Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1262

Originally Posted by SimonNo10 

No worries here are the results after applying 2.0 gain:



Thoughts?

If sherlock sounds good I suspect everything will. Looks good to me but others may give you advice on how to tweak further. Now listen to material you are familiar with to compare.
John

Originally Posted by SimonNo10 

No worries here are the results after applying 2.0 gain:



Thoughts?

Originally Posted by jayray 

Usually 1.2 is too low and would be hard to detect. Try 2-2.5.
John

Originally Posted by SimonNo10 

Quick question to anyone that owns an Oppo BDP-95 and a D2v. I'm thinking of trying out the dual HDMI method (Oppo has 2 HDMI ports) as I've read it could provide a better PQ, but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the D2v. Can someone enlighten me please . Is it worth trying out?

Originally Posted by wingnut4772 


Is that what most use? I still have mine on the default.

Originally Posted by SimonNo10 

Quick question to anyone that owns an Oppo BDP-95 and a D2v. I'm thinking of trying out the dual HDMI method (Oppo has 2 HDMI ports) as I've read it could provide a better PQ, but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the D2v. Can someone enlighten me please . Is it worth trying out?

Originally Posted by boostie 

Doc1.docx 131k .docx file
Doc2.docx 255k .docx file
How do these look?? First go with ARC.

I would say listen to what you have with the 2.0 room gain and see how that sounds to you. If you feel you need a little more oomph, then you can increase the room gain to 2.5. However, if you do, then definitely keep an eye on your LF. I say that because you want to have full correction one octave below the cutoff which in your case would be down to 45 Hz. Right now, with a 2.0 room gain, your LF is about 1 or 2 db from being fully corrected with the room gain set at 2.0. So, increasing the room gain to 2.5 might be a bit much. Like I said earlier, listen to it with the 2.0 room gain, and if it's pleasing to your ears, your job is done, and you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor

Why use something MANY years old unless you already own one??????????

To try it out, wire HDMI 1 from the OPPO direct to your Display and wire HDMI 2 from the OPPO to the D2v.

Originally Posted by boostie 

Can someone please give some feedback on the graphs?

Originally Posted by jayray 

Let them know it didn't work for you. That's all we can do.
John

Originally Posted by RobertR 

Wrong. It's NOT fixed. I just tried it, and it did absolutely nothing to solve the problem for me.
I have to wonder if Anthem always assumes there's a center channel, and doesn't bother to check that it should be off to duplicate my conditions.

Originally Posted by Certz 

I installed 3.03 on my 50v and so far the no HDMI audio issue on HDMI ports 234678 problem persists, so for me, it has not been fixed. I did make a hardware addition; namely an apple TV (1080p black model) which is hooked up to HDMI 1. This has created a workaround, a HDMI handshake enabler if you will, allowing all the other ports to function normally. It behaves like an HDCP issue. Once the 50V has established a proper HDMI handshake with a device on port 1 or 5, it okays all other ports to receive audio. You get to the point where you just get tired of fiddling. Anyways, there is something new that has been introduced, something I have not seen before and that is sometimes a pink haze using the apple TV. If I go into the 50v's setup menu and then back out of it while using the Apple TV as source, this can happen but does not always happen. Turning the Apple TV off and on again seems to resolve the issue. Also, I believe that my HDMI 2 out is shot. The output is much lighter, almost hazy, the colours are posterized or solarized and the edges are filled with lines. It just doesn't look right, like an 8 bit computer screen. How this happened I do not know as I have never used that port before I tried it a couple of weeks ago and discovered it was faulty. Whether this is the cause of my no audio problem with firmwares 2.14 and above, I do not know. Whether this indicates that there is a failure on some level on the main mezzanine processing board I do not know. I do know that HDMI 2 is on the main board. Perhaps I should take it in to repair before the warranty expires just to have it checked out thoroughly. In any case, the 3.03 offers quick switching and better menu in/out response.

