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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1259

post #37741 of 40747
7/21/12 at 6:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Wingnut:
In addiion to the wonderful advice already given here. i would move the center speaker outward to reduce the bass hump and even out the frequency response in the lower bass regions. Some speakers have a switch in the back to support wall (close to the wall) installations as well as far away installations. I know there's a name for this phenomena but can;t think of it right now.
I would also play with the its tilt until it points directly to the mic to even out its high frequency response as well.
Use ARC's helpful quick measure for these tasks. Click on the Tools -> Quick Measure
You'd have to perform ARC again and upload the results.
- David

Thank you. The center channel is as away from the wall as I can get it. It's on the edge of a floating shelf. I have it angled slightly up but I can play with it some more.
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post #37742 of 40747
7/22/12 at 9:08am
I have followed this thread since page 1.

I have a D2 upgraded from a D1, which I've owned since 2004 and which has been entirely reliable for 8 +/- years.

All 4 HDMI and all 3 optical inputs are utilized as are the 6-channel audio inputs. < All of these work perfectly fed from multiple Tivo, DVD, Blu-ray, HD-DVD and SACD decks.

But I just realized that my entire bank of analog Audio-In inputs has apparently gone dead. I don't know how long the bank has been inoperable because the only cables I had hooked up via analog Audio-In were the set-up audio cords for the occasional equalization procedure for my dual Velodyne DD-15 subwooofers, which since the addition of Anthem's ARC, I haven't utilized in a couple years.

To confirm that the entire bank of analog Audio-In inputs are in fact inoperable, I plugged a simple iPod source dual RCA cable into each set of Left-Right Audio-In inputs.

Since this unit is way out-of-warranty and the closest dealer is in another state, does anyone here have suggestions?

Could it possibly be just software? Maybe I should try a software re-install? < Can I do that without having to reload all my settings from scratch?

I hate the thought of having to ship and wait weeks for a factory repair roundtrip.

Does any repair resource do non-warranty repair of a D2?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Chris
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post #37743 of 40747
7/22/12 at 9:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cargen View Post

Does any repair resource do non-warranty repair of a D2?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Chris

Try Anthem - There will FIX if they have the parts
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post #37744 of 40747
7/22/12 at 9:55am
Chris

Have you checked your source setup ? If the source you select from the front panel or your remote has not been changed to use the analog input it will not work.
Go into the setup for the source you selected and double check that audio in is analog and that correct input is selected under Analog Audio

And if using Analog Direct I believe you will bypassing the analog circuits


Stew
Edited by thestewman - 7/22/12 at 11:27am
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post #37745 of 40747
7/22/12 at 10:20am
Chris,
Do you get audio from the AM/FM tuner? That's also Analog.

And have you tried the LF/RF pair of the 6-Channel Analog input? Are you SURE that iPOD cabling you're using is working? It could be as simple as the jack is not fully inserted into the iPOD.
--Bob
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post #37746 of 40747
7/23/12 at 5:57am
Stew and Bob,

I got it working!!!

I had been trying to custom assign TV3 Source3 Setup, wherein neither AnlgDSP nor AnlgDir would deliver the signal. I didn't think to try using a different Source Setup screen.

Bob's comment about audio from AM/FM, which I had, made me re-think to try using a different Source Setup screen.

I ended up using the CD Setup screen, which I had assigned to another source. AnlgDSP and AnlgDir worked immediately from that source!

Could it be that the "echo screens" such as TV2, TV3, TV4 and DVD2, DVD3, DVD4 are "flakier" somehow regarding only AnlgDSP and AnlgDir than the Source Setups that have no echoes such as CD, TAPE, VCR, AUX?

I was surely baffled and while neither of your responses delivered exactly, they both made me keep at it and . . . All's well that ends well!

THANKS!

Stew, been Barbados-bound lately?

My best,

Chris
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post #37747 of 40747
7/23/12 at 7:12am
Chris,
Great! I'm glad you got it working! No trip back to Canada for it THIS time! biggrin.gif

No there should be no difference in the overlaid Source definitions (e.g., TV 3) as regards assignment of Analog inputs, but you do have to check that you have then set at top to be distinct from the main definition, and of course you have to be careful that you've actually selected them for input -- i.e., pressed the TV source selection button just the right number of times. My guess would be you got the DEFINITION correct but you didn't actually have that TV3 (or whichever) selected as the Main path Source. In addition to simple key bounce problems, that could also happen if you accidentally had the remote set to command Zone 2 instead of the Main path when you were trying to test this.
--Bob
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post #37748 of 40747
7/24/12 at 11:07am
What version of D2V includes HDMI 1.4? Did the new 3D upgarde add 1.4? Basically I am wondering how I know if I used unit has HDMI 1.4. What model do I look for?

