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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1327

post #39781 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.

It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.
The key element is determining if this is a null and cancellation is occurring due to room nodes. PBK or other forms of EQ will not address this. Trying to raise that dip by applying more energy to that frequency band will just stress the amp as Bob pointed out. The cancellation will continue to exist. In addition, you will find that the bass level outside of the listening /measurement area where the null is reduced or eliminated, will be excessive and perhaps overpowering, extending into other parts of the house.
Moving the sub and listening/measuring to test this is the only way to quickly determine this.
post #39782 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by jo5507 View Post

The cancellation will continue to exist. In addition, you will find that the bass level outside of the listening /measurement area where the null is reduced or eliminated, will be excessive and perhaps overpowering, extending into other parts of the house.
Moving the sub and listening/measuring to test this is the only way to quickly determine this.

Agreed!
post #39783 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ No word here. Not even that there is a confirmed problem.
--Bob

Funny must be not too many people have up graded. I still have to dual boot and arc is the only offender.

Regards
post #39784 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shayne2 View Post


I was thinking of installing a windows 7 vm in windows 8 and running arc thru vm just as a test if it is usb-com interface or the OS itself. Curious if it even possible to interface that way.

Regards

Confirm it locks up win 8 hard so no virtual machine down grade (and set exe to comp mode produces 8's results) ..... that was a no go for compatibility. It is a strange Canadian magic app. Plz a win 8 version.

Best Regards

Edit: If it comes down to a mic I am still upgrading
Edited by Shayne2 - 1/18/13 at 7:31pm
post #39785 of 42686
I just upgraded amps on my mains to Anthem M1s, twice the power, should I redo ARC?
post #39786 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.

It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.
This is really for paradigm25,
70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.
If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.
Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft
post #39787 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by tranle View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Once the PBK  handles the null at 70Hz or so, then ARC will see a smooth sub response from 20Hz to 300Hz and then raise the sub cutoffs to the 120Hz max.

It will also change the cutoffs of the mains and surrounds in light of the extended load the sub is now handling.
This is really for paradigm25,
70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.
If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.
Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft

Well put Tranle  ...

post #39788 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by tranle View Post

This is really for paradigm25,
70hz == 16ft sound wave length == 8ft 1/2 wave length.
If you happen to have a room with multiple of that length than you have to put some sound treatment which could be some furniture in the right places.
Also the thing that have worked best for me to find a place where the sub is not at the same distance from the room boundaries (floor and side walls) like 2ft, 3ft, 4ft

I find you can key in the paradigm servo 15 with a subduded and it is not a boom box it is the way it should be. I have used the spl for distance.

Regards
post #39789 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

I just upgraded amps on my mains to Anthem M1s, twice the power, should I redo ARC?
Sure. The gains may vary somewhat from what you had before which will affect the volume trims. There may be more subtle, frequency related response differences as well. Might as well give ARC a chance to work with the correct speaker output, even though the changes may be minimal.
--Bob
post #39790 of 42686
Thanks Bob
post #39791 of 42686
The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.

I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.

(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.

If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.

(The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)

(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.

Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?

Many thanks in advance for your responses.
post #39792 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.

I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.

(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.

If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.

(The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)

(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.

Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?

Many thanks in advance for your responses.

I have experience with both. And the short version is , that audessey sets at Big fingerprint at the sound. And ARC dosent. The dealbreaker is that audessey is take it or leave it. In ARC you Can set a max frekvens for corretion.
post #39793 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.

I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.

(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.

If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.

(The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)

(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.

Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?

Many thanks in advance for your responses.

Tell us a bit more. What will be the majority of the use ? Home Theater ? Music,
Your Music sources?
You said nothing about multi channell speakers.
post #39794 of 42686
Thank you guys for all of the support and info you all have provided. It's just unbelievable support.

Just to update; I am trying to get the AS Eq1, and if I can get that then I will try to see how much it helps, and if it does not then I will get PBK. I do not think I need to apply both, correct me if I am wrong.

As many have said to try to move the sub; that is just not possible, so I will have to depend on EQ or else at this point. So I will be back in few days if I get my AS EQ1.