Originally Posted by Certz 

I installed 3.03 on my 50v and so far the no HDMI audio issue on HDMI ports 234678 problem persists, so for me, it has not been fixed. I did make a hardware addition; namely an apple TV (1080p black model) which is hooked up to HDMI 1. This has created a workaround, a HDMI handshake enabler if you will, allowing all the other ports to function normally. It behaves like an HDCP issue. Once the 50V has established a proper HDMI handshake with a device on port 1 or 5, it okays all other ports to receive audio. You get to the point where you just get tired of fiddling. Anyways, there is something new that has been introduced, something I have not seen before and that is sometimes a pink haze using the apple TV. If I go into the 50v's setup menu and then back out of it while using the Apple TV as source, this can happen but does not always happen. Turning the Apple TV off and on again seems to resolve the issue. Also, I believe that my HDMI 2 out is shot. The output is much lighter, almost hazy, the colours are posterized or solarized and the edges are filled with lines. It just doesn't look right, like an 8 bit computer screen. How this happened I do not know as I have never used that port before I tried it a couple of weeks ago and discovered it was faulty. Whether this is the cause of my no audio problem with firmwares 2.14 and above, I do not know. Whether this indicates that there is a failure on some level on the main mezzanine processing board I do not know. I do know that HDMI 2 is on the main board. Perhaps I should take it in to repair before the warranty expires just to have it checked out thoroughly. In any case, the 3.03 offers quick switching and better menu in/out response.

Originally Posted by spiderv6 

I just got an email from support to say that V3.03 fixed the issue. Will try it later today and find out.

Originally Posted by spiderv6 

It didn't work. Still have the HDMI/audio issue in V3.03

Originally Posted by RobertR 

Anthem just sent me version 3.04. I was initially excited, because I heard sound coming from the rears. But then, the bad news: 3.04 says "ok, you set center to none, so you must REALLY mean I shouldn't bother with center channel information, so I'm going to kill ALL center channel sound". So now I have no dialogue, nothing. Sigh. Double sigh.

Originally Posted by ninja12 

You should repost your charts because the graph for your RF is messed up. It looks like you may have mistakenly adjusted the graph some how. Anyway, if your RF looks like your LF then overall, your graphs are good. I would, however, suggest that you play around with different sub locations. You have some dips that hopefully can be corrected by trying different sub locations. One thing with the sub, moving it a matter of inches can make a big difference. Right now, ARC has set your sub's cutoff to 80 Hz. The goal is for ARC to set your sub's cutoff to 120 Hz. A 120 Hz setting will ensure that you will not miss out on any of bass frequencies. You can use Quick Measure to see the results of moving the sub around to different locations. Once you find a spot that gives you better results, you will have to rerun ARC again to calculate a new measurement. Also, you should change the setting for your sub from Flat to Auto because your sub is beginning to drop off around 25 Hz. You should only set your sub to Flat if your sub has built-in low frequency protection, and it plays with good volume down to 20 Hz and below. The Flat setting causes ARC to send all the low frequencies to the sub which means that your sub needs to be able to protect itself from playing the low frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities. If it can't, then you could damage your sub by setting it to Flat. The Auto setting causes ARC to roll off the low frequencies to ensure your sub doesn't play frequencies that are beyond its' capabilities.
If you go to the Anthem MRX Receivers Forum and go to the FAQ and scroll down to Jayray sub's chart, that's what you should try to make your sub's graph look like or come close to.
I hope this was helpful.

Originally Posted by boostie 

Thankyou very much. I will have a play and see how I go. I am running two Svs pb 13 ultras which I believe have subsonic filters which should protect it. They are set at 15hz. Both subs are in the back two corners of my room.
Yes I stuffed up the graph on the right channel,it is the same as the front left.

Originally Posted by drhankz 


There are some HIDDEN front panel screws on the

inside of the chassis. Still no big Deal - I not only

did my own I even made my own [GRIN] - it was

faster.

Originally Posted by dmusoke 

Drhankz:
I pulled a post you wrote on this topic 5 years ago. How did you manage to remove the curved ears easily? I see no simple way to access the screws to do so? I agree i am a green thumb in most things mechanical, but this seems like quite a job to do ...
- David

Originally Posted by dmusoke 

.... I understand.
I've finally managed to pull the entire front face off the D2v to access the hidden screws but what a pain-and-not-an-obvious-thing-to-do for some of us...
- David

Originally Posted by boostie 

how does the sub look now?