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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1302

post #39031 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

NO it does not! ARC only stops applying correction and therefore does nothing to the frequencies above the 5kHz (or whatever you have the limit set to).
What you are seeing is the rolloff that is normally occurring with your speakers, cables, room, etc. (as seen by the mic). We see it all the time here, with some more than others. I would say your rolloff is a little more than average but not shocking.
By the way ARC seems to be doing a phenomenal job of smoothing out your ripples below 5k. If you decide to raise the upper limit to apply more correction up high there keep an eye on that to make sure you're not losing something down low.

Understand that you cannot take speakers and place them anywhere in a room and expect them to perform perfectly or even up to their design limitations.
You have to experiment. Move the speakers. Set the levels correctly. Set the phasing.
Add equalization or other modifications such as ARC. Add room and wall dampening devices etc
Now you know where to start.
Raise the Equalization maximum and watch the charts for results. Or post the charts here and someone
will respond with their thoughts and ideas.
post #39032 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

I might jst try this because i think a roll out at 5kHz is seriously limiting. But i guess the proof will be in the listening. Would be good to hear from other D2v users who may have played around with this high Max Freq EQ and what their experiences have been to date.
Also does it matter what i name the ARC file? Or does the file always have to be title - Anthem Room Correction?
Once i upload the file is there anything else i need to do in the menu system of the anthem? Or do these settings just take effect whenever i am listening to movies or music? These settings once uploaded now become the "Default" settings. Nothing else needs to be configured within the Anthem itself?
Thank You

The default 5kHz cutoff is more than adequate. Your room has less influence over the sound the higher you go in frequency. The bass region is where your room plays the biggest part and is where most of the help is needed. I've experimented raising the correction past 5kHz and lowering it below 5kHz. Raising it caused my system to become increasingly harsh as the high frequencies began to be over emphasized. Lowering it didn't really make any difference in sound. Some things that could be causing your drop off are speaker pointing (toe-in, tilt), microphone positioning or maybe a defective microphone. As you mention, listen to it for yourself and see if it sounds right to you.

I append a date to my filenames so I can see if I've made any progress after making changes to my system or room. My filenames look like this: Anthem Room Correction12-02-2012.ARC.

After you run ARC, you need to go into settings to turn it on for each source that you want to use it with.
post #39033 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post


You have to setup the two subs as described in the Anthem D2v manual. See the pages referring to Bass management.
If you are using ARC you should have selected 1 (one) as the number of subwoofers even though you have 2 subwoofers.
You should also have set the sub woofer sound levels, balanced them to each other, and set their phasing prior to setting up and running ARC.
The setting for Max Frequency is in the ARC targets just below the center of the chart.
You never stated what you were going to use for your sound source but if it has speaker and/or bass management, that should also be set up in
a precise way before you use the the D2v with ARC.
And finally, you need to go into Source setup and set Room EQ to ON for all the sources that will be using ARC
Have fun.
Seriously The Anthem D2v is a great processor, there just are a large number of steps to accomplish to make it work and sound super.

When i ran the ARC i think i chose two subs instead of one as you have suggested. I will also have to have a re-read of the manual about Bass management. As i haven't set the phasing or anything on my subs. They are all set to neutral at this point. Although they do come with quite an extensive array of features like phase shift and eq etc. Sounds like i need to set the Sub woofer bass setting BEFORE running ARC. In any event i am going to have to run ARC again because of the sub woofer selection issue.

I am using an Oppo BDP-95 as my source

What i meant by being able to see the Max Frequency is not on the ARC program but rather where do i see this setting in the Anthem Menu? For example i can see the X-over frequencies and their respective settings from ARC when i go into the Anthem menu and look at each speaker but i could see anywhere anything mentioned about the Max Frequency setting?
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