Thanks!

-Brian
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post #37749 of 40747
7/24/12 at 11:19am
I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.

I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.

In any case, my question is: would the new D2V 3D upgrade kit potentially alleviate these problems, in combination with newer firmware? To my knowledge the pricing for the upgrade kit hasn’t been announced yet, and I have no actual need for 3D since the Kuro isn’t 3D capable, but if they’ve made any improvements or corrections overall to the HDMI interfaces, I might be interested.

Thanks,
R
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post #37750 of 40747
7/24/12 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsinclair View Post

I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.
I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.

Check your cables, I was having handshaking issues with my 50V (which got much worse when I added the Darbee Darblet), and replacing all my cables with real, high-speed certified BJC cables solved or greatly reduced my issues.
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post #37751 of 40747
7/24/12 at 12:19pm
@stranger89, one of the things we tried was to have Anthem actually send out known-good HDMI cables for testing that they use themselves. While they were a bit more expensive brand than the cables I was using, I experienced the same issue even with their supplied cables.

Thanks,
-R
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post #37752 of 40747
7/24/12 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

What version of D2V includes HDMI 1.4? Did the new 3D upgarde add 1.4? Basically I am wondering how I know if I used unit has HDMI 1.4. What model do I look for?
Thanks!
-Brian

The D2v with the 3D upgraded board has HDMI 1.4. On the unit's osd, it will say D2v 3D if the board has been installed and with the latest firmware.
John
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post #37753 of 40747
7/24/12 at 2:25pm
^ In the updated hardware ("D2v 3D") only the top 4 HDMI inputs -- inputs 1-4 -- and the top HDMI output -- Main Out -- are updated to the 1.4 spec. The lower 4 inputs (HDMI 5-8) and the lower output are still HDMI V1.3.
--Bob
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post #37754 of 40747
7/24/12 at 2:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsinclair View Post

I’ve got a D2V that I’ve had problems with since day 1. At random (but fairly frequent) times, when I power up the unit or switch inputs, I get either a strong magenta tint over the picture, or no picture at all. My dealer tried a number of different settings and spent awhile on the phone with Anthem support when I first purchased it, but no resolution to the problem was ever found (we also tried an entirely separated d2v unit.) The only surefire fix is to reboot the Anthem. Given the overall superior A/V quality of the unit, I elected to keep it rather than switching to another brand, even though entry-level A/V processors from Best Buy don’t exhibit basic functional problems like this.

I have my D2V connected via HDMI to a Pioneer Kuro 600M, and to several sources including a Comcast HD box, an HTPC, an Xbox 360 and PS3. It seems fairly obvious that it’s an HDMI handshaking issue, and I think others in this forum have had similar issues.

In any case, my question is: would the new D2V 3D upgrade kit potentially alleviate these problems, in combination with newer firmware? To my knowledge the pricing for the upgrade kit hasn’t been announced yet, and I have no actual need for 3D since the Kuro isn’t 3D capable, but if they’ve made any improvements or corrections overall to the HDMI interfaces, I might be interested.

Thanks,
R

Shocking Pink video is a symptom that the devices at both ends of the HDMI handshake have failed to agree on whether the data format for video is YCbCr or RGB. This isn't supposed to happen, but can happen if the handshake doesn't complete normally. If the disagreement goes the other way you get Ghastly Green video.

There are two usual fixes: (1) Set an explicit video data format (e.g, YCbCr 4:4:4 or Studio RGB) instead of using Auto, or (2) upgrade your HDMI cables

The consensus opinion on AVS is that the Pioneer Kuro displays are happiest receiving Studio RGB from the Anthem. So set that in Setup > Video Output.

But keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol so the problem may ACTUALLY be on the Source side. Again, look for a setting in the Source device that tells it to output a specific format instead of negotiating via Auto.
--Bob
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post #37755 of 40747
7/25/12 at 6:11am
Okay - i am sure that People's are tirred to hear about the DTS HD MR issue. BUT i am beginning to bee very frustrated . Two times i have contacted anthem tec support about this issue , the last tree weeks. No respond.
I am felling that i have no options , beside to bye a oppo bdp 93. But that can't bee right. The audio performence from this Unit is second to non. But why Can i get a answer from anthem?
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post #37756 of 40747
7/25/12 at 7:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

Okay - i am sure that People's are tirred to hear about the DTS HD MR issue. BUT i am beginning to bee very frustrated . Two times i have contacted anthem tec support about this issue , the last tree weeks. No respond.
I am felling that i have no options , beside to bye a oppo bdp 93. But that can't bee right. The audio performence from this Unit is second to non. But why Can i get a answer from anthem?