Thanks.
Edited by paradigm25 - 1/19/13 at 5:40pm
post #39795 of 42686
Hi all. I have a compatibility problem, I think, between a Panny BD85K blu-ray and an Anthem D2 I just picked up. Prior rig was AVM20, so I ran HDMI to the TV directly. Now I want to use the BD player through the D2, but when I switch to that input, I can see the BD menu screen for about 1/2 second, then it goes blank. Same thing using different HDMI cables.

I THINK I'm running 1.33 on the D2, but not positive (how do I determine that?).

Is this a fixable situation?

Thanks.
post #39796 of 42686
You can check the firmware version by pressing the status button on the front panel or remote, you need to cycle through the various status screens to get there, it also shows when you first power up First things first do you get the on screen menus? Have you set the subject input to the desired resolution?
post #39797 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v.

(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.

If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.

(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.

Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Tell us a bit more. What will be the majority of the use ? Home Theater ? Music,
Your Music sources?
You said nothing about multi channell speakers.


MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.

My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.

Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC

If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.

MANY THANKS for all your help and advice
Edited by Emosewa09 - 1/19/13 at 9:23am
post #39798 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

You can check the firmware version by pressing the status button on the front panel or remote, you need to cycle through the various status screens to get there, it also shows when you first power up First things first do you get the on screen menus? Have you set the subject input to the desired resolution?

Thanks. Confirmed v1.33 on the D2.

I can get any other outputs from the D2 (on-screen menus and HDMI input from the FIOS cable box) without any problems. My NAD DVD via component>HDMI also works. All connections from the panny BD85K blu-ray were to be HDMI-in, to HDMI out for the BD player, but that's the one that doesn't appear correctly on the screen.

Thanks..
Edited by bigdaddy999 - 1/19/13 at 9:38am
post #39799 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post


MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.

My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.

Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC

If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.

MANY THANKS for all your help and advice

Have you outgrown the HDMI inputs on the Lexicon? Are there some features you are currently lacking? If not, why retire it? The Anthems also have an ancient user interface, with much more annoyances if you ask me.

I used to have an RV-8 (like an MC-8 + amp) and miss Logic7 sometimes, but that was without HD audio so the 50v was a real upgrade. Music sounded much better even before I turned on ARC! However I didn't have a smart sub with any EQ and most of the improvement is in the bass. Given that you are much better equipped in the sub department with EQ and have planar speakers you might not want ARC at all.

My main music system is totally separate so I did not bother with the D2v, but in your case I think you would benefit from the tweaks. The upsampling usually makes things sound a bit sweeter, but can depend on a person's preference and the source material (reason it is selectable on some Cary players). If you're going to only have one preamp in the house might as well get the best, at your level. I would guess that you will be making a sideways step, rather than a clear upgrade, but I am assuming the MC12HD is much better than the MC8. Maybe Dr Hankz will comment.
Edited by AVfile - 1/19/13 at 1:49pm
post #39800 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by wierzbowski View Post

I have searched this thread, and read a lot of posts, but didn't see any discussion of my specific issue. If I overlooked it, my apologies.

I just updated my 50v to firmware version 3.09 (public release, not a beta/test version). Afterwards, DTS-HD MA and DTS-HD HR bitstreams no longer produce any audio output. I tried multiple discs in multiple players (Oppo BDP-80 and Toshiba HD-A35). The processor is detecting the correct bitstream format and displays it on front panel and the OSD. Lossy DTS works fine, as does Dolby TrueHD, DD+, and DD. Having the player decode the HD bitstream and send LPCM works fine also.

I have checked and double-checked my settings (which were successfully reloaded after the firmware upgrade), and I don't see anything amiss.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks!

W

Incidentally, Anthem recommended updating to firmware version 3.09c and after doing so my DTS-HD bitstream problem was fixed.

W
post #39801 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post


MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.

My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.

Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC

If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.

MANY THANKS for all your help and advice

I struggled with the same question and ended up getting the 50v. The extra $2500 wasn't worth it to me to get the upsampling since I knew I would be going to some type of Analog Direct scenario through a music server solution (testing Pure Music at the moment) and most of them will upsample. Pure Music has 64bit floating something-or-other, with upsampling to 192khz. I didn't see the need to upsample HDMI since thats the only other input type I use.
Edited by boyce89976 - 1/19/13 at 5:22pm
post #39802 of 42686
Bob:

I tried to Teach the Menu command from my D2v to Harmony 900, but it would just not Learn that command, that way I can move the D2v to another location.