When you look at the graphs compare the original graph line (RED) to what ARC wants to be able to set (BLUE)and then the line representing what it is able to set (GREEN).
Your final chart lines are smooth from beginning to end with out any peaks or dips, Your subwoofer is able to go extremely low and gently rolls off at its highest point.
Your subwoofers are extremely capable and you should follow NInja12's recommendation on a tweak you can easily perform
"One little tweak that I can suggest for your sub. If you haven't done it, you should set your set to "Flat". You can do this by bringing up your Targets' View, click the Advanced Button, Change the sub setting from "Auto" to "Flat", click Ok, click OK, click Calculate, Save your ARC file, click Upload, Save user/installer settings in your D2v. You DON'T have to remeasure when you make this change. What the "Flat" setting does is not roll off any of the Low Frequencies (LF). Instead it sends all the LF to your sub. This will allow you to feel a little more oomph in the LF."
Also I would like to suggest you move the subs outside the L/F and R/F speakers alomg the outer walls and maybe into the corners if possible.
You can use Quick Measure to test the new locations as you move them.. It should sound even better
Again, Have fun and enjoy the great sound. Your adventure is just starting

Thank you and i will try moving the subs to the outside of my mains. Although i wonder if i have got such a great result in the position they are already in would it be worth moving them?

I have tweaked my settings based on Ninja12's comments.

LOL .. after i uploaded the ARC file i watched another movie thinking that the ARC was already on by default. Now i read i have to go in and tell the source to use these settings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

NO it does not! ARC only stops applying correction and therefore does nothing to the frequencies above the 5kHz (or whatever you have the limit set to).
What you are seeing is the rolloff that is normally occurring with your speakers, cables, room, etc. (as seen by the mic). We see it all the time here, with some more than others. I would say your rolloff is a little more than average but not shocking.
By the way ARC seems to be doing a phenomenal job of smoothing out your ripples below 5k. If you decide to raise the upper limit to apply more correction up high there keep an eye on that to make sure you're not losing something down low.

So if i do raise the Max frequency above 5kHz you are suggesting i run ARC again? Won't these settings be "by-passed" when i run ARC again? I am a bit confused here. Does the Anthem retain the uploaded ARC settings when i run ARC again? So i can run ARC and test the first ARC calibration file i uploaded? This should essentially yield the same result as "Calculated" from the graphs right when i do this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Understand that you cannot take speakers and place them anywhere in a room and expect them to perform perfectly or even up to their design limitations.
You have to experiment. Move the speakers. Set the levels correctly. Set the phasing.
Add equalization or other modifications such as ARC. Add room and wall dampening devices etc
Now you know where to start.
Raise the Equalization maximum and watch the charts for results. Or post the charts here and someone
will respond with their thoughts and ideas.

Please see my comments above about running ARC on an uploaded ARC? But yes i will absolutely post my results on here. The feedback i received from you guys is great. - Thank You

Also please see my comments below about the 5kHz roll off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieU View Post

The default 5kHz cutoff is more than adequate. Your room has less influence over the sound the higher you go in frequency. The bass region is where your room plays the biggest part and is where most of the help is needed. I've experimented raising the correction past 5kHz and lowering it below 5kHz. Raising it caused my system to become increasingly harsh as the high frequencies began to be over emphasized. Lowering it didn't really make any difference in sound. Some things that could be causing your drop off are speaker pointing (toe-in, tilt), microphone positioning or maybe a defective microphone. As you mention, listen to it for yourself and see if it sounds right to you.
I append a date to my filenames so I can see if I've made any progress after making changes to my system or room. My filenames look like this: Anthem Room Correction12-02-2012.ARC.
After you run ARC, you need to go into settings to turn it on for each source that you want to use it with.

Thank you re the filename - this is something i did do in terms of naming the file that reflected it's "profile" somewhat. Not too dissimilar to what you have suggested btw.

As for this 5kHz roll off i suspect it must be the room. Because my main speakers at least have a frequency range of 26Hz to 50kHz - so it does surprise me to see this roll off at such a low frequency level (relatively speaking of course - given the freq. range is 26Hz to 50kHz). The room is not treated at all so i suspect once i start treating it i should see a bit of an improvement? Not with standing the limitation of the mic of course. Perhaps it is just an artefact of the mic and what you see really has nothing to do with anything else other than the contraints of the mic not being able to accurately monitor much beyond 5kHz?
post #39034 of 42717
I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.
post #39035 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.

Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?
post #39036 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

When i ran the ARC i think i chose two subs instead of one as you have suggested. I will also have to have a re-read of the manual about Bass management. As i haven't set the phasing or anything on my subs. They are all set to neutral at this point. Although they do come with quite an extensive array of features like phase shift and eq etc. Sounds like i need to set the Sub woofer bass setting BEFORE running ARC. In any event i am going to have to run ARC again because of the sub woofer selection issue.

