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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1268

post #38011 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by a1usedcomp View Post

Is anyone using a Harmony 1100 with the D2 ? I am having an issue with the volume , it jumps 3db at a time sometimes more .
If you mean that a single press and release of the Volume button sometimes does a multi-step volume jump, then what you need to do is reduce the "key repeat count" to 0 in the Harmony's device configuration for the Anthem. Look in Troubleshooting for "Commands happen more than once".

Many devices will reject a command unless they receive it more than once. So by default the Harmony will send commands more than once. Thus each button press for Volume Up/Down is sending more than one of those.

If you mean that pressing Volume several times rapidly, or pressing and holding it, causes Volume to change at a more rapid rate, that's the way the Anthem is designed. Try it with the original remote. If you press Volume several times rapidly or press and hold, the Volume will first change by half dB steps and then it will start changing more rapidly under the assumption you are trying to make a bigger change.
--Bob
post #38012 of 42662
Speaking of HDMI issues, I wanted report that I have used the new Monoprice 65 feet HDMI cable with Redmere between my D2V and my JVC projector with success. It is passing a 1080p60 12 bit signal without artifacts.
post #38013 of 42662
Thanks again Bob works perfect set at 0 smile.gif
post #38014 of 42662
Did you buy the Ultra Slim RedMere ? I was thinking of getting some
post #38015 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by a1usedcomp View Post

Did you buy the Ultra Slim RedMere ? I was thinking of getting some

That's the one. Seems to work as advertised, and I bought the longest length they sell currently.
post #38016 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I would run, not walk, to get your Component cables (and optical audio) attached. Life is too short to fight with a cable TV box's shoddy HDMI implementation.
--Bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Yeah, bummer but why me:cool:?
Will do so indeed... Have you ever managed to do a comparison between an HDMI and Component video feed from a cable box? Do i now have to 'tune' the VideoADC parameters used for analog video as displayed in the video display menu? Are component video cables rated ( or certified) in any way like HDMI ones?

Bob?
post #38017 of 42662
^ It's highly unlikely you'll need to adjust the Video ADC settings when using Component. Those tend to be more useful when dealing with S-video input from simple devices.

Component cables need to be shielded, and should be kept as short as practical given the placement of the equipment. They are not rated in the way that HDMI cables are rated. You don't need exotic Component cables. See what Blue Jeans and Monoprice are offering if you don't already have a set of decent cables in your drawer.

I wouldn't recommend using Component for connecting a Blu-ray player, but given the actual content resolution on Cable HDTV Component will work just fine. I used Component for quite some time with a prior Comcast cable box that had a faulty HDMI implementation. I've also checked Component 1080i input from my OPPO 93 for testing purposes. And I still have my current Comcast box hooked up both ways so I can check that its HDMI really is working correctly.

Of course the bottom line is that anything that works is better than anything that doesn't work, and since HDMI is faulty from your Cable box, Component is definitely the way to go. Odds are excellent the problems in the cable TV content quality will swamp anything the Component hookup itself might be causing.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 8/12/12 at 12:17am
post #38018 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

OK ...so i managed to move things around and moved my rack close to the TV as possible and used another HDMI 1.3 cable, 6 ft in length(from Monoprice i believe) which i connected directly from the D2v output to the TV, bypassing my cable savers and cable extensions. Bummer, i still received the pink haze switching between HDMI 1 and the FM/AM input.
I then performed another test. I switched between my Oppo95(HDMI 2) and the FM/AM input several times. No pink haze and all was good which made me think that it was either HDMI 1 itself that was bad or the source on HDMI 1 was bad. I switched sources between HDMI 1 and 2. I then switched several times between HDMI 2 and the AM/FM input. The pink haze occured. It had moved to HDMI 2 this time!
This led me to the cuplrit being the source itself which is my Moxie DVR HD cable box. Unfortunately, support for the Moxi box is very spotty ever since they were bought out by Arris. So i'm left with 2 options...Change all "Scaler to None" to "Scaler= HDMIx" , where x= 1 to 8. Or use the Component video output from my cable box into the D2v(which works btw with no pink haze). Trying to assess the difference between the component and hdmi input i've been using viewing broadcast TV from Time Warner Cable. Tough to tell so far but all is still preliminary...
Thanks all for help provided so far. It seems i have a finicky cable box.
Thanks again,
- David

Cables r cheap and the back or the box pretty resilient I would ditch the port savers.

and mine



wouldn’t care to run component ever. There is a work around to the purple haze correct?

I have a couple of questions.

1) Is there any way of getting 2.1 to zone 2. Even at copy would be good, could I run sub 2 out to zone 2. Solution when sat box is not on zone 1 with a vol issue I could control using the back of the sub.

2) If I drive zone 1 music 2.1 would a separate arc show improvements over 5.1 movie.

3) Will anthem ever put a check box on don’t show this splash screen again and let us open arc manually by default.

Regards
post #38019 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shayne2 View Post

I have a couple of questions.

1) Is there any way of getting 2.1 to zone 2. Even at copy would be good, could I run sub 2 out to zone 2. Solution when sat box is not on zone 1 with a vol issue I could control using the back of the sub.

2) If I drive zone 1 music 2.1 would a separate arc show improvements over 5.1 movie.

3) Will anthem ever put a check box on don’t show this splash screen again and let us open arc manually by default.

Regards

1) Zone 2 is stereo only. If you are Copying Main to Zone 2 (so that both are playing the same content), then you'll have Sub output on the unused Sub jack, but the result if you wire that to your Zone 2 location will be unsatisfactory because the Sub output is using the ARC solution for the Main room, and bass steering is not happening on the L/R audio outputs for Zone 2. So the short answer is NO.

2) Calculating a separate Movie and Music ARC solution is certainly worth a try. If there is nothing changing in the room itself between using it for movies and music you can do this with a single Measurement pass for Movies -- your existing ARC solution for example -- and then going into Targets in ARC and in the Music column, uncheck Same as Movie. Then for the speakers you DON'T want to use, put an "n" -- for "no speaker" -- in the "cutoff" Targets value for each. Accept those adjusted Targets, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. Data from those speakers will not be considered as ARC builds the Music solution. Upload that and set a Source to use Base Management Music. Now, depending on your room and speakers -- i.e., depending on how much ARC has to adjust things when those other speakers are included -- doing this may or may not produce an audibly different result of just using your existing 5.1 Movie solution but setting the Audio Mode to STEREO when playing your stereo music content. I.e., press the Mode button once then Up/Down arrow to select Stereo. 2.0 input played using Stereo audio mode while using a 5.1 ARC solution will only put output on 2.1 speakers, which is what you desire. The difference is that the 5.1 solution was calculated considering the needs of the Center and Surround speakers, which may be different than if you Calculate a separate Music solution with Center and the Surrounds set to No Speaker. If you like the result of using your 5.1 solution but played in Stereo audio mode, you can set up a Source where Setup > Mode Presets for that Source automatically selects Stereo audio mode as the default each time you play 2.0 content on that Source.

3) Double-click on any existing ARC results file and the ARC application will open immediately in the chart view for that file -- i.e., skipping the initial selection screen.
--Bob
post #38020 of 42662
I have my Oppo 93 set to 1080p output 1080/24 auto the D2 display reads 1080p but my TV shows 720x480 60

if I go into the D2 under video settings and choose 1024/768 60 it says mode cant be supported .

If I pick 1920/1024 60 it will work if I leave it to auto I only get 720x480 on tv even is D2 shows 1080p


What would be my best setting ?
post #38021 of 42662
^ If you have an HDTV start with 1920x1080i/60 as that's the standard resolution for HDTV broadcasts, and any HDTV should be able to accept that.

Your TV may also accept 1920x1080p/60.

If you have an older HDTV that has a native pixel matrix of 720p or 768p then there may be a better choice but the 1080i or 1080p choices should be your starting point for an HDTV while you are getting familiar with how things work.

The Manual for your TV should tell you what resolutions it will accept as input, and from that, or marketing material, or the owner's thread for your TV here on AVS you should be able to find out what the native pixel matrix of the TV is. Most new, better quality HDTV sets will be 1920x1080p for their native matrix.

Get the /60 stuff working first before you worry about how to get /24 video working.
--Bob
post #38022 of 42662
New "Test" Firmware on Anthem's Password Protected Download Page.

Anthem has placed TWO new firmware versions on their password protected download page.

V3.05 is identical to V3.04b except for the version number. It is a "release candidate", and may become the next "official" release shortly, specifically for people who are about to receive their 3D upgrade kits and have to have a firmware version to complete that install.

V3.05a is an "experimental" version with DTS speaker position remapping disabled. See the discussion in recent posts. If you want to have a go at this firmware be aware of a couple things:

1) Nick tells me this V3.05a build is hot off the presses. It has not received the normal level of internal testing that typically happens BEFORE firmware appears on the password protected page. This means it might possibly fail in very basic ways due to some simple mistake in building it -- mistakes which normally would have been caught before we'd ever get to see it. Thus the usual caveat is even more important. "Test" firmware is not finished yet and may come with unpleasant surprises. Do not install "test" firmware unless you are OK with that.

2) A change like this may have unintended side effects in the Bitstream decoding. So don't assume that ONLY the remapping is affected. Keep a sharp eye out for other aspects of decoding that might have gotten broken by this experimental change.
--Bob
post #38023 of 42662
Sorry Typo 1920x1080p 60 works
Edited by a1usedcomp - 8/12/12 at 7:06pm
post #38024 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ It's highly unlikely you'll need to adjust the Video ADC settings when using Component. Those tend to be more useful when dealing with S-video input from simple devices.
Component cables need to be shielded, and should be kept as short as practical given the placement of the equipment. They are not rated in the way that HDMI cables are rated. You don't need exotic Component cables. See what Blue Jeans and Monoprice are offering if you don't already have a set of decent cables in your drawer.
I wouldn't recommend using Component for connecting a Blu-ray player, but given the actual content resolution on Cable HDTV Component will work just fine. I used Component for quite some time with a prior Comcast cable box that had a faulty HDMI implementation. I've also checked Component 1080i input from my OPPO 93 for testing purposes. And I still have my current Comcast box hooked up both ways so I can check that its HDMI really is working correctly.
Of course the bottom line is that anything that works is better than anything that doesn't work, and since HDMI is faulty from your Cable box, Component is definitely the way to go. Odds are excellent the problems in the cable TV content quality will swamp anything the Component hookup itself might be causing.
--Bob

Thx Bob!
post #38025 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by dweltman View Post

Speaking of HDMI issues, I wanted report that I have used the new Monoprice 65 feet HDMI cable with Redmere between my D2V and my JVC projector with success. It is passing a 1080p60 12 bit signal without artifacts.

BTW ... what would these artifacts look like?
post #38026 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shayne2 View Post

Cables r cheap and the back or the box pretty resilient I would ditch the port savers.
.
.
.

Regards

I got the port savers because people were accidently destroying the back end input connectors whenever they would attempt to insert HDMI cables at skewed angles in low light conditions.
post #38027 of 42662
In what instance would the 1080p 24 setting be best? I have a Kuro but I set the video to 1080p 60 for all except my Oppo input which I've set to Through. Mostly because I really have no idea what I'm doing. Lol.
post #38028 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

In what instance would the 1080p 24 setting be best? I have a Kuro but I set the video to 1080p 60 for all except my Oppo input which I've set to Through. Mostly because I really have no idea what I'm doing. Lol.

Thats exactly how i've set my system as well. The Kuro upconverts the 24Hz from the Oppo 95 to 72Hz, otherwise all else is /60p.
post #38029 of 42662
Remote options


I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.

Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it

Thanks
G
post #38030 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

BTW ... what would these artifacts look like?

I was getting blue/green sparkles
post #38031 of 42662
^ Were you playing 70s music? biggrin.gif
--Bob
post #38032 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post

Remote options
I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.
Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it
Thanks
G

I use a Harmony 900 and it works great. My only complaint is I can't figure out how to change surround formats on the fly.
post #38033 of 42662
"Experimental" Firmware V3.05a Update

Nick tells me they did find some issues in internal testing with V3.05a, but the fixes have already been found. They are now considering putting up an alternate "release candidate" with the intention to choose between that one and V3.05 to become "the real thing". Stay tuned.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 8/13/12 at 11:28am
post #38034 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post

Remote options
I was curious what other members of this forum used for controlling their D2v’s and other equipment in their home theaters. I have been investigating systems like Crestron, Control 4 , Harmony, and others. I like the idea of utilizing a tablet as I also use my tablet for my Sonos system.
Just curious what other people utilize and what they like and do not like about it
Thanks
G

I use a Harmony 900 and it works great. My only complaint is I can't figure out how to change surround formats on the fly.

I've used Harmony for years, and loved the ease of user programmability, but recently their Support has taken the dreadful step of charging $30 per incident after the first 90 days. Now keep in mind that your configuration is on their servers and the only way to use it is via software whose versioning they control.

It has and does happen that they will make software changes that BREAK your working configuration, and so the next time you update the remote with some minor change things are now broken. In the past they offered free configuration support for the life of the product, and so you could get such things fixed. Basically a minor nuisance.

