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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1304

post #39091 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

The D2 does not decode DTS -HD so it is not a problem. To hear the DTS-HD track the player must decode to LPCM and send that to the D2. There was never a problem with the LPCM stream. The problem has been fixed in the latest firmware for the D2v

So it is just a problem for the D2v since D2 uses LPCM, I believe is how I read your post never was a LPCM problem?
post #39092 of 42698
That's right, but it is also an assumption around here that the players don't have any DTS HD decoding errors in themselves. 

What you heard on the Rush disc is probably in the mix though. I seem to recall it is a very in your face sound.
Edited by AVfile - 12/8/12 at 11:31am
post #39093 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by icequeen View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

The D2 does not decode DTS -HD so it is not a problem. To hear the DTS-HD track the player must decode to LPCM and send that to the D2. There was never a problem with the LPCM stream. The problem has been fixed in the latest firmware for the D2v

So it is just a problem for the D2v since D2 uses LPCM, I believe is how I read your post never was a LPCM problem?

There was never an LPCM problem, and the Bitstream problem for the D2v has already been fixed in firmware.


If you are having speaker volume problems with your ARC setup, the first thing to do is make sure you haven't changed the Setup menu settings that ARC Uploaded. This can happen, for example, if you reloaded Saved User or Installer Settings after the ARC Upload, but without ever having saved the post-ARC stuff into them in the first place. The easiest way to fix that is to cable up your ARC computer, open your ARC results file, and re-Upload the solution. No need to re-Measure. Save User and Installer Settings afterwards to avoid this problem happening again.

Next make sure that your ARC solution is actually in use in the first place. Go into Setup > Source Setup for EACH Source and make sure that Room EQ is ON. In addition, if you have any Analog (stereo or 6-channel) Sources, make sure they are set to ANALOG-DSP. ARC can not function if the Source is set to ANALOG-DIRECT.

Next, make sure you don't have any "temporary" speaker volume adjustments screwing things up. These are the adjustments you make with the buttons on the remote. It is easy to forget you have these set. To reset ALL of the "temporary" settings in one go, get into Setup and:

1) Save User Settings
2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video, continue using the Front Panel display.
3) Reload Saved User Settings

Since the "temporary" settings are not saved, this resets them all.

Finally check your speaker levels with a calibration disc. I recommend you use the 5.1 LPCM test track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter (held pointed straight up at ARC Mic position #1) to check that your speakers and Sub are producing matching levels.

If after all the above the LPCM test is correct, then any problem in DTS-HD MA levels must either be in the mix on the disc or in the decoding in your Blu-ray player.
--Bob
post #39094 of 42698
And infact the problem was not the center channel being too loud, it was the left and right channel being too quiet........they were down by 3dB.

Cheers
post #39095 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

That's right, but it is also an assumption around here that the players don't have any DTS HD decoding errors in themselves. 
What you heard on the Rush disc is probably in the mix though. I seem to recall it is a very in your face sound.

Yes it is! Quite close and upfront in your face sound!
post #39096 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

There was never an LPCM problem, and the Bitstream problem for the D2v has already been fixed in firmware.

Finally check your speaker levels with a calibration disc. I recommend you use the 5.1 LPCM test track from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray. Use an SPL meter (held pointed straight up at ARC Mic position #1) to check that your speakers and Sub are producing matching levels.
If after all the above the LPCM test is correct, then any problem in DTS-HD MA levels must either be in the mix on the disc or in the decoding in your Blu-ray player.
--Bob

Thanks Bob, I will have to find that disc and do the tests! Sounds like a stocking stuffer to me! LOL BTW , like to get your thoughts on how those speakers measured for my tweeters and highs.I followed the steps in the target menu and posted them last night.
post #39097 of 42698

Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.

 

700

post #39098 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by icequeen View Post

Thanks Bob, I will have to find that disc and do the tests! Sounds like a stocking stuffer to me! LOL BTW , like to get your thoughts on how those speakers measured for my tweeters and highs.I followed the steps in the target menu and posted them last night.

There are no nasty problems in your high frequencies. The additional roll off for the 4 Surround speakers up there could be due to speaker pointing -- check vertical pointing for example -- but it is not excessive.

It looks to me like you've got quality high frequency data at least up to 15Khz, so yours could be a good candidate for raising Max EQ Frequency to 12 or 15KHz to get correction applied a little higher up.

The only thing I think you may want to do is try to raise the basic volume level of the solution, which is right now around 60dB. Before doing your next ARC Measurement pass, raise the Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level line about 6dB higher than where you have it now.
--Bob
post #39099 of 42698
I'm after some advice regarding the Darbee Darblet version 3, which I have been given recently with my projector purchase (JVCX75). On using the Darbee with my Anthem D2v software version 3.09, every time I use a video source (either Dune, Oppo 95) it tends to flash pink 3-4 times before it settles down to enable me to watch the content. I have removed the Darbee from the Anthem and plugged it between just the Oppo 95 and the TV and this seems to work OK with no flashing pink screens - any ideas on how I might rectify this problem with the Anthem? I have tried different HDMI cables but with no success. I know this has been mentioned previously on this thread and people don't seem to have any issues with the Darbee, your help would be very much appreciated.

Lesterjd
post #39100 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesterjd View Post

I'm after some advice regarding the Darbee Darblet version 3, which I have been given recently with my projector purchase (JVCX75). On using the Darbee with my Anthem D2v software version 3.09, every time I use a video source (either Dune, Oppo 95) it tends to flash pink 3-4 times before it settles down to enable me to watch the content. I have removed the Darbee from the Anthem and plugged it between just the Oppo 95 and the TV and this seems to work OK with no flashing pink screens - any ideas on how I might rectify this problem with the Anthem? I have tried different HDMI cables but with no success. I know this has been mentioned previously on this thread and people don't seem to have any issues with the Darbee, your help would be very much appreciated.
Lesterjd

Mine is on the output of the D2V to the Panny Projector - that way all sources go though the Darb.    No problems or a single flash!      I have the 3' HDMI out of the D2v - Darb - 35' HDMI to projector.    I do keep my D2v set to 1080P/60 or 24

post #39101 of 42698
Thanks for replying, I had it placed between the D2v and PJ but I still get the flashing, it's really annoying the D2v is also set to 1080p.
post #39102 of 42698
^ Try setting a specific output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.

Also try replacing the HDMI cables involved. Keep in mind that too short an HDMI cable can cause problems just like too long a cable.
--Bob
post #39103 of 42698
Hi Bob, I'm sure the settings are YCbCr 4:4:4 in all cases, I have also ordered a new HDMI cable so we'll see what that does in a few days time.
post #39104 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.


Great DUSMOKe! I will try the flatteening idea! Can I then just reload, after making adjustemnt in targets?

Love to know what you think about the 2 different arc scenarios i posted two days ago. ONe has subs on mid point of walls ie. front and left.

The other is is front left corner and right rear. I also moved the left and right front closer by about 8 inches and forward by 6-8 inches.

Can't wait to just be able to relax and Enjoy! Thank You
post #39105 of 42698
I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.

I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).

I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.

I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.

As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.

Specifically:

* Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?
* Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.

Anything I'm overlooking?

Thanks,
R
post #39106 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsinclair View Post

I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.
I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).
I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.
I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.
As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.
Specifically:
* Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?
* Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.
Anything I'm overlooking?
Thanks,
R

The balanced and single ended analog outputs are both usable at the same time.
If using ARC you should be selecting 1 as your sub selection even with 2 subs.
The Sub 2 balanced or single ended output is connected in parallel with Sub 1.
Try testing the single ended connection for output by switching from the balanced cable input into your Velodyne Sub.
You could also test by connecting the Buttkicker via the thruput LFE connection on the Velodyne to ensure the Buttkicker is working.
Also make sure the source you are using is not set to analog direct as no sub will be utilized
post #39107 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by icequeen View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Icequeen ...also try this for your subs to flateen out their low frequency response. Click on the Advanced Tab and select the "FLAT" setting for the subs.


Great DUSMOKe! I will try the flatteening idea! Can I then just reload, after making adjustemnt in targets?

Love to know what you think about the 2 different arc scenarios i posted two days ago. ONe has subs on mid point of walls ie. front and left.

The other is is front left corner and right rear. I also moved the left and right front closer by about 8 inches and forward by 6-8 inches.

Can't wait to just be able to relax and Enjoy! Thank You

 

1. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting

 

2. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.

 

3. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.

 

a).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.

 

b). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.

 

c).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.

 

Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.

 

You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!

 

PS

Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.

post #39108 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsinclair View Post

I have a question related to Subwoofer output on the d2v.
I've got a Velodyne DD-15 hooked up to the d2v's Sub 1 Out (Balanced).
I've just purchased a Buttkicker LFE system, and I'm attempting to hook it up. According to the manufacturer, the best way to hook it up is directly to the Sub Out on the AV processor.
I'd like to hook up the Buttkicker to the Sub 2 Out (Line Level) but I cannot seem to get it to work. The Buttkicker hookup isn't really that complex, it's essentially just like adding another powered subwoofer, but I cannot get it to engage.
As I'm troubleshooting, I wanted to rule out any configuration issues with the d2v.
Specifically:
* Does having a sub hooked up to the Balanced jack of Sub 1 somehow preclude or defeat the Line Level output of Sub 2? Can you not mix a Balanced Sub and a Line Level Sub on the two Sub Outs?
* Are there any settings in the d2v Menu that I need to change to tell the system that I have 2 subs hooked up? The only related setting I found is under"3, Speaker Config", Bass Management (for both Movie and Music) have a "Subs: 2 Subs" setting, which I have enabled. This hasn't seemed to make any difference.
Anything I'm overlooking?
Thanks,
R

The balanced and single ended analog outputs are both usable at the same time.
If using ARC you should be selecting 1 as your sub selection even with 2 subs.
The Sub 2 balanced or single ended output is connected in parallel with Sub 1.
Try testing the single ended connection for output by switching from the balanced cable input into your Velodyne Sub.
You could also test by connecting the Buttkicker via the thruput LFE connection on the Velodyne to ensure the Buttkicker is working.
Also make sure the source you are using is not set to analog direct as no sub will be utilized

The FOUR sub outputs of the D2v (RCA jacks 1 and 2, and XLR jacks 1 and 2) all send out the same signal UNLESS you have configured Ctr2/Sub2 to instead be a separate L/R output for Zone 2 (so you could use Balanced cable for a long run to the Zone 2 amp).

See Section 3.9 in the Manual and set Balanced Out to CTR2/SUB2.

The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. See if it has a Trigger setting you could use.

As stated, set 1 Subwoofer when using ARC even if you have more than one. This is necessary so that Subwoofer volume trim that ARC Uploads will be applied correctly.
--Bob
post #39109 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The FOUR sub outputs of the D2v (RCA jacks 1 and 2, and XLR jacks 1 and 2) all send out the same signal UNLESS you have configured Ctr2/Sub2 to instead be a separate L/R output for Zone 2 (so you could use Balanced cable for a long run to the Zone 2 amp).
See Section 3.9 in the Manual and set Balanced Out to CTR2/SUB2.
The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. See if it has a Trigger setting you could use.
As stated, set 1 Subwoofer when using ARC even if you have more than one. This is necessary so that Subwoofer volume trim that ARC Uploads will be applied correctly.
--Bob


"The RCA Sub outputs are 6dB quieter than the XLR outputs. You may not be playing enough bass volume to get the Buttkicker to come out of standby. "

Reason I suggested using the pass thru connection on the Velodyne to go to the Buttkicker amp
post #39110 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

1. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting

2. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.

3. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.

a).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.

b). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.

c).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.

Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.

You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!

PS
Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.