Good that you have caught trhis error. reset the number of subwoofers to one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

I am using an Oppo BDP-95 as my source..

Then you need to follow these OPPO setup instructions when using a D2v with ARC

In your OPPO setup settings The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using.
In the OPPO speaker setup you should set ALL speakers to high and the distance to 12 and subwoofer to On or Yes as the speaker setup will be handled in the D2v ARC setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

What i meant by being able to see the Max Frequency is not on the ARC program but rather where do i see this setting in the Anthem Menu? For example i can see the X-over frequencies and their respective settings from ARC when i go into the Anthem menu and look at each speaker but i could see anywhere anything mentioned about the Max Frequency setting?.

There is NO max frequency setting per se in the D2v or in ARC. That would be counter productive.
The reason you see cutoff in the graphs is that ARC has a maximum frequency that it applies correction to which is the cutoff frequency you see in the target setup. The graph results in ARC are only the application of ARC NOT the frequency response of your system. If you want to see the full frequency response of your system you will need a full range microphone, some additional hardware for plugging in and amplifying the microphone, not the ARC microphone and a program such as REW. What you see
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

Thank you and i will try moving the subs to the outside of my mains. Although i wonder if i have got such a great result in the position they are already in would it be worth moving them?
I have tweaked my settings based on Ninja12's comments.
LOL .. after i uploaded the ARC file i watched another movie thinking that the ARC was already on by default. Now i read i have to go in and tell the source to use these settings.

Good that you are aware of this too !
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

So if i do raise the Max frequency above 5kHz you are suggesting i run ARC again? Won't these settings be "by-passed" when i run ARC again? I am a bit confused here. Does the Anthem retain the uploaded ARC settings when i run ARC again? So i can run ARC and test the first ARC calibration file i uploaded? This should essentially yield the same result as "Calculated" from the graphs right when i do this?
Please see my comments above about running ARC on an uploaded ARC? But yes i will absolutely post my results on here. .

You do not need to rerun ARC again unless you actually change the physical configuration of your system or make some changes in the OPPO or other sources.
Name and save the ARC file like you have done in case you want to use it again, You can change the settings in ARC in the targets such as setting the subwoofers to flat or the hi freq cutoff and upload the new settings to the D2v. Listen to the new settings. You can look at the new graphs that ARC will have and if you do not lkie the new sound reload your old ARC file you saved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

The feedback i received from you guys is great. - Thank You

Also please see my comments below about the 5kHz roll off.
Thank you re the filename - this is something i did do in terms of naming the file that reflected it's "profile" somewhat. Not too dissimilar to what you have suggested btw.
As for this 5kHz roll off i suspect it must be the room. Because my main speakers at least have a frequency range of 26Hz to 50kHz - so it does surprise me to see this roll off at such a low frequency level (relatively speaking of course - given the freq. range is 26Hz to 50kHz). The room is not treated at all so i suspect once i start treating it i should see a bit of an improvement? Not with standing the limitation of the mic of course. Perhaps it is just an artefact of the mic and what you see really has nothing to do with anything else other than the contraints of the mic not being able to accurately monitor much beyond 5kHz?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post


Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?

This is not a limitation but designed this way as expertly explained by forum member CharlieU
post #39037 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

