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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1255

post #37621 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Ran a quick test with the Telarc sampler this evening while waiting for the wife to start a movie. I was able to apply the Dolby modes and DTS NEO-6 processing and get sound to my rears. I am running the production 1.33 firmware so you may what to try reverting to that. It is still on Anthems site here. I should also mention my Oppo 93 is running the older iso enabled BDP9x-61-1219 firmware.

Thanks for the test. Sounds like I need to "downgrade" D2 firmware from 1.47f back to 1.33 to get the surround modes back for SACDs and DVD-A discs playing on the Oppo. I'll give it a try.
post #37622 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

Ran a quick test with the Telarc sampler this evening while waiting for the wife to start a movie. I was able to apply the Dolby modes and DTS NEO-6 processing and get sound to my rears. I am running the production 1.33 firmware so you may what to try reverting to that. It is still on Anthems site here. I should also mention my Oppo 93 is running the older iso enabled BDP9x-61-1219 firmware.

Thanks for the test. Sounds like I need to "downgrade" D2 firmware from 1.47f back to 1.33 to get the surround modes back for SACDs and DVD-A discs playing on the Oppo. I'll give it a try.

The V1.33 firmware *REMAINS* the correct firmware to use with the original D2. The V1.47f "test" firmware has some changes specific to fixing issues with certain displays, but unless Anthem tech support has suggested you use it, you should be using V1.33.
--Bob
post #37623 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertR View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertR View Post

I notified Anthem of the bug and they said they'd check it. But the only followup so far has been to say "try version 3.00a". I'm disappointed in Anthem. They didn't even bother to say they're working on it.
Now a new problem has popped up: with software version 3.00a, the 50v won't play audio from my HTPC. So not only did 3.00a not fix the earlier problem, it created a new one. Not good at all.

Firmware V3.00a is not even out as "test" firmware yet on the normal, password protected page. It sounds like Anthem has asked you to try it for diagnostic purposes, since there are changes being made in it that could alter the code path in the area where you are having your problem, even though there's no fix in it specific to your problem. Sounds to me like they are trying to gather additional information for the engineers -- or as you might put it, they ARE working on the problem.

Be sure Anthem knows what you found with it, and then just roll back to prior firmware.
--Bob
post #37624 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Certz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderv6 View Post

Help me work this out please!
I reported earlier that I had upgraded my non-3D unit to V3.0 with success except for my Dune Prime 3.0 which frequently refuses to provide audio without multiple on/off cycles that sometimes make it work and sometimes does not. Did not have any such problem in previous FW versions.
So I discovered a way to fix this (by accident) and I just can't work out why this happens....
When watching the Dune (picture but no audio) and then only powering on my PS3 - the audio immediately starts on my Dune. Switch off the PS3 and audio drops out again.
I cannot imagine what is going on here - any ideas?

Hi Spiderv6,

Please read posts 37385, 37387, 37396 and 37398. I have a similar problem to yours with my 50V using firmware 3.0, so I have reverted to a prior version. With 3.0 firmware, I cannot get audio from HDMI 2,3,4,6,7,8 UNLESS I have an HDMI source connected and turned on ( such as the PS3) on HDMI ports 1 or 5. Like you, I thought it had something bizarre to do with the PS3 or my cables but after exhaustive testing, I have to conclude that the fault lies with the combination of the 50V and the 3.0 firmware. No other firmware produces this problem. Have you tried your HDMI 2 out? Is it working properly? Out of curiosity, what is the revision number of your mezzanine boards? You can see them through the top grill with a flashlight. Mine are Ver C 02. My main board is Ver N. It has a green dot which presumably means it passed inspection at the time of manufacture. All are dated Aug 26 2008. I suspect you may have the same board revisions and/or a similar hardware fault to me.

Thanks,
Certz

Perhaps this helps explain why firmware V3.00 has not yet been posted as an "official" upgrade for the 50v or D2v (without 3D hardware)?
--Bob
post #37625 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The D2 and D2v are in the "near exotic" class of equipment in my estimation -- and Anthem expects you to pay for that. Such equipment exhibits diminishing returns -- you can pay a lot more for only a little improvement.