My opinion, but personally I prefer the other sub chart.
When comparing, the chart on the left which I like has a higher low end output below 50 hz..
The irregularities above 100 hz should not effect anything as it is above your sub cutoff.
There also is more output going much lower on the chart below 30 hz.

I would like to see that sub location setting with the advance setup set to flat as suggested by myself and dmusoke.

post #39111 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

My opinion, but personally I prefer the other sub chart.
When comparing, the chart on the left which I like has a higher low end output below 50 hz..
The irregularities above 100 hz should not effect anything as it is above your sub cutoff.
There also is more output going much lower on the chart below 30 hz.

I would like to see that sub location setting with the advance setup set to flat as suggested by myself and dmusoke.

 

I completely understand where you are coming from regarding the low end response. The reason behind my other choice was the FR of the sub was most extended on the high end where it'd be easier to get the full 120Hz LFE bandwidth that is defined by Dolby. The graph on the left has the 100Hz point 10dB or more below the 50Hz point. It will be hard for ARC to give a 120Hz cutoff with that response.

 

OTOH, the plot on the right, once 'flattened' in the Advanced setup menu, will look real pretty indeed and i bet will have great response down to 20Hz and below.

 

- David

 

PS

I should have addressed you by name but i felt awkward calling you 'thestewman' in my postbiggrin.gif!

post #39112 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

1. Simply re-load the the new ARC solution after changing to the flat setting

2. Post #39087 gives the best subwoofer frequency response, i.e its wide and deep with no obvious nulls due to room modes(Subs are at the middle points of front and left wall length). I hope the sub arrangement is aesthetically pleasing and has high WAF value.

3. Since you have two subs, i hope they play as one unit in unison. A way to ensure this is to make sure their lauched wavefronts are in phase with each other.

a).  First set the volume knobs of each sub to each output about 73dB from the listening position. When both subs play, the combined output should be about  75 - 77dB. Exact levels aren't important right now as ARC will compensate them later on.

b). Then set phase knob of both subs to zero degrees. Open ARC's Live Measure program and pick the subwoofer to generate the repetitive swept test tones.

c).  While watching the plots, adjust the phase knob of sub A from zero while observing the resultant FR plot. Leave Sub B at zero degrees. Now adjust Sub   A phase until you get the flattest and widest FR response from the real-time plots. Don't be suprised if this only happens when both Sub A & B phases are set to 0.

Once you believe you've had the best response, you might want to 'swap' subs and this time, leave Sub A at zero while adjusting phase knob of Sub B and see which configuration has the better response.

You have now phase-matched the subs with respect to one another and time to perform a new ARC measurement and call it a day ... for now!

PS
Actually, there's a final tweak you need to do where you phase-match the dual-sub-combo with the mains but this can be done later on after you've completed the above. Its where you'll get 90% of the benefit of dual subs in your system.

Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.
post #39113 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

I completely understand where you are coming from regarding the low end response. The reason behind my other choice was the FR of the sub was most extended on the high end where it'd be easier to get the full 120Hz LFE bandwidth that is defined by Dolby. The graph on the left has the 100Hz point 10dB or more below the 50Hz point. It will be hard for ARC to give a 120Hz cutoff with that response.

OTOH, the plot on the right, once 'flattened' in the Advanced setup menu, will look real pretty indeed and i bet will have great response down to 20Hz and below.

- David

PS
I should have addressed you by name but i felt awkward calling you 'thestewman' in my post:D !

Friends have been calling me Stewman for a long time. You are allowed. LOL
Or it's just Stew

I don't disagree at all with your statements after changing the default sub setting to Flat it may extend and flatten out the curve. He/she (Hmm ?) has the sub capability.
Did you notice in the chart I favored the sub cutoff was 80 hz not 120 hz ?

I favor working on positioning than relying on ARC alone.. My belief is that relying on ARC alone then leaves much to be desired playing anything but DVD or BluRay playback.

