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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1329

post #39841 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

I'll answer the simplest one first... GET the SVS EQ1 especially if you have dual subs. It handles sub bass way better than ARC does.

Now the "lack" of bass response you alluded to earlier, IMO is due to the low room gain you choose. Probably ARC must have suggested something higher and you reduced it to make your graphs look 'prettier' but not sound better than the ARC solution. Did you try the default solution that ARC gave you at 5K with the default room gain? Please post original and new targets.

The deep null at 70Hz is IMO probably due to a room mode. Since you said (and correct me if i'm wrong) that moving the sub is not an option, the you have 2 other options that will involve money. Invest in the SVS EQ-1 as i said before and, if you can swing it, get a 2nd sub(same type/tonality/manufacturer) as the first one and place it in the back of the room for example. The fix would involve running  the SVS to time or phase align the subs which would help eliminate that null and provide even bass response around the room.

dmusoke:

I finally got an AS-EQ1, it is coming tomorrow. I have a question. AS-EQ1 only allows RCA connections. I use XLR's to connect to my amp, and when I will be connecting the LF RCA out from D2v to AS- EQ1 during it's level calibration. Can I go back to using XLR's after that or I will have to switch using RCA's between D2v and my P5 amp..

I plan to run ARC after AS-EQ1. Just going through the manual, might have some more question. Generally, should I just follow the AS-EQ1 procedure in the manual, or any tweaks you want to suggest. Thanks.
Edited by paradigm25 - 1/22/13 at 6:20pm
post #39842 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.

There is no problem with ARC and dipoles.

ARC is detecting ROOM response issues, which is why measurements need to be made at different mic positions.

Personally, I don't recommend dipoles unless you have no choice but to place surround speakers quite close to seating, but that has nothing to do with ARC.
--Bob
post #39843 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post

You're correct. Oh well, I tried. Based on the negative report about ARC with dipoles, I am starting to look at other options. I don't know how Audyssey or the Krell system works, and it might not be as good for direct speakers, but it might be better with dipoles.

My previous speaker system were dipoles and line sources and AR worked fine. There was no collapse of the sound field.
Arc actually made the sound field extended past the edges of the speakers to the limit of the width of the room.
post #39844 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dodds View Post

I have dipoles (Linkwitz Orions) and I have recently been doing shootouts with dipole panel speakers (Maggie and Apogee). I have an AVM40 with ARC and previously used various Audysseu equipped units, although I haven't tried XT32.

Firstly, I've never noticed a soundstage collapse with ARC and my dipoles. I have a very large, quite lively room and this has never been an issue.

I used to use Anthem Music a lot, but it does something funny in the bass, adding some kind of boost. This is easily observable when running pink noise from an external source. DPL2 Music does it to a lesser extent and DTS Neo even less. I used to own a Lexicon DC2 and would overall say I prefer Logic 7.

Usually I listen in straight stereo, but I will occasionally use the surround modes for more expansive music. I wish my Anthem had a direct programmable music mode button on the remote, but it doesn't.

When I had an Audyssey XT equipped prepro, I could never get a good result with my dipoles. Aside from Audyssey (IMHO) using a curve that results in too much brightness, there was a consistent and measurable issue around 100Hz. I ended up switching to a Denon unit which allowed you to just use Audyssey for the sub and the surrounds.

ARC, on the other hand, has shown no such problems. I like the ability to use it over restricted frequencies and to have separate settings for music and movies. I'm less sure about some of its bass management decisions. They are certainly not textbook.

But I leave ARC on for music and movies, whereas I turned Audyssey off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

My previous speaker system were dipoles and line sources and AR worked fine. There was no collapse of the sound field.
Arc actually made the sound field extended past the edges of the speakers to the limit of the width of the room.

Many thanks, again, for the excellent responses. I hope you all realized I was reacting to one report. One person had problems with ARC and dipoles, and the rest of you did not. The one reported problem might be related to the characteristics of that room.