As comparison, I would say that folks who added ARC to their original AVM 50 (an incredible bargain of an upgrade) probably got more net return in audio quality than if they had gone from the AVM 50 without ARC to a D2 without ARC.

All of this stuff is incredibly hard to sort out. What's really needed is to find a way to compare the two units in actual use. But unfortunately that is not possible for most people due to the dealers simply not keeping demo units...

--Bob

Above is an old quote from Bob made 3 or so years ago. Is it fair to conclude that this also applies to the latest and greatest 3D versions of the D2v and 50v?

I got the D2 when it first came out and a major reason I got it in favor of the 50 was that it was unclear if Anthem would provide ARC for the 50 (given that the D2 had more powerful DSP and Anthem said they were not sure if ARC would be available for the 50). Well, turns out that wasn't the case. Also, at the time, i had just upgraded to Paradigm Signature speakers and also listened to music more critically back then (but these days movies are it).

Unfortunately, as Bob indicated, it's virtually impossible to find a dealer that has both D2v and 50v in their showroom. It's hard enough to find an Anthem dealer that carries either one!

Is it fair to conclude that the sonic differences between the D2v and 50v are somewhat similar to the difference (i.e. small) between the Oppo BDP-93 and BDP-95? I know we're taking apples and oranges here, but I'm trying to gauge the differences without the benefit of actually being able to compare them myself.

Thanks

I don't know about the difference in audio between the 50v and the D2v. I've never listened to a 50v.

But I CAN tell you that when I switched from a D2 to a D2v I immediately noticed an improvement in audio. This was totally unexpected, as I knew the major hardware changes where in the video signal path, and I expected only evolutionary changes in the audio path that would be hard to detect.

As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities.

My recommendation remains, if you can afford the price increase get the D2v. If not, get the 50v and be happy.
--Bob
post #37626 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Certz View Post

Hi Spiderv6,
Please read posts 37385, 37387, 37396 and 37398. I have a similar problem to yours with my 50V using firmware 3.0, so I have reverted to a prior version. With 3.0 firmware, I cannot get audio from HDMI 2,3,4,6,7,8 UNLESS I have an HDMI source connected and turned on ( such as the PS3) on HDMI ports 1 or 5. Like you, I thought it had something bizarre to do with the PS3 or my cables but after exhaustive testing, I have to conclude that the fault lies with the combination of the 50V and the 3.0 firmware. No other firmware produces this problem. Have you tried your HDMI 2 out? Is it working properly? Out of curiosity, what is the revision number of your mezzanine boards? You can see them through the top grill with a flashlight. Mine are Ver C 02. My main board is Ver N. It has a green dot which presumably means it passed inspection at the time of manufacture. All are dated Aug 26 2008. I suspect you may have the same board revisions and/or a similar hardware fault to me.
Thanks,
Certz

Curious. Indeed my Dune is on HDMI-4 and my PS3 on HDMI-1.

I can't easily check the physical board markings, but I can tell you I have an early D2V with a serial number in the 141xxx range.

Have you reported this to Anthem and had any response?
post #37627 of 40764
All,

I would appreciate some opinions on...

I have a AVM 50/ARC and moving overseas for 3-4 years to a place that has a HT AV system already installed. Due to this, I'm going to use my existing speakers, amp, etc for a two-channel music system in another room. The music source will be digital (likely a Squeezebox). I'm debating whether to (1) try and pick up used a analog preamp and DAC for my two channel system, (2) purchase a DAC and run into my AVM50 and use Analog Direct setting or nix the DAC altogether and (3) just feed the AVM directly via coax digital and get the full benefits of ARC and bass management. Appreciate the forums views on using the AVM50 as a stereo pre in the before mentioned setups compared to trying out the analog world with a separate decicated pre. The dedicated pre's I've been looking at are in the $1000-$1500 used range from Wyred 4 sound and Primare or equivalent. I would then have to add around $500-$1000 DAC which they're several to choose from that use the ESS Sabre chips.

I have heard (i think) Bob P mention that the benefits of ARC will outweigh the benefits of a high quality analog pre setup so this is resonating in the back of my mind on this one.