Can Harmony 900 be used to go in to Menu of D2v.

Thanks.
post #39803 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

Bob:

I tried to Teach the Menu command from my D2v to Harmony 900, but it would just not Learn that command, that way I can move the D2v to another location.

Can Harmony 900 be used to go in to Menu of D2v.

Thanks.

That's likely because that command is already in the Harmony definition database entry for the D2v. It's just not called Menu. It's called Sub/LFE, which is what that button does if you press and release it rather than press and hold it to bring up the on-screen Setup menu.

Use Harmony's pre-recorded definition for the Sub/LFE button as that one is specially coded to do something different when you press and hold.

You'll also find the numerical digits are in their definition using the names for the special functions they do other than just being digits. So the 9 button is in there as a pre-defined code. It just happens to be named ToneBypass instead of 9.
--Bob
post #39804 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

The great thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. The bad thing about AVS is how comprehensive the discussions are. So, when someone like me is considering buying one of these products, it is next to impossible to plough through 1,327 pages. So, with an apology, I will post two basic questions. I assume they have been covered, but a search of this thread did not yield any clear results.

I am seriously considering a purchase of either the AVM 50v or the D2v. My current system includes Magnepan 20.1s, a Lexicon MC12HD, and a Linn LP-12, to name a few components. The Anthem would replace the now ancient Lexicon.

(1) I understand that the price difference between the two anthem units is $2,500. But the units are nearly identical -- the only differences are 24/192 upsampling on all channels with any input on the D2v, but I'm not certain what that means. If the 50v doesn't do that, what does it do, and is the difference on the D2v audible? The D2v has premium ADCs and DACs, but again, I wonder if the difference is actually audible. And the D2v has premium parts in analog audio sections. Maybe that difference would be audible if playing LPs using the direct mode, but I wonder.

If any of the experts who have considerable experience with both units can comment, I would greatly appreciate it.

(The other difference is that the cheaper 50v has a silver face plate, which i prefer, but that option is not available on the more expensive D2v.)

(2) I also looked at other manufacturers and other pre-pros with the latest and greatest version of Audyssey. My first assumption was that Audyssey is probably superior. But there is a thread that covers that question, and my assumption may be wrong? I do have two Martin Logan subwoofers, and Audyssey specifically can address two subs, but ARC does not. But in my case it may not matter, as i have two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the two subs. I assume I could continue to use those units, and would EQ the subs first with the Velodyne units, and then use ARC for the whole system.

Anyway, for those who have used or heard both the top of the line Audyssey and the ARC, which do you perfer, and why?

Many thanks in advance for your responses.

Yes, you can handle your two subs as planned: SMS-1 setup first and then your ARC Measurement run with both subs powered.

The thing you need to know about the D2v is that MOST of the audio differences are in the design and layout of the analog audio board and the selection of components. These differences do not really show up as feature differences.

The D2v is just a more "exotic" analog audio circuit design.

We've had a fair number of people who've posted here comparing the original AVM 50 vs. the original D2, and the newer AVM 50v vs. the newer D2v. Some decided to go with the AVM unit purely to save the money -- perhaps to apply to other portions of their system. The AVM models are no slouch for audio, and so this is not surprising.

But as best I can recall, every such case -- even the ones who ended up choosing the AVM -- agreed the D2 and D2v audio was superior. Enough so that they could actually hear the improvement in their own equipment setup and listening room.

Keep in mind this is not a comparison that's trivial to do. You have to have each unit long enough to set up ARC for both for example. But there are some folks posting here who've done that and the consensus really is that the D2v sounds better.

But reaching for that extra step up in audio is spendy.

My recommendation continues to be that if you can afford the D2v that's the way to go. You won't regret it now, or when you upgrade other portions of your system down the road. But if the price is a stretch for you, get the AVM 50v and be happy. You've got one heck of a good sounding pre-amp processor.