In any case, I have not found another processor with the same great reviews and features. Except maybe for the $30,000 Krell. smile.gif
post #39845 of 42717
i am using M&K tripoles , wicth is a hybrid - monopole on the front , dipole on the side. i never have problems with ARC in that regards.
post #39846 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

I'll answer the simplest one first... GET the SVS EQ1 especially if you have dual subs. It handles sub bass way better than ARC does.

Now the "lack" of bass response you alluded to earlier, IMO is due to the low room gain you choose. Probably ARC must have suggested something higher and you reduced it to make your graphs look 'prettier' but not sound better than the ARC solution. Did you try the default solution that ARC gave you at 5K with the default room gain? Please post original and new targets.

The deep null at 70Hz is IMO probably due to a room mode. Since you said (and correct me if i'm wrong) that moving the sub is not an option, the you have 2 other options that will involve money. Invest in the SVS EQ-1 as i said before and, if you can swing it, get a 2nd sub(same type/tonality/manufacturer) as the first one and place it in the back of the room for example. The fix would involve running  the SVS to time or phase align the subs which would help eliminate that null and provide even bass response around the room.

dmusoke:

I finally got an AS-EQ1, it is coming tomorrow. I have a question. AS-EQ1 only allows RCA connections. I use XLR's to connect to my amp, and when I will be connecting the LF RCA out from D2v to AS- EQ1 during it's level calibration. Can I go back to using XLR's after that or I will have to switch using RCA's between D2v and my P5 amp..

I plan to run ARC after AS-EQ1. Just going through the manual, might have some more question. Generally, should I just follow the AS-EQ1 procedure in the manual, or any tweaks you want to suggest. Thanks.

IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane

http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr. because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications

 

Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?

 

Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:

 

1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.

 

2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.

 

Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.

 

If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs. 

 

Hope this helps ...

post #39847 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emosewa09 View Post


Many thanks, again, for the excellent responses. I hope you all realized I was reacting to one report. One person had problems with ARC and dipoles, and the rest of you did not. The one reported problem might be related to the characteristics of that room.

In any case, I have not found another processor with the same great reviews and features. Except maybe for the $30,000 Krell. smile.gif

If you want an automatic solution whilst retaining some flexibility to tweak the sound to your taste, I don't think you can do better than one of the Anthems.

There are a few operational and ergonomic quirks, but this is true of most prepros. The ability to have complete flexibility over input assignment is a real benefit as you can have multiple setups with different bass management, ARC settings, and modes all from the one cable.

I have an older model and there have been some annoying HDMI issues, but one would hope the newer models have overcome this.

My only real beef, and this is only because I am a tweaker and measurer, is the slightly unusual way ARC handles bass management and LFE, but for most this will not be an issue.

If you are the sort who doesn't trust automatic solutions, who likes to tweak and who has measuring equipment, on the other hand, you may be happier with something that offers full manual parametric EQ.

Oh, and the other huge advantage the Anthems have other their competitors is this thread and the involvement of folk like Bob and Nick.
post #39848 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

i am using M&K tripoles , wicth is a hybrid - monopole on the front , dipole on the side. i never have problems with ARC in that regards.

Are you talking about surround speakers? We are talking about front speakers that are bipolar, something not as common.
post #39849 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Are you talking about surround speakers? We are talking about front speakers that are bipolar, something not as common.

sorry - my mistake :-)
post #39850 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane
http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr
. because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications

Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?

Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:

1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.

2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.

Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.

If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs. 

Hope this helps ...

to get the best result - use the One in . Two out setings in the SVS boks
post #39851 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.las View Post

to get the best result - use the One in . Two out setings in the SVS boks

That is if I have two subs, correct, for one sub Sub A in Sub A out.

Thanks.
post #39852 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

IMO, I'd get a true isolated RCA -> XLR -> RCA converter box, which uses transformers for isolation and passive gain control. I use this one from Rane
http://www.amazon.com/Rane-2-Channel-Matching-Converter-Connectors/dp/B0002D08GG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358922909&sr=8-2&keywords=rane+xlr
. because i developed a high pitched whine in my system when i connected the Subwoofer output of the D2v to the AS-EQ1. The Rane balance buddy eliminated it for me. I tried the usual suspects which involve disconnecting cable TV rf cables, trying different AC outlets, etc but all failed hence the Rain Buddy.  Cheaper ones exist i'm sure (e.g Jensen Audio Transformers) as they are used in many Pro-Audio applications

Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?

Anyways, the connection path using this simple connector would be:

1.    D2v Sub XLR_Out ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> AS-EQ1_RCA_Input.

2.    AS-EQ1_RCA_Output ---> XLR_to_RCA_Connector/Cable ---> Subwoofer.

Also, you'll need to connect Satellite in put of te EQ1 to the left/center input into the D2v during the calibration process. Remove it afterwards and connect original cables back into the D2v.

If you have dual, subs, then you'll need 4 of these converters/cables. The EQ1 excels at handling 2 subs, stereo or mono subs. 

Hope this helps ...

dmusoke:

This confuses me a little:

"Your system obviously is different than mine so i would try the standard XLR-RCA connector first and hopeful all will be well. And i presume you use your subwoofer has XLR inputs?"

You are saying to use standard XLR-RCA and see if that works then use that, and it means to me that connect all other speakers to amp with XLR and connect the sub with RCA, and if everything is fine than just leave it like that, but then you said you assume my sub has XLR inputs, yes it does, but I will not be connecting through XLR in this scheme.

And why I ask is because I read here that XLR outputs are +3dB hotter than RCA, and essentially I will be using two types of connections here, but again when I run ARC after AS-EQ1, it might trim the levels accordingly.

Bob: Can you please confirm this, I do not want to do this too many times, my wife is sick of whheeeeeeeeepp sound.

Basically I intend to connect sub to AS-EQ1 with RCA, and AS-EQ1 to sub with RCA, while connecting all other speaker outs to amp with XLR's. Also, during AS-EQ1 level match with LF, I will connect that also via RCA, because AS-EQ1 does not have XLR ins or outs.

Another option is to change everything to RCA (I don't want to do unless I have to).

Thanks.
Edited by paradigm25 - 1/23/13 at 3:53pm
post #39853 of 42717

Paradigm,

 

XLRs are +6db hotter than RCAs but no worries since most power amps compensate for this internally or have an external switch to select between RCA and XLR input usage. During calibration, the EQ1 will also adjust its own gain automatically until it reads the calibration SPL levels it desires.

 

*IMPORTANT*  Make sure you use an analog direct mode and NOT analog-DSP when calibrating with the EQ1 to eliminate any latent adjustments due to ARC..

 

Also know that in the end, ARC will compensate for the difference in levels it may find to reach its desired 75dB level so no need to worry about using rca versus xlr. The whole issue is moot by then.

post #39854 of 42717
I need some help.....

Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???

I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........

Peter
post #39855 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

I need some help.....

Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???

I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........

Peter

Keyspan USA-19hs
post #39856 of 42717
Thank you very much....

Peter
post #39857 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm25 View Post

That is if I have two subs, correct, for one sub Sub A in Sub A out.

Thanks.

yes
post #39858 of 42717
Many thanks to all of you for responding to my questions. I'll be buying a D2v, but it might not be until late February. No other preamp has its combination of sound quality, room correction, and versatility in terms of both analog and digital connections. I'll probably be back with more questions at that time, and greatly appreciate your help and support!

In the meantime, I'll read the FAQs and as much of the 1,300 pages of this thread as I can to get up to speed on ARC.

Since Anthem reads this site, I'll offer the suggestion that they need to expand the owner's manual. It's clear that the many nuances of the unit are not adequately covered in the manual. That is also clear from my conversations with Anthem tech support. For example, ARC is covered in only 4 pages. This thread is proof that ARC is not adequately covered in the manual.