Many thanks,
ejn1
post #37628 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderv6 View Post

Curious. Indeed my Dune is on HDMI-4 and my PS3 on HDMI-1.
I can't easily check the physical board markings, but I can tell you I have an early D2V with a serial number in the 141xxx range.
Have you reported this to Anthem and had any response?

I can tell you that the response via telephone from Anthem tech support has been "We've been testing 3.0 for weeks now and we've never seen what you're talking about". That was 3 weeks ago...Well, now I know I am not alone in this. If no software solution is found in the near future, I may be obliged to send it in for repairs, particularly if 3.00 becomes the official posted software for all models. The concern is that 3.00 has revealed a heretofore hidden hardware fault and is causing the unit to misbehave as a result or perhaps the issue is an incompatibility with particular mezzanine board revisions. Have you tested the output signal to your TV via HDMI 2 out? By the way, I could not find the 3.00a on the Anthem tech support website. How does one obtain this? The current download link file contains only 3.00. My serial # starts with 142.
Edited by Certz - 7/15/12 at 9:20am
post #37629 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The V1.33 firmware *REMAINS* the correct firmware to use with the original D2. The V1.47f "test" firmware has some changes specific to fixing issues with certain displays, but unless Anthem tech support has suggested you use it, you should be using V1.33.
--Bob

OK, tried to "down convert" my D2 from 1.47f back to 1.33 with no success.

First tried from my Mac running Boot Camp, Windows 7, and the recommended Keyspan USB-Serial adapter. The app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then locked up (crashed) Windows 7! Tried this multiple times with the same result. This is the exact same configuration I successfully used to run ARC a few weeks ago, so my hardware/software should also be good to go for a firmware update.

Given this failure, I resorted to trying my ancient Dell laptop (with a real serial port!) that I had successfully used in years past for D2 firmware upgrades. The installer app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then displayed the error message "Cannot connect to the OKI boot loader." Tried multiple times with no luck.

FWIW, I disconnected all the HDMI cables from the D2 when trying to install 1.33 firmware.

Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?
post #37630 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post

\
Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?

I have gone forward and backwards MANY times with my D2.

Just USE the ERASER.
post #37631 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post

OK, tried to "down convert" my D2 from 1.47f back to 1.33 with no success.

First tried from my Mac running Boot Camp, Windows 7, and the recommended Keyspan USB-Serial adapter. The app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then locked up (crashed) Windows 7! Tried this multiple times with the same result. This is the exact same configuration I successfully used to run ARC a few weeks ago, so my hardware/software should also be good to go for a firmware update.

Given this failure, I resorted to trying my ancient Dell laptop (with a real serial port!) that I had successfully used in years past for D2 firmware upgrades. The installer app showed "D2 found," turned on the D2, and then displayed the error message "Cannot connect to the OKI boot loader." Tried multiple times with no luck.

FWIW, I disconnected all the HDMI cables from the D2 when trying to install 1.33 firmware.

Is it possible that you can't go backwards from a newer to an older firmware version on the D2? Any ideas of what to try next?

From the same place you got V1.47f, download and run the Flash Eraser utility. That's a Windows program that resets all the programmable parts in the D2 and puts it back in the state where it can accept a firmware install. I suggest you do this with your Dell as your Windows 7 machine may have a problem.

There are two versions of Flash Eraser, so read the descriptions and use the one for units with video boards (like your D2).

After Flash Eraser runs, you should be able to do the firmware install. You will need to re-enter your settings as Flash Eraser clears all that stuff out.
--Bob
post #37632 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

From the same place you got V1.47f, download and run the Flash Eraser utility. That's a Windows program that resets all the programmable parts in the D2 and puts it back in the state where it can accept a firmware install. I suggest you do this with your Dell as your Windows 7 machine may have a problem.
There are two versions of Flash Eraser, so read the descriptions and use the one for units with video boards (like your D2).
After Flash Eraser runs, you should be able to do the firmware install. You will need to re-enter your settings as Flash Eraser clears all that stuff out.
--Bob

Thanks -- I'll try to run the Eraser. The only problem is that since there haven't been any firmware updates for the D2 in years, I no longer saved the information needed to get into "the same place you got V1.47f." Unless somebody wants to send me a private message, I'll have to contact Anthem on Monday for help.