NOTE: The VIDEO solution is identical in the AVM 50v and D2v. The difference between them is audio -- and the silver face plate available for the AVM 50v vs. the rack-mount wing ears available for the D2v.
--Bob
post #39805 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

That's likely because that command is already in the Harmony definition database entry for the D2v. It's just not called Menu. It's called Sub/LFE, which is what that button does if you press and release it rather than press and hold it to bring up the on-screen Setup menu.

Use Harmony's pre-recorded definition for the Sub/LFE button as that one is specially coded to do something different when you press and hold.

You'll also find the numerical digits are in their definition using the names for the special functions they do other than just being digits. So the 9 button is in there as a pre-defined code. It just happens to be named ToneBypass instead of 9.
--Bob

Thanks. What will we do without you.
post #39806 of 42686
Hello. I need some help with what I am hoping is a D2 configuration issue. I bought this unit off Audiogon and the audio is fine, but I'm having issues with high def video.

Equipment::
D2
Fios cable box (HDMI to D2)
Panasonic Blu-ray BD85K (HDMI to D2 and/or HDMI plus optical for audio - same difference)
NAD DVD (component to D2 plus coax-digital audio) - this works fine, I think
TV: Sony XBR9 (fed by single HDMI from the D2) - full hd 16x9 box - 1080i&p capable


The D2 seems to have problems outputting an HDMI high def image of any kind. And, the image I do get off the FIOS box is letter-box shaped, but stretched, almost like it's for a different TV, full width image, but narrow and non-HD (black bars top/bottom). Fooling with the Sony "width" doesn't change anything, as fundamentally I'm not getting HD. Info on the TV shows a 480i SD image being sent from the D2.

Sometimes, I get the message "Need HDCP Monitor" and the D2 just loops in startup - flashes the image, or a blue screen, and sometimes a full-screen of magenta color. Restarting or sometimes switching inputs changes that. HDMI Video can drop out after a while, with the message "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor". If I have the main video setting at 1920/1080p/60 in configuration and then restart the D2 with the cable box on, it keeps flashing the starting up message and then goes back to DolbyD like it should (based on the channel selected).

I'm using Video settings as follows:
D2: HDMI preferred, and get same results whether Video settings are on "Auto" or not. I can get a stretched image at 720p type settings, but nothing for "1080" or 1920/1080 i or P. Just blank screen, not even the setup screen will appear on this latter setting.

HDMI cables are either 6 or 10', and are from Monoprice (Redmere) and/or other brands of HDMI that I've picked up, none of them junk, and all of them work in other applications - just not with this D2.

I had an Anthem AVM20, so know my way around many of the configuration options of these things, but the D2 of course has more. I tried power cycling the D2 (switch in back), I've swapped HDMI cables, but nothing I can do gets me better than 720p out of the D2, and for the most part, just 480i.

I'm not happy. I could live with the BD player going straight to the TV if need be (have read panny's have issues), but obviously, I don't want to lose HD out of the FIOS box because of the D2.

Sound and ARC are working fine.

Any suggestions? Is this a configuration problem? Or is this likely a D2 problem?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE!
post #39807 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.

My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.

Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC

If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.

MANY THANKS for all your help and advice

 

A more recent and ecellent review of the AVM50v is right here http://www.soundstagexperience.com/index.php/equipment-menu/388-anthem-avm50v-3d-audio-video-processor . Though i had a 50v and now have the D2v, the difference between them was about $1500 and was affordable to me. But if it was $2500, i wouldn't have been able to justify it. The 50v sounded excellent but i wanted the D2v ....just to be in the club?


Edited by dmusoke - 1/19/13 at 8:13pm
post #39808 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

Hello. I need some help with what I am hoping is a D2 configuration issue. I bought this unit off Audiogon and the audio is fine, but I'm having issues with high def video.

Equipment::
D2
Fios cable box (HDMI to D2)
Panasonic Blu-ray BD85K (HDMI to D2 and/or HDMI plus optical for audio - same difference)
NAD DVD (component to D2 plus coax-digital audio) - this works fine, I think
TV: Sony XBR9 (fed by single HDMI from the D2) - full hd 16x9 box - 1080i&p capable


The D2 seems to have problems outputting an HDMI high def image of any kind. And, the image I do get off the FIOS box is letter-box shaped, but stretched, almost like it's for a different TV, full width image, but narrow and non-HD (black bars top/bottom). Fooling with the Sony "width" doesn't change anything, as fundamentally I'm not getting HD. Info on the TV shows a 480i SD image being sent from the D2.

Sometimes, I get the message "Need HDCP Monitor" and the D2 just loops in startup - flashes the image, or a blue screen, and sometimes a full-screen of magenta color. Restarting or sometimes switching inputs changes that. HDMI Video can drop out after a while, with the message "HDMI Video Muted Need HDCP Monitor". If I have the main video setting at 1920/1080p/60 in configuration and then restart the D2 with the cable box on, it keeps flashing the starting up message and then goes back to DolbyD like it should (based on the channel selected).

I'm using Video settings as follows:
D2: HDMI preferred, and get same results whether Video settings are on "Auto" or not. I can get a stretched image at 720p type settings, but nothing for "1080" or 1920/1080 i or P. Just blank screen, not even the setup screen will appear on this latter setting.

HDMI cables are either 6 or 10', and are from Monoprice (Redmere) and/or other brands of HDMI that I've picked up, none of them junk, and all of them work in other applications - just not with this D2.

I had an Anthem AVM20, so know my way around many of the configuration options of these things, but the D2 of course has more. I tried power cycling the D2 (switch in back), I've swapped HDMI cables, but nothing I can do gets me better than 720p out of the D2, and for the most part, just 480i.

I'm not happy. I could live with the BD player going straight to the TV if need be (have read panny's have issues), but obviously, I don't want to lose HD out of the FIOS box because of the D2.

Sound and ARC are working fine.

Any suggestions? Is this a configuration problem? Or is this likely a D2 problem?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE!

To Diagnose video problems, start by using the built-in video graphics generated by the D2. These are independent of any Source Device.

These would be the Setup menu itself, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). The Video Source Adjust menu includes test patterns which you can use to confirm the video output to your TV.

So select an input Source in the D2 that has no video coming in (nothing connected or Source Device powered OFF), and see whether you can get stable video to your display at any HD output resolution using the Video Source Adjust menu test patterns. If not, go into Setup > Video Configuration and work through the possibilities.

What you are reporting sounds like HDMI cabling problems, but it's unclear whether they are happening on the input side or the output side. This test will help you check that the output side is working.

Since you bought a used unit, you would be well advised to start fresh by going into Setup and Reloading Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the D2.

Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction. Make sure the HDMI input you are using on your TV is intended for connection to a DVD Player or Set Top Box, as opposed to connection to a computer.

Also keep in mind that changes you make in Setup > Video Out Configuration do not take effect immediately. You need to exit the menu and CONFIRM you really want to make these latest changes on the way out. I.e., use the Arrow buttons to change the No to Yes and Select the Yes.



If you can get the video output side working solidly as evidenced by the D2's own graphics, then any continuing problem you have when trying to use a Source Device must be on the Input side. The most likely is an HDMI cabling problem.
--Bob
post #39809 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post


MANY THANKS for your help. Music half the time, and most of that is two channel stereo. Mostly jazz with some classical. The Lexicon does a good job with that using L7 Music. Music sources are LPs, SACDs and CDs. For the LPs use a Linn Sondek LP12 with MC cartridge and Linn phono preamp. The other half of the time I watch TV, I assume most of that is 5.1, and films on Blu-Ray.

My Multichannel system consists of 9 speakers. Fronts are Magnepan 20.1; center and sides are Magnepan; rears are JSE Model 2. Two Martin Logan subs. So that would be 7.1. Main amp is a Theta Dreadnaught. Replacing a Lexicon MC12HD pre-pro processor. 65" Panasonic 3D Plasma and a JVC projector with 110" screen.

Again, would like to have your opinions as to whether I'll hear an audible difference if I get the D2v, and whether ARC is as good as Audyssey. Would use ARC with two Velodyne Digital Drive SMS-1 units for the subs, presuming Velodyne EQ first then ARC

If you have any other recommendations for pre-pros for a surround system instead of Anthem, that would be great info as well. Was looking at the usual choices -- the top of the line from Marantz, Onkyo, Denon, etc. They all include the top of the line of Audyssey. Anthem appears to be a step up over all of them.