The Lexicon MC-12HD, a product that is equally complex, has a manual twice as long. A thorough and well organized manual is preferable to having to read through a long thread, that by its very nature, is not organized by topic or subject.
post #39859 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

I need some help.....

Can anyone remember the product name of the usb to RS232 cable for updating???

I'm trying to find it in the thread and I'm having a heck of a time........

Peter

It may not apply to you, but I have found one more way of connecting the D2v to a laptop without serial port.

 

I connect my laptop to a docking station, and that has a serial port, and it works fine.

post #39860 of 42717
I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?

PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.
post #39861 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?

PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.

I would suggest you reconsider moving the amps to the rack in the rear of the room.
First, how would run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable ?
It is better to place the amps close to the speakers and run balanced cables to each amp and then a short good quality speaker cable from each amp to each the speaker.
It will sound better and reduce the cost of a long speaker cable.
And, placing the amps in your rack will add a considerable amount of heat to wherever the rack is located
post #39862 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

I'm in a bit of a dilemma I would like to put my new amps in my rack at the back of the room but the front speaker run is 50'. It has been suggested that I run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable, I know the balanced is a good idea as longer speaker cable runs lose some but how much we talking here, a db or two, or is it more crucial than that?

PS; Sent my D2v in for the 3D upgrade and service today and filled the gap with a 250.00 3D Pioneer. I have not had to reboot or change inputs once to fix a pink screen or blank picture compared to 3 times a night with the D2v. Hopefully the newer HDMI board and output will negate any further issues.

I would suggest you reconsider moving the amps to the rack in the rear of the room.
First, how would run balanced out to the speakers and then run a 5' speaker cable ?
It is better to place the amps close to the speakers and run balanced cables to each amp and then a short good quality speaker cable from each amp to each the speaker.
It will sound better and reduce the cost of a long speaker cable.
And, placing the amps in your rack will add a considerable amount of heat to wherever the rack is located

 

^^^ Best advice for your situation Stew!

post #39863 of 42717
^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.

The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.

50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.

If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.
--Bob
post #39864 of 42717
The thing is that I already have 10ga speaker wire running through my walls 50' to the speakers from the rack already and if I decided to go balanced out to the amps closer to the speakers I would have to run the balanced outside of the wall around a door 50', a little troublesome but still doable. These M1s do not throw much heat at all so that would not be a problem. So if I would not lose much like Bob states a fraction of a db, then off to the rack they go.............................. but if they would sound better like Stu says, then off to Blue Jeans I go to purchase 50' balanced. smile.gif Anyone want to break the tie? And thanks for the help.
Edited by studlygoorite - 1/25/13 at 5:42am
post #39865 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.

The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.

50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.

If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.
--Bob

Bob,

I am a little confused by this. I am in the middle of building my Theater, and I will be utilizing a rack that is mounted in the wall. For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker. From the discussions I have had with dealers and other folks they recommended running Balanced inter-connects to the amps, and then shorter speaker cable as this would maintain the quality of the signal. ( runs from rack about 75ft). For my surrounds and my center I will use a P5 mounted in the rack and run speaker wire from there to the respective speakers.

I am using Marshall Soundrunner speaker cable (10awg) for the speaker cable and just got my 500ft spool. The interconnects I will be using Mogami balanced (75ft)

What are your thoughts on this set up?

Gerard
post #39866 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ The line level connection to the amps is low voltage. The speaker connection FROM the amps is higher voltage.

The usual advice would be to keep the interconnect cables (to the amps) short and let the speaker cable runs be long.

50 feet is no problem for speaker cables as regards voltage. Unless the cables are REALLY cheap I'd doubt you'll see even a fraction of a dB of voltage drop.