This is slightly complicated as you are setting up two different systems. One is analog and the other digital. You are using two devices that would individually handle bass management and speaker setup so you do not want them conflicting.
OPPO
The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using.
In the OPPO speaker setup you should set ALL speakers to high and the distance to 12 and subwoofer to On or Yes as the speaker setup will be handled in the D2v ARC setup.
I think this how I would suggest you connect the two CD/SACD/DVD-Audio sound sources to get maximum utilization
Sony 5400 ES
Balanced stereo output to D2v Balanced stereo input
HDMI to any HDMI input on the D2v
OPPO 95
Single ended stereo output to CD Left and Right Stereo analog input
Hdmi to any D2v HDMI input
7.1 Multi channel analog output to the D2v 7.1 analog input
D2v
In Setup for Sources
2 channel select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog Audio 2Ch Bal........................This will play your Sony 5400ES as analog stereo when selected on the D2v
6-Ch SACD Setup select Audio In as Analog DSP and Analog Audio as 6ch S/E............This will play your OPPO multichannel SACDs and use your subwoofer when selected
CD select Audio In as Analog Direct and Analog audio as CD....................................This will play your OPPO as analog stereo when sele\cted on the D2v
DVD set up 1 for the OPPO HDMI input and 1 for the Sony HDMI input.......................This will allow you to use ARC for SACD/DVD/BluRay on the OPPO or the SONY
You will, still have 2 additional DVD sources you can use.....
Set up ARC as per BOB P's instructions. ARC will set the crossovers in the setup and the cutoffs in ARC and you should not be readjusting them

'thestewman" One thing is in complete contradiction to what I understand, and what Oppo has told me and what the Oppo manual says; you are saying that "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output......", and in my understanding it affects the Analog outs, not HDMI's. Please confirm, anyone else here.
post #39038 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

'thestewman" One thing is in complete contradiction to what I understand, and what Oppo has told me and what the Oppo manual says; you are saying that "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output......", and in my understanding it affects the Analog outs, not HDMI's. Please confirm, anyone else here.

I typed and stated, "The speaker setup does not effect any analog output so anything you set will not effect the stereo or multi-channel analog outputs you are using"
.
You are correct. My mistake while typing and thinking ahead. Glad you caught my error.

I should have said the OPPO speaker setup will affect only the OPPO multichannel analog output.
Sorry

Stew
Edited by thestewman - 12/2/12 at 6:47pm
post #39039 of 42717
Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.

Thanks.
post #39040 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
Thanks.
There is a beta v1.47f for the D2 and AVM50. Email Anhem to see if it will help.
John
post #39041 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrisles View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

I have a fully treated room and I see the same roll off probably more then most graphs I see posted here. I don't think it is the room so much as a limitation of the mic and its positioning.

Yes beginning to think that the mic was more "the culprit" than anything else. So what we are seeing is a constraint of the mic itself. And as you say just about everyone is going to see a roll off around 5kHz because of this limitation. So do you set your Max Frequency above 5kHz?

Lots of things affect the ability to measure the high frequencies accurately, which is one reason Anthem sets the default upper limit for applying correction to 5KHz. First and foremost, the treble frequencies are far more directional than the bass frequencies. Most speakers will have a distinctly non-uniform output of treble, with the problem typically being more pronounced in the vertical direction than in the horizontal direction.

This means that when the mic is off the center axis of a given speaker, there is less treble heard simply because the speaker is not putting out as much treble in that direction. So the thing to do first is to check the pointing of your speakers. And in particular, if the speakers are not mounted at seated ear height, check their VERTICAL pointing. The Center and Surrounds should point at ARC mic position #1 (your center-most seating location). The Left Front and Right Front should NOT point at ARC mic position #1. The usual Rule of Thumb is to "toe those in" only about 1/3 of that angle. That is, if you consider how much you would have to rotate LF/RF to point at #1 (starting from pointing straight to the back of the room), only swing them 1/3 of that amount. The Subwoofer pointing is irrelevant for treble of course.

Next, make sure your tweeters are actually functioning. It is not uncommon to blow a tweeter in a speaker and simply not notice because the mid-range drivers also produce output up there (just not as much). By the way, this has happened often enough in this thread that we even have a name for it in here. We call it "Richard Syndrome", after the first poster to have this epiphany: The discovery -- via ARC -- that one or more of your speakers is actually BROKEN even though you have been happily enjoying it up to now!

To check this, play stereo content (e.g., a CD) with good treble components (bells and cymbals for example), set MONO ALL Audio Surround Mode in the Anthem -- which sends the same audio to every speaker -- and go put your ear right up close to the tweeter in each speaker in turn and make sure it is producing output. All the speakers should sound similar. If one or more speakers is not producing tweeter output, then fix that first before you do anything else with ARC. It could be wiring (separate input jacks -- or improperly wired bi-amp setup) or a fuse rather than a blown tweeter.

Next, consider the method of speaker installation. We've heard time and again here from folks who have in-wall or otherwise customized speaker installations who have discovered, for example, that the speaker grill cloth or grill mounting hardware was actually blocking output from the tweeters of one or more of their speakers. A grill bar across the center axis of the tweeter -- even several inches in front of it -- is enough to screw things up royally because the treble output of the tweeter is so directional.

Next, double check the way you are using the mic during your ARC Measurement passes. For proper Measurement of treble it is important that you follow several rules:

1) The mic must be pointed STRAIGHT UP at each mic position.
2) The tip of the mic should be set at seated ear height. If you recline your seats, then that's what you should do when judging seated ear height.
3) The tip of the mic must not be adjacent to blocking or reflective surfaces. Consider each mic position. Keep the mic at least 18 inches from walls/drapes. If you have high seat backs, raise the mic a few inches to clear the top of the seat, or move that mic location a foot closer to the screen to get it away from the seat back.



Keep in mind that you can use the Quick Measure tool (found in ARC's TOOLS Menu) to check, in real time, the raw (uncorrected) audio the mic is hearing at any given position from any given speaker. So you can see the affect any changes might be having.

The red Measured curves ARC displays in its charts are an "unweighted average" of what the mic is hearing from that speaker across all the mic positions. Each mic position will have a different direction angle to each speaker, so treble response will vary. The regular ARC chart averages that out. So what Quick Measure shows for any given mic position is unlikely to match that regular ARC chart curve in every detail. But if you move the mic around you can mentally average the Quick Measure result yourself to get a feel for what would happen with the real Measured curve. (ARC actually calculates its results using all the mic data -- not just the average shown in the charts -- but the averaged curve has proven to be an excellent surrogate for what's really going on.)

Do remember that Quick Measure reconfigures the Anthem so that it can hear uncorrected speaker output. That means that when you are done with Quick Measure, you need to open and re-Upload your current ARC solution, or do a whole new ARC setup pass if you've changed anything (e.g., moved speakers around).



A much less likely problem, but still worth checking, is that you are using the wrong mic calibration data file. These files are unique to each ARC mic. Your ARC mic has a serial number. Go to Windows > Program Files > Anthem > Anthem Room Correction (which is where the ARC application gets installed), and you will find in there two files with names made up of a pair of numbers -- the serial number of your Anthem and the serial number of your ARC mic. These are your ARC license and your ARC mic calibration data files. Check that the numbers match your mic. If not, then Anthem Tech Support can email the correct files to you.

While you are at it, check that you have the current version of the ARC application. Open ARC in the charts view and check About ARC in the Help menu. The version should be V3.0.2.



There are other things that affect the quality of treble measurement which are likely out of your control. These include things like room humidity. But when you have more treble roll-off showing in ARC than you think makes sense, take the steps above first to eliminate those causes that you CAN control.

Each room setup will be different, and each set of speakers will have more or less pronounced treble directionality. If it looks to you like ARC is picking up quality treble data for the speaker Measurements, then you can experiment with raising Targets > Max EQ Frequency to allow ARC to apply correction further up. If not, then leave Max EQ Frequency at 5KHz and trust that the high frequency roll-off you are seeing in the charts is "not real". But don't assume that until you have checked the basics as above.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 12/3/12 at 12:32am
post #39042 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
Thanks.
Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.
post #39043 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donloz View Post

Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.

a. This was posted over a year and a half ago and I still haven't seen a v1.33 problem description during the last few years with any substance it in (post 33029):

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/33000#post_20249396

b. Archive links are on this easy to find page, it's all there:

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software

c. When reporting a problem, put a little meat in it like steps to reproduce the issue and send it to tech support otherwise nothing useful will happen (post 38649 is a guideline):

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485582

Now let's please talk about something real that hasn't been talked about before. Thank you.
post #39044 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donloz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

Is there any updated software for the AVM40 (beyond 1.33)? HDMI issues are getting annoying.
Thanks.
Good luck with that. Anthem STOPPED supporting the units below their D2.v a couple of years ago. They never did resolve all the issues with the original D2. Anthem doesn't even have an archive for our older units.

The Archive for your older units:

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedProduct.html

http://archive.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/Downloads/DiscontinuedStatementProduct.html

Steve, Anthem prepared a "test" version beyond V1.33 to assist with problems from certain specific, older attached devices with flaky HDMI implementations, but V1.33 is the better of the two versions for everyone else. Let Anthem Tech Support know what model of HDMI display and HDMI Source devices you are using just in case, but the odds are high they will tell you V1.33 is the place to be.

HDMI problems most commonly have to do with cabling. Seriously, even if you are using the SAME cabling, the contacts may have gotten dirty or corroded. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy chained cables, HDMI switches, additional video processors, etc. -- ANYTHING -- in the HDMI path, those alone could be the source of your problems. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so every HDMI cable from Source to Display should be suspect.

Try operating at 1080i as a test. If 1080i works, but 1080p does not, that's usually pretty good evidence the problem is in the cabling.
--Bob
post #39045 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

a. This was posted over a year and a half ago and I still haven't seen a v1.33 problem description during the last few years with any substance it in (post 33029):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/33000#post_20249396
b. Archive links are on this easy to find page, it's all there:
http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software
c. When reporting a problem, put a little meat in it like steps to reproduce the issue and send it to tech support otherwise nothing useful will happen (post 38649 is a guideline):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38640#post_22485582
Now let's please talk about something real that hasn't been talked about before. Thank you.
Nick, Thank you for your reply,
A. I still get pink screen and total snow, on power up, but not all the time.I did talk to tech support last week and was asked to put in Studio RGB (1a DATA ) with not any better results. The D2 still locks up changing sources. I brought my unit into Anthem last year or so, and Anthem changed some part inside and installed 1..47. I went back to 133
B. I could not find this folder doing a search on D2, I will keep this link.
I know Anthem does their best at resolving any and all issues,

THX
post #39046 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donloz View Post

I did talk to tech support last week and was asked to put in Studio RGB (1a DATA ) with not any better results. The D2 still locks up changing sources.

Might be an issue between the D2 and your TV (handshake through system still applies even though D2 does the source switching). The TV brand that you mentioned to tech support last year used to come up very often in regard to HDMI issues all its own, so check for TV software updates if this hasn't been done. I don't have any up to date info on the combination and this is the first I'm hearing of it in a long time - best to keep working with tech support. Could be anything including the source side.
post #39047 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

Might be an issue between the D2 and your TV (handshake through system still applies even though D2 does the source switching). The TV brand that you mentioned to tech support last year used to come up very often in regard to HDMI issues all its own, so check for TV software updates if this hasn't been done. I don't have any up to date info on the combination and this is the first I'm hearing of it in a long time - best to keep working with tech support. Could be anything including the source side.
The sources are the same, almost. Now OPPO 105, PS3, SA-8300 HD-DVR., Denon 3930ci. All cables Ultra Link platinum. Most likely bad hand shake with monitor. Problem solved, buy a new monitor.
Cheers
post #39048 of 42717
Let's focus on identifying and fixing the right problem.

Is your TV running latest software? Considering how many D2 and AVM 50 v1.33s are in use, connected to a variety of monitor brands including yours, one of the best known names, I see no reason that it can't work regardless of what went on a few years ago when said TVs didn't work with the same company's Blu-ray players (and their support reps knew it).

If it is then temporarily disconnect the 8300 then the 3930 while ensuring that the 105 and PS3 are also running their latest. Note exactly when lockups occur, if they still do, and let tech support know what steps are needed to reproduce them.
post #39049 of 42717
D2v w/o 3D starting to have issues
I loaded 3.09f and everything was OK for a few days
I had crunching sounds out of front speakers when I was navigating the gui on my rogers box & nmt
then no audio, nothing brought it back
reverted to 3.09c - everything back to normal for a couple of days (still had crunching when navigation gui), then no audio
powered D2v off/on multiple times along with sources - no luck
installed 3.09f again
back to normal again, but for how long
nothing has changed in my setup

mark
post #39050 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkaye View Post

D2v w/o 3D starting to have issues
I loaded 3.09f and everything was OK for a few days
I had crunching sounds out of front speakers when I was navigating the gui on my rogers box & nmt
then no audio, nothing brought it back
reverted to 3.09c - everything back to normal for a couple of days (still had crunching when navigation gui), then no audio
powered D2v off/on multiple times along with sources - no luck
installed 3.09f again
back to normal again, but for how long
nothing has changed in my setup

mark

There are lots of possibilities including amp problems, or a pretty severe ground loop. E.g., if the amp is shutting down to protect itself (perhaps due to an intermittent short in speaker wires), it might stay shut down long enough that you'd still have no audio during the time you were trying things with the D2v. But by the time you did the firmware install the amp could have come back out of protection.

Typically a D2v hardware problem severe enough to kill audio won't cure itself just because you do a firmware install. So I'm thinking it is more likely a timing thing. If it happens again, try powering everything off overnight and see if it is live again in the morning (i.e., without re-installing firmware).

Anyway, give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them walk you through trying to diagnose this. It may be necessary to uncable just about everything to minimize the possibility of ground loops.

While waiting to connect with them, start with the basics, which means rechecking all your cabling -- particularly speaker cabling -- to make sure everything is attached properly and that there's no chance of shorts. If you are using Trigger connections, make sure they are plugged in properly as well. Check all cables -- both ends.
--Bob
post #39051 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

There are lots of possibilities including amp problems, or a pretty severe ground loop. E.g., if the amp is shutting down to protect itself (perhaps due to an intermittent short in speaker wires), it might stay shut down long enough that you'd still have no audio during the time you were trying things with the D2v. But by the time you did the firmware install the amp could have come back out of protection.
Typically a D2v hardware problem severe enough to kill audio won't cure itself just because you do a firmware install. So I'm thinking it is more likely a timing thing. If it happens again, try powering everything off overnight and see if it is live again in the morning (i.e., without re-installing firmware).
Anyway, give Anthem Tech Support a call and let them walk you through trying to diagnose this. It may be necessary to uncable just about everything to minimize the possibility of ground loops.
While waiting to connect with them, start with the basics, which means rechecking all your cabling -- particularly speaker cabling -- to make sure everything is attached properly and that there's no chance of shorts. If you are using Trigger connections, make sure they are plugged in properly as well. Check all cables -- both ends.
--Bob

pretty sure it's not a ground loop - had one a couple of years ago, added an isolator to the cable input (& then found I had hot & neutral reversed)
amp is on and green light, so no overload/shorts

the odd thing is the soft crunch I get in the front speakers when navigating the gui on 2 different hdmi devices - haven't tried the Oppo 80 yet to see if it does it too
I haven't seen anyone else mention this, so it seems significant to me

haven't changed a thing hardware wise (except the unplgging/plugging of the hdmi cables when upgrading)

mark
post #39052 of 42717
Hi,

This is a copy of a support request I just sent to Anthem, reposted here for extra coverage smile.gif I skimmed the last 20-30 pages here and it looks like others have had the same issues, but I couldn't find a clear final solution, so here goes.

"""
I have an early-model D2v (serial 141xxx) which I just upgraded to firmware 3.09, and I have two reproducible issues.

1) If I switch source from where I have an Xbox360 connected, to a source which has no signal, and then back to the Xbox360, the picture gets a hot pink/purple hue.
If I then switch to a source with a signal and back to the Xbox360, the picture looks fine again.

2) When I have the Xbox360 source selected, then enter the D2v's Setup menu, then exit back out of the setup menu, I get a nasty sharp noise played repeatedly. This noise continues until I switch to another source (with or without signal), at which point the noise stops.

Both of these issues are 100% reproducible with my current setup, and I have not seen them with the old firmware.

Setup details:

D2v serial 141xxx, dated Aug 28, 2008
Xbox 360 running the latest update
Display: Panasonic PT-AE7000
All connections are by HDMI
Xbox360 is at HDMI input 3
Projector is at HDMI output 1
Color space: Have tested with both YPbPr 4:2:2 and Studio RGB set up in D2v and the projector
Color depth: 8 bit

Is there any other info you need from me to help resolve these issues?
"""
post #39053 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by oyvindmo View Post