MANY THANKS for all your help and advice

The answer is rather easy with the level of audio equipment and the very sweet sounding speakers and analog audio sources. Buy the D2v. You can connect your phono-amp to the 2 channel input and
run Analog direct, The D2v will have no effect on your analog sources and only act as the analog level control. It will be beautiful.
post #39810 of 42686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

To Diagnose video problems, start by using the built-in video graphics generated by the D2. These are independent of any Source Device.

These would be the Setup menu itself, and also the Video Source Adjust menu (press and hold the "7" button). The Video Source Adjust menu includes test patterns which you can use to confirm the video output to your TV.

So select an input Source in the D2 that has no video coming in (nothing connected or Source Device powered OFF), and see whether you can get stable video to your display at any HD output resolution using the Video Source Adjust menu test patterns. If not, go into Setup > Video Configuration and work through the possibilities.

What you are reporting sounds like HDMI cabling problems, but it's unclear whether they are happening on the input side or the output side. This test will help you check that the output side is working.

Since you bought a used unit, you would be well advised to start fresh by going into Setup and Reloading Factory Defaults. Then power cycle the D2.

Make sure your HDMI plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight) tugging them in any direction. Make sure the HDMI input you are using on your TV is intended for connection to a DVD Player or Set Top Box, as opposed to connection to a computer.

Also keep in mind that changes you make in Setup > Video Out Configuration do not take effect immediately. You need to exit the menu and CONFIRM you really want to make these latest changes on the way out. I.e., use the Arrow buttons to change the No to Yes and Select the Yes.



If you can get the video output side working solidly as evidenced by the D2's own graphics, then any continuing problem you have when trying to use a Source Device must be on the Input side. The most likely is an HDMI cabling problem.
--Bob

Thanks, Bob. Taking your comments point by point:

I did a factory reset when I got the unit, as you suggested.

The input on the TV is the main input for HDMI, and I've been using it with no issues.

I did mange to get into the OSD menu and when there WAS a signal, I could get into the menus to see the tests. the INFO screen was of most interest (showing input resolution and output resolution of the D2) on any given input, so thanks for showing me that.

I did a couple of things that improved the situation.

1) I had the FIOS HDMI going into SAT1, and moved it to TV1. No idea if there's something funky in the handling of Sat 1
2) I swapped out a Redmere (directional) HDMI cable from the FIOS box to the D2, and from the D2 to the TV with non-directional HDMI cables.
3) I THINK I changed the color in the Video1 setup data output setting to YBRC444 or something like that, as I saw that as an INPUT from the FIOS box using the OSD (button 7)
4) In the OSD menu I changed the output setting to be anamorphic stretch, which filled the screen for FIOS. Letterbox/pillarbox gave me the wide skinny image. Interestingly, when I used the SONY "wide" function button to fill the screen/zoom, sometimes I would lose the image completely. For a 16x9 set, I think I'm supposed to have it on Full, and not "normal" with HD, but I'll check on that as well.

Now I think I have stable output from FIOS, and DVD, BUT the D2 output from FIOS is still only viewable using the D2's 720 video output SETTING, but it shows an input of 1080i from the FIOS in the OSD.

The DVD is showing the D2 seeing 480 component input, but now I can get the D2 to output 1080 for the DVD, as shown on the OSD (which is what I would have thought it would do).

So the main mystery is this:

If the D2 Video output is HDMI and set at Auto or 1920/1080 (or anything beyond 720/480), I get a blank screen from the FIOS input (TV1) and the message about muting the HDMI video input, HDCP monitor needed. Occasionally it will flash a blue screen and I might see a 4:3 snow or full-screen snow briefly before it goes black. The Sony, incidentally reports the loss of signal immediately with a front panel light that goes out when the D2 decides to have a little fit.

So I am confused about why the D2 would not pass 1080 thru to the TV if the input signal is also 1080. Any other settings you'd suggest I try to hunt down? I can swap one more set of cables tomorrow if the FIOS>D2 cable is a problem (#2).

Thanks again.
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