BTW, I *was* able to successfully use the Backup app to communicate over RS-232 with my D2. smile.gif
post #37633 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post


BTW, I *was* able to successfully use the Backup app to communicate over RS-232 with my D2. smile.gif

I can e-mail the Flash Eraser if you PM me
post #37634 of 40764
Flash Eraser v2.3 (AVM 20-HD and up).exe.zip 102k .zip file
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post

I'll have to contact Anthem on Monday for help.

FLASH ERASER Attached ABOVE
post #37635 of 40764
Bob's already answered this further down, but to reiterate: if you can afford the D2v, the audio is reference-class. This goes especially with analog if I recall correctly. What you're saying with the oppo, the only difference is better analog DACs. The HDMI or digital out is identical between both Oppo units. I don't recall if there are better DACs or more DACs per channel with the D2v. As a critical listener, I can tell you that the 50v is simply a beautiful and wonderful piece of equipment. Add in the flexibility of ARC in terms of playing with the curve to suite to taste and I couldn't be happier.
post #37636 of 40764
In my particular case where this has arisen with an AppleTV, the audio anomaly manifests itself on both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 out. I have my setup simultaneously feeding a Sony LCD and Samsung Plasma TV. Anomaly arises whether or not one or both TVs are on. The anomaly in my case will almost certainly arise with the following conditions as a result of the 3.0 firmware:

1) If I turn OFF the TV for some reason, the audio will drop. It will attempt to reconnect and there will be no audio.
2) If I turn the TV back ON, the audio will not come back on. Previous to the 3.0 firmware, the HDMI signal would resync and it would be fine. Not so any longer.
3) Even if I have the audio coming from the Toslink port, the audio will drop. I'll get video fine but not audio in both cases.

I'm assuming this is a 3.0 bug as I've not seen it prior to this. If this is of interest to others as part of the 3.0 debugging, I'm happy to spend some time and document some scenarios. Otherwise, I'm deciding whether to downgrade to the previous firmware version or keep 3.0 and just live with this. I do not appear to have this issue with my other sources (Scientific Atlanta Cable box and Oppo BDP-83). I haven't tested the Roku yet for this issue.

Theo
post #37637 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejn1 View Post

All,

I have heard (i think) Bob P mention that the benefits of ARC will outweigh the benefits of a high quality analog pre setup so this is resonating in the back of my mind on this one.
Many thanks,
ejn1

Absolutely correct. Remember as well that the benefits of ARC or any room correction are directly proportional to the difficulty of the room. There is no question in my case that the Anthem without ARC is noticeably different than the Anthem with ARC. It's really night and day. The room is 50% of the equation in the sound reproduction chain. So spend $15,000 on a preamp in a sub-par room and you don't get what you pay for. I'm totally sold on room correction and both 2-channel and multichannel audio are my priority.
post #37638 of 40764
In Analog Direct will my speakers just be set to 'Large or Full Range?
post #37639 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

In Analog Direct will my speakers just be set to 'Large or Full Range?

There is no bass management or ARC in Analog Direct
post #37640 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

There is no bass management or ARC in Analog Direct

Ok great. That works out perfectly for my turntable.
post #37641 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

Ok great. That works out perfectly for my turntable.

Remember that you can run separate ARC movie and music setups. You can set the music ARC for fronts only--full range. This will allow you to run fronts at full range plus the benefits of ARC.
If you do this you will need to set the Anthem to 'Analog DSP' for the source you run your turntable thru.
It will then be possible to A/B by switching from 'Analog' to 'Analog DSP' to see which you prefer.

Tom
post #37642 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I don't know about the difference in audio between the 50v and the D2v. I've never listened to a 50v.
But I CAN tell you that when I switched from a D2 to a D2v I immediately noticed an improvement in audio. This was totally unexpected, as I knew the major hardware changes where in the video signal path, and I expected only evolutionary changes in the audio path that would be hard to detect.
As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities.
My recommendation remains, if you can afford the price increase get the D2v. If not, get the 50v and be happy.
--Bob

