span the volume of the room and if the standing waves from reflections are out of phase with the direct output from the speaker then you get cancellation. By killing off reflections (e.g. a bass trap behind the speaker -- which is what it sounds like you have installed) you can tame the cancellations and thus reduce such dips.
--Bob
post #37200 of 40784
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiliman View Post

WAHOO. I am enlightened. Thanks guys, I get it now.

Randy

I think its an acronym for What A Helpful Online eye Opener!!

Thanks Bob, that was the most helpful explanation of Room Gain I have seen on this thread.
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