Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 133

ensmarcum,
If the noise you hear sounds like 60Hz hum, then the odds are you have a "ground loop". Electrical power -- usually wall power interference -- is travelling between your devices along the ground shields of the cables connecting them. Eventually it exits via a power plug -- usually the 3rd prong of some device with a 3-prong plug. Along the way it plays havoc with your electronics.

[NOTE: Some of the very first production D2's had a noise problem, but it's been a long time since anyone reported anything but total silence -- a very low noise floor -- from these.]

Do this first: Disconnect any cable TV or satellite TV feed line from your system and see if the noise goes away. These are the most common source of such problems, and if that's where the noise is coming from then there are relatively easy ways to fix it. The ground loop power is entering via the shield of that cable because the cable is not properly grounded at the point where it enters your house, or the cable shields are not properly connected to that grounding.

Another common source of ground interference is lamp dimmer switches. Turn all dimmers in the house completely off. If the noise goes away, turn them on one at a time until you find the offending switch.

If that doesn't fix the problem then do this: Disconnect ALL inputs from the D2. Leave the speaker outputs connected. See if the noise still exists. If it is gone, then re-connect inputs one by one until you find the problem device.

If the noise is still there, then you may have a ground loop between your D2 and the amp (including the amp in the subwoofer). Temporarily try a "cheater" plug -- a 3-prong to 2-prong plug adapter -- WITHOUT connecting the loose "ground" wire on the 2-prong side. You may also have to try both ways of inserting the resulting 2-prong plugs in the power outlet.

Also try running with just the subwoofer connected and then just the amp connected. You are looking for the minimum combo of hardware that generates the noise.

If you can't isolate the noise this way (which would be quite uncommon), you may need to work the problem with Anthem tech support just to make sure your D2 does not have an instance of the old noise problem.
--Bob

PLACIDMAN and OBIE_FL,
Thanks! Also, please double check that the Anthem really is receiving 480i or 480p and that the Oppo has not handled this simply by switching to 1080i automatically when playing DVD-Audio or SACD, even though the Oppo was SET to output 480i.
--Bob

I will double check this weekend as I've been out of town the last two weeks and only got to play with it for a brief time before leaving. I'm pretty certain it stayed in 480i but I will have to be sure and check that it wasn't downrezing the audio. I was hoping another Oppo 970 or 981 owner would chime in and verify my results. I should also reiterate that I have stayed at the 1.10 firmware on the D2 until things smooth out on that front.

Well I have been following this thread since April, knowing that one day I would
purchase a D2, which I happily did from my local dealer over Superbowl weekend.
Actually my wife suggested I purchase the D2 before our little Superbowl party.

Within one hour I was able to get the unit going, with no problems, Hdmi worked
without a hitch on my 79Avi, A1, and PS3...Thanks to this thread I had a good
overall understanding of the setup configuration...I do realize I still have alot of fine tuning still to do..
but out of the box the unit impressed the Superbowl crowd.

Until I used the D2 I really looked at a pre/amp/processor more as a switcher/
splitter more then anything else. This all changed with the D2 which truly does
improve both the audio and video.
Audio: The D2 did what was advertised, every source improved thru D2's d/a convertors..Sound was neutral, clean, more analog.

Video: The Gennum scaler has also been nothing short of amazing, improved, Dvd's, Hd-dvd's, BR, and HD broadcasts....

Still I have a few questions:

ZONE 2...I have Hdmi on main output to a projector , connected component cables,
to Zone 2 out, rca to Zone 2 audio out. Going to LCD in another room, able
to get video, but no audio. Need to confirm setting for ZONE 2...

5) Setup/presets
Hdmi settings for a1 and PS3 using Hdmi only ....

Hdmi repeater : no
Audio in: Dig Hdmi
Auto Dig: No??
Hdmi 6 ch map : Auto
Are these correct...??

7.) ADC/Audio Output
2ch Anlg DSP 44.1
6ch ANlg DSP 96..
Are these the optimum setting??

Thanks in advance for this forum and your help..

Bob

Zone 2 output can either be a duplicate of the processed Main output or it can be a "pass through" of any input. When used as a pass through, you have to have the same style of input connected as you are trying to use for output.

So to get the L/R audio out to Zone 2, you need L/R analog audio INPUT connected for the selected source device *UNLESS* you set Zone2 to "copy" the Main audio path.

If you know you always want Zone 2 to play the same stuff as the Main path you can set this "copying" by default in the Setup / Source Setup menu.

You can also turn this on and off on the fly using the Copy function from the remote.

Copying Main to Zone 2 like this is the only way to get digital audio input to go to the Zone 2 analog audio outputs.

If you want Zone 2 to play DIFFERENT stuff from the Main path, then hook up analog stereo audio inputs from each source device you might want to play through Zone 2 and turn OFF copying of Main to Zone 2. You will be able to select the input device for Main and Zone 2 separately. The Main path will use the audio input type and socket you specify. The Zone 2 path will pass through the analog stereo audio input associated with that input device.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Your audio input settings are fine for HDMI audio input.

The Auto Dig setting is used when you want the Anthem to automatically switch from a digital audio input to an analog audio input based on whether or not there is any signal on the digital audio input. This is necessary for some cable TV boxes that don't output digital audio when watching analog TV channels, and can also be useful if you want to use the same Anthem input for two different source devices -- one via digital and one via analog audio.

The mapping function should be left in its default setting unless you have some problem with some DVD-Audio disc playback.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

The ADC settings should be left in the factory default settings unless you are doing the funky recording to CD burners as described in the manual.
--Bob

what kinds of speaker wire is everyone using? And what amps are you using?

Greetings,

With the new Oppo firmware the unit does not output the high rez stream at 480i. It is outputting 6 channel at 48kHz. At 720p or 1080i it will output 6 channel 96kHz. There is no change from the previous version in this regard.

Sorry..

Regards,

I found this one quite interesting.


Hi,

Latest beta attached...

- more changes to input switching - too many to list, though latest ones address the PS3 and BDPS1. If connection problems with these sources remain, please find out if the cable being used can reliably carry 1080p *plus multichannel PCM audio* before reporting problem.

- video settings were sometimes lost when switching inputs - fixed

- "Cannot connect OKI boot loader" installation problem appears to be finally fixed, or at least it is with the dozens of computers available to try this version on (including Win 98)

- in the SMPTE test pattern (the colour bars), contrast bars have been added to the big white square but as this was a last minute addition, please ignore it as the levels do not appear to be correct

- if this is the first beta you are receiving, changes from v1.11a to v1.11d primarily addressed problems with 480i/1080i in and out and connection with some set top boxes

Best Regards,
Nick P., Technical Support

Ralph,
Thanks for checking. I had been under the impression that the prior Oppo software sent 2-channel at 96Khz at 480i.

6-channel at 48Khz is likely more useful to folks, but still -- Oppo can do better.

It would have been nifty if they'd done the pixel repetition stuff, but the odds it would work with more than a handful of AVRs is pretty slim. Auto switching to 1080i is a more likely solution.
--Bob

Roomraider,
Thanks for posting the update notes on 1.11e. This IS looking pretty interesting!

I wonder whether they've rolled any of this into manufacturing yet? Maybe a real release soon?

I also like the idea that they are looking at additonal ways to improve the built-in test patterns.

Man you couldn't pay me enough to sort out this video connectivity stuff with the current mess of source and display devices out there. I hope customers recognize the difference between companies that take it seriously and companies that only go after the low hanging fruit -- the easy stuff -- and leave other customers frustrated.
--Bob

Ralph - Thanks for checking up on this. I was kind of doubting myself as I was in a rush at the time and was just surprised to get multi-channel sound at all with 480i. I didn't even bother to check the audio resolution. I should have kept quiet until I had time to recheck it. At least it is better then the 79AVi where I don't get anything at 480i and it is a lot easier to change resolution on the Oppo. Sorry if I got anyone's hope up.

I also received 1.11e today. However it still does not output 1080i with my Directv H-10
set to native and all.

dick

OK, here's the update. After conversations with Nick from Anthem Tech support, I received and flashed the firmware update v1.11e. Yes e, not d. Evidently hot off the presses today. Update went great, and after it was done, the unit worked like a charm. It now sees my satellite STB at several resolutions via component, and inputs and outputs my DVD player at 480i. All switching no longer causes a loss of input signal. Basically, totally cured.

Well, finally a formal member of the D2 users group. I have completed the installation over the last week of my new D2 with the A5 amp, matched with an Arcam 137 DVD/CD player and HD-PVR. HDMI output is to a Sharp D92U 46" LCD.

I went for the Anthony Gallo 3.1 Reference Mains and Reference center and Surrounds. The audio and video is just delightful. For a sub, I went with a MJ Acoustics 200 which has both LFE and mains feed in to it. This allows me to use the sub on two channel, (set at 40 hz). and then when the LFE is being fed in, at 80 hz.

I have a fair amount of tuning to do and the store that supplied everything but the speakers will be in to do the ISF calibration next week.

I've had a bit of fun/frustration trying to get the Rogers HD-PVR to sync it's 1080i output to the D2 but for some reason, tonight, the PVR is sync'ing very nicely. It may have to do with the cold boot I did to the D2 as I re-ran some new Mains speaker wire tonight.

The competition for watching and listening to the HT has been something else with everyone in the house, (especially the wife), recording all their shows and then demanding time with the set. Oh, well, at least it all has found a nice home!

To split the CD and DVD signals from the Arcam DV137, I output DVD video and sound via the HDMI and for CD, ran RCA from the DV137 to the D2's CD analog input by-passing the D2's digital inputs. I guess I could do that with the multiple DVD selections but wonder if there is any difference in the route I took.

I am sure I will have lots of questions for the group as time goes on but do have one if I may. Should I run Coax for the audio from the DVD player and HD-PVR to the D2 and if so, what are the benefits versus the HDMI signal path?

Anyway, just wanted to let the group know there is one more user out there, (extremely pleased) with his D2.

Cheers

Bob

congrats and welcome to the club, I have have had my d2 for a couple of weeks so far and love it! bob,lev and others are very helpful here.


enjoy one of the best processors on the planet

bob

Remind me, are you running Component or HDMI from the H-10?

Do you have other 1080i sources and are any of them working?
--Bob

Good grief! How many Bobs do we have in here now?

The truth is out! It's not a Canadian conspiracy, it's a BOB conspiracy!
--Bob

Thanks Bob

Just wondering, is there a benefit to running coax for the audio from the DVD player and the HD-PVR to the D2 in addition to the audio being provided via the HDMI?

Cheers

Bob

I am running hdmi from H 10 to D2. The only thing I cannot do is watch sat tv at 1080i. I have the H10 set to native and all rresolutions. With these settings the Oppo 970 and my XA1 work fine and display at 1080i. If I want to watch tv at 1080i I have to set the D2 video our to 1280/ 720. Maybe I should change to component. Also since 1.11e there is more of a delay when changing inputs, sometimes 30 to 45 seconds.

Dick
update: Just tried component and same as hdmi. Scrambled tv picture at 1080i.

Hi Bob P.

Well, actually I am Canadian as well, (Mississauga, home of Anthem). I guess we may have to start using first letter of the originators last name, or for us slightly older gents, start using a handle of some sort

Cheers

Bob A.

From a quality point of view, no. The optical or coax digital audio from the PVR will be identical to the HDMI audio. The same will be true for the DVD player when playing CDs or standard DVDs. If your player plays DVD-Audio or SACD over HDMI that's an advantage that HDMI will have over the other connections.

HDMI digital audio from HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players will also be better than what you can get via optical or coax digital audio.

That said, if you want to run Zone 2 output from the Anthem you may also need to run regular, analog stereo audio from your sources to the Anthem. You'll need to do this if you want Zone 2 to play audio from a different input than what you select for the Main path.

And some HDMI devices will introduce an extra handshake delay to set up audio after setting up video. This can be a nuisance when changing TV channels (for devices like your PVR) when the channel change also changes video resolutions -- and thus triggers a new handshake. To avoid this extra delay to start audio after the video starts, run optical or coax digital audio to the Anthem and use that for audio instead of the audio on the HDMI cable. Set up that way, audio may even begin slightly before the video gets going.
--Bob

Thanks for the advice Bob.

Yes, I have seen the audio take a little longer or not shake through correctly on the HDMI from the HD-PVR. I will run the coax as you suggest.

I have not seen a problem with the DVD player so will stay with the HDMI for now.

Cheers and thanks

Bob A

Hello ..

Note sure if this is a problem, but hear it goes..

I calibrated my colours on my sony SXRD 55" 1080p rear projection with OPPO DV-970HD (using colour space ycb4:4:4).. I confirmed this was correct with Avia colour decoder check with green filter (RGB setting was not correct)..

Anyway, I set up colours using spydertvpro, and all went well..

Then..

Using same Dvd player going into D2, with same settings, I found a problem.. Colour space was wrong!! RGB was correct thru D2.. Found this strange since I have D2 set to output (HDTV colour space, and ycb4:4:4 output), same as oppo was when going direct into t.v.

I have 3 other sources that are HD, and all had same colour space problem.. I had to set D2 to SDTV colour space output to be correct.. My other sources are PS3, Snazzio Net cinema HD, and Toshiba HD-DVD A2 player..


By setting the D2 to SDTV setting (to counter this effect), will this degrade my rich colours?? or should I set the output of D2 to RGB and leave the colour space to HDTV??



-chris

Halcro costs TWICE what the D2 costs and I can't remember
if it even has any Video Processing.

A BIG OUCH is all I can say. I would be asking for my MONEY
back if I owned one of them.

This is complicated.

The default color translation for HDTV resolutions and SDTV resolutions is different. The two display standards use slightly different values for the primary colors.

This becomes a problem when converting between YCbCr and RGB (either way) because you need to know which math to use. The math for RGB and Extended RGB is ALSO different. Even if you send YCbCr to a TV, it likely is doing conversion to RGB internally prior to lighting up the pixels.

If you end up using the wrong math, the usual symptom is green "push" or "depression" depending on which way you got it wrong. And if you don't watch out you can make the error TWICE and believe you've fixed the problem when in fact you have only masked it (leaving more subtle problems).

Usually what you want for connection to an HDTV-capable TV is to set an HDTV output resolution and set the connection to use HDTV color space math. For an HDMI to HDMI connection, the data format for the connection would normally be YCbCr 4:4:4. For an HDMI to DVI connection, the data format for the connection would normally be RGB (not Extended RGB).

But consider what happens with an up-scaling standard DVD player. The data on the DVD disc has been captured in the SDTV color space. But if you set the DVD player to send out an HDTV resolution should it use that SDTV color space or convert it to the HDTV color space? The answer is, it should convert it, but not all upscaling players do this, or do it without introducing other problems.

And because of that some TVs have their own settings to force the TV to expect a certain color space (and even data format) instead of just assuming that HDTV resolutions will be using HDTV color space. And those settings in the TV may vary according to the type of cabling and the incoming data format.

So to sort out your problem we'll need to dig into the ENTIRE CHAIN of settings you are using in the Oppo, in the D2 for input, in the D2 for output, and in your SXRD TV. And you need to understand that the assumptions that are being made by each device will change depending upon whether the video signal is 480i/480p (SDTV resolution) or 720p/1080i (HDTV resolution). And if the resolution is NOT one of the standard resolutions the assumptions may be wrong.

Finally, since the devices are trying to do some of this stuff automatically for you, the choices made by the devices may vary according to which devices are connected. Thus you can have the type of confusing situation you describe where you think you have your TV set up correctly due to testing with a directly connected Oppo only to find that some other setting works better with the D2 in the middle.

The fact that you find D2 video output of RGB or SDTV color space better for your TV is suspicious. I suspect that in the course of setting things up for the directly connected Oppo you made some choices in the SXRD that are incorrect but are masked by related settings in the Oppo.

I haven't used an SXRD so I'm not sure I can help. And indeed the combinations are complex enough that there might even be a bug in the D2 that you have stumbled across.

But the thing to do here is to set your TV to best match the imagery produced by the D2's own INTERNAL test charts. And then adjust the D2 input settings and your source device settings as necessary to make source imagery work correctly through the D2.

You might need to start over with factory default settings in the SXRD and the D2 to eliminate anything unusual you set based on the earlier Oppo direct-connect experiments.
--Bob

That doesn't sound good. You've probably tried all the simple stuff already, but just to be sure, have you tried moving the HDMI cable from the output of, say, the Oppo to the output of the H10 and then seeing if you can get H10 input at 1080i through the D2 HDMI input you are currently using for the Oppo? That would eliminate the D2 HDMI input you are currently using for the H10, and also the cable running to it, as potential contributors to the problem.

But my guess is your H10 just happens to be a particularly nasty case. And of course you aren't going to get any help from DirecTV. Keep pluggin' with Nick.
--Bob

Well said. In the league of the "upgradable" pre/pro there is only a few that really deliver. In my opinion Anthem is at the top the list.

On but Alain, the Halcro takes everything to another level. It's just so much more musical than the D1\\2. Why settle for mid-fi surround when you can have 2-channel bliss for only $10k?
What I find stupefying about some of the people who buy these pieces is that their patience seems unending regarding promised upgrades and small featuresets for a $10k piece of gear but when it comes to a $500 HD DVD player, slow load times are unacceptable.
BTW, the Anthem has been characterized as "highly flawed" up there.
What a joke.
To some the D1\\2 is an unbelieveably expensive piece of gear, to me it is one of the best if not the best, AV buying decisions I've ever made.
To me, a pre/pro on the level of the D1\\2 is the most difficult piece of AV gear to do right. Many good companies have tried and failed.
It really is a testament to the staff at Anthem that they have succeeded so well on so many different levels.

Well, I joined the Oppo 970 club today. Thanks for the setup tips in the last few pages. So far, so good. It's nice to retire my analog multichannel connections.

Now an Anthem question: how hard would it be for Anthem to take an unprocessed 1080p component signal and output it over HDMI? I'm thinking Xbox360 here... As far as I can tell, the only way to get a native 1080p signal from the 360 through the AVM-50 is to use unprocessed component as the output-- but in my case (as I'm sure exists with many others), that would require running an additional cable to the display device.

Is the unit capable (in the future or whatnot) of transcoding that analog 1080p signal to digital 1080p output through HDMI? I'd greatly prefer to run a single HDMI cable to my PJ and TV.