Bob, Thxtheater - thanks for your input. Yeah, I'm surprised that you noticed an improvement in audio going from the D2 to D2v!
post #37643 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Remember that you can run separate ARC movie and music setups. You can set the music ARC for fronts only--full range. This will allow you to run fronts at full range plus the benefits of ARC.
If you do this you will need to set the Anthem to 'Analog DSP' for the source you run your turntable thru.
It will then be possible to A/B by switching from 'Analog' to 'Analog DSP' to see which you prefer.
Tom
Thanks. I prefer the sound of Direct with my vinyl. I am using a Cambridge 640p phono Pre. I do like Analog DSP on other sources.
post #37644 of 40764
Quote: As with the original 50, I'd be willing to bet the 50v is no slouch when it comes to audio. But I think it likely the D2v is better. Whether you will hear the improvement depends on lots of factors, including the quality of your speakers and amps, the type of content you play, and you own critical listening abilities. Bob Pariseau







Not me. But my labrador retriever sure can. He is one happy dog.
post #37645 of 40764
"All the highest notes, neither sharp nor flat.

"The ear can't HEAR as high as that!

"Still, I ought to please any passing bat

"With my High Fi-Del-I-Ty!"

--Flanders & Swann, "A Song of Reproduction"

--Bob
post #37646 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by chileboy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post

You could try changing the "Muting" setting in the source setup. IIRC that controls how long the 50/D2 mutes the output when it detects a change in source, that might let the source "sync" better before it turns the audio back on.
That helped, but did not completely solve the issue - the hiss is just shorter in duration.
Something doesn't seem right - I mean, I have a Denon DVD-3910, and if I am sitting at the main menu of the DVD, simply selecting menu items causes the hiss. What I mean is, if the DVD menu shows, for instance, "Play Movie", "Settings" and "Extras" and I select "Settings", I get 1-3 seconds of hiss until the menu finishes loading. Is that normal?
Same thing happens on a Blu-ray loaded in my PS3.

Anyone have any suggestions other than the Muting setting? Or is the noise I'm describing an expected (or normal) behaviour?

Sent an e-mail to Anthem also, but haven't received a response.

On an unrelated note - having used ARC to calibrate (it's an AVM50 ARC fw 1.33) , in the Speaker Calibration, should my CENTER EQ be set to "YES" or "NO" - it's currently set to NO, the default I believe. The manual says if the center speaker is immediately above the screen - mine is - it should be set to "Yes". But I'm thinking the ARC already figured all of that out. Is that correct? For some reason I never really noticed that setting before.

Thanks,

- Mark
post #37647 of 40764
Mark,

The center EQ is something that pre-dates ARC and has been there at least from the AVM20 days to help compensate for the properties of a center channel in relation to a TV. The settings themselves are not "gospel" in the sense that if you have a 60" TV then that setting is absolutely the one to use. Anthem states that you should use your ears to determine which setting is best. Now, with ARC, I believe that this setting is largely irrelevant. That is my recollection without looking at a current manual. So in my case, I leave my center EQ to NO (or the default off position). So, I believe that your understanding is correct. Re-read the ARC setting section, which basically tells you which legacy settings are irrelevant. I think this is one of them as is the notch filter.

Theo
post #37648 of 40764
^ Center EQ is one of the settings that is disabled when ARC is in use. It does not matter how you have it set, either during ARC Measurement, or in use for any Source with Room EQ ON.

Other settings like this include Room Resonance Filter, THX Ultra II Sub, and Boundary Gain Compensation. ARC supersedes all that stuff.

This is actually in the Manual, although it can be a bit hard to spot.
--Bob
post #37649 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by chileboy View Post

Anyone have any suggestions other than the Muting setting? Or is the noise I'm describing an expected (or normal) behaviour?

Without hearing your "hiss", I can't say for sure, but I don't notice anything like that on my 50V when switching sources.
post #37650 of 40764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

This is actually in the Manual, although it can be a bit hard to spot.
--Bob

Ouch. I'm usually pretty good about that, did not see it. Thanks Bob & Theo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post

Without hearing your "hiss", I can't say for sure, but I don't notice anything like that on my 50V when switching sources.

Well, not sure you need to actually hear it, but it's a fairly loud - jarringly so at times - hiss whenever I switch sources or move between menu items on a DVD or Blu-ray - doesn't seem to matter which source component. I guess you have silence, which is probably the norm?

I've had the issue since Day 1, just trying to sort it out now.

Thanks.

- Mark
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