Now you have to pay per incident even when it was their change, which you had no choice but to use, which broke things.

Deep sigh....

To select the Surround Mode you need the Mode button and Up/Down Arrow. These are in the database.

To go to a SPECIFIC Mode directly, you need to send a 3-button command. See Appendix A in the Manual.

The 3-Button commands are not in the database for this, but Harmony Support can add them to your configuration.

For a fee.....
--Bob
post #38035 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I've used Harmony for years, and loved the ease of user programmability, but recently their Support has taken the dreadful step of charging $30 per incident after the first 90 days. Now keep in mind that your configuration is on their servers and the only way to use it is via software whose versioning they control.
It has and does happen that they will make software changes that BREAK your working configuration, and so the next time you update the remote with some minor change things are now broken. In the past they offered free configuration support for the life of the product, and so you could get such things fixed. Basically a minor nuisance.
Now you have to pay per incident even when it was their change, which you had no choice but to use, which broke things.
Deep sigh....
To select the Surround Mode you need the Mode button and Up/Down Arrow. These are in the database.
To go to a SPECIFIC Mode directly, you need to send a 3-button command. See Appendix A in the Manual.
The 3-Button commands are not in the database for this, but Harmony Support can add them to your configuration.
For a fee.....
--Bob

So the Harmony does not give you the option to self program buttons or your remote?
post #38036 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post

So the Harmony does not give you the option to self program buttons or your remote?

Sure, it can "Learn" single buttons that aren't in the database, but you need Harmony support to:

1) Add a 3-button sequence as a single button in your configuration.

2) Code a button to auto-repeat if it is pressed and held -- the way Volume Up/Down do by default.

3) Code a button to send a "long command" signal when pressed and held instead of just one command or an auto-repeat multiple command.

For example, you want "7" to send a long command when pressed and held so you can access the Video Source Adjust menu. "0", "8", "Mode", and "Setup" also need this. The Arrow buttons need to send multiple commands.

If the database entries are wrong, their support has to fix it.

My most recent experience is that some change THEY made in their software broke some customizations like this they had previously done for me. And now they want $30 to fix their screw up.
--Bob
post #38037 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

That seems like a long time especially since you're not dealing with border issues. I'd call Anthem directly to find out what's up.
John

Well, I spoke to my dealer and they said the delay is because Anthem cannot reproduce the problem... which is really frustrating because I spent a long time swapping interconnects, speakers, amp channels, user settings vs. factory default, etc. to isolate this to the Center Channel Pre-Outs. So unless a wonkey connection got bounced back into place during shipping, or some weird software thing is occurring, there is no obvious explanation.
post #38038 of 42662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Sure, it can "Learn" single buttons that aren't in the database, but you need Harmony support to:
1) Add a 3-button sequence as a single button in your configuration.
2) Code a button to auto-repeat if it is pressed and held -- the way Volume Up/Down do by default.
3) Code a button to send a "long command" signal when pressed and held instead of just one command or an auto-repeat multiple command.
For example, you want "7" to send a long command when pressed and held so you can access the Video Source Adjust menu. "0", "8", "Mode", and "Setup" also need this. The Arrow buttons need to send multiple commands.
If the database entries are wrong, their support has to fix it.
My most recent experience is that some change THEY made in their software broke some customizations like this they had previously done for me. And now they want $30 to fix their screw up.
--Bob


Thanks Bob,

I will have to dig into the Harmony option a little more. I'd like to find out if anyone is using a Crestron system and how they like it too.

G
post #38039 of 42662
i am an independent Crestron programmer (CAIP), so use a Crestron system
i have coded a lot of commands beyond the AVM20 module i started with, but there are still things i haven't coded or added to my system
with time i could implement every possible function listed in their spreadsheet, but most of us would never need all of it
my point is that a Crestron programmer could implement anything that is documented and hopefully design a reasonable GUI to use them

mark
post #38040 of 42662
CAUTION: "Test" Firmware Not Ready for Prime Time Yet!

If you take a peek in Anthem's password protected download page and see "test" versions NEWER than V3.05, don't bother installing them yet. They need some additional fixes. The "release candidate" V3.05, which is just "test" V3.04b with an "official" version number, is OK to load.

Sometimes getting a firmware release out is like trying to fold a lawn chair. Push on one part and another part pops out....
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 8/13/12 at 1:44pm
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