I listen a lot to audiophile HiRez and DSD downloads using the stereo analog direct format.
I do not want to pass the 192/24 PCM or DSD analog signal from an External DAC through another AD conversion stage in the D2v whichat that point I then am using as a stereo preamp.
Occasionally I will use Analog Digital to add my sub to a stereo signal. So ARC has no effect then either,

The sub results I get are from within the Anthem sub program perfect Bass and room positioning.

Stew
post #39114 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.

Suggest you follow dumsoke's instructions. He has it posted at the bottom of every page it posts.
He has carefully spelled out the easiest and a perfect way to set phasing

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19542630#post19542630
post #39115 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

Can this be done to phase balance the sub with FL and FR speakers even if you have one sub. I am having difficulty phase balancing one sub by listening for highest bass from FM pink noise.

Suggest you follow dumsoke's instructions. He has it posted at the bottom of every page it posts.
He has carefully spelled out the easiest and a perfect way to set phasing

How to phase match subwoofers to the mains speakers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19542630#post19542630

Thanks Stew ...

 

Actually for Paradigm, since you only has one sub, my technique will work great but i don't think you've utilized the pink noise technique correctly. Instead of listening to the maximum bass, i would listen for the minimum bass instead. I would do the following:

 

 

1.  Reverse the polarity of the left speaker by swapping its leads.

 

2.  Start playing your pink noise source into the left speaker and sub. You will want to disconnect all other speakers temporarily for this test.

 

3.  Go into Speaker Config ->Bass Management-Movie (or Music) -> Sub Phase.

 

4.  With the RS SPL meter fixed at your listening position(and having set it to SLOW speed and C-weighting), note the SPL reading when the phase is 0.

 

5.  Then start changing the phase in 5 degree and not the SPL reading. Continue on till you reach 180 degrees and look for the phase degree number that gives you the absolute minimum SPL reading. Basically, you'll have 36 phase angles to cycle through with their respective SPL readings.

 

6.  Pick the phase angle that gave the minimum SPL reading and set that as the angle for the Anthem unit. Don't be suprised if you get a range of phase angles that give equivalent minimum SPL numbers. This is common but record them anyways.

 

7.  Its instructive set the Sub Polarity to 180 degrees and repeat steps 3 thru 6 again to find out what the optimum phase angle would be. Again, don't be suprised to have a range of phase angles that give minimum SPL readings.

 

Hopefully, the angles an steps 6 and 7 would overlap somewhat (which would be ideal). Then pick the phase number in the middle of the overlap and set the Sub Polarity back to Normal.

 

If there's no overlap whatsoever, oh well, just set the Sub Polarity to Normal and use the phase number you got in step 6.

 

8.  Reverse the speaker leads to their normal positions(Black Wire on Black Terminal, Red Wire on Red Terminal). Also remember to re-connect the rest of your speaker systembiggrin.gif!

 

Don't forget this simple step as i forgot once to reverse the connections back to normal and couldn't understand why i was getting this 'phasey' sound from my system. It gave me headaches for a couple of hours as i thought i had done something wrong in my setup. So i went to check the integrity of the connections in my entire HT system ...only to find after a while that my speaker wires were reversed as indicated in step #1rolleyes.gif!

 

Best of luck,

Davidsmile.gif!

 

PS

Sorry for being so wordy, but since english ain't my first language, i often find myself maybe over-describing somethings. Bob Pariseau would simply state all the above in just 2 or 3 sentences tops! And this would include his deep tutorials about all thing audiobiggrin.gif!

post #39116 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Try setting a specific output format (e.g., YCbCr 4:4:4) instead of Auto.
Also try replacing the HDMI cables involved. Keep in mind that too short an HDMI cable can cause problems just like too long a cable.
--Bob
- - - We just returned from the annual AVS home theater cruise where the WIREWORLD president presented his products, and the one thing i came away with was that the shorter the HDMI cable, the better. Demo's followed, and there was a clear advantage to the shorter(under one meter) vs: longer runs. (more air, was the comment)
Bob, can you comment on this?
I've been gone for two years, but I remember your comments suggesting the too short premise.
Walt
post #39117 of 42698
AVM 50v 3D arrived today, but unfortunately, I won't be able to set it up until Friday or Saturday, so it gives me some time to gleen some knowledge from this fine forum! My setup is as follows:

AVM 50v 3D
Emotiva XPA-5
Paradigm Studio 100 v5
Paradigm Studio 690 v5
Paradigm Studio 20 v5
Paradigm Sub 15
Pioneer Elite 151 60" Plasma
Emotiva X-series speaker cables
Monoprice 16ga balanced XLR Interconnects
Monoprice HDMI cables

Sources include:
Xbox 360
Panasonic BD Player (BDP30, I think)
Apple TV (for lossless music and HD movies, mainly)

I'm hoping to upgrade to a Statement A5 after the first of the year (would actually like opinions on this, vs. my current XPA-5). Is the A5 a worthwhile upgrade? Or, will I even be able to tell a difference without extensive room treatments (which I plan to do in the spring, unless, of course the ancient Mayans are right)?

As far as setup, I plan on running ARC as soon as I can, but may take this opportunity to rearrange the room a bit, and re-orient the display, so it could be a couple days. Mainly, I'm looking for general info on setup... the AVM 50 manual is a bit daunting with all the options for video and audio processing, bass management, and room correction. I want to do this right the first time, so please, any learnings, info, tips or tricks are much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
post #39118 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by yacht422 View Post

- - - We just returned from the annual AVS home theater cruise where the WIREWORLD president presented his products, and the one thing i came away with was that the shorter the HDMI cable, the better. Demo's followed, and there was a clear advantage to the shorter(under one meter) vs: longer runs. (more air, was the comment)
Bob, can you comment on this?
I've been gone for two years, but I remember your comments suggesting the too short premise.
Walt

And the $3500.00 WireWorld power cords ?.
post #39119 of 42698
Regarding Aron's posting of ARC charts, Bob said
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Also the basic volume level of the solution is a bit low -- around 68dB. Before your next ARC Measurement run (no rush to do this), try raising Setup > Level Calibration > Test Level by about 5dB. Ideally you want the flat part of the Targets curves (black dashed lines) in the mid frequencies to be at about 75dB. Again, this is minor. You could leave it as is.

My charts look much the same, as far as the volume level. Is it possible to accomplish the same in my AVM50 ARC? Is the equivalent option Setup -> Speaker Calibration -> Noise Level?

- Mark
post #39120 of 42698
Quote:
Originally Posted by boyce89976 View Post

AVM 50v 3D arrived today, but unfortunately, I won't be able to set it up until Friday or Saturday, so it gives me some time to gleen some knowledge from this fine forum! My setup is as follows:
AVM 50v 3D
Emotiva XPA-5
Paradigm Studio 100 v5
Paradigm Studio 690 v5
Paradigm Studio 20 v5
Paradigm Sub 15
Pioneer Elite 151 60" Plasma
Emotiva X-series speaker cables
Monoprice 16ga balanced XLR Interconnects
Monoprice HDMI cables
Sources include:
Xbox 360
Panasonic BD Player (BDP30, I think)
Apple TV (for lossless music and HD movies, mainly)
I'm hoping to upgrade to a Statement A5 after the first of the year (would actually like opinions on this, vs. my current XPA-5). Is the A5 a worthwhile upgrade? Or, will I even be able to tell a difference without extensive room treatments (which I plan to do in the spring, unless, of course the ancient Mayans are right)?
As far as setup, I plan on running ARC as soon as I can, but may take this opportunity to rearrange the room a bit, and re-orient the display, so it could be a couple days. Mainly, I'm looking for general info on setup... the AVM 50 manual is a bit daunting with all the options for video and audio processing, bass management, and room correction. I want to do this right the first time, so please, any learnings, info, tips or tricks are much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

Read and follow the Anthem manual. Almost all the information you will need is printed there.
Anthem has tested and came up with what gives the correct and proper results.
If you have problems or questions then ask and lean on the AVS members here.
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