If you want to get esoteric about it, you can consider exotic (expensive) speaker cable designs that minimize things like frequency related phase differential, but probably more important is getting sturdy enough cable that you don't have to worry about having to rerun it because it gets damaged. I'm not talking ship hawsers here. Think of the sort of sturdiness found in electrical wiring used inside the walls.
--Bob


Bob
I seldom have a conflict with any of your suggestions or ideas but in this case I would not suggest to anyone they use short interconnects and 50 ft speaker cables.
Unless it is a home theater and you do not really want to hear audiophile sound for your music.


Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

The thing is that I already have 10ga speaker wire running through my walls 50' to the speakers from the rack already and if I decided to go balanced out to the amps closer to the speakers I would have to run the balanced outside of the wall around a door 50', a little troublesome but still doable. These M1s do not throw much heat at all so that would not be a problem. So if I would not lose much like Bob states a fraction of a db, then off to the rack they go.............................. but if they would sound better like Stu says, then off to Blue Jeans I go to purchase 50' balanced. smile.gif Anyone want to break the tie? And thanks for the help.


studlygoorite
My suggestion would be to use 50 ft Mogami Gold Stage Mic Cable with Neutrik XLR Connectors for your interconnects and a high quality speaker cable of about 3 to 6 feet in length



Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post


Bob,

I am a little confused by this. I am in the middle of building my Theater, and I will be utilizing a rack that is mounted in the wall. For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker. From the discussions I have had with dealers and other folks they recommended running Balanced inter-connects to the amps, and then shorter speaker cable as this would maintain the quality of the signal. ( runs from rack about 75ft). For my surrounds and my center I will use a P5 mounted in the rack and run speaker wire from there to the respective speakers.

I am using Marshall Soundrunner speaker cable (10awg) for the speaker cable and just got my 500ft spool. The interconnects I will be using Mogami balanced (75ft)

What are your thoughts on this set up?

Gerard


Gerald you are absolutely on the right track for a good sounding system. . Follow the dealer recommendation of long interconnects and short high quality speaker cable
post #39867 of 42717
I have to agree with Bob's advice on short interconnects and longer speaker cables. This link will offer some technical support.
http://www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/audio-faqs/short-versus-long-cables

A summary paragraph ....
The graph shows that for medium cable lengths, the relationship of optimum speaker cable to interconnect length is (spkr) = 26+2.2(inter). This means that in order for both interconnects and speaker cables to be the optimum length, the speaker cable should be 2.2 times as long as the interconnect plus 26 feet. The obvious conclusion from this is that lengths shorter than 26 feet overall should be primarily speaker cable, with very short interconnects. If an overall length was 50 feet, then the optimum interconnect would be 7.5 feet and speaker cable would be 42.5 feet. The graph allows for more than 270 feet of speaker cable, but an abbreviated version of 150 feet is shown here for readability. Another conclusion that can be drawn from this is that it is more difficult and costly to manufacture a high-performance long interconnect than a high-performance long speaker cable.
post #39868 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post

For my front speakers my plan was to bi-amp each of my S8s with one P2 for each speaker.
Gerard

Can you explain how you plan to configure your amps/ front speakers? I'm curious about your bi amp plan when you say one amp per speaker.
post #39869 of 42717
I will be powering a pair of Signature 8 speakers with two Anthem P2 amps. To achieve this I run a y split XLR from by D2v to the two inputs of my amp. I then run one speaker line to the high and other to the low end connectors of my speakers.

I had this in my test system prior to construction and the results were amazing. It’s 650 watts per speaker, very low noise floor.
post #39870 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerard1meehan View Post

I will be powering a pair of Signature 8 speakers with two Anthem P2 amps. To achieve this I run a y split XLR from by D2v to the two inputs of my amp. I then run one speaker line to the high and other to the low end connectors of my speakers.

I had this in my test system prior to construction and the results were amazing. It’s 650 watts per speaker, very low noise floor.

This is how I am set up now but with 2 measly MCA 50s bi-amped across my front S8s and C5
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