Hi,
This is a copy of a support request I just sent to Anthem, reposted here for extra coverage smile.gif I skimmed the last 20-30 pages here and it looks like others have had the same issues, but I couldn't find a clear final solution, so here goes.
"""
I have an early-model D2v (serial 141xxx) which I just upgraded to firmware 3.09, and I have two reproducible issues.
1) If I switch source from where I have an Xbox360 connected, to a source which has no signal, and then back to the Xbox360, the picture gets a hot pink/purple hue.
If I then switch to a source with a signal and back to the Xbox360, the picture looks fine again.
2) When I have the Xbox360 source selected, then enter the D2v's Setup menu, then exit back out of the setup menu, I get a nasty sharp noise played repeatedly. This noise continues until I switch to another source (with or without signal), at which point the noise stops.
Both of these issues are 100% reproducible with my current setup, and I have not seen them with the old firmware.
Setup details:
D2v serial 141xxx, dated Aug 28, 2008
Xbox 360 running the latest update
Display: Panasonic PT-AE7000
All connections are by HDMI
Xbox360 is at HDMI input 3
Projector is at HDMI output 1
Color space: Have tested with both YPbPr 4:2:2 and Studio RGB set up in D2v and the projector
Color depth: 8 bit
Is there any other info you need from me to help resolve these issues?
"""

Good luck and keep us posted as I have just upgraded my last HDMI cable and have the older D2V also but still get the hot pink screen everytime I go into the set up menu of the D2v while on a specific input and still get a hot pink screen everytime I switch between my two satellite inputs. Could be the display but this is my second projector that does it and I am going to test a plasma display this weekend. Maybe a discount for the new HDMI board with 3D is in order to see if that eliminates the problems. smile.gif
post #39054 of 42717
I got a quick response from Anthem, suggesting I try 3.09c. I will do that tomorrow and let you (and them) know how it turns out.
post #39055 of 42717
Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks

Thanks
post #39056 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron View Post

Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks
Thanks

I fund the charts are almost impossible to read when they are posted this way. They are to small and any attempt to make them larger blurs the text etc.
Also there should be 3 lines on every graph. By default they are Red, Blue, Green
post #39057 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Good luck and keep us posted

I gave 3.09c a go, with no real luck:

1) The pink screen issue is the same.

2) The noise is gone, but now there is no sound at all, neither for the Xbox360 nor for the TV tuner (which are the two sources I'm using when testing now). The status says "No signal" for the HDMI sound for both sources.
post #39058 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron View Post

Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? Thanks
Thanks
They look good to me. How does it sound?
post #39059 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

I fund the charts are almost impossible to read when they are posted this way. They are to small and any attempt to make them larger blurs the text etc.
Also there should be 3 lines on every graph. By default they are Red, Blue, Green

Try this: Right Click on the image and Open Link in New Window. The image in the new window will be full size instead of the compressed image the forum shows in the post.
--Bob
post #39060 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron View Post

Can everyone help look over the charts below. Any suggestions or problem areas that I should be concern about? . . . .

Thanks

These look fine and should sound excellent as is. What's left is just tweaking. It looks like you've got good quality treble data Measured for all speakers up almost all the way. And since your speakers don't need a ton of correction in the lower frequencies, your setup could be a good candidate for raising Max EQ Frequency. I'd try raising it to 15KHz to get that extra octave and a half of correction in the higher frequencies. Do this in the Targets window (for both the Movie and Music columns), accept that change, re-Calculate, and re-Upload. No need to re-Measure.

Also the basic volume level of the solution is a bit low -- around 68dB. Before your next ARC Measurement run (no rush to do this), try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by about 5dB. Ideally you want the flat part of the Targets curves (black dashed lines) in the mid frequencies to be at about 75dB. Again, this is minor. You could leave it as is.

Your LF/RF speakers look to have excellent bass response. ARC has set a 60Hz Cutoff/Crossover for them, which means it is depending on quality output from them down to 30Hz. You could try experimenting by lowering that to 50Hz or even 40Hz to use more of the bass energy they can produce. Check to be sure the quality of the Calculated result still looks good across the entire frequency range -- i.e., the residual error between the black dashed Target curve and the green Calculated curve is small -- certainly no more than +/- 2dB. You may find that a compromise setting of the Cutoff for LF/RF and the raised value of Max EQ Frequency is necessary to get clean results across the frequency range. But since you don't have any PROBLEM that needs fixing in this current result, I'd lean towards leaving the Cutoff for LF/RF right where it is now.
--Bob
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