What method did you USE?

e-mail tech@anthemav.com

Phone +1-905-362-0958

Form http://anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support
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post #37757 of 40747
7/25/12 at 8:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

What method did you USE?
e-mail tech@anthemav.com
Phone +1-905-362-0958
Form http://anthemav.com/Contact-Technical-Support

The one at the bottum.
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post #37758 of 40747
7/25/12 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

The one at the bottum.

Many people have complained about that one.

Try the 1st one - email
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post #37759 of 40747
7/25/12 at 9:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Many people have complained about that one.
Try the 1st one - email

I Will try that - thanks a lot
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post #37760 of 40747
7/25/12 at 9:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

I Will try that - thanks a lot

Of course the Phone works the BEST but I understand you are across the pond.
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post #37761 of 40747
7/25/12 at 12:27pm
A heads up. It looks like Settings Backup Utility V1.03 from the ARC V3.0.2 kit may not be compatible with the D2v 3D hardware running the V3.00 firmware.

Nick conjectures the hardware/firmware combo is returning a Model ID the utility is not expecting.

This is being checked. The symptom should be that the utility can not find the D2v.

Use the User and Installer memories or pen and paper to back up your settings.

The above is not confirmed yet.
--Bob
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post #37762 of 40747
7/25/12 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Many people have complained about that one.
Try the 1st one - email

I Will try that - thanks a lot

If you use email or the web form, double check that the SPAM/JUNK filter in your email is not discarding the reply emails from Anthem.
--Bob
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post #37763 of 40747
7/25/12 at 1:33pm
What does the dipole setting on the surrounds do, exactly?
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post #37764 of 40747
7/25/12 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

What does the dipole setting on the surrounds do, exactly?

Simple. It disables the ability to set speaker distance for those, and automatically uses instead the largest distance you have set for any other speaker. The idea being that Dipoles work by reflecting sound off the adjacent walls/ceiling, so a directed-radiated distance is not appropriate.
--Bob
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post #37765 of 40747
7/25/12 at 2:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Simple. It disables the ability to set speaker distance for those, and automatically uses instead the largest distance you have set for any other speaker. The idea being that Dipoles work by reflecting sound off the adjacent walls/ceiling, so a directed-radiated distance is not appropriate.
--Bob


Cool. Thanks.
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post #37766 of 40747
7/25/12 at 6:01pm
Am I nuts thinking I might like the sound of my direct, in ceilings surrounds in dipole mode? I tried it just for kicks.
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post #37767 of 40747
7/25/12 at 6:36pm
Has anyone solved the popping noise through the speakers on shut down? Most concenrning as I like to use the 12 volt triggers to turn the equipment on and off.
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post #37768 of 40747
7/25/12 at 9:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by boostie View Post

Has anyone solved the popping noise through the speakers on shut down? Most concenrning as I like to use the 12 volt triggers to turn the equipment on and off.

You should not have any noise if you turn off the amps first.
Some amplifiers have a huge amount of capacitance storage that is slow to dissipate after shutdown.
I know the old Adcom amps I had would make noise after everything was shut down due to stored capacitance,
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post #37769 of 40747
7/26/12 at 2:10am
I understand that thank you, but if using the 12 volt trigger on the anthem the amp will always turn off after the amp. Had no issues with my Yamaha 3800.

Pointless having 12volt triggers on the anthem if you can't use them with causing issues.mad.gif
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post #37770 of 40747
7/26/12 at 2:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by boostie View Post

I understand that thank you, but if using the 12 volt trigger on the anthem the amp will always turn off after the amp. Had no issues with my Yamaha 3800.

Pointless having 12volt triggers on the anthem if you can't use them with causing issues.mad.gif

"The amp will always turn off after the amp" is a typo?

Be sure you have the triggers configured correctly. You have to enable the set of triggers and you have to set the events that invoke each of the 3 triggers separately. It sounds like your amp may be responding to input audio voltage instead of to the trigger so also check the setting on the amp itself.

The Specifications in the back of the Manual state the Polarity of the Trigger voltage -- Tip positive, Sleeve ground. Make sure the cable is wired to deliver the Polarity your amp expects.

In addition, check that the mini-plug is FULLY inserted in the jack. Some of them can be a bit stubborn.
